I can offer you advise on any purchases you are about to make, what to look for, whats good/not good, and any problems you have that you need to troubleshoot.

My father has been in the business for decades and myself for many years, so this is our expertise. We are an award winning car audio speciality shop, and we take alot of pride in our work. Fiberglass is also something I/we specialize in, so shoot your questions!

Ive helped countless amount of SDers with their questions about purchases and what to look for when buying and installing these sorts of things, as it sometimes becomes overwhelming to any one that's not car savvy:D

Things that you might have trouble with that I can help include : In dash decks, in dash navigation systems, ipod and bluetooth integration,alarms, mobile video, amplifiers, speakers and components, signal processors, subwoofers, boxes, wiring, power caps, installation kits, and installation.


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Please remember to input the following descriptions when asking for advise about a future purchase

Vehicle- Year, make, model
Parts purchased/considering- model numbers of the parts
Goal- what are you looking for (that way i know the part your buying will fulfill your needs)

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For troubleshooting:

-Year/make/model of vehicle
-Problem (bass stop working, amp clipping, etc...)
-Weird noises or lights(ex. red light on amplifier, error message on stereo, etc...)

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As a employee at a shop that is an authorized dealer for many brands, im familiar with most if not all models out there. If you have a question about any single one, just ask!

Remember: Always buy from an AUTHORIZED dealer!

Frequently Asked Questions:

How do I know the seller is an Authorized Dealer?
All you have to do is visit the website of the product you are planning on purchasing and there will be a tab named Dealer Locator. All you do is click on that and enter your zip code and it will list all authorized dealers in a certain mileage radius.

How do I know what will fit my car?
Simply ask me what your car is and I can tell you what size speakers, radio, etc... will fit. Remember, the cool thing about car audio is customizing something that didn't come from the factory. We can make your car special and outfitted to fit your needs!

Im not looking to spend too much, can I have a decent sound system on a budget?
You sure can, ask me what your looking for and im sure I can whip up a system for you that will fit your budget. Good sound doesnt require you to spend good money ;)

*BayArea will not be held liable for any damage that results from improper installation or use of tools. I am only giving advice to help slickdealers get started on their car audio systems and to point them in the right direction.

List of all major car audio manufacturers and accessories websites.

ALPINE (http://www.alpine-usa.com/product)
ARC AUDIO (http://www.arcaudio.com/)
AUDIOVOX (http://audiovox.com/)
AUDISON (http://www.audison.eu/index_main.php?Section=Products/)
BOSTON ACOUSTICS (http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/car/)
BAZOOKA (http://www.bazooka.com/)
CLARION (http://www.clarion.com/us/en/top.html)
CROSSFIRE (http://www.crossfirecaraudio.com/)
DIAMOND AUDIO (http://www.diamondaudio.com/index.php/)
DEI (http://www.directed.com/)
DYNAMAT (http://www.dynamat.com/)
DYNAUDIO (http://www.dynaudio.com/int/index.php)
FOCAL (http://www.focal-america.com/)
HERTZ (http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/default_en.htm)
HIFONICS (http://www.hifonics.com/)
IMAGE DYNAMICS (http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/)
INFINITY (http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/default.aspx)
JBL (http://www.jbl.com/car/default.aspx?HideMenu=N&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA/)
JL AUDIO (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/index.php)
JVC (http://mobile.jvc.com/index.jsp)
KENWOOD (http://kenwood.com/)
KICKER (http://www.kicker.com/Car_Audio)
KNU KONCEPTZ (http://www.knukonceptz.com/)
MB QUART (http://www.mbquartusa.com/)
McIntosh (http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/)
MOREL (http://www.morelhifi.com/)
MTX (http://www.mtx.com/index2.cfm/)
NAKAMICHI (http://nakamichi.com/)
PAC (http://www.pac-audio.com/)
PARROT (http://www.parrot.com/usa/)
PHOENIX GOLD (http://phoenixgold.com/)
PIONEER (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA)
POLK AUDIO (http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/)
RAINBOW (http://www.rainbowcaraudio.com/)
RE AUDIO (http://www.reaudio.com/)
ROCKFORD FOSGATE (http://rockfordfosgate.com/home/)
SCOSCHE (http://www.scosche.com/car-audio)
SECOND SKIN (http://www.secondskinaudio.com/)
SONY (http://www.xplodsony.com/?ref=http%3A//www.sony.com/index.php)
STINGER (http://www.stingerelectronics.com//)
ZAPCO (http://www.zapco.com/)

? i had a alright system, i had 2 12's pioneer tsw120 svc 4 ohms 400 rms each the 2007 versions and a mono block mtx amp tc8001 800 rms at 2 ohms in a sealed box 1.25 internal volume each chamber hooked up in a stereo installations place, the system was in my 97'' dodge ram 1500 truck extended cab,,it was running off my factory alternator and i had a alpine head unit i got from circuit city CDE-9872........... for the past months im sure its not normal but my subs have been vibrating constantly when i have the volume fully turned down or when the volume is barely up like during commercials when talking,,,,its like the sound of a 67 camaro when you turn the ignition on and it idle's- warms up the engine but more bassey>>>>>so if you know what that is let me know thanx

Hey BayArea -

Question about MB Quart PAB 5400 amp (5-Channel):

Can I run mixed ohm loads?

Example:
- Run speakers at 4 Ohmns
- Run subwoofer at 2 Ohmns

Amp specifications are:
4 x 55 W RMS + 1 x 200 W @ 4 Ohms
4 x 80 W RMS + 1 x 300 W @ 2 Ohms

? i had a alright system, i had 2 12's pioneer tsw120 svc 4 ohms 400 rms each the 2007 versions and a mono block mtx amp tc8001 800 rms at 2 ohms in a sealed box 1.25 internal volume each chamber hooked up in a stereo installations place, the system was in my 97'' dodge ram 1500 truck extended cab,,it was running off my factory alternator and i had a alpine head unit i got from circuit city CDE-9872........... for the past months im sure its not normal but my subs have been vibrating constantly when i have the volume fully turned down or when the volume is barely up like during commercials when talking,,,,its like the sound of a 67 camaro when you turn the ignition on and it idle's- warms up the engine but more bassey>>>>>so if you know what that is let me know thanx

It might be the RCA's. In my experience, people that use cheap RCA's have alot of problems and that sounds like one of them.

When you turn off your system or put the volume on 0, does it still vibrate on subwoofers?
let me know

Hey BayArea -

Question about MB Quart PAB 5400 amp (5-Channel):

Can I run mixed ohm loads?

Example:
- Run speakers at 4 Ohmns
- Run subwoofer at 2 Ohmns

Amp specifications are:
4 x 55 W RMS + 1 x 200 W @ 4 Ohms
4 x 80 W RMS + 1 x 300 W @ 2 Ohms

What kind of sub are you using?

It might be the RCA's. In my experience, people that use cheap RCA's have alot of problems and that sounds like one of them.

When you turn off your system or put the volume on 0, does it still vibrate on subwoofers?
let me know



What kind of sub are you using?


Kicker square 8" L7 dual 4-ohmn voice coils, wired in parallel for 2-Ohmns end load

Thanks man!!! :worship:

Kicker square 8" L7 dual 4-ohmn voice coils, wired in parallel for 2-Ohmns end load

Thanks man!!! :worship:

Ok what I would do is run the L7 in parallel which should drop it to 2 ohms. Run it directly to the amps 1 channel for sub and run the speaker wires to the back of the deck to get the 4ohm load.

Now,if you notice that the amp shuts off or goes on protection, you might be out of luck and have to run it 8 ohms. This should be a fast test as its very easy to take the sub out and rewire it in series if it doesnt run 2 ohm stable. Let me know what happened. When i get to the shop tomorrow ill double check on that amp for you.

Ok what I would do is run the L7 in parallel which should drop it to 2 ohms. Run it directly to the amps 1 channel for sub and run the speaker wires to the back of the deck to get the 4ohm load.

Now,if you notice that the amp shuts off or goes on protection, you might be out of luck and have to run it 8 ohms. This should be a fast test as its very easy to take the sub out and rewire it in series if it doesnt run 2 ohm stable. Let me know what happened. When i get to the shop tomorrow ill double check on that amp for you.


Thanks Bay! I wasn't sure if the amp would cooperate with 2 Ohms sub, 4 ohms speaker connections.

Thanks Bay! I wasn't sure if the amp would cooperate with 2 Ohms sub, 4 ohms speaker connections.

Thats why I think 5 channel amps are the weiredest yet coolest amps! I have had experiences with running them at multiple ohms, and some where i have to run them at a certain ohmage all the way around.

But like i said just try running the sub at 2 ohms (im sure thats what you want) and run the speakers at 4 ohms. If it doesnt work, just run the sub in series..let me know what happens.

Hi, I have a 2002 Honda Accord and about $250 to spend on an alarm.
I want a very good alarm system, definitely needs keyless entry and remote start would be nice too. If not how much extra would it cost for the added remote start?

I was thinking about either of these two, what do u think?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6354777&type=product&id=1076628577516

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Python-460HP-Security-Keyless-Entry-System-Python-460HP/sem/rpsm/oid/119440/catOid/-13097/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

Hi, I have a 2002 Honda Accord and about $250 to spend on an alarm.
I want a very good alarm system, definitely needs keyless entry and remote start would be nice too. If not how much extra would it cost for the added remote start?

I was thinking about either of these two, what do u think?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6354777&type=product&id=1076628577516

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Python-460HP-Security-Keyless-Entry-System-Python-460HP/sem/rpsm/oid/119440/catOid/-13097/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

Hey,
Those 2 alarms are great basic alarms. Those will give you the basic keyless entry, flashing lights, door trigger, LED light, shock sensor. They will NOT give you remote start.
As far as price goes, thats way too much. For the Viper, you should be spending between $185-200 max. On the Python, you should be looking at about $160-175 max. I would check around for a local car audio specialist store to be able to get that pricing. Circuit City and Best Buy charge way too much.

If you want to do remote start, you will need an extra module to bypass the computer on board. It will cost you about $85 for a module plus an alarm system that has a remote start brain. A remote start system installed will cost you at least $350+ depending on the alarm.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Hey,
Those 2 alarms are great basic alarms. Those will give you the basic keyless entry, flashing lights, door trigger, LED light, shock sensor. They will NOT give you remote start.
As far as price goes, thats way too much. For the Viper, you should be spending between $185-200 max. On the Python, you should be looking at about $160-175 max. I would check around for a local car audio specialist store to be able to get that pricing. Circuit City and Best Buy charge way too much.

If you want to do remote start, you will need an extra module to bypass the computer on board. It will cost you about $85 for a module plus an alarm system that has a remote start brain. A remote start system installed will cost you at least $350+ depending on the alarm.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

I agree. Further, BB and CC have screwed up so many cars when installing alarms. It seems like more often than not, the installers have no formal training. I've gone to Tweeter for 3 Viper remote start system installs over the years and have been very happy. The one time there was a significant issue, they jumped on it and made it right, and very quickly.

I used to do some crazy systems in my cars, and enjoyed doing all the work myself. The one I liked best was back in 1997. It was a JVC headunit with a 6-disc changer in the trunk; I had a US Amps 50x2 that was quite happy down to 1 ohm, so I ran my front Kicker components and my rear Pioneer coaxs in parallel from the 2 channels, and also had a Kicker Solobaric 10" 4ohm sub running from the bridged channel. I estimated about 50 watts at all 4 corners, then about 250 watts to the sub. Each had passive inline coil crossovers after the amp for frequency filtering. Lastly, I had a 1 farad cap so I didn't choke the life out of my little car's electrical system. Damn, I loved that thing.

BayAreaaa, it's nice of you to offer your expertise on this. Can you offer deals on equipment too? :woot:

I agree. Further, BB and CC have screwed up so many cars when installing alarms. It seems like more often than not, the installers have no formal training. I've gone to Tweeter for 3 Viper remote start system installs over the years and have been very happy. The one time there was a significant issue, they jumped on it and made it right, and very quickly.

BayAreaaa, it's nice of you to offer your expertise on this. Can you offer deals on equipment too? :woot:

I never suggest places like CC, Best buy, Frys for car audio products or installation. I feel this field requires more than just schooling, but experience. Those big box stores hire just about anyone and have a book of certain cars they dont do because of there difficulty. Many times we have done jobs at the store and were able to complete it from our years of experience and studying. We are serious professionals (most specialist shops are), but the kids you find working at the big box stores are there to get a paycheck and leave.

I can offer you good prices from my shop alone, but thats about it. Most online retailers of car audio are NOT authorized dealers. As i stated in original post, always buy from an authorized dealer (to protect your warranty).

If you ever find something you want, send me the link or let me know what it is and ill let you know whats a good price or not.

I've done my own alarm and stereo installs , but so far nothing i've installed, except some after market HID lights, work properly...my poor 2k6 suzuki reno :(.

At any rate, I'd like to have all the components repaired and probably replace the head unit i've installed (the alarm works *ok*).

My stereo install worked for about 2 months then the left speakers started going out. Went back in and rewired everything via crimping, but its still intermittent. Did I mention the LCD went out on me ?

Wired up an infiniti 1300a amp which sounded GREAT for a grand total of about 3 weeks, but I had it mounted in the middle section behind the center console (I usually don't have passengers back there, and the amp had nice blue lights on it), then my girlfriend knocked a can of cream soda onto it...sigh.

First alarm install went not so well. Went with an off brand unit that worked for a bit, but the actuator never fired. Went back in to rewire and shorted the unit out by accidentially touching the ground to power. Lesson learned. On the same install I tried to do the remote start which DID work (and impressed the heck out of friends/family/onlookers), however I didn't crimp and tried to cut the wire to make my own wiring, but something must have gotten crossed as the ignition fuse blew once (but I knew where to look).

Went with an autopage (forgot the model) which works ok now. Only problem is is that my drivers side door didn't come from the factory with an actuator (hence my alarm install), and my education on physics hasn't allowed me to position the actuator to reliably fire the lock up, so I must manually unlock but I can lock via remote (silly I know).

Parts broken..lol...lets see...
Door panels (back on)
door trim hinges (fixed for the most part)
various fuses, including ignition fuse (fixed)

But hey, for a first timer....my car still works! I freaked out about 100 times (specially with the blown fuses) but I know the ins and outs of my car like a champ now.

But here I am, beaten and bruised. I admit, I do not need to be doing this type of work. IT feels great to get my hands dirty, and i'm willing to learn, but for all the money and time i've spent for nothing to work, I guess I should just call it done. I would consider going to the installer institute down in (florida?) but the tuition is outragious, on top of my fees here at the university of washington ~.~.

So, how do you guys find good installers? I've asked my local dealer who they recommend, but they couldn't tell me anyone (I think they are surprised someone asked).

I've seen a few local shops, but i've heard a few horror stories for just about every place.

I know most of the stuff i've done in my car doesn't work to a degree, but I have basic electrical knowledge and have appropriately wired all signal / low voltage wires, ground and power wires in a safe, reliable manner (as far as I can tell).

Some of the extreme hack jobs i've seen are down right dangerous, and not knowing how they did it / being able to fix it myself worries me.

Should I stroll into a shop and ask to see their work? What are some local resources I can go to to find a reliable installer?

I'm in Tacoma/Seattle, Wa BTW.

Thanks for any help.

Hi, thx for the reply. It's nice to see the SD community being so diverse and being able to help each other on stuff besides deals. If you ever need any computer advice, don't be afraid to ask.

So why would you pay more for the viper than the python? From the websites of both, I thought they pretty much had all the same features. Since I don't really know too much about cars, what brand of alarms would you recommend? Like I said, security and keyless entry is something I definitely want. But it would be nice if I could get a remote start too but it's not really needed. If it's too much I'd rather spend the money on sub+amp instead of the remote start.

Oh and since my car's a 2002 Accord, it has a chip in the key. Does that mean I'll have to lose a key or buy a new one for the security system to work? Thanks

I've done my own alarm and stereo installs , but so far nothing i've installed, except some after market HID lights, work properly...my poor 2k6 suzuki reno :(.

At any rate, I'd like to have all the components repaired and probably replace the head unit i've installed (the alarm works *ok*).

My stereo install worked for about 2 months then the left speakers started going out. Went back in and rewired everything via crimping, but its still intermittent. Did I mention the LCD went out on me ?

Wired up an infiniti 1300a amp which sounded GREAT for a grand total of about 3 weeks, but I had it mounted in the middle section behind the center console (I usually don't have passengers back there, and the amp had nice blue lights on it), then my girlfriend knocked a can of cream soda onto it...sigh.

First alarm install went not so well. Went with an off brand unit that worked for a bit, but the actuator never fired. Went back in to rewire and shorted the unit out by accidentially touching the ground to power. Lesson learned. On the same install I tried to do the remote start which DID work (and impressed the heck out of friends/family/onlookers), however I didn't crimp and tried to cut the wire to make my own wiring, but something must have gotten crossed as the ignition fuse blew once (but I knew where to look).

Went with an autopage (forgot the model) which works ok now. Only problem is is that my drivers side door didn't come from the factory with an actuator (hence my alarm install), and my education on physics hasn't allowed me to position the actuator to reliably fire the lock up, so I must manually unlock but I can lock via remote (silly I know).

Parts broken..lol...lets see...
Door panels (back on)
door trim hinges (fixed for the most part)
various fuses, including ignition fuse (fixed)

But hey, for a first timer....my car still works! I freaked out about 100 times (specially with the blown fuses) but I know the ins and outs of my car like a champ now.

But here I am, beaten and bruised. I admit, I do not need to be doing this type of work. IT feels great to get my hands dirty, and i'm willing to learn, but for all the money and time i've spent for nothing to work, I guess I should just call it done. I would consider going to the installer institute down in (florida?) but the tuition is outragious, on top of my fees here at the university of washington ~.~.

So, how do you guys find good installers? I've asked my local dealer who they recommend, but they couldn't tell me anyone (I think they are surprised someone asked).

I've seen a few local shops, but i've heard a few horror stories for just about every place.

I know most of the stuff i've done in my car doesn't work to a degree, but I have basic electrical knowledge and have appropriately wired all signal / low voltage wires, ground and power wires in a safe, reliable manner (as far as I can tell).

Some of the extreme hack jobs i've seen are down right dangerous, and not knowing how they did it / being able to fix it myself worries me.

Should I stroll into a shop and ask to see their work? What are some local resources I can go to to find a reliable installer?

I'm in Tacoma/Seattle, Wa BTW.

Thanks for any help.

Hey,

The work that you had trouble with are pretty basic installations, except for the alarm system(i always suggest professional installation for alarms). What I would do is go around and look at different shops, look at their showroom to see if its clean or not. Talk to the sales people and see how they act. You can usually tell the difference between somone that wants to help and that is honest or somone that just wants to take your money. Im not from the Washington area, but im sure theres good reputable shops.

Other than personal recommendations, their isint too many ways to find out about people that do good work.

Hi, thx for the reply. It's nice to see the SD community being so diverse and being able to help each other on stuff besides deals. If you ever need any computer advice, don't be afraid to ask.

So why would you pay more for the viper than the python? From the websites of both, I thought they pretty much had all the same features. Since I don't really know too much about cars, what brand of alarms would you recommend? Like I said, security and keyless entry is something I definitely want. But it would be nice if I could get a remote start too but it's not really needed. If it's too much I'd rather spend the money on sub+amp instead of the remote start.

Oh and since my car's a 2002 Accord, it has a chip in the key. Does that mean I'll have to lose a key or buy a new one for the security system to work? Thanks

Hey,
The difference is that the Viper is a better known and better make of an alarm. Honestly, the same options of a Viper cost me more than a python (wholesale cost). The Viper can sell more just because of the name most of the time.

Depending on which module you go with, you might lose 1 of your keys. I have some modules at the shop that can remote start your car without you having to give up your extra key and some modules which require to use your spare key.

Note*** The spare key could only be lost if your doing remote start. Security system/keyless entry do NOT require an extra key.

Hey,

The work that you had trouble with are pretty basic installations, except for the alarm system(i always suggest professional installation for alarms). What I would do is go around and look at different shops, look at their showroom to see if its clean or not. Talk to the sales people and see how they act. You can usually tell the difference between somone that wants to help and that is honest or somone that just wants to take your money. Im not from the Washington area, but im sure theres good reputable shops.

Other than personal recommendations, their isint too many ways to find out about people that do good work.

Ahh..

Makes sense.

Thanks (+1 rep) :D

just curious i know about 5 years ago i had a alpine (i think nva751a) nav system that i managed to somehow hook up to my indash non alpine monitor via just the rca video input on the screen. I believe alpine either had a module or this particulare gps allowed me to do it. I am curious if that sounds right. I am trying to duplicate the same install. I still have my monitor and in the interste of now having to buyy all new equipment does anyone out there or you bayarea know of a gps that i can install whether dvd or SD card related gps where i can have it hook up to my current indash screen via a video rca input?

yeah it still vibrates when the volume is at 0

just curious i know about 5 years ago i had a alpine (i think nva751a) nav system that i managed to somehow hook up to my indash non alpine monitor via just the rca video input on the screen. I believe alpine either had a module or this particulare gps allowed me to do it. I am curious if that sounds right. I am trying to duplicate the same install. I still have my monitor and in the interste of now having to buyy all new equipment does anyone out there or you bayarea know of a gps that i can install whether dvd or SD card related gps where i can have it hook up to my current indash screen via a video rca input?

Hey,
I know that Kenwood and Alpine have an add on navgation system that you hook up to a monitor, BUT the monitor must be of the same brand and be able to hook up to that navigation via provided cables.

What you did 5 years ago i believe is not possible anymore.

yeah it still vibrates when the volume is at 0

Hey,
If you have a spare amplifier around, take that and hook it up. Talked to another one of my techs and were thinking its most likely the amplifier.

I have a 1996 BMW 328i 4-door with a factory HK casette/radio and a CD changer in the trunk.

I think one of the speakers is blown. I'd like to replace the head unit and 2 or four of the speakers.

I'm not interested in an asskicking rig, just good quality sound. And I don't want tacky, flashing lights.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

I have a 1996 BMW 328i 4-door with a factory HK casette/radio and a CD changer in the trunk.

I think one of the speakers is blown. I'd like to replace the head unit and 2 or four of the speakers.

I'm not interested in an asskicking rig, just good quality sound. And I don't want tacky, flashing lights.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Hey,
For the headunit, you have a single din so that should be quite easy. You can go many different routes to this. Can you tell me how much you want to spend so I can give you the options and what kind of systems you can do for your budget.

I've been shopping around for the past week and honestly I'm confused and annoyed. So I get prices quotes from Quality AutoSound and Ultimate Electronics that are about $220 for Viper Alarm system w/ keyless entry INSTALLED or $220 Clifford Alarm system w/ keyless entry INSTALLED but when I get everything to come up, it's always $280-$350.

Can you recommend me a brand/ alarm system and a good place to get it installed?
I want a Security System that has:
Keyless Entry* (must have no matter what)
*All the standard things that comes with alarms systems
*Backup battery (was definitely recommended right?)
*Window break sensor (is this needed?)
*Hood/ Trunk Sensor (is this needed?)
remote start is would be nice but not needed
*are there any other sensor's you recommend?

Should I buy a system on eBay and have someone install it for me? I'm pretty annoyed right now and for peace of mind protection while knowing I'm getting a good price/deal I will pay up to $450 but the cheaper the better. Please help me

hi, so i ended up buying 15"kicker cvr's and kickerzx750.1..what is the good installation amp kit..

cheap and best.( should i go with 8ga. 4 ga. 2ga. or 0ga.)


thanks

I've been shopping around for the past week and honestly I'm confused and annoyed. So I get prices quotes from Quality AutoSound and Ultimate Electronics that are about $220 for Viper Alarm system w/ keyless entry INSTALLED or $220 Clifford Alarm system w/ keyless entry INSTALLED but when I get everything to come up, it's always $280-$350.

Can you recommend me a brand/ alarm system and a good place to get it installed?
I want a Security System that has:
Keyless Entry* (must have no matter what)
*All the standard things that comes with alarms systems
*Backup battery (was definitely recommended right?)
*Window break sensor (is this needed?)
*Hood/ Trunk Sensor (is this needed?)
remote start is would be nice but not needed
*are there any other sensor's you recommend?

Should I buy a system on eBay and have someone install it for me? I'm pretty annoyed right now and for peace of mind protection while knowing I'm getting a good price/deal I will pay up to $450 but the cheaper the better. Please help me

Hey,
-The backup battery is good if somone cuts your power to the alarm because then you have something to give power to your alarm as a backup. I personally dont have it on my car. Unless your car is real valuable and will attract the professionals, I wouldnt get it.
-Window break sensor is unneeded. Almost any hit to a window will set off the alarm via shock sensor. The only way a window break sensor would come in handy is for those specific tools that professional thieves have. Like I said before, is your car really going to attract those kind of theives? If your worried about gangsters and thugs or the local kids, I wouldnt get it.
-The hood sensor is a good option to get, but it shouldnt cost that much. I would go for that and not the trunk.

-Like I said before, remote start will cost you at least $350 alone because of the extra module and labor time needed. I would just forget about the remote start right now and go for the basic alarm with a couple of the extra sensors such as the hood pin and maybe the backup battery if it works with your budget.

If their offering you $280 for the alarm plus a couple of those sensors, its not a bad deal at all.

hi, so i ended up buying 15"kicker cvr's and kickerzx750.1..what is the good installation amp kit..

cheap and best.( should i go with 8ga. 4 ga. 2ga. or 0ga.)


thanks

Depending on how many amps you have. I would go with at least a 4 gauge power and ground amp kit. 2 Gauge would probobly fit the most. 0 Gauge is way overkill.

Depending on how many amps you have. I would go with at least a 4 gauge power and ground amp kit. 2 Gauge would probobly fit the most. 0 Gauge is way overkill.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/Search.do?c=1&context=outlet&searchType=user&keyword=zx750.1&searchSection=Outlet&go.x=0&go.y=0 its this amp

http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/Search.do?c=1&context=outlet&searchType=user&keyword=zx750.1&searchSection=Outlet&go.x=0&go.y=0 its this amp

Hey,
Ok so you only have 1 amplifier in your car? Thats what im guessing by that link.
4 gauge will work. 2 gauge would be the best. Dont go 0 gauge.

I do reccomend that you get a name brand wiring kit. Go with either a JL audio, Rockford Fosgate, or Kicker wiring kit. Monster makes good wiring kits also but their a little overpriced.

At our shop we mainly use Rockford Fosgate wiring kit. Their RCA's are one of the best I have ever used and they use real AWG for their wires.

This is one of our best selling wiring kits and 1 of my favorite and most recommended:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=5&series_id=41&family_id=86&item_id=108364&locale=en_US&p_status=

Hey,
Ok so you only have 1 amplifier in your car? Thats what im guessing by that link.
4 gauge will work. 2 gauge would be the best. Dont go 0 gauge.

I do reccomend that you get a name brand wiring kit. Go with either a JL audio, Rockford Fosgate, or Kicker wiring kit. Monster makes good wiring kits also but their a little overpriced.

At our shop we mainly use Rockford Fosgate wiring kit. Their RCA's are one of the best I have ever used and they use real AWG for their wires.

This is one of our best selling wiring kits and 1 of my favorite and most recommended:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=5&series_id=41&family_id=86&item_id=108364&locale=en_US&p_status=

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Tsunami-Multi-Amplifier-Power-Kit-AMP48-CAP/sem/rpsm/context/outlet/oid/95661/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Tsunami-Multi-Amplifier-Power-Kit-AMP48-CAP/sem/rpsm/context/outlet/oid/95661/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

Hey,
Capacitors give you 14.4 volts to your amp. It also stores power so that when your amp needs it the most, it takes it from your cap instead of directly from the battery. It extends the life of your car battery and alternator as the amp isint directly taking power from them. I highly recommend it when using a big amplifier or multi amplifiers.

On a side note, im not too sure about Tsunami wires and how great they are. Like I said, I would go with JL audio, Rockford Fosgate, or Kicker wires.

Hey,
Capacitors give you 14.4 volts to your amp. It also stores power so that when your amp needs it the most, it takes it from your cap instead of directly from the battery. It extends the life of your car battery and alternator as the amp isint directly taking power from them. I highly recommend it when using a big amplifier or multi amplifiers.

On a side note, im not too sure about Tsunami wires and how great they are. Like I said, I would go with JL audio, Rockford Fosgate, or Kicker wires.

so you do recommend capacitor for that particular kicker amp right. and yes i am just planning for one kicker amp.

so you do recommend capacitor for that particular kicker amp right. and yes i am just planning for one kicker amp.

Hey,
Yes I do recommend a capactior as you will be running at least 750 watts rms. That should help your battery, alternator, and keep you from having your lights dim at night.

Hey,
Yes I do recommend a capactior as you will be running at least 750 watts rms. That should help your battery, alternator, and keep you from having your lights dim at night.

i can't find any 2 guage amp kit. i guess i will just go with 4 guage..

is there a big difference between 2 and 4 or just a little bit.if i get 4 will it affect my car.

i can't find any 2 guage amp kit. i guess i will just go with 4 guage..

is there a big difference between 2 and 4 or just a little bit.if i get 4 will it affect my car.

Hey,
If I were you, I would just stick to the 4gauge. Once you start getting to the 2 gauge kits, it starts to get pricey and not necessary. 4 gauge will do the job. But please remember to stick to a name brand kit! Do not go generic!!!! Theres a night and day difference between generic brands and name brands.

As long as you rep somone else first, you can then rep me again.:P

Hey,
-The backup battery is good if somone cuts your power to the alarm because then you have something to give power to your alarm as a backup. I personally dont have it on my car. Unless your car is real valuable and will attract the professionals, I wouldnt get it.
-Window break sensor is unneeded. Almost any hit to a window will set off the alarm via shock sensor. The only way a window break sensor would come in handy is for those specific tools that professional thieves have. Like I said before, is your car really going to attract those kind of theives? If your worried about gangsters and thugs or the local kids, I wouldnt get it.
-The hood sensor is a good option to get, but it shouldnt cost that much. I would go for that and not the trunk.

-Like I said before, remote start will cost you at least $350 alone because of the extra module and labor time needed. I would just forget about the remote start right now and go for the basic alarm with a couple of the extra sensors such as the hood pin and maybe the backup battery if it works with your budget.

If their offering you $280 for the alarm plus a couple of those sensors, its not a bad deal at all.

Well actually, $270-290 was the price of just the $200 basic clifford alarm. They said there's a $40 fee to hook up keyless entry and tax brings it up to about $270. The basic vipers with security and keyless rang up to about $320. You said you would pay max $230 for those alarms.

I really don't know where to go to find a good price. Is there a national chain that has a good deal on these alarms?

and one option I've been considering is just to get those $220 security/keyless/remote start/ 2way/ LCD alarm w/ glass sensor, backup battery, misc other stuff on ebay and just trying to find someone to install it for me. It says it uses a FM radio for the remote though. I'm afraid someone might be able to copy that frequency and steal my car then. Plus I'm not sure how much it will cost to install. What do you think of these systems?

here's the system:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2-WAY-LCD-PAGER-REMOTE-START-CAR-ALARM-PACKAGE-DEAL_W0QQitemZ280255212345QQihZ018QQcategoryZ94832QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Well actually, $270-290 was the price of just the $200 basic clifford alarm. They said there's a $40 fee to hook up keyless entry and tax brings it up to about $270. The basic vipers with security and keyless rang up to about $320. You said you would pay max $230 for those alarms.

I really don't know where to go to find a good price. Is there a national chain that has a good deal on these alarms?

and one option I've been considering is just to get those $220 security/keyless/remote start/ 2way/ LCD alarm w/ glass sensor, backup battery, misc other stuff on ebay and just trying to find someone to install it for me. It says it uses a FM radio for the remote though. I'm afraid someone might be able to copy that frequency and steal my car then. Plus I'm not sure how much it will cost to install. What do you think of these systems?

here's the system:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2-WAY-LCD-PAGER-REMOTE-START-CAR-ALARM-PACKAGE-DEAL_W0QQitemZ280255212345QQihZ018QQcategoryZ94832QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hey,
Pricing like anything else, depends on location. If you have looked around and thats the average price their giving you, than thats what you should expect to pay. Remember some parts of the countrys living expenses is more so pricing on things is a little higher.

There is no national chain for these kinda things other than those rip off bad installaion big box stores (frys,cc,bb)

That alarm you showed me on ebay is no good. Its a cheap knockoff brand. I see that kind of stuff all the time, and not only does it feel cheap but they usually dont work as described or have problems shortly after installation. Professional shops like mine and many other wouldnt even touch that alarm if you brought it in for them to install. Please stay away from a product like that.

A thing about buying something from somewhere else, then going to get it professionally installed usually will end up costing YOU more. Anytime somone brings me something to install for them that they didnt buy from me, the price is usually almost double. Most stores are like that. If you want my professional installation, you buy from me, otherwise the price will be much more. When buying from the store, they usually give you a discount on the installation or might even do it for free. They also back their work as they are selling you THEIR product, so they will make sure it works and works properly!

As long as you looked around and the prices are pretty much the same, just go with the store that had the best customer service, nicest salesman, and the people that helped you the most and spent the most time with you.

which amp kit do you think will be the best.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350087789328

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=120292262072

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350087982933

or
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-Fosgate-4-guage-dual-Amp-kit-with-capacitor_W0QQitemZ230281202579QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-Fosgate-2-gauge-Amp-kit-Rockford-Capacitor_W0QQitemZ230280240353QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230280240353&_trkparms=72%3A1076%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
with the capacitor

which amp kit do you think will be the best.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350087789328

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=120292262072

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350087982933

or
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-Fosgate-4-guage-dual-Amp-kit-with-capacitor_W0QQitemZ230281202579QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-Fosgate-2-gauge-Amp-kit-Rockford-Capacitor_W0QQitemZ230280240353QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230280240353&_trkparms=72%3A1076%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
with the capacitor

Hey,
I would go with the 4th or 5th link. But note that the 5th link you need to buy an RCA since it doesnt come with one.

Note** Those are old models. Their not the current 2008 model wiring kit. It does the same job as the 2008 models, their just manufactured at least 1 year ago.

Hey,
I would go with the 4th or 5th link. But note that the 5th link you need to buy an RCA since it doesnt come with one.

Note** Those are old models. Their not the current 2008 model wiring kit. It does the same job as the 2008 models, their just manufactured at least 1 year ago.

is 1 farad good or 2 farad..what does 1 or 2 farad mean.


sorry for toooooooooooooooooooo many questions.

is this good capacitor http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-Impulse-1-25-Digital-Blue-LED-Cap-Capacitor-New_W0QQitemZ360039761530QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

is this good http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?afepn=5335869999&campid=5335869999&PID=1225267&ViewItem=&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&item=120292262072 + above capacitor

is 1 farad good or 2 farad..what does 1 or 2 farad mean.


sorry for toooooooooooooooooooo many questions.

is this good capacitor http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-Impulse-1-25-Digital-Blue-LED-Cap-Capacitor-New_W0QQitemZ360039761530QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

is this good http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?afepn=5335869999&campid=5335869999&PID=1225267&ViewItem=&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&item=120292262072 + above capacitor

Hey,
The more farads it is, the more power it can store. For your situation, 1 farad is plenty.
I would Not go with that capacitor, i would stick with a name brand like Rockford Fosgate.

That amplifier kit is a good kit. I would go for it esp at that price. Although i never recommend ebay as i have about a million horror storys about people and their ebays experiences.

Hey,
The more farads it is, the more power it can store. For your situation, 1 farad is plenty.
I would Not go with that capacitor, i would stick with a name brand like Rockford Fosgate.

That amplifier kit is a good kit. I would go for it esp at that price. Although i never recommend ebay as i have about a million horror storys about people and their ebays experiences.

is from kicker..if u say its not good than i'll just look around for more

is from kicker..if u say its not good than i'll just look around for more

any opinion for Power Acoustik

is from kicker..if u say its not good than i'll just look around for more

Hey,
No its not from Kicker. The ebay seller is lying in his auction (thus why i always advise to stay away from ebay).

any opinion for Power Acoustik

Hey,
Power Acoustik is an ok middle of the road brand. Its not high end like Rockford,Kicker etc.. but its not pure garbage. Id stick with the Rockford Cap.

what do you think of this alarm from autozone?
http://www.autozone.com/sku,267770/store,833/shopping/accessoryProductDetail2.htm

or how about alarms from this website, are they eBay-like ripoff crap quality too?
http://www.ecarsecurity.com/Default.asp?Redirected=Y

then maybe I can just find someone and hire them to install it for me. or just hire circuitcity for like $200-$15 plus tax. How is that plan?

what do you think of this alarm from autozone?
http://www.autozone.com/sku,267770/store,833/shopping/accessoryProductDetail2.htm

or how about alarms from this website, are they eBay-like ripoff crap quality too?
http://www.ecarsecurity.com/Default.asp?Redirected=Y

then maybe I can just find someone and hire them to install it for me. or just hire circuitcity for like $200-$15 plus tax. How is that plan?

Hey,
That alarm by autozone i have never seen before. I dont see a name brand on it so it looks like another cheap brand.

The second link shows me alot of Astra alarms. I did deal with them before and the alarms are good, but the only problem you might have is that those remotes break so easy! They make extremely cheap remotes to the point where most people that buy that alarm usually have to come back a couple of months down the line to buy another remote.

And please stay away from CC, BB, or frys for installation. They might be able to install a radio or a couple of speakers, but there installation other than that is horrible. Most installers that are extremely skilled and professional usually work at the specialty store because thats where they make the most money. BB,CC,Frys hire almost anyone and pay very little so i would never trust my car with them.

Go to one of your local specialty stores that you have shopped around to, and get either the clifford or viper. Its well worth the money and you will have a security system thats reliable and not have to worry about this anymore.

what's the use of distribution block.do i need that tooooo.

what's the use of distribution block.do i need that tooooo.

Hey,
No you dont need a distribution block. Your only installing one amplifier into your vehicle. When you start getting into two or three amplifiers, thats when you need a distribution block.

hey,
i shd go with 100 amp right or 60 amp is just fine too.


thanks as always. :)

hey,
i shd go with 100 amp right or 60 amp is just fine too.


thanks as always. :)

Hey,
Are you talking about the fuse?

Hey,
Are you talking about the fuse?

:nod:

:nod:

Hey,
I'd go with a 100 if your going witht the regular AGU fuse. I would highly recommend going ANL though.

Could you made a video while you are installing an alarm?

Could you made a video while you are installing an alarm?

Hey,
I actually do not own a video camera.

Also, every car is different. Its not something you can watch and learn and go do on your vehicle. Also, i high recommend professional installation for alarms. Its something i dont suggest for people that are not professional in the field. 1 wire cut wrong could mean thousands of dollars in repairs for your airbags, on board computer etc...

You really should be able to read electrical diagrams and if at all possible have the factory electrical service manual to give you the wiring diagrams of the car. There are good ways to install alarms and then there are horrible accidents waiting to happen.

You really should be able to read electrical diagrams and if at all possible have the factory electrical service manual to give you the wiring diagrams of the car. There are good ways to install alarms and then there are horrible accidents waiting to happen.

Thats correct although it gets real difficult when putting an alarm on a Mercedes and 2008 Escalade for example, and all dodge's. 1 cut of the wrong wire and you can be looking to spend thousands in repairs.

Hi, I am planning to install a remote starter & keyless entry in my car , need ur advice which one to install ?
1998 - MAZDA - MPV .

Hi, I am planning to install a remote starter & keyless entry in my car , need ur advice which one to install ?
1998 - MAZDA - MPV .

Hey,
Good name brand ones to look for would be Viper, Clifford, Python, Prestige, and Carbine. They make fine remote start and keyless entry systems.

Any other questions let me know

Hello,

I'm looking to install some new speakers and a new stereo in my car. It is a 1998 Subaru Legacy station wagon.

Here's what I've come up with on my own:


Polk Audio db6501 6-1/2" Component System (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-id2CY4TgNBk/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=107DB6501&s=0&cc=01)

Pioneer DEH-P4000UB CD Receiver (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-id2CY4TgNBk/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=130DEHP4UB&s=0&cc=01)

Profile AP400 65W x 2 Car Amp (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-id2CY4TgNBk/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=489AP400&s=0&cc=01)

EFX Amplifier Wiring Kit 10-gauge 250-watt w/Patch Cord (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-id2CY4TgNBk/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=142PA10&s=0&cc=01)

Total: $466.96

Now, I know that this isn't top of the line stuff (i.e. the amp and wiring kit), but will this make due and sound pretty good? Keep in mind my stock speakers are terrible and almost anything will sound better then them.

Also, I am on a limited budget. I'm only 17 years and don't make THAT much money, so I can sacrifice a little bit of quality to get stuff cheaper.

Will this give me a fair amount of bass too? It doesn't need to be bumping to the point where other cars get pissed off about it, but I listen to a good amount of reggae and I want to be able to hear the bass properly.

Edit: Oh, and I think I'm going to order from crutchfield even though they are more expensive because the include some useful stuff with the order for free, and they also have great support that I can call up whenever I want. If you have a reason I shouldn't buy from them, let me know. I'm open to whatever

Hello,

I'm looking to install some new speakers and a new stereo in my car. It is a 1998 Subaru Legacy station wagon.

Here's what I've come up with on my own:


Polk Audio db6501 6-1/2" Component System (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-id2CY4TgNBk/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=107DB6501&s=0&cc=01)

Pioneer DEH-P4000UB CD Receiver (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-id2CY4TgNBk/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=130DEHP4UB&s=0&cc=01)

Profile AP400 65W x 2 Car Amp (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-id2CY4TgNBk/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=489AP400&s=0&cc=01)

EFX Amplifier Wiring Kit 10-gauge 250-watt w/Patch Cord (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-id2CY4TgNBk/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=142PA10&s=0&cc=01)

Total: $466.96

Now, I know that this isn't top of the line stuff (i.e. the amp and wiring kit), but will this make due and sound pretty good? Keep in mind my stock speakers are terrible and almost anything will sound better then them.

Also, I am on a limited budget. I'm only 17 years and don't make THAT much money, so I can sacrifice a little bit of quality to get stuff cheaper.

Will this give me a fair amount of bass too? It doesn't need to be bumping to the point where other cars get pissed off about it, but I listen to a good amount of reggae and I want to be able to hear the bass properly.

Edit: Oh, and I think I'm going to order from crutchfield even though they are more expensive because the include some useful stuff with the order for free, and they also have great support that I can call up whenever I want. If you have a reason I shouldn't buy from them, let me know. I'm open to whatever

Hey,
Let me give you some advice on your system.

First of all, Polk makes great speakers, so that system you chose is not a bad choice.

The deck is more on the simpler lower end side, but since your still young and dont have too much money, that will work. You get ipod controls via usb, enough outputs for multiple amplifiers and a remote control. It might not be the prettiest deck out, but it will do the job.

The amp is very small. It has 65wx2 rms. That means together you will only get 130watts rms (real power). Thats not enough for even entry level subs, so you might want to look at something else with more power. Which brings me to my next point, I dont see a subwoofer and box in your system? Without one, forget havving good bass. Your component set is made to give you good, clear highs, not bass. The mid on your component is their to pick up the lows that bigger woofers cant, but it wont do the job of giving you solid bass. You absoluetly need a subwoofer to get what you want.

The amp wiring kit is extremely thin. Why go 10gauge? I would go at least 8 gauge that way if you ever do upgrade to a bigger amp, you dont have to rewire your car.


If you plan on doing the installation yourself, that might not be a bad price for all that stuff. The amp is sort of a cheap brand, but it'll work. If you plan on getting it professionally installed, you might want to check out your local stores. Sometimes they give huge discounts on installation if you buy the prodcut from them. Many times that comes out to be cheaper than buying it from one place and getting it installed at another. Also, walking into a local store, you might be able to negotiate. If you walked in and told them you have $500 to spend for example, im sure they can do something that way they dont lose the sale.

Let me know if you have any other questions

Hey,
Let me give you some advice on your system.

First of all, Polk makes great speakers, so that system you chose is not a bad choice.

The deck is more on the simpler lower end side, but since your still young and dont have too much money, that will work. You get ipod controls via usb, enough outputs for multiple amplifiers and a remote control. It might not be the prettiest deck out, but it will do the job.

The amp is very small. It has 65wx2 rms. That means together you will only get 130watts rms (real power). Thats not enough for even entry level subs, so you might want to look at something else with more power. Which brings me to my next point, I dont see a subwoofer and box in your system? Without one, forget havving good bass. Your component set is made to give you good, clear highs, not bass. The mid on your component is their to pick up the lows that bigger woofers cant, but it wont do the job of giving you solid bass. You absoluetly need a subwoofer to get what you want.

The amp wiring kit is extremely thin. Why go 10gauge? I would go at least 8 gauge that way if you ever do upgrade to a bigger amp, you dont have to rewire your car.


If you plan on doing the installation yourself, that might not be a bad price for all that stuff. The amp is sort of a cheap brand, but it'll work. If you plan on getting it professionally installed, you might want to check out your local stores. Sometimes they give huge discounts on installation if you buy the prodcut from them. Many times that comes out to be cheaper than buying it from one place and getting it installed at another. Also, walking into a local store, you might be able to negotiate. If you walked in and told them you have $500 to spend for example, im sure they can do something that way they dont lose the sale.

Let me know if you have any other questions

First of all, thanks so much for your help.

Right now I have a completely stock speaker system, which I'm almost positive has no amp. I know that amp is small, but I never even turn the system up to max volume as it is now. I guess my question about that is, with the amp/speaker's I chose, will it be as loud/louder then my current system?

About the bass. Right now, I'm not completely satisfied with the bass. However, in my parents car, a toyota prius with stock everything, I'm 100% happy with how it sounds. I'm under the assumption is doesn't have a sub, so will I be able to get equivalent bass (equivalent to the stock system of the prius or pretty much any new car) with the component speakers I chose? OR are the component speakers specifically designed for mids/highs and pretty much have to be used with a sub?

I guess you're right, I'll spend a little extra and get the 8 gauge. Is pretty much any brand wiring kit good enough?

I'll be sure to check out some local stores before I place the order, too.

First of all, thanks so much for your help.

Right now I have a completely stock speaker system, which I'm almost positive has no amp. I know that amp is small, but I never even turn the system up to max volume as it is now. I guess my question about that is, with the amp/speaker's I chose, will it be as loud/louder then my current system?

About the bass. Right now, I'm not completely satisfied with the bass. However, in my parents car, a toyota prius with stock everything, I'm 100% happy with how it sounds. I'm under the assumption is doesn't have a sub, so will I be able to get equivalent bass (equivalent to the stock system of the prius or pretty much any new car) with the component speakers I chose? OR are the component speakers specifically designed for mids/highs and pretty much have to be used with a sub?

I guess you're right, I'll spend a little extra and get the 8 gauge. Is pretty much any brand wiring kit good enough?

I'll be sure to check out some local stores before I place the order, too.

Hey,
Yes the new system will for sure be louder than your stock system, but might not give you exactly what you want.

With alot of the new cars, the manufacturer includes a factory sub in the vehicle. You might not see it because they enclose them somewhere in the car thats not visible withou removing panels.

Let me tell you how i would go about this. Run the components to the deck. Put the amp on bridged to a single subwoofer in a sealed enclosure. I would go with a Rockford Fosgate Punch P1 or an Alpine Type E 10". Those are good, reliable, name brand entry level subs with a good price tag. That should get you what you want.

How about this one for size :)

2004 H1 Hummer (Humvee). I would assume for the most part electricals are stock GM-ish stuff. Its a diesel, and i'm looking to install a viper remote start (for these hellish summers we've got in arizona).

Do you think its going to be a major pita to install?

How about this one for size :)

2004 H1 Hummer (Humvee). I would assume for the most part electricals are stock GM-ish stuff. Its a diesel, and i'm looking to install a viper remote start (for these hellish summers we've got in arizona).

Do you think its going to be a major pita to install?

The Viper 791 and the Viper 5900 are popular choices when it comes to installing remote start systems+alarm system on those vehicles. If your looking JUST for remote start, the 5500 would work.:)

And yes, those are a pain to do because if you want to do keyless entry, you have to use a module to bypass the chips in the key. I say leave it to the professionals for something like this.

hey bayareaa,
how you doing man. finally i got my system installed 2 15 kicker cvr's,zx750.1 and jl audio 4 gauge wiring.

my question is how much do you regularly charge for
1. amp installation
2.line output convertor
3. jl audio 4 gauge amp kit
4. 2 rca's

i just want to know if i got a good deal or not.

hey bayareaa,
how you doing man. finally i got my system installed 2 15 kicker cvr's,zx750.1 and jl audio 4 gauge wiring.

my question is how much do you regularly charge for
1. amp installation
2.line output convertor
3. jl audio 4 gauge amp kit
4. 2 rca's

i just want to know if i got a good deal or not.

Hey,
Amp installation runs between $65-150 depending on the car for most cars (not including lamborghinis,ferraris,porches,bentleys etc..)

There are different types of line output converter, but usually between $20 for a basic one -$65 for a more advanced one.

I dont deal with JL audio, but a good 4gauge wiring kit should be around $85 and up.

Also depending on the RCAs. The generic ones go for about 10-15 bucks a piece whereas good ones go anywhere from $25-65.

What did you pay?

Hey,
Yes the new system will for sure be louder than your stock system, but might not give you exactly what you want.

With alot of the new cars, the manufacturer includes a factory sub in the vehicle. You might not see it because they enclose them somewhere in the car thats not visible withou removing panels.

Let me tell you how i would go about this. Run the components to the deck. Put the amp on bridged to a single subwoofer in a sealed enclosure. I would go with a Rockford Fosgate Punch P1 or an Alpine Type E 10". Those are good, reliable, name brand entry level subs with a good price tag. That should get you what you want.

So your saying skip the amp all together for the speakers the use that amp to power a sub instead? Are the speakers still going to be loud enough?

Edit: Also, what do you think about this amp instead of the old one?

New: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=300&i=113KDCX492&tp=5684

Old: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=300&i=130DEHP4UB&tp=5684

It seems like it has a little more power for not that much more money, and pretty much the same amount of features as the old one.

So your saying skip the amp all together for the speakers the use that amp to power a sub instead? Are the speakers still going to be loud enough?

Edit: Also, what do you think about this amp instead of the old one?

New: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=300&i=113KDCX492&tp=5684

Old: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=300&i=130DEHP4UB&tp=5684

It seems like it has a little more power for not that much more money, and pretty much the same amount of features as the old one.

Hey,
What you showed me were decks, not amplifiers.

Hey,
What you showed me were decks, not amplifiers.

Oh, I meant to put decks.

Oh, I meant to put decks.

Hey,
That deck does have about 8 watts rms per channel more than the Pioneer. It wont make too much difference, but if 5 bucks doesnt matter to you i'd say go for it.

Hey,
That deck does have about 8 watts rms per channel more than the Pioneer. It wont make too much difference, but if 5 bucks doesnt matter to you i'd say go for it.

Ok so I think I'll go with the second deck. But are you saying just run the components straight to the deck and skip the amp all together? If so, how would I do that?

Ok so I think I'll go with the second deck. But are you saying just run the components straight to the deck and skip the amp all together? If so, how would I do that?

Hey,
Run the components straight to deck (which has a built in amplifier) and use the external amp you were going to buy to run a subwoofer in a enclosure.

Hey,
Run the components straight to deck (which has a built in amplifier) and use the external amp you were going to buy to run a subwoofer in a enclosure.

Ok, now my question is how is all that going to be wired up? From what I can tell, the deck only has RCA outputs yet I need it to be speaker wire going into the component system. Is there an adapter or something I need to use? Sorry for all these questions, I've never done anything like this before.

Ok, now my question is how is all that going to be wired up? From what I can tell, the deck only has RCA outputs yet I need it to be speaker wire going into the component system. Is there an adapter or something I need to use? Sorry for all these questions, I've never done anything like this before.

Hey,
All you have to do is when you remove the original speaker is to cut the 2 wires (positive and negative) and splice them and wire them into the speaker connections on the speaker.

Use RCA's for the amplifier.

Hey,
Amp installation runs between $65-150 depending on the car for most cars (not including lamborghinis,ferraris,porches,bentleys etc..)

There are different types of line output converter, but usually between $20 for a basic one -$65 for a more advanced one.

I dont deal with JL audio, but a good 4gauge wiring kit should be around $85 and up.

Also depending on the RCAs. The generic ones go for about 10-15 bucks a piece whereas good ones go anywhere from $25-65.

What did you pay?

paid $200. and i have a 2004 malibu. forgot to get my capacitor installed. can i do it myself.

paid $200. and i have a 2004 malibu. forgot to get my capacitor installed. can i do it myself.

Hey,

Yeah thats not bad. Its not too hard to install a capacitor. All it is is a ground and power wire.

?

I have a 1995 geo prizm lsi. For the past few months I have been debating getting car alarm starter with keyless entry.

I have seen a few deals on ebay for asystem but when i checked with some local places in my area, on average they are asking for about $130 just to install it which really takes the umph out of it considering the starter would be about $80.

My question is which would be a good one for a 95 prizm and also is this a hard job to do and thats why they are asking for that much. I see a few of them says its easy to install and some includes dvds.

thanks for any feedback.



Edit... Just seen this post (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=12487771&postcount=15)and read i should get that professionally done. The power of reading :)

?

I have a 1995 geo prizm lsi. For the past few months I have been debating getting car alarm starter with keyless entry.

I have seen a few deals on ebay for asystem but when i checked with some local places in my area, on average they are asking for about $130 just to install it which really takes the umph out of it considering the starter would be about $80.

My question is which would be a good one for a 95 prizm and also is this a hard job to do and thats why they are asking for that much. I see a few of them says its easy to install and some includes dvds.

thanks for any feedback.



Edit... Just seen this post (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=12487771&postcount=15)and read i should get that professionally done. The power of reading :)

Hey,

Like i stated before, anytime you buy something somewhere else than go in for somone else to install it for you, it will usually cost you more. Best thing to do is go buy one from a local store and let them install it. That way they will guarantee their work as they know in depth the product they are selling (there are millions of different brands/models etc).

Also, although its an older car, installing a alarm, especially remote start, isint as easy as you might think. 1 wrong wire cut could cost you thousands of dollars.

Hi Bay,

My daughter's 2000 Honda Civic didn't come with power locks (although there's a switch on the driverside door for that purpose). Is there a way I could tell if it needs actuators without taking the door panels off?

Also, which inexpensive kit would you recommend if we only need a remote keyless entry system (no bell and whistles like remote starter and alarm needed)?

Thanks so much

Hi Bay,

My daughter's 2000 Honda Civic didn't come with power locks (although there's a switch on the driverside door for that purpose). Is there a way I could tell if it needs actuators without taking the door panels off?

Also, which inexpensive kit would you recommend if we only need a remote keyless entry system (no bell and whistles like remote starter and alarm needed)?

Thanks so much

Hey,

If the car has a power lock switch, it SHOULD have power locks. I have never seen a car with powerlock switch from the factory without it having actuators already in the car.

If you need actuators, you would need one for each door. DEI makes good actuators. These are usually sold at every local car audio store.

For keyless entry, I would go with either a Viper/Clifford or marksman, carbine, prestige, python.

Here:
http://www.viper.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=118

I have a Chrysler Town and country base model year 2007. Is there a really cheap way to connect my mp3 player to it, like one of those aux connection adaptors / headphone jack thingie (I wonder if this thing even has a headphone jack) ?
Right now I have it connected with one of those fm transmitter contraptions and the sound quality is very iffy in places.
My problem is, I just bought a TV and if I spend one penny more my wife might disown me , lol !
Thanks for your help in advance and sorry if I am disturbing you.

I have a Chrysler Town and country base model year 2007. Is there a really cheap way to connect my mp3 player to it, like one of those aux connection adaptors / headphone jack thingie (I wonder if this thing even has a headphone jack) ?
Right now I have it connected with one of those fm transmitter contraptions and the sound quality is very iffy in places.
My problem is, I just bought a TV and if I spend one penny more my wife might disown me , lol !
Thanks for your help in advance and sorry if I am disturbing you.

Hey,
Unfortunantely it looks like there is nothing available for your vehicle for what your looking for.

This is a website that we use for OEM integration.
http://www.peripheralelectronics.com/

I would tell you to consider replacing the radio with an aftermarket one. They come with alot more features including direct ipod connectivity.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

thanks for ur reply Bay.

So I realized spending $500 on a system wasn't really in my budget right now, but hopefully soon!

For now I'll try to spruce up what I have with just a little money. I bought some dynamat and cut it out/put it just right around where the front speakers are (I have some middle of the line kickers that aren't that amazing.) My goal is to make the bass just a little louder, and I've heard having a better seal between the speaker and the inside of the door helps. The problem is there 2 more BIG holes in the door and one smaller one. If I sealed these off for the most part (there's mechanical things [little wire thing that opens the door] that make it so I can't totally seal it) would that help with bass at all? Or am I doing this for nothing?

So I realized spending $500 on a system wasn't really in my budget right now, but hopefully soon!

For now I'll try to spruce up what I have with just a little money. I bought some dynamat and cut it out/put it just right around where the front speakers are (I have some middle of the line kickers that aren't that amazing.) My goal is to make the bass just a little louder, and I've heard having a better seal between the speaker and the inside of the door helps. The problem is there 2 more BIG holes in the door and one smaller one. If I sealed these off for the most part (there's mechanical things [little wire thing that opens the door] that make it so I can't totally seal it) would that help with bass at all? Or am I doing this for nothing?

Hey,
Your pretty much doing it for nothing. Door speakers aren't meant for bass. They are for your highs and treble. The difference with the Dynamat ONLY won't make too much of a difference.
But I always say if you cant do it all at once, do it step by step!

hey bay,
after i did all the installation and everything on my car. i think my battery is not taking the load of my system. and i went to car tunes and i asked them if they can install the capacitor for me, they said these cap's wont do any good.they just store little bit power that's it. after one bass they'll loose power.

i have 1.0 farad rockford capacitor. what should i do.

any other option, than installing a whole new battery for my system

hey bay,
after i did all the installation and everything on my car. i think my battery is not taking the load of my system. and i went to car tunes and i asked them if they can install the capacitor for me, they said these cap's wont do any good.they just store little bit power that's it. after one bass they'll loose power.

i have 1.0 farad rockford capacitor. what should i do.

any other option, than installing a whole new battery for my system

Hey,
Capacitor does help. Its not the final all end solution, but it does help alot. What you can do is replace your current battery with a OPTIMA yellow top.

Here is the link to their website:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/home.php

Usually with all my customer cars/boats that do big systems, i recommend optima for their batterys.

Are you aware of any keyless entry and/or security systems that will pulse the "unlock" line every time you push the unlock button on the remote?

I bought one that doesn't — if I disarm/unlock with the remote, then manually lock the car, the remote will not unlock again until I arm/lock and then disarm/unlock.

Also, are there any systems that can be armed when you press the car's electronic lock button — inside the car, not factory keyless fob (preferably only when the key is not in the ignition)? That would be more like the factory systems in some cars.

2001 Toyota Corolla LE.
Original CD Radio On Off/Volume button seems to be broken.

Can you recommend any cheap replacement which would not require any modifications ? i.e I could just pretty much swap it out.

I'm looking to spend only about 50 bucks.

Seen a used exact one on ebay for 110.

Thanks in advance.

Are you aware of any keyless entry and/or security systems that will pulse the "unlock" line every time you push the unlock button on the remote?

I bought one that doesn't — if I disarm/unlock with the remote, then manually lock the car, the remote will not unlock again until I arm/lock and then disarm/unlock.

Also, are there any systems that can be armed when you press the car's electronic lock button — inside the car, not factory keyless fob (preferably only when the key is not in the ignition)? That would be more like the factory systems in some cars.

Hey,
What brand alarm did you buy?
Also, have you checked out the Viper line of alarm systems?

2001 Toyota Corolla LE.
Original CD Radio On Off/Volume button seems to be broken.

Can you recommend any cheap replacement which would not require any modifications ? i.e I could just pretty much swap it out.

I'm looking to spend only about 50 bucks.

Seen a used exact one on ebay for 110.

Thanks in advance.

Hey,

Good news is that your car is a single din so you can go without purchasing a dash kit. There are aftermarket radios that you can find for about 50 bucks, but those wont last long at all. They usually sell them at flea markets and last a couple of months max. They are usually very unfriendly like with there designs.


I would highly recommend you save up about 100 bucks and get yourself a entry level sony/jvc/kenwood/pioneer reciever.

Also remember that you will need to buy a harness, which can cost you anywhere from 12 bucks to 20 dollars depending where you get it at

Hey,
have you checked out the Viper line of alarm systems?
I've looked at Vipers (and others), but even the user manuals don't answer my question. Do Vipers (or any others) do what I'm looking for?

My car didn't include the factory keyless entry system, so I'm not looking for an aftermarket add-on that integrates with an OEM system. Just trying to emulate these particular features that I've seen in several OEM systems (permits repeated locks or unlocks, and ability to arm via car's electric lock buttons).

Hey,

Good news is that your car is a single din so you can go without purchasing a dash kit. There are aftermarket radios that you can find for about 50 bucks, but those wont last long at all. They usually sell them at flea markets and last a couple of months max. They are usually very unfriendly like with there designs.


I would highly recommend you save up about 100 bucks and get yourself a entry level sony/jvc/kenwood/pioneer reciever.

Also remember that you will need to buy a harness, which can cost you anywhere from 12 bucks to 20 dollars depending where you get it at

Thanks

BayAreaaa,
I've been looking at that crutchfield HD receiver that was listed on the front page a few days ago. Here's the link (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uVVRqsbQqJ4/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?I=070XHD6420&pfxid=k1971&pfxid=k1971).

My real interests are a front aux in port for my iPod, with the HD radio being an added bonus. I'm getting sick of the poor quality provided by my cheap tape adapter.

I have a 2000 VW New Beetle with the stock unit. Crutchfield's site says that it will fit, but I'm concerned with how it will look. The slot in the dash the unit takes up is round on the sides and the crutchfield unit is not.

Have you ever dealt with this issue on new beetles? It seems like there should be cheap plastic molds that fit in the gaps created on the outside.

On a related note, is the quality of the unit I linked decent? I don't need a great unit, I just want something that will be reliable.

Thanks in advance,
WinterPhoenix

I've looked at Vipers (and others), but even the user manuals don't answer my question. Do Vipers (or any others) do what I'm looking for?

My car didn't include the factory keyless entry system, so I'm not looking for an aftermarket add-on that integrates with an OEM system. Just trying to emulate these particular features that I've seen in several OEM systems (permits repeated locks or unlocks, and ability to arm via car's electric lock buttons).

Hey,
To arm the vehicle with the factory locks using an aftermarket alarm keyless entry I have never seen or done. It might be one of those things where only the factory does it.

BayAreaaa, did you see my question from a couple days ago?

BayAreaaa,
I've been looking at that crutchfield HD receiver that was listed on the front page a few days ago. Here's the link (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uVVRqsbQqJ4/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?I=070XHD6420&pfxid=k1971&pfxid=k1971).

My real interests are a front aux in port for my iPod, with the HD radio being an added bonus. I'm getting sick of the poor quality provided by my cheap tape adapter.

I have a 2000 VW New Beetle with the stock unit. Crutchfield's site says that it will fit, but I'm concerned with how it will look. The slot in the dash the unit takes up is round on the sides and the crutchfield unit is not.

Have you ever dealt with this issue on new beetles? It seems like there should be cheap plastic molds that fit in the gaps created on the outside.

On a related note, is the quality of the unit I linked decent? I don't need a great unit, I just want something that will be reliable.

Thanks in advance,
WinterPhoenix



Hey,
Sorry for the late response. All single din head units are standard sizes. For the beetle, we use a dash kit.

This is a picture of the kit:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21MPBE443SL._SL500_AA216_.jpg

The head unit will fit right in the middle and it has the rounded sides on the kit that should fit the hole perfect.

I used to sell Dual products, but i would get many complaints and returns from customers. Their products are cheaply made and dont last long. I would recommend you pay about $20 more and get a Sony, Jvc, Kenwood etc..

Great, thanks for the answer!

hey man, i installed sony aftermarket stereo in my 2004 maxima but there is a slight gap in between dash and the board. it bothers me slightly. anyways i had an eclipse before but needed an ipod connection so bought it from the sony store.

hey man, i installed sony aftermarket stereo in my 2004 maxima but there is a slight gap in between dash and the board. it bothers me slightly. anyways i had an eclipse before but needed an ipod connection so bought it from the sony store.

Hey,
Which dash kit did you use?

I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Diamante as my winter/work car. I replaced the factory radio recently with a JVC (HD unit) from crutchfield (slickdeal). My factory radio was part of the infinity sound system. Anyway, it had two antennas, one standard size connector and one of the mini connectors. I assume one is front of the car and one is rear of the car.

Have you ever seen a "Y" adapter that would have 2 female connectors both of these antennas leads in my car, that combines them into one male plug for the head unit?

hey bay,
i asked you a question about my kicker sound system and how my battery is not taking the load of my system and you advised me for a yellow top optima battery. i just want to ask should i got with d51 or d34/78. or are they same..please reply asap..

thanks as always

hey bay,
i asked you a question about my kicker sound system and how my battery is not taking the load of my system and you advised me for a yellow top optima battery. i just want to ask should i got with d51 or d34/78. or are they same..please reply asap..

thanks as always

Hey,
Sorry for the late response.
I would go with the d34/78 as it has more cranking amps and capacity. But if the only option you have available is the d51, I would go with that too. Either way would work.

I have a 2005 Nissan Altima. I want to put in a new car stereo in that has an input option for mp3 players but I don't know much about instillation or car stereos. Any ideas for something cheap and simple to put in?

I have a 2005 Nissan Altima. I want to put in a new car stereo in that has an input option for mp3 players but I don't know much about instillation or car stereos. Any ideas for something cheap and simple to put in?

Hey,
Does your Altima have a factory BOSE system?

hi dear what r u saying i m not geting

Are these good deals?

http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/879484587.html

http://eugene.craigslist.org/ele/835363017.html

I have a good memphis amp, that can power those and a VERY nice box that I would put them into. but is it a good deal just for the subs? are they decent? or can I find better deals?

Thanks in advance, and I was told to ask you about this kind of stuff.

Also, someone on craiglist has a black widow alarm with keyless entry for $275 installed. is this a good deal?

Thanks again.
Cory

EDIT:
I have a 1993 BMW 325IS (if that helps any. haha)

Are these good deals?

http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/879484587.html

http://eugene.craigslist.org/ele/835363017.html

I have a good memphis amp, that can power those and a VERY nice box that I would put them into. but is it a good deal just for the subs? are they decent? or can I find better deals?

Thanks in advance, and I was told to ask you about this kind of stuff.

Also, someone on craiglist has a black widow alarm with keyless entry for $275 installed. is this a good deal?

Thanks again.
Cory

EDIT:
I have a 1993 BMW 325IS (if that helps any. haha)

Hey,
I'd def. go with the 2 JL audio subs in the box. Those are much better sounding and quality woofers.


As far as the alarm goes, I would need more information to know if its a good deal or not. Try to find out more information and let me know.

Hey,
I'd def. go with the 2 JL audio subs in the box. Those are much better sounding and quality woofers.


As far as the alarm goes, I would need more information to know if its a good deal or not. Try to find out more information and let me know.


Thats what I figured. I'll check those out tonight. Do you know how much those go for brand new each? I couldn't find them online.

Thats what I figured. I'll check those out tonight. Do you know how much those go for brand new each? I couldn't find them online.

Hey,
Yeah those are a better choice. As far as the subs go, those are old models so they are no longer available in the market. Also, as far as price goes, i woudlnt know because i am and have never been an authorized JL Audio dealer. Im more of an Alpine guy. But I would guess about $100-$125 each brand new.

Hope that helps!

Hey,
Yeah those are a better choice. As far as the subs go, those are old models so they are no longer available in the market. Also, as far as price goes, i woudlnt know because i am and have never been an authorized JL Audio dealer. Im more of an Alpine guy. But I would guess about $100-$125 each brand new.

Hope that helps!

That sounds good. I'll try to talk him down to like $50 for the pair then. :)

wish me luck. and thanks again man.

just stumbled on this thread, so I figured I'd take you up on your offer. repped in advance.

2006 HONDA CR-V SE

I would like to replace the stock HU and speakers (4 in the doors, 2 tweeters on top of the dash looking up at the windshield), and add a small sub and amp.

For the sub I am considering making a sealed enclosure for two JL Audio 6W3v3. I need them to be 6 12" subs so the enclusure can fit between the front seats (under the flip-up tray which I will modify to be a fixed tray).

For the front door speakers and tweeters I will go component. The tweeters need only be surface mount, as I plan on installing them on the "door sails" (also known as "door mirror garnish" in the Honda parts catalog. WTF?) The woofers need to fit the doors in the stock location, with or without adapters.

For the back doors, I may leave them be, or maybe upgrade to better 2-way speakers.

For amp, I'd like to power the sub, and if possible the other two channels (6 speakers)

For the HU, quality sound is the most important feature, with AUX input and a lack of "bling" a close second. Depending on the answer to the amp question below, power may be a consideration as well.

questions:

for the tweeters, should I disable those in the dash, or leave them on

for the fronts, can you recommend a set of separates, trying to stay close $200 or less. would a 5.25" set (for instance Polk db525x) suffice since the sub will handle the lows, or would a 6.5" set (polk db650x) be the wiser choice. What will fit in the doors?

for the rear doors, will the stock speakers be a downer once the fronts are replaced?

for the sub, is twin 6.5" going to give solid low performance? I do not want to impress anyone outside the vehicle, I just want it to be very tight bass.

for the amp, is it possible to run all this off one amp, or should I run the speakers of the HU and just the sub off an amp

just stumbled on this thread, so I figured I'd take you up on your offer. repped in advance.

2006 HONDA CR-V SE

I would like to replace the stock HU and speakers (4 in the doors, 2 tweeters on top of the dash looking up at the windshield), and add a small sub and amp.

For the sub I am considering making a sealed enclosure for two JL Audio 6W3v3. I need them to be 6 12" subs so the enclusure can fit between the front seats (under the flip-up tray which I will modify to be a fixed tray).

For the front door speakers and tweeters I will go component. The tweeters need only be surface mount, as I plan on installing them on the "door sails" (also known as "door mirror garnish" in the Honda parts catalog. WTF?) The woofers need to fit the doors in the stock location, with or without adapters.

For the back doors, I may leave them be, or maybe upgrade to better 2-way speakers.

For amp, I'd like to power the sub, and if possible the other two channels (6 speakers)

For the HU, quality sound is the most important feature, with AUX input and a lack of "bling" a close second. Depending on the answer to the amp question below, power may be a consideration as well.

questions:

for the tweeters, should I disable those in the dash, or leave them on

for the fronts, can you recommend a set of separates, trying to stay close $200 or less. would a 5.25" set (for instance Polk db525x) suffice since the sub will handle the lows, or would a 6.5" set (polk db650x) be the wiser choice. What will fit in the doors?

for the rear doors, will the stock speakers be a downer once the fronts are replaced?

for the sub, is twin 6.5" going to give solid low performance? I do not want to impress anyone outside the vehicle, I just want it to be very tight bass.

for the amp, is it possible to run all this off one amp, or should I run the speakers of the HU and just the sub off an amp

Hey,
- As far as the stock tweeters go, I usually take them out and put aftermarket ones in their place. But since your putting them in a different location, I would just leave the stock ones working. They wont cause any harm or make it sound any worse than it already does. If you want to, take em out, if not, you dont need to waste your time with it.

-I would stay with 6.5" set for up front. I recommend either the Alpine Type S component system which should cost you around $200 or the Kicker KS series. JL Audio makes good components, but might be a little out of your $200 budget.

-I would def. recommend you change your back speakers also. I would go for a basic coaxial 6.5" set. Alpine Type S SPS-600 or Rockford Fosgate P162C are good chocies.
Also, if you are planning to do a amp, the stock speakers will not be able to handle the power an aftermarket amp gives out. Eventually they will blow and you will have to replace them, so you might as well replace them now.

-As far as the sub goes, why do you want to go 6" for woofers? Why not do one 10" woofer? 6" will give you solid bass, but not alot. How much are you looking for?

-If you decide to run the the speakers and a single sub off one amp, you can do it by using a 5 channel amplifier. Kicker, MTX, Polk, Alpine all make good 5 channel amplifiers. If you decide to do dual woofers, you might need to do 2 amplifiers or run the speakers off the headunit. I would highly recommend you do all the speakers and do one sub; maybe one ten or one twelve and run them off a 5 channel amp. The sound would come out great and it wont break your bank.

If you have any questions let me know.

Hey,
- As far as the stock tweeters go, I usually take them out and put aftermarket ones in their place. But since your putting them in a different location, I would just leave the stock ones working. They wont cause any harm or make it sound any worse than it already does. If you want to, take em out, if not, you dont need to waste your time with it.

-I would stay with 6.5" set for up front. I recommend either the Alpine Type S component system which should cost you around $200 or the Kicker KS series. JL Audio makes good components, but might be a little out of your $200 budget.

-I would def. recommend you change your back speakers also. I would go for a basic coaxial 6.5" set. Alpine Type S SPS-600 or Rockford Fosgate P162C are good chocies.
Also, if you are planning to do a amp, the stock speakers will not be able to handle the power an aftermarket amp gives out. Eventually they will blow and you will have to replace them, so you might as well replace them now.

-As far as the sub goes, why do you want to go 6" for woofers? Why not do one 10" woofer? 6" will give you solid bass, but not alot. How much are you looking for?

-If you decide to run the the speakers and a single sub off one amp, you can do it by using a 5 channel amplifier. Kicker, MTX, Polk, Alpine all make good 5 channel amplifiers. If you decide to do dual woofers, you might need to do 2 amplifiers or run the speakers off the headunit. I would highly recommend you do all the speakers and do one sub; maybe one ten or one twelve and run them off a 5 channel amp. The sound would come out great and it wont break your bank.

If you have any questions let me know.


Thanks for the speedy reply, I appreciate it.

Alpine was the other brand I had in mind. I would prefer Boston Acoustics, but they are about twice the price.

The reason for two 6.5" subs rather than something larger is available space. The CR-V has a "tub" under the rear storager area where many owners put their subs but I need that space on a regular basis, so it's a no-go for me. The only completely unused space in the vehicle is between the front seats. There is no console, just a cheesy (but useful) tray that flips up from the driver's seat mount. The maximum space with the tray assembly is about 7" x 8" x 18", so 8" subs and larger are out. I guess I have to make a couple prototypes to try to find more space. Does an irregular shape matter? I know cubes and parallel sides are bad, what about a blob-ish shape?

I'll look into a 5-channel amp, that seems to be the way to go. I just need to find one that fits under a seat without starting any fires.

Thanks very much.

Thanks for the speedy reply, I appreciate it.

Alpine was the other brand I had in mind. I would prefer Boston Acoustics, but they are about twice the price.

The reason for two 6.5" subs rather than something larger is available space. The CR-V has a "tub" under the rear storager area where many owners put their subs but I need that space on a regular basis, so it's a no-go for me. The only completely unused space in the vehicle is between the front seats. There is no console, just a cheesy (but useful) tray that flips up from the driver's seat mount. The maximum space with the tray assembly is about 7" x 8" x 18", so 8" subs and larger are out. I guess I have to make a couple prototypes to try to find more space. Does an irregular shape matter? I know cubes and parallel sides are bad, what about a blob-ish shape?

I'll look into a 5-channel amp, that seems to be the way to go. I just need to find one that fits under a seat without starting any fires.

Thanks very much.

Hey,
Im not understanding your question about the irregular shape? Are you talking about the sub or the enclosure?

Also, the Alpine PDX-5 is a very small, yet powerful amp.

Heres the link to the amp:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=PDX-5

Hey,
Im not understanding your question about the irregular shape? Are you talking about the sub or the enclosure?

Also, the Alpine PDX-5 is a very small, yet powerful amp.

Heres the link to the amp:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=PDX-5

I'm talking about the enclosure's shape. For instance, to make the most use of available space I could use fiberglass and mold the enclosure so it fits snug against the nooks and crannies between the seats and under the tray (but not jammed in so much it can't be removed). I've heard that the optimum shape is a sphere, and the worst shape is a cube, due to standing waves inside the enclosure. Does a "blob-like" or very irregular shape help or hurt? And since bazookas are tubes, I assume a cylinder is OK? They have great interior volume for their size.

I'll check out that amp.

Thanks

edit:

yes, that's a very nice $450 amp :eek:

I'm talking about the enclosure's shape. For instance, to make the most use of available space I could use fiberglass and mold the enclosure so it fits snug against the nooks and crannies between the seats and under the tray (but not jammed in so much it can't be removed). I've heard that the optimum shape is a sphere, and the worst shape is a cube, due to standing waves inside the enclosure. Does a "blob-like" or very irregular shape help or hurt? And since bazookas are tubes, I assume a cylinder is OK? They have great interior volume for their size.

I'll check out that amp.

Thanks

edit:

yes, that's a very nice $450 amp :eek:

Hey,
Honestly it really doesn't matter. Ive done boxes in all shapes and forms to fit specific spaces in different cars and they usually come out sounding good regardless.

And yes that amp is more on the expensive side, but its a very small and powerful amp. It will give you 300watts rms to the sub, which is a lot compared to many other 5 channel amplifiers.

Hey,
Honestly it really doesn't matter. Ive done boxes in all shapes and forms to fit specific spaces in different cars and they usually come out sounding good regardless.

And yes that amp is more on the expensive side, but its a very small and powerful amp. It will give you 300watts rms to the sub, which is a lot compared to many other 5 channel amplifiers.

That's what I figured. As long as the structure is very rigid, a weird shape is fine. Thanks for all the info, it has been quite helpful.

Wondering if you could help me please.

I had a python 580 (remote starter 2way) installed in my 2008 subaru imprezza on 10/29/2008. The dealer installed locks (already had factory power locks) and trunk release (hatch in this case).

I am unable to get into programming mode to change settings and even with DEI tech help was unable to as well.

Also sometimes when the car starts the parking lights come on sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes when you hit the door locks the lights flash sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes the blue light on the antena flashes and sometimes it doesn't. This light is very annoying at nighttime driving.

I talked to the place where I had it installed and they are going to look at it again and they promised to fix everything and make it right. But my biggest concern is this is that when you have the lights switch on the security light is off but when you turn off the lights the security switch light stays on (factory security light on the dash). Is this a problem?

Should the blue light be flashing on the antena?

Shouldn't I be able to enter programming mode and change settings?

I am pretty good with electronics as I used to install Ultra starts on several vehicles and never had any issues whatesoever with them. The reason I didn't install this time is because I am at the point in my life where I can pay other people to do these things but I think I got a bad install job.

This place I took it too is an authorized dealer and has been in business for several years.

I can offer you advise on any purchases you are about to make, what to look for, whats good/not good, and any problems you have that you need to troubleshoot.

I been in the business both in retail and installation for many years now and my family has been in it for generations so this is our expertise

Ive helped countless amount of SDers with their questions about purchases and what to look for when buying and installing these sorts of things, as it sometimes becomes overwhelming to any thats not car savvy:D
.....





I own a 2005 Nissan Quest - SE (mini van) with factory installed Bose system. Am not that tech savvy, but I would love to have the system kickup some bass and pick up good low frequencies..

One of my friends is giving me a box and I got a good deal on an 8" subwoofer which can be mounted on the box..Am looking for an inexpensive way to enhance the sound quality at the same time not spoiling the factory installed bose system. I like to hear the bass guitar and the thumps of bass..at the same time, i dont want it to vibrate by entire car. so thats why i thought i'd settle for a 8" setup.. hope i did right?

Now tht I told u what i have, please suggest a good at the same time not so expensive Amp for this and the best way to have the people set it up. if you know of a good installer in SD let me know, I can approach them. Also i use the trunk space often, with the seats folded down. So I would have the figure out a way not lose on space as well...

Thanks
badrie

Wow, I wish I'd known about this thread before I ordered speakers last night :lol:. What do you think of these speakers I just bought: Pioneer 4" (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GT5zqLEeKlS/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=130TSG1042) for front doors and Pioneer 5-1/4" (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GT5zqLEeKlS/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=130TSG1342) for rear deck. I just wanted an upgrade from the factory system in my 1993 Toyota Corolla. I already got a Pioneer stereo (http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=130P3000IB&tp=5684&avf=N) installed.

Also, how difficult is it for an amateur (i.e. myself) to install speakers? Is it as easy as Crutchfield says it is/

I own a 2005 Nissan Quest - SE (mini van) with factory installed Bose system. Am not that tech savvy, but I would love to have the system kickup some bass and pick up good low frequencies..

One of my friends is giving me a box and I got a good deal on an 8" subwoofer which can be mounted on the box..Am looking for an inexpensive way to enhance the sound quality at the same time not spoiling the factory installed bose system. I like to hear the bass guitar and the thumps of bass..at the same time, i dont want it to vibrate by entire car. so thats why i thought i'd settle for a 8" setup.. hope i did right?

Now tht I told u what i have, please suggest a good at the same time not so expensive Amp for this and the best way to have the people set it up. if you know of a good installer in SD let me know, I can approach them. Also i use the trunk space often, with the seats folded down. So I would have the figure out a way not lose on space as well...

Thanks
badrie

Hey,
Yes a 8" subwoofer will give you more bass than your factory installed BOSE system. To suggest an amp, I would need the specifications on the 8" sub you have. Brand, power, impedance would be a good start.

Wow, I wish I'd known about this thread before I ordered speakers last night :lol:. What do you think of these speakers I just bought: Pioneer 4" (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GT5zqLEeKlS/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=130TSG1042) for front doors and Pioneer 5-1/4" (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GT5zqLEeKlS/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=130TSG1342) for rear deck. I just wanted an upgrade from the factory system in my 1993 Toyota Corolla. I already got a Pioneer stereo (http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=130P3000IB&tp=5684&avf=N) installed.

Also, how difficult is it for an amateur (i.e. myself) to install speakers? Is it as easy as Crutchfield says it is/

Hey,
For the price, those are pretty good speakers. The wattage on them is on the lower side, but they should be fine if your looking to just upgrade from factory and nothing more.

Crutchfield makes it seem extremely easy, but its not as easy as they say. Your not doing anything labor intensive, but to somone that is an amateur it might take you a couple of hours. I would keep professional installation in mind.

Thanks for responding, great thread idea btw :nod:

According to Fedex tracking, my speakers should be here on Saturday. I'll give it a shot at installing them myself and I'll update you on how it goes

Hey,
Yes a 8" subwoofer will give you more bass than your factory installed BOSE system. To suggest an amp, I would need the specifications on the 8" sub you have. Brand, power, impedance would be a good start.

Thanks for the prompt response. I got a good deal through slickdeals.net forum on
Polk 8",
dual 4ohms voice coil,
360 watts peak,
180 watts RMS,
Freq response 30 - 200hz,
model number : DB804DVC

Thanks for the prompt response. I got a good deal through slickdeals.net forum on
Polk 8",
dual 4ohms voice coil,
360 watts peak,
180 watts RMS,
Freq response 30 - 200hz,
model number : DB804DVC

Hey,
Thats a pretty good subwoofer. As far as amplifiers go, there's a variety of brands that will work well with it.


Here is a list of good amps that would work with you, although I recommend you shop around at your local car audio specialty stores as you could get them cheaper there than online.

Rockford Fosgate P200-2
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P2002P/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P200-2.html?search=p200-2&tp=115

Kenwood 6202
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC6202/Kenwood-KAC-6202.html?showAll=Y&tp=115

Mtx 200/2
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236TN2002/MTX-Terminator-TN200-2.html?showAll=Y&tp=115

These are just a few out of many that will work for you. If you could tell me how much you want to spend, I might be able to help you out a little more. Also, like I said, I would shop around for these amps and not buy them online. Many times you can find a good deal at a local store that wants to move inventory (talking from our own experience at our store).

Hey,
Thats a pretty good subwoofer. As far as amplifiers go, there's a variety of brands that will work well with it.

Here is a list of good amps that would work with you, although I recommend you shop around at your local car audio specialty stores as you could get them cheaper there than online.

...

These are just a few out of many that will work for you. If you could tell me how much you want to spend, I might be able to help you out a little more. Also, like I said, I would shop around for these amps and not buy them online. Many times you can find a good deal at a local store that wants to move inventory (talking from our own experience at our store).

I dont want to sound cheap, but am looking to keep the cost of the amp under $70 as I know the labor, parts will cost me as well. am i being realistic? i see used amps on craigslist but i dont know if they are reliable..will wait for your advice on this...

I dont want to sound cheap, but am looking to keep the cost of the amp under $70 as I know the labor, parts will cost me as well. am i being realistic? i see used amps on craigslist but i dont know if they are reliable..will wait for your advice on this...

Hey,
$70 is not enough for a brand new amp with about 180w rms power minimum.

The problem with shopping on craigslist is that you might be getting a faulty product, or something that isin't original. Also, manufactures will not honor their warranty when you do not buy the amp from a authorized dealer, and obviously craigslist sellers are not.

Hi Bayareaaa!

I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe LT. W/ Factory Alarm. I'd like to add an alarm system possibly with remote start that I can install myself. I also do NOT want this alarm to have the usual "beep beep" tones when alarm is armed/disarmed like 98% of alarms I hear have. I have heard some that have very different tones (im guessing thse are higher end alarms) I would like to keep this under $400. Also, how diffcult do you think this would be?

Thanks a ton..
Richie, Brooklyn, NY.

Hi Bayareaaa!

I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe LT. W/ Factory Alarm. I'd like to add an alarm system possibly with remote start that I can install myself. I also do NOT want this alarm to have the usual "beep beep" tones when alarm is armed/disarmed like 98% of alarms I hear have. I have heard some that have very different tones (im guessing thse are higher end alarms) I would like to keep this under $400. Also, how diffcult do you think this would be?

Thanks a ton..
Richie, Brooklyn, NY.

Hey,
Most alarms come with the feature called "valet". That feature allows you to arm/disarm the vehicle and not hear the "beep beep" sound.

Have you ever had any experience with electrical components or wires for a lack of better word? Installing alarms are usually very difficult to someone that has never learned how or done them before. I would highly recommend professional installation because a cut of the wrong wire could end up costing you thousands of dollars.

"I'm not looking to spend too much, can I have a decent sound system on a budget?
You sure can, ask me what your looking for and im sure I can whip up a system for you that will fit your budget."

This is my exact question, actually - my car speakers were blown out by the previous owner and I've been reluctant to replace them because I don't know what I'm doing at all. I've just been dealing with the buzz I get whenever I listen to anything with a little bit of bass (even some talk shows!) I have a 2000 Nissan Altima GXE - what do you suggest?

Hey,
$70 is not enough for a brand new amp with about 180w rms power minimum.

The problem with shopping on craigslist is that you might be getting a faulty product, or something that isin't original. Also, manufactures will not honor their warranty when you do not buy the amp from a authorized dealer, and obviously craigslist sellers are not.

Ok, I take your advice, am willing to up the budget to $100. I was going through San Diego Reader (local mag) and a Car audio dealer has advertised Kenwood 500-watt, 4 channel amp for $99. is this the right model. If am shopping for the amp for the 8", 4ohms sub what is the minimum I should be looking for in terms of technical specifications? should it be 2 channel, 4 channel? Minimum wattage etc.. Do you know of any good car audio dealer you have heard about in San Diego?

Thanks

Ok, I take your advice, am willing to up the budget to $100. I was going through San Diego Reader (local mag) and a Car audio dealer has advertised Kenwood 500-watt, 4 channel amp for $99. is this the right model. If am shopping for the amp for the 8", 4ohms sub what is the minimum I should be looking for in terms of technical specifications? should it be 2 channel, 4 channel? Minimum wattage etc.. Do you know of any good car audio dealer you have heard about in San Diego?

Thanks

Hey,
Although a 4ch amp is not the best solution for a subwoofer, it can be used. And at that price, I would go ahead and pick that up from the dealer.

I am hearing an engine noise (whining) when i turn my car on through my speakers which are powered by an amp. Sometimes as well as the whining i can hear a straight high pitch sound. i have a pioneer head unit which is last years model so its not old. i have been told to re-ground it which i done and made little difference. i have been told to get an Inline car sound filter which i got, but am unsure on how to install it as mine came without a diagram. would someone please give me a detailed installation guide, or give me any other ideas? its been annoying mefor the past 6months lol. and i cant find any guides on the net.
cheers

"I'm not looking to spend too much, can I have a decent sound system on a budget?
You sure can, ask me what your looking for and im sure I can whip up a system for you that will fit your budget."

This is my exact question, actually - my car speakers were blown out by the previous owner and I've been reluctant to replace them because I don't know what I'm doing at all. I've just been dealing with the buzz I get whenever I listen to anything with a little bit of bass (even some talk shows!) I have a 2000 Nissan Altima GXE - what do you suggest?

Hey,
That car should have 6.5" speakers all the way around. In your case, i'd recommend you go down to your local car audio specialist and let them install 4 new speakers for you.. I would recommend Alpine Type S, Rockford Fosgate P162C, or Kicker KS65. Those are the best sounding speakers for somone not looking to spend too much. These speakers are meant as a "factory upgrade" type of speaker.

If you can give me a budget of how much you want to spend I can give you more specific things to look for. What I listed above should cost about $200-$220 installed for all four.

I am hearing an engine noise (whining) when i turn my car on through my speakers which are powered by an amp. Sometimes as well as the whining i can hear a straight high pitch sound. i have a pioneer head unit which is last years model so its not old. i have been told to re-ground it which i done and made little difference. i have been told to get an Inline car sound filter which i got, but am unsure on how to install it as mine came without a diagram. would someone please give me a detailed installation guide, or give me any other ideas? its been annoying mefor the past 6months lol. and i cant find any guides on the net.
cheers

Hey,
What brand and model is your amp. Also, what type of RCA's are you using?

Hey,
What brand and model is your amp. Also, what type of RCA's are you using?

The amp is a Kicker KX700.5 with Sony RCA Cables. I have noticed now that the amp is not getting 12V when the ignition is on, i measured and was getting under 10V. So the sound is coming out very flat and not loud at all.

The amp is a Kicker KX700.5 with Sony RCA Cables. I have noticed now that the amp is not getting 12V when the ignition is on, i measured and was getting under 10V. So the sound is coming out very flat and not loud at all.

Hey,
Are the RCA's going directly to your Pioneer headunit?

yes they are.

Update on my previous post (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=172144&p=14053191#post14053191):

Got my speakers yesterday and started installing them today. Front door ones weren't a problem at all. A little frustrating at first, but they turned out great. Rear deck ones were the problem. The speaker brackets (http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=142sac656&i=142SAC656) that they gave me didn't fit at all. There was no way for the screw holes on the bracket and deck to match up. I looked up the reviews and found similar complaints. I only had time to install one of the rear ones, and it's literally only connected with one screw. Is there another alternative solution? I don't have the time or knowledge to make my own brackets, so how much would a pair of custom ones at a typical car audio shop cost me?

Update on my previous post (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=172144&p=14053191#post14053191):

Got my speakers yesterday and started installing them today. Front door ones weren't a problem at all. A little frustrating at first, but they turned out great. Rear deck ones were the problem. The speaker brackets (http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=142sac656&i=142SAC656) that they gave me didn't fit at all. There was no way for the screw holes on the bracket and deck to match up. I looked up the reviews and found similar complaints. I only had time to install one of the rear ones, and it's literally only connected with one screw. Is there another alternative solution? I don't have the time or knowledge to make my own brackets, so how much would a pair of custom ones at a typical car audio shop cost me?

Hey,
Sorry for the late response. Sometimes we just drill new holes into the brackets to have them match with the holes in the car.

Let me know if that works.

Just pulled the trigger on 2 Kenwood KFC-W3011 12" 4-ohm Component Subwoofers, Can anyone suggest an amp that would go well with these? Thanks!

Just pulled the trigger on 2 Kenwood KFC-W3011 12" 4-ohm Component Subwoofers, Can anyone suggest an amp that would go well with these? Thanks!

Rockford Fosgate P500.2
Alpine MRP-M1000 (just a little too much power but a good amp)
Kicker ZX750.1

If you can give me a budget of how much you want to spend on a amp, I can narrow it down for you.

2003 toyota corolla ce
i want to get the cheapest remote starter. i don't need long range. no garage so just want to be able to start car from inside condo so i don't have to scrape windows this winter.

also just bought the car used and no remote to lock/unlock door, but there is a switch inside that locks/unlocks. is it possible to get a remote to lock/unlock the doors. what would this typically cost? where would i go to have it done. toyota said they will not install as it is not factory for the ce model.

i don't need an alarm. just remote start and possibly remote lock/unlock. i don't know anything about cars so any advice is appreciated. i totaled my car so this was a quick buy and looking to spend as little as possible. thx

2003 toyota corolla ce
i want to get the cheapest remote starter. i don't need long range. no garage so just want to be able to start car from inside condo so i don't have to scrape windows this winter.

also just bought the car used and no remote to lock/unlock door, but there is a switch inside that locks/unlocks. is it possible to get a remote to lock/unlock the doors. what would this typically cost? where would i go to have it done. toyota said they will not install as it is not factory for the ce model.

i don't need an alarm. just remote start and possibly remote lock/unlock. i don't know anything about cars so any advice is appreciated. i totaled my car so this was a quick buy and looking to spend as little as possible. thx

Hey,
A good Remote Start system for you would be the Viper 5500. Also, you can add a keyless entry system with almost any alarm.

How much are you looking to spend and will you be getting it professionally installed or doing it yourself? A littlre more information on your budget would help me help you!

Hey,
A good Remote Start system for you would be the Viper 5500. Also, you can add a keyless entry system with almost any alarm.

How much are you looking to spend and will you be getting it professionally installed or doing it yourself? A littlre more information on your budget would help me help you!

I will have it professionally installed. I was hoping to get by with $300ish on the most basic model if possible. I've seen them advertised for like $50 plus installation, but I have no idea what to look for as to which will work. Thanks for your help. I'll check out that viper you recommend. Upon first look, it looks like it might be more than I need.

I will have it professionally installed. I was hoping to get by with $300ish on the most basic model if possible. I've seen them advertised for like $50 plus installation, but I have no idea what to look for as to which will work. Thanks for your help. I'll check out that viper you recommend. Upon first look, it looks like it might be more than I need.

Hey,
If you look hard enough, Im sure you'll find a store that could do the Viper 5500 for about $350 installed. If your looking strictly to stay at $300, alarm brands such as Prestige or Carbine are good alternatives and don't cost as much as Viper or Clifford.

When asking around, just tell the salesman your looking for remote start and keyless entry and thats it.

Hey,
Thats a pretty good subwoofer. As far as amplifiers go, there's a variety of brands that will work well with it.


Here is a list of good amps that would work with you, although I recommend you shop around at your local car audio specialty stores as you could get them cheaper there than online.

Rockford Fosgate P200-2
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P2002P/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P200-2.html?search=p200-2&tp=115

These are just a few out of many that will work for you. If you could tell me how much you want to spend, I might be able to help you out a little more. Also, like I said, I would shop around for these amps and not buy them online. Many times you can find a good deal at a local store that wants to move inventory (talking from our own experience at our store).

Hi Bayarea,

I listened to your advice once again and visited few dealers in san diego, one of them suggested a brand called powerbass which is like 2 ch amp, and he gave me an overall deal of close to $250 which includes only the Amp, sub enclosure, wiring and labor. I havent heard about this brand powerbass, is it good? reliable?

i also saw crutchfield has some sale going on in amps, mtx 702x is sold for 109 and Rockford Fosgate Punch P325.2 is sold for $99. do u think i should go with powerbass or rockford amp?

thanks

Hi Bayarea,

I listened to your advice once again and visited few dealers in san diego, one of them suggested a brand called powerbass which is like 2 ch amp, and he gave me an overall deal of close to $250 which includes only the Amp, sub enclosure, wiring and labor. I havent heard about this brand powerbass, is it good? reliable?

i also saw crutchfield has some sale going on in amps, mtx 702x is sold for 109 and Rockford Fosgate Punch P325.2 is sold for $99. do u think i should go with powerbass or rockford amp?

thanks

Hey,
Powerbass is a middle of the pack brand. I do carry it in my store as more of a budget option. For 250 bucks, it sounds like a good deal. The Rockford Fosgate you saw on crutchfield is a better amp, but if you buy a amp from there and then go get it installed he might charge you more on the installation since you didnt purchase the products from him. I would go in and ask him how much would he charge if you brought your own amp.

If you do decide to go with the powerbass, you wont be dissapointed. Like I said, its not the best brand out there but their quality is good.

Hey BayAreaaa...

Any recommendation on 'slickdeal' car remote starter? Is it DIY or require pro installation? It will go on 97 & 97 Maxima. Cheaper the better.

Also, what's 1-2/way?

Hey,
Powerbass is a middle of the pack brand. I do carry it in my store as more of a budget option. For 250 bucks, it sounds like a good deal. The Rockford Fosgate you saw on crutchfield is a better amp, but if you buy a amp from there and then go get it installed he might charge you more on the installation since you didnt purchase the products from him. I would go in and ask him how much would he charge if you brought your own amp.

If you do decide to go with the powerbass, you wont be dissapointed. Like I said, its not the best brand out there but their quality is good.

Hi Bayarea,

So I did get it fixed this weekend, but am kinda disappointed with the outcome. I got the Powerbass class a/b amp, and it has been connected to the 8", 4ohms, dual voice coil.. in my bose system i have to turn up the bass more than it was before to hear the subwoofer now.. well the guys who did it were very patient, they had me listen to a 10" JL and 8"JL. am not able to tell the diff.. Shud i be upgrading to a 10" woofer.. i dont want the van to rumble, but I also want to hear the crisp bass from the bass guitar and beats...

Also my friend gave me a bandpass 8" enclosure, in very good condition.. are they good for listening purpose? the guys who installed the sub for me were not big fans of bandpass as they said it exaggerates the bass... ur opinion on this one pls..
thanks

Hi Bayarea,

So I did get it fixed this weekend, but am kinda disappointed with the outcome. I got the Powerbass class a/b amp, and it has been connected to the 8", 4ohms, dual voice coil.. in my bose system i have to turn up the bass more than it was before to hear the subwoofer now.. well the guys who did it were very patient, they had me listen to a 10" JL and 8"JL. am not able to tell the diff.. Shud i be upgrading to a 10" woofer.. i dont want the van to rumble, but I also want to hear the crisp bass from the bass guitar and beats...

Also my friend gave me a bandpass 8" enclosure, in very good condition.. are they good for listening purpose? the guys who installed the sub for me were not big fans of bandpass as they said it exaggerates the bass... ur opinion on this one pls..
thanks

Hey,
If the bass isint enough for your taste, just upgrade the sub to the next bigger size. That should make a noticeable difference.

I personally don't like using bandpass boxes either. I would go with a sealed box.

I have an Amplifier/sub compatability questions. Will this amp work with these subs?

Amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KACX10D/Kenwood-Excelon-KAC-X10D.html?search=KACX10D&tp=115

Subs
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113W3011/Kenwood-KFC-W3011.html?search=3011&tp=111

I have an Amplifier/sub compatability questions. Will this amp work with these subs?

Amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KACX10D/Kenwood-Excelon-KAC-X10D.html?search=KACX10D&tp=115

Subs
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113W3011/Kenwood-KFC-W3011.html?search=3011&tp=111

Hey,
Yes it will.

Hey,
Yes it will.

Thanks for the quick reply, I am new to this whole car stereo business. Just got a new explorer and have come up with this so far.

2 Kenwood KFC-W3011 12in Subs

Kenwood Excelon KAC-X10D Sub Amp

Kenwood Excelon KAC-X40 Speaker Amp

2 Sets of Polk Audio db571 Speakers

I am really torn on a ported box or a sealed box and am also having trouble deciding on a head unit. Will either get the Alpine 9886 or a Kenwood DNX5120 In Dash Nav Unit, just unsure. What do you think?

Thanks for the quick reply, I am new to this whole car stereo business. Just got a new explorer and have come up with this so far.

2 Kenwood KFC-W3011 12in Subs

Kenwood Excelon KAC-X10D Sub Amp

Kenwood Excelon KAC-X40 Speaker Amp

2 Sets of Polk Audio db571 Speakers

I am really torn on a ported box or a sealed box and am also having trouble deciding on a head unit. Will either get the Alpine 9886 or a Kenwood DNX5120 In Dash Nav Unit, just unsure. What do you think?

Hey,
For somone thats new to this industry, you sure know how to pick great items! Although Kenwood makes great prodcuts, when it comes to woofers and amplifiers, I would stick with Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, or JL audio.

The Polk speakers are good.

The two headunits you are comparing are in totally different leagues. If your looking for a regular headunit, then yes the 9886 is a great unit and a good seller in my store. The Kenwood indash navigation is also great. Alpine navigation is a little bit better, but also comes with a higher price tag. More info on exactly what you want and how much you want to spend would be great.

Oops, did not think this post went through so resent, sorry.

Hey,
For somone thats new to this industry, you sure know how to pick great items! Although Kenwood makes great prodcuts, when it comes to woofers and amplifiers, I would stick with Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, or JL audio.

The Polk speakers are good.

The two headunits you are comparing are in totally different leagues. If your looking for a regular headunit, then yes the 9886 is a great unit and a good seller in my store. The Kenwood indash navigation is also great. Alpine navigation is a little bit better, but also comes with a higher price tag. More info on exactly what you want and how much you want to spend would be great.

Price is not too much of an issue, I have already purchased everything that I listed above. Realistically I am just looking for something that will hit pretty decent but wont kill me. I listen to mostly Rap and Rock so I was informed the 12's would be a good way to go. I got in on the deal when they were 38 a piece and after that just slowly went from there waiting on decent deals on the amplifiers and speakers. I have found someone on craigslist who does installs for a pretty fair price from what i think after speaking with best buy, they were going to charge me an arm and a leg. What would you do differently, I am not in a rush to do anything install wise and have no problem returning some items and using some of your suggestions.

Price is not too much of an issue, I have already purchased everything that I listed above. Realistically I am just looking for something that will hit pretty decent but wont kill me. I listen to mostly Rap and Rock so I was informed the 12's would be a good way to go. I got in on the deal when they were 38 a piece and after that just slowly went from there waiting on decent deals on the amplifiers and speakers. I have found someone on craigslist who does installs for a pretty fair price from what i think after speaking with best buy, they were going to charge me an arm and a leg. What would you do differently, I am not in a rush to do anything install wise and have no problem returning some items and using some of your suggestions.

Hey,
As far as installation goes, check your local car audio specialist stores.. whatever you do don't go to the big box stores for installation.

As far as the headunit, if you want to do navigation the Alpine W203 is a great new unit.
Link: http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/series-c.php?category=AV_HU

what u think of Crime Guard 750i5 (http://www.amazon.com/Crime-Guard-keyless-security-display/dp/B0015FY168?tag=slickdeals)

what u think of Crime Guard 750i5 (http://www.amazon.com/Crime-Guard-keyless-security-display/dp/B0015FY168?tag=slickdeals)

Hey,
Thats a good alarm.

If you plan on getting it professionally installed, I would highly recommend you shop around and think about buying it from a store and having it installed by them. That will usually save you money than to buy it from crutchfield than have a store install it. Like I said before, discounts are given on installation if you purchase the product from the store.

i love you bay area!

edit: FIRST!

I would like a reasonable keyless entry for my 97 Ford Taurus. It's an automatic with power locks/windows. I may do a self install depending on the complexity. Any particular brand you recommend for self install? Will a bypass be needed?

TIA

I would like a reasonable keyless entry for my 97 Ford Taurus. It's an automatic with power locks/windows. I may do a self install depending on the complexity. Any particular brand you recommend for self install? Will a bypass be needed?

TIA

Hey,
First of all no bypass is needed for a 97 taurus.

As far as a good one, I would recommend the Viper 211HV.
Link:http://www.viper.com/P-412V/Viper+211hv+1-way+Keyless+Entry+System

If you have never done an install on a alarm, it might be a little confusing for you. I would recommend professional installation.

Bay, Have had a change of heart on the subs that I bought, the cheapo kenwood 12's. I am though going to stick with the Kenwood Excelon KAC-X10D for the amp since I got a ridiculous price on it. I listen to a lot of Rap and drive an 08 Ford Explorer, I really do not want to go overkill, would 1 solid 10in sub do the job?

Bay, Have had a change of heart on the subs that I bought, the cheapo kenwood 12's. I am though going to stick with the Kenwood Excelon KAC-X10D for the amp since I got a ridiculous price on it. I listen to a lot of Rap and drive an 08 Ford Explorer, I really do not want to go overkill, would 1 solid 10in sub do the job?

Hey,
As far as rap and the customers that listen to rap, alot of bass is usually what they want. If thats what your looking for, 1 10" most likely will not do the job unless your getting a T1/T2, W7, 9500 etc.. Which sub were you looking at getting?

Hey,
As far as rap and the customers that listen to rap, alot of bass is usually what they want. If thats what your looking for, 1 10" most likely will not do the job unless your getting a T1/T2, W7, 9500 etc.. Which sub were you looking at getting?

I guess I am a rare case then lol, I was looking at the 10w7 but not sure if my Kenwood KAC-X10D would power it. I was referred to this sub by a friend but not sure what to think.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18354

I am just so worried about drowning out all of the music.

I am also looking into 1 s10L7 in a ported box, my problem is that in my area the ammount of car audio stores is very limited so actually listening to the subs is tough.

I guess I am a rare case then lol, I was looking at the 10w7 but not sure if my Kenwood KAC-X10D would power it. I was referred to this sub by a friend but not sure what to think.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18354

I am just so worried about drowning out all of the music.

I wouldn't recommend a Pioneer sub unless its your only option.
A w7 will most likely drown out the highs unless you are replacing your highs and adding an amplifier to them. L7's are very loud.

I would go with a Rockford Fosgate P3 10" or a Alpine Type R 10" subwoofer in a ported box.
Rockford: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=4&series_id=31&family_id=11&item_id=108287&locale=en_US&p_status=
Alpine:http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SWR-1042D

hey bay,
i have 2008 dodge magnum. i wanted to install remote start( i am thinking why not just get remote start plus security) since i am planning to get security, why not just get all the best features too. like http://www.ehow.com/how_11214_buy-remote-start.html so i wanted to ask what will be my best option. i was looking at viper 5900. and i got pricing on it. brand new about 400 + interface and blah blah. than i got info. on refurb. 299 + interface.

what do you think is the best alarm plus remote start.good range doesn't matter that much. and is refurb good or not. can i buy it online.like ebay or something.

thank you

hey bay,
i have 2008 dodge magnum. i wanted to install remote start( i am thinking why not just get remote start plus security) since i am planning to get security, why not just get all the best features too. like http://www.ehow.com/how_11214_buy-remote-start.html so i wanted to ask what will be my best option. i was looking at viper 5900. and i got pricing on it. brand new about 400 + interface and blah blah. than i got info. on refurb. 299 + interface.

what do you think is the best alarm plus remote start.good range doesn't matter that much. and is refurb good or not. can i buy it online.like ebay or something.

thank you

Hey,
First I want to say that installing alarms on dodge/chrysler vehicles are extremely time consuming. So If you are paying about 400+ interface, thats a good price. We usually charge about $600 at my store. I would go with that store since they are giving you all the parts plus installation for around that price.

Like I said before, you can buy it off ebay but installation charges will be alot more when taking it into a store. Also, when buying it off ebay, you get absolutely NO WARRANTY. Ebay is not an authorized dealer for Viper alarms.

Hey,
First I want to say that installing alarms on dodge/chrysler vehicles are extremely time consuming. So If you are paying about 400+ interface, thats a good price. We usually charge about $600 at my store. I would go with that store since they are giving you all the parts plus installation for around that price.

Like I said before, you can buy it off ebay but installation charges will be alot more when taking it into a store. Also, when buying it off ebay, you get absolutely NO WARRANTY. Ebay is not an authorized dealer for Viper alarms.

and what remote start would you recommend that has all these features in the above link.

and what remote start would you recommend that has all these features in the above link.

Hey,
The Viper 5900 is a great alarm. It has pretty much any feature you could ask for and it has a 1 mile range. I would go for a brand new one as the warranty is longer compared to the refurbished.

Hey,
The Viper 5900 is a great alarm. It has pretty much any feature you could ask for and it has a 1 mile range. I would go for a brand new one as the warranty is longer compared to the refurbished.

is there any other system you can recommend. is there a difference between 5900 or 5901

is there any other system you can recommend. is there a difference between 5900 or 5901

Hey,
Crime guard makes a good remote start/alarm system. Prestige also makes good remote starters and security- model APS997 is a good one.

Link to Prestige:http://www.audiovox.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_cat_carsecurity_prestige.jsp

Link to Crimeguard:http://www.caralarm.com/MyCart/ProductListing/908/Crime_Guard.aspx?i=0

But honestly, I would stick with the Viper. Their quality and warranty cannot be beat.

Hey,
Crime guard makes a good remote start/alarm system. Prestige also makes good remote starters and security- model APS997 is a good one.

Link to Prestige:http://www.audiovox.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_cat_carsecurity_prestige.jsp

Link to Crimeguard:http://www.caralarm.com/MyCart/ProductListing/908/Crime_Guard.aspx?i=0

But honestly, I would stick with the Viper. Their quality and warranty cannot be beat.


http://cgi.ebay.com/VIPER-5900-2-WAY-CAR-ALARM-REMOTE-START-SYSTEM-PAGING_W0QQitemZ120336771570QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Alarms_Security?hash=item120336771570&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 and if i buy from authorised dealer how many years of warranty will i get. the one in link comes with 3 years.

http://cgi.ebay.com/VIPER-5900-2-WAY-CAR-ALARM-REMOTE-START-SYSTEM-PAGING_W0QQitemZ120336771570QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Alarms_Security?hash=item120336771570&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 and if i buy from authorised dealer how many years of warranty will i get. the one in link comes with 3 years.

Hey,
If you buy that alarm for that price and then get it installed professionally, it will come out costing you the same. The bad for you is that if something goes wrong, the shop will tell you to take the alarm back to where you bought it, whereas if you bought it from the shop they will take care of it for you.

Also Viper gives a lifetime warranty, not 3 years. Buy authorized and you get the lifetime warranty!

Anyone know how to disable the safety feature that make everything unaccessible on the Navigation system when the car is moving?

Anyone know how to disable the safety feature that make everything unaccessible on the Navigation system when the car is moving?

Hey,
Are you looking to be able to watch a DVD while not in park?
Also, what year and model is your minivan?

Hey,
First of all no bypass is needed for a 97 taurus.

As far as a good one, I would recommend the Viper 211HV.
Link:http://www.viper.com/P-412V/Viper+211hv+1-way+Keyless+Entry+System

If you have never done an install on a alarm, it might be a little confusing for you. I would recommend professional installation.

I see the Viper website has it for $119 and Best Buy has it with Basic Install for $139. If I don't require a bypass then I should get it for $139 at Best Buy, right? Do you know if this is a good place to get this keyless system installed?

I see the Viper website has it for $119 and Best Buy has it with Basic Install for $139. If I don't require a bypass then I should get it for $139 at Best Buy, right? Do you know if this is a good place to get this keyless system installed?

Hey,
If its $139 at best buy, than thats a very good price.

On the other hand, Best Buy and all the other big box stores (CC, Frys) aren't specialists in this field. Their installers in general aren't the greatest or most experienced (usually these type of installers work for specialty stores like mine where they get paid more). I always get customers coming in paying me to fix what the big box stores messed up.

So I would recommend you find a local specialty store and talk to them, but if you do go to Best Buy i'd watch out.

What should I be looking to pay for a ported box for 2 JL10W1V2's for an 08 Jeep grand cherokee?

I have an acura integra 2000 with an over-sensitive alarm. I think the alarm is 3rd party, but I'm not sure. How do I adjust the sensitivity? It may be as simple as turning a dial, but I don't know where it is. I could bring it to a dealer to check it, but I figure this could be simple, so I want to give it a shot.
Does anyone knows how to get me started with this?
Thanks

What should I be looking to pay for a ported box for 2 JL10W1V2's for an 08 Jeep grand cherokee?

Hey,
For jsut a regular double ported MDF box, it should run you between $55-95 depending on brand and where it was made (Chine, USA).

Let me know what kind of prices you get quoted and ill tell you if its good or not.

I have an acura integra 2000 with an over-sensitive alarm. I think the alarm is 3rd party, but I'm not sure. How do I adjust the sensitivity? It may be as simple as turning a dial, but I don't know where it is. I could bring it to a dealer to check it, but I figure this could be simple, so I want to give it a shot.
Does anyone knows how to get me started with this?
Thanks

Hey,
For most alarms, to reduce sensitivity all you have to do is turn a dial. This should be located under your dash under the steering wheel where your legs would normall be when driving. If you bought it at a store and still have warranty, you should go back and let them do it for you. If not, I would visit any local speciality store and let them do it for you, I wouldnt recommend the dealer as they will probobly charge you an arm and leg.

Hey,
For jsut a regular double ported MDF box, it should run you between $55-95 depending on brand and where it was made (Chine, USA).

Let me know what kind of prices you get quoted and ill tell you if its good or not.

I got quoed 325-350 at a local shop to install all of the following that I already own, plus they will build me a ported carpeted box, think I would get a much better deal than that?

Kenwood DNX-5120 (Have the brackets, ipod cable, and wiring harness already)
2 Sets of Polk DB651s speakers for front and rear doors
Boston Acoustic S35 speakers for dash
Kenwood KAC-X40 4 channel Amp
Kenwood KAC-X10D Sub amp
2 10" JL 10W1V2-4 subs
Rockford Fosgate Dual Amp wiring kit

Thanks!!

I got quoed 325-350 at a local shop to install all of the following that I already own, plus they will build me a ported carpeted box, think I would get a much better deal than that?

Kenwood DNX-5120 (Have the brackets, ipod cable, and wiring harness already)
2 Sets of Polk DB651s speakers for front and rear doors
Boston Acoustic S35 speakers for dash
Kenwood KAC-X40 4 channel Amp
Kenwood KAC-X10D Sub amp
2 10" JL 10W1V2-4 subs
Rockford Fosgate Dual Amp wiring kit

Thanks!!

Hey,
That sounds about right especially since they will be building you a box. Go for it!

Hey,
That sounds about right especially since they will be building you a box. Go for it!

Thanks having it done next weekend, would you recommend a ported or sealed box? I listen to pretty much everything, but mostly rap/sports talk radio.

Thanks having it done next weekend, would you recommend a ported or sealed box? I listen to pretty much everything, but mostly rap/sports talk radio.

Hey,
Its quite simple. If you want louder bass, go ported. If you want deeper bass, go sealed.

Your pick :)

Bay Area:

THANK YOU!!! it's really rare to find someone EXPERIENCED willing to freely donate time to help out a bunch of people trying to buy stuff on the cheap!

I'm looking to get a remote starter installed in my wife's 94 oldsmobile aurora and would love a suggestion on a make/model, retailer, and/or installer... I'm in Southeast Michigan and lack the sufficient tools/technical know-how to do it myself.

Thanks in advance.

so the subs I had recently went out and I'm looking to get a replacement pair.

I have a nice memphis amp (I think its over 1000w, possibly 1200w) and a nice sealed box that fits two 10" subwoofers.

I'm not looking to spend more than $100.00 on a new pair of subwoofers.

Any recommendations? Can I get a decent pair of subs for $100?

I just miss my bass. :(

Thanks in advance!

Bay Area:

THANK YOU!!! it's really rare to find someone EXPERIENCED willing to freely donate time to help out a bunch of people trying to buy stuff on the cheap!

I'm looking to get a remote starter installed in my wife's 94 oldsmobile aurora and would love a suggestion on a make/model, retailer, and/or installer... I'm in Southeast Michigan and lack the sufficient tools/technical know-how to do it myself.

Thanks in advance.

Hey and thanks.
As far as remote starter system, are you also interested in a alarm system? Let me know so that I could recommend models.

so the subs I had recently went out and I'm looking to get a replacement pair.

I have a nice memphis amp (I think its over 1000w, possibly 1200w) and a nice sealed box that fits two 10" subwoofers.

I'm not looking to spend more than $100.00 on a new pair of subwoofers.

Any recommendations? Can I get a decent pair of subs for $100?

I just miss my bass. :(

Thanks in advance!

Hey,
Yes you could get decent subs for about a hundred bucks. I'd go to any local store and ask them for Kicker Comp 10" or Rockford Foagate P1 10". Many times these models go on sale for about 100 bucks a pair. Im not sure of finding any place online, but for sure B&M you could possibly negotiate and get subs to fit your budget!

I found the Viper 5900 remote start with lcd 2 way remote for 187.99. Is that a good deal? is it a good alarm? and how much would it run me to get that installed?

Thanks

I found the Viper 5900 remote start with lcd 2 way remote for 187.99. Is that a good deal? is it a good alarm? and how much would it run me to get that installed?

Thanks

Hey,
Yes thats a very good alarm. Depending on your car, the installation can vary.

Hey,
Yes thats a very good alarm. Depending on your car, the installation can vary.

I have a 99 Infiniti g20t. I bought the car used and the key did not have the chip in it but the car starts so i'm assuming that the chip is hidden somewhere in the car. Will i need a bypass module if the chip is hidden in the car? And how much will it cost for installation on this type of car? I have also been looking at a Scytek 5000Rs-2
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?afepn=5335869999&campid=5335869999&PID=1225267&ViewItem=&item=300274291583&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching

either way i'm going to add glass break sensor and a tilt sensor so which one would you recommend?

Hey,
Yes you could get decent subs for about a hundred bucks. I'd go to any local store and ask them for Kicker Comp 10" or Rockford Foagate P1 10". Many times these models go on sale for about 100 bucks a pair. Im not sure of finding any place online, but for sure B&M you could possibly negotiate and get subs to fit your budget!

so I went to the store, and the guy initially sold me a pair of soundstream 10" subs for $100 (which he claimed was SUCH A GOOD DEAL OMG!", I went home and they wouldn't fit in the box...so I took them back and the guy sold me a pair of diamond audio d1 subs for $120. I was like..."alright, if these are WAY better quality why not fork out the $20"

are these good subs? I know I've at least heard of Diamond Audio...

I have 7 days to take them back for a full refund. I don't think they hit quite as hard as my crapper DHS subs I had that went out....so maybe I'll shop around and see what else I can find. unless you think I should stick with these because it was a hell of a deal? but personally I'm not that impressed....


ps. thanks a lot!

so I went to the store, and the guy initially sold me a pair of soundstream 10" subs for $100 (which he claimed was SUCH A GOOD DEAL OMG!", I went home and they wouldn't fit in the box...so I took them back and the guy sold me a pair of diamond audio d1 subs for $120. I was like..."alright, if these are WAY better quality why not fork out the $20"

are these good subs? I know I've at least heard of Diamond Audio...

I have 7 days to take them back for a full refund. I don't think they hit quite as hard as my crapper DHS subs I had that went out....so maybe I'll shop around and see what else I can find. unless you think I should stick with these because it was a hell of a deal? but personally I'm not that impressed....


ps. thanks a lot!

Hey,
Thats good that you returned the Soundstream subs, but the Diamond subs are good. Diamond makes good quality products. I would stick with them unless another incredibly better deal comes along. If not, dont worry the Diamond subs are good!

I have a 99 Infiniti g20t. I bought the car used and the key did not have the chip in it but the car starts so i'm assuming that the chip is hidden somewhere in the car. Will i need a bypass module if the chip is hidden in the car? And how much will it cost for installation on this type of car? I have also been looking at a Scytek 5000Rs-2
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?afepn=5335869999&campid=5335869999&PID=1225267&ViewItem=&item=300274291583&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching

either way i'm going to add glass break sensor and a tilt sensor so which one would you recommend?

Hey,
No you shouldn't have to buy a bypass to install it. Also, installation will cost around $150 depending on your area.

I would recommend the Viper 5900 over the Scytek because the Scytek remotes are very unreliable and break easily.

Like I said before, try to stay away from ebay. Ebay does not offer you a warranty because they are not authorized dealers for the products being sold. Try to check B&M for a deal with the alarm and installation package from somone that is authorized!

hi bay area,
i have a 1998 Mazda MPV
i have a kenwood head unit, i want new speakers, my budget is $300 for the speakers
PM me with answer

I was wondering instead of buying a new remote for my viper 5900 can i use the remote for the keyless entry that i already had for my car. It is just a basic remote with lock unlock and a panic button.

hi bay area,
i have a 1998 Mazda MPV
i have a kenwood head unit, i want new speakers, my budget is $300 for the speakers
PM me with answer

Hey,
Are you going to get it professionally installed or will you do it yourself? Also, will you be adding an amplifier to them in the future or just leaving them to run off the headunit?

I was wondering instead of buying a new remote for my viper 5900 can i use the remote for the keyless entry that i already had for my car. It is just a basic remote with lock unlock and a panic button.

Hey,
No you cannot use the remote you have that came with the car. They made it to where that only DEI viper remotes are able to pair with the brain of the alarm.

Wow, Kudos on the Nice thread. I have a couple questions if you have the time.
My priorities 1.)remote keyless entry 2.)starter 3.) alarm (not necessary)

1998 mercury Mountaineer xlt v8 pw. locks/wind
It didn't come with remotes, so no idea if it is remote capable. When you insert key into lock and turn 2x all the doors do unlock. no keypad on side either

I really just need keyless entry and a starter would be nice. If the price is close enough I would be up for alarm.

Questions
1.) How can I tell if it already has the keyless "module"(?). I would love to just have to get 2 new/used remotes.

2.) what do you suggest for me? $75-$150 range for all(installed) is my target. if i have to pony up $50 or so more, It isn't a deal breaker. NO frills, just good solid remote with decent range and a good reliable brand. I don't need any of the on screen display stuff. Besides BB and CC we only have 2 car stereo places as listed below..no pep boy.

I shopped around and it seems everybody has to add $50(bb)- $75(tas/cs1) for an extra mod cause of my chipped key. totals runs from 229 to 300 for just car start/ remote keyless entry.
3.)How hard is it to installl my self? I am pretty tech savy(i build computers) Is there a website to help on installs(besides yours)?

OH, PS. we have those stereo shops that always advertise $99- $139 range(installed) Tas electronics http://www.taselectronics.com/ and car stereo one. Are these usually garbage? http://www.carstereo1.com/carstarters.asp
CA500 Long Range Remote Car Starter ON SALE $149.99 Installed Includes all Parts

Hey i was looking at this chrome bezel for my gauges but i wasnt sure what the install process would be like. I have a 99 infiniti g20t. Here is the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Infiniti-G20-99-00-01-02-Aluminum-Gauge-Bezel-DASH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem170276721174QQitemZ170276721174QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Infiniti-G20-1999-2000-2001-Chrome-Style-Gauge-Bezel_W0QQitemZ350137815042QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item350137815042&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

thanks

Wow, Kudos on the Nice thread. I have a couple questions if you have the time.
My priorities 1.)remote keyless entry 2.)starter 3.) alarm (not necessary)

1998 mercury Mountaineer xlt v8 pw. locks/wind
It didn't come with remotes, so no idea if it is remote capable. When you insert key into lock and turn 2x all the doors do unlock. no keypad on side either

I really just need keyless entry and a starter would be nice. If the price is close enough I would be up for alarm.

Questions
1.) How can I tell if it already has the keyless "module"(?). I would love to just have to get 2 new/used remotes.

2.) what do you suggest for me? $75-$150 range for all(installed) is my target. if i have to pony up $50 or so more, It isn't a deal breaker. NO frills, just good solid remote with decent range and a good reliable brand. I don't need any of the on screen display stuff. Besides BB and CC we only have 2 car stereo places as listed below..no pep boy.

I shopped around and it seems everybody has to add $50(bb)- $75(tas/cs1) for an extra mod cause of my chipped key. totals runs from 229 to 300 for just car start/ remote keyless entry.
3.)How hard is it to installl my self? I am pretty tech savy(i build computers) Is there a website to help on installs(besides yours)?

OH, PS. we have those stereo shops that always advertise $99- $139 range(installed) Tas electronics http://www.taselectronics.com/ and car stereo one. Are these usually garbage? http://www.carstereo1.com/carstarters.asp
CA500 Long Range Remote Car Starter ON SALE $149.99 Installed Includes all Parts


Hey,
If you wanted to get 2 new remotes that do the basic unlock/lock, you would have to go to the dealer to get them.

If your budget is 150 bucks, that will not get you a good reliable name brand remote starter. I would suggest a good, name brand keyless entry alarm system which can be done for about $175. Anytime you want to do remote start, it requires a higher end alarm+modules+labor which will be in the 300 dollar range.

Installing car alarms is nothing like working with computers. Computers are very easy to put together (i put mine together no problem first time around). Car alarms usually take somone that went to school or has tremendous amounts of hands on experience. Also, any cut of the wrong wire and you could be looking into major $$ in repairs.

What I would do if i were you is go check out what they have for that price. Get the model numbers and brands and come back and let me know. Ill tell you if its garbage or a excellent deal!

Hi Bay Area,

I need your suggestion on Flip Down DVD player for 2006 Honda Odyssey (sunroof), I came across a Jensen JMV11 flip down DVD player
http://www.6ave.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=AVXJMV111

11" Flip Down LCD Screen
Two Wireless Headphones
Wireless FM Modulator (15 Channel)
Wireless remote control
Built-in DVD player

for $ 398 + 8.6% NY tax. The technician say the installation would cost me around$ 200. Is this a decent DVD player for this price? If so I would like to ask for pricematch in Circuit city for same model as they are offering with free installation. I dont want to spend more than $ 500 for a DVD player.

Hi Bay Area,

I need your suggestion on Flip Down DVD player for 2006 Honda Odyssey (sunroof), I came across a Jensen JMV11 flip down DVD player
http://www.6ave.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=AVXJMV111

11" Flip Down LCD Screen
Two Wireless Headphones
Wireless FM Modulator (15 Channel)
Wireless remote control
Built-in DVD player

for $ 398 + 8.6% NY tax. The technician say the installation would cost me around$ 200. Is this a decent DVD player for this price? If so I would like to ask for pricematch in Circuit city for same model as they are offering with free installation. I dont want to spend more than $ 500 for a DVD player.

Hey,
Jensen products are not bad at all especially for the price. But their are a couple of things that you should keep in mind:

1) Im not sure if that website is authorized to sell Jensen prodcuts. I would make sure that they are authorized dealers that way your guaranteed a class A product and that it is brand new, and that if you ever need warranty services, Jensen will honor it (warrantys are only honored if bought from an authorized dealers)

2)You could price match to CC, but the problem is that CC is having alot of trouble now and they might be closing ALL stores soon. They already closed 155 stores, whose to say the rest wont close down in the near future. Also, CC and all other big box stores arent known to have the best installation. They usually hire installers that are novice because they dont pay much ( the experienced, real good installers usually work for specialty stores because they make more money there). So I would be concerned taking cars for installation from CC. I have fixed many of their mistakes when customers come to me.

Overall, I would go to a local specialty store and ask them if you can get a deal on the same or similar product with installation. They usually give price breaks on installation if product is bought thru them.

One more thing to consider is that if you ever do have problems with your unit, the store will tell you to take it back to where you bought it. That will cost you money for the uninstallation and return shipping to that website. If you bought it from them, they usually change the unit on the spot. Saves you time, headache, and money.

Hey i was looking at this chrome bezel for my gauges but i wasnt sure what the install process would be like. I have a 99 infiniti g20t. Here is the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/In...ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_C...240%3A1318


Also i found the viper 5900 on this website and they offer a 1 yr warranty on it as viper does if you buy it from an authorized dealer so do you think this would be a good deal? The link is

http://audiovideodimension.com/viper-5900-sst-p-1387.html

Thanks

thanks for your response. I checked around. looks like $109 installed for keyless is my best bet since I don't need alarm and only kind of wanted a starter.
This is what the guy at circuit city suggested ( I know cc sux) for $109 installed. That is the cheapest I could find for a dei brand.
DEI Valet Keyless Entry System
Model #: DEI VALET712T

What is your opinion on this one? All I really wanted was keyless entry.

thanks for your response. I checked around. looks like $109 installed for keyless is my best bet since I don't need alarm and only kind of wanted a starter.
This is what the guy at circuit city suggested ( I know cc sux) for $109 installed. That is the cheapest I could find for a dei brand.
DEI Valet Keyless Entry System
Model #: DEI VALET712T

What is your opinion on this one? All I really wanted was keyless entry.

Hey,
Thats a good price and thats a good keyless entry system.

But i must tell you to really re think going to CC for your installation. Im saying this from personal hands on experience from working in this field for years and years: I always get complaints from customers of the job that they recieved from CC. Not only that, but many times they pay me to fix what CC did, thus costing the customer even MORE money. Im not saying they will do a bad job for sure, but from experience I would highly re consider going there. If you can find a shop to do the same job for the same price or even a little bit more, it will be well worth it.

Hey i was looking at this chrome bezel for my gauges but i wasnt sure what the install process would be like. I have a 99 infiniti g20t. Here is the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/In...ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_C...240%3A1318


Also i found the viper 5900 on this website and they offer a 1 yr warranty on it as viper does if you buy it from an authorized dealer so do you think this would be a good deal? The link is

http://audiovideodimension.com/viper-5900-sst-p-1387.html

Thanks

Hey,
The ebay pages you posted don't go through..they say that they are busy.

The viper is a very good price at 179. If they are authorized, than that looks like a good deal. Also you might want to remember that if you buy online and take it to get professionally installed, they might charge you more since you arent buying the product through them. Make sure to find out how much installation will cost before purchasing!

Hey,
Thats a good price and thats a good keyless entry system.

But i must tell you to really re think going to CC for your installation. Im saying this from personal hands on experience from working in this field for years and years: I always get complaints from customers of the job that they recieved from CC. Not only that, but many times they pay me to fix what CC did, thus costing the customer even MORE money. Im not saying they will do a bad job for sure, but from experience I would highly re consider going there. If you can find a shop to do the same job for the same price or even a little bit more, it will be well worth it.

Thanks for the heads up. I will check with one of my local stereo places. Tas electronics claims to have installed over 11,000 car starters so I will check with them. other than CC, BB and two other places pickens are slim here in toledo ohio :mad:

Thanks for the heads up. I will check with one of my local stereo places. Tas electronics claims to have installed over 11,000 car starters so I will check with them. other than CC, BB and two other places pickens are slim here in toledo ohio :mad:

Hey,
Yeah check them out and see what they can offer you..nothing wrong with asking:shake:

If you have any questions just let me know!

Hmm. So this looks enough like the HVAC advice thread that I feel comfortable asking a n00by question.

I'm buying my dad's 2000 Ford Explorer on Saturday. The display on the factory stereo (cassette/AM/FM radio) has been dead for some time. The clock doesn't show, no indication of what station you've tuned in, etc. It's never bothered him so he's never had it fixed and I think he said the dealer wanted to put in a new head unit (is that a thing?) which was more than he wanted to pay.

I found after driving the Explorer for a week that I absolutely depend upon a clock in the vehicle's cabin. I know there are $5 clocks I can buy and stick onto the dashboard but I'd like to get the stereo working if at all possible. I'm also vaguely interested in being able to connect my iPhone/iPod to a direct input (I've had nothing but horrible experiences with the FM tuners) so replacing the stereo isn't out of the question, but I'm not all that wild about taking the Explorer to BB or someplace and getting charged an exorbitant fee to do something that might be quite simple.

So: can anyone recommend a relatively inexpensive, and more importantly, easy to install stereo that I could get to replace the (apparently) burnt-out factory unit? FWIW the one that's in there now plays the radio & tapes just fine. If I could get the display back on I'd be happy using a cassette adapter for my iPhone. I've build computers so I can follow directions to some extent; I've just never tried anything inside a car to date.

Thanks!

Hmm. So this looks enough like the HVAC advice thread that I feel comfortable asking a n00by question.

I'm buying my dad's 2000 Ford Explorer on Saturday. The display on the factory stereo (cassette/AM/FM radio) has been dead for some time. The clock doesn't show, no indication of what station you've tuned in, etc. It's never bothered him so he's never had it fixed and I think he said the dealer wanted to put in a new head unit (is that a thing?) which was more than he wanted to pay.

I found after driving the Explorer for a week that I absolutely depend upon a clock in the vehicle's cabin. I know there are $5 clocks I can buy and stick onto the dashboard but I'd like to get the stereo working if at all possible. I'm also vaguely interested in being able to connect my iPhone/iPod to a direct input (I've had nothing but horrible experiences with the FM tuners) so replacing the stereo isn't out of the question, but I'm not all that wild about taking the Explorer to BB or someplace and getting charged an exorbitant fee to do something that might be quite simple.

So: can anyone recommend a relatively inexpensive, and more importantly, easy to install stereo that I could get to replace the (apparently) burnt-out factory unit? FWIW the one that's in there now plays the radio & tapes just fine. If I could get the display back on I'd be happy using a cassette adapter for my iPhone. I've build computers so I can follow directions to some extent; I've just never tried anything inside a car to date.

Thanks!

Hey,
Im used to hearing people asking me noob questions both on SD and in our real life shop :lol: so dont be afraid to ask!

As far as repairing goes, we do not do any of that so I couldnt help you if you wanted to keep your factory radio.

If you decide to change it, you will get a whole lot of benefits that you wouldnt have had you kept the factory headunit in. First, many of the headunits on the market now come with built in auxilary imputs for simple connection to any mp3 player including the ipod. All you do is go to frys and buy a $3 aux 3.5mm cable and bam, you now have audio from your ipod. If your willing to spend a little bit more, some headunits come with a ipod direct connect cable. That will give you the best sound quality and will charge your ipod at the same time. Also, you control your ipod features directly from the headunit!

If you check around, many local specialty car audio stores usually give free installation if you purchase the headunit thru them. If you decide to do it yourself, its a very simple installation. All you would need is a wiring harness and a dash mounting kit. If you decide to go that route, I can explain to you in more detail what exactly to do. Its a little bit harder than putting a computer together, but its not a install that needs a professional to do!

First of all thanks for all of the help on the car audio. Ended up turning out great. My next step is an alarm. It is a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I do not feel I need remote start, so basically I am looking for around 175-200 installed for a solid reliable alarm to somewhat protect my new system. I have not looked locally yet. I figure I would ask you on a specific brand you would recommend, a specific model would be great too. Thanks!

First of all thanks for all of the help on the car audio. Ended up turning out great. My next step is an alarm. It is a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I do not feel I need remote start, so basically I am looking for around 175-200 installed for a solid reliable alarm to somewhat protect my new system. I have not looked locally yet. I figure I would ask you on a specific brand you would recommend, a specific model would be great too. Thanks!

Hey,
A good reliable alarm sytem with keyless entry is the Viper 350HV or if you want to spend a little more, the Viper 1002.

Link to 350HV:http://viper.com/P-426V/Viper+350hv+1-way+Security+System

Link to 1002:http://viper.com/P-3102V/Viper+1002+1-way+Security+System

Im sure if you look around, you could get the 350HV installed for about 200 bucks.

Hey,
A good reliable alarm sytem with keyless entry is the Viper 350HV or if you want to spend a little more, the Viper 1002.

Link to 350HV:http://viper.com/P-426V/Viper+350hv+1-way+Security+System

Link to 1002:http://viper.com/P-3102V/Viper+1002+1-way+Security+System

Im sure if you look around, you could get the 350HV installed for about 200 bucks.

Thanks for the links, What would a fair price be if I bought elsewhere and brought it into a shop to install for me, basically what would you charge just for the install?

Thanks for the links, What would a fair price be if I bought elsewhere and brought it into a shop to install for me, basically what would you charge just for the install?

Hey,
If somone brought their alarm in for me to install, I would probably charge $110 for your vehicle.

Hey,
Im used to hearing people asking me noob questions both on SD and in our real life shop :lol: so dont be afraid to ask!

As far as repairing goes, we do not do any of that so I couldnt help you if you wanted to keep your factory radio.

If you decide to change it, you will get a whole lot of benefits that you wouldnt have had you kept the factory headunit in. First, many of the headunits on the market now come with built in auxilary imputs for simple connection to any mp3 player including the ipod. All you do is go to frys and buy a $3 aux 3.5mm cable and bam, you now have audio from your ipod. If your willing to spend a little bit more, some headunits come with a ipod direct connect cable. That will give you the best sound quality and will charge your ipod at the same time. Also, you control your ipod features directly from the headunit!

If you check around, many local specialty car audio stores usually give free installation if you purchase the headunit thru them. If you decide to do it yourself, its a very simple installation. All you would need is a wiring harness and a dash mounting kit. If you decide to go that route, I can explain to you in more detail what exactly to do. Its a little bit harder than putting a computer together, but its not a install that needs a professional to do!

You :rock: thanks! I'll go shopping after Christmas and probably come back here to ask for installation help. This is a great start. Thanks again!

You :rock: thanks! I'll go shopping after Christmas and probably come back here to ask for installation help. This is a great start. Thanks again!

Hey,
No problem! Whenever you start shopping for one just tell me what you see or quotes that you get or if you need any recommendations!

Have 2000 Mustang Coupe, no MACH, factory radio with internal issue. Want to replace with new unit.

Going to order from Crutchfield and install myself. Only question is which harness to get - bypass factory amp or use factory amp.

Looking at this unit to replace mine:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113MP338/Kenwood-KDC-MP338.html?showAll=N&tp=5684&tab=other_items&viewAll=True

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

Have 2000 Mustang Coupe, no MACH, factory radio with internal issue. Want to replace with new unit.

Going to order from Crutchfield and install myself. Only question is which harness to get - bypass factory amp or use factory amp.

Looking at this unit to replace mine:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113MP338/Kenwood-KDC-MP338.html?showAll=N&tp=5684&tab=other_items&viewAll=True

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

Hey,
If you dont have the mach system, you shouldnt have an factory amp. If you do, just get the harness that bypasses the factory amp.

Hey,
If you dont have the mach system, you shouldnt have an factory amp. If you do, just get the harness that bypasses the factory amp.

Works for me. Thanks BA!

I just got a gift of keyless entry and the installation of the keyless entry. I don't know anything about this keyless entry other than it has a sticker on the box that reads IEP-2B and that the box is kind of generic with no name brand on it, and that the key fobs have Delta on them, and the module has FCC ID oarrxam2000. What do I have and would you have this installed in your car if it was a gift?

I have powered up bazooka installed rear crew seat area. Id like to make sure ive wired up correct. The bazooka is installed so it turns on and off with comands from cd player via Amp Power control from deck. One wire from the baz is connected 12volt positive battery, one ground, one wire to the deck hooked amp control. I had a problem with first setup and figured maybe this is wrong and should hook up to blue white anntenna control.

I just got a gift of keyless entry and the installation of the keyless entry. I don't know anything about this keyless entry other than it has a sticker on the box that reads IEP-2B and that the box is kind of generic with no name brand on it, and that the key fobs have Delta on them, and the module has FCC ID oarrxam2000. What do I have and would you have this installed in your car if it was a gift?

Hey,
Sounds like it might be a unit bought from the factory? I have never seen a keyless entry system without a brand on it:lol:

I have powered up bazooka installed rear crew seat area. Id like to make sure ive wired up correct. The bazooka is installed so it turns on and off with comands from cd player via Amp Power control from deck. One wire from the baz is connected 12volt positive battery, one ground, one wire to the deck hooked amp control. I had a problem with first setup and figured maybe this is wrong and should hook up to blue white anntenna control.

Hey,
The blue wire on your harness should be a remote wire. Wire that to the remote wire from the bazooka.

Does the antenna blue white supply 12volts constant with key in right position of course, or just to pwr antenna? The unit is walmart $199 urlhasbeenblocked double dinn touchscreen,


http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=7850650

Does the antenna blue white supply 12volts constant with key in right position of course, or just to pwr antenna? The unit is walmart $199 urlhasbeenblocked double dinn touchscreen,


http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=7850650

Hey,
Do not connect the remote wire to the antenna wire on your harness. The power antenna only has power when switching to RADIO mode. Use a white cup and hook the remote wire from the bazooka to the remote wire from the back of your harness (usually a blue wire).

Thats what i hooked up to my bazooka. It works fine but wondering if this is to power up an amp? Ive always assumed pwr should come battery. Darn China instructions lol.


.red-ACC on (+12V)
.Yellow-battery anode(+12V)
.Black ground
.Blue-power Antenna Control Line
.Grey-Amplifier Control Line
.Pink parking line ( i grounded it to black)
.Orange-backsight camera control line

Maybe im worried about nothing. So far i havent had a battery problem like a voltage drain. My boat has this and if hooked up drains all the juice.

Hello can you please help:

1) currently have a Clifford Matrix RS 3.5 installed in my 2005 tacoma truck

2) I purchased a DEI 515ESP backup siren w/ battery.. which wires do I tap into?

3) Is it plug and play from the brain?

Thanks

I'm looking for a remote start/alarm for my 2008 Acura TL. I've been looking at the Viper 5901 and the CompuStar P2WSS-AS.

Would you recommend one or the other?
Is this a difficult install on this car?
What other components are necessary (Immobilizer, etc)?
Are there components that would make the install more plug and play?

Thanks for your help!

Hey,
Sounds like it might be a unit bought from the factory? I have never seen a keyless entry system without a brand on it:lol:


The shop now says that it is a Scytek alarm. I called them because after the keyless entry has been installed, both buttons on the remote lock and unlock the doors. Neither my horn or lights indicate that the system is locked or unlocked. My dome light doesn't come on when the car is unlocked. I hear a clunking sound in my passenger door when I lock and unlock the doors. And this was supposed to be a shop that specializes in car audio and security. These folks were chosen over Best Buy because as we discussed, Best Buy does not specialize in car audio and security. I cannot say at this point that I would recommend this shop to anyone. (Innovative Mobile Audio (http://www.innovative-audio.com/security.html))

Thats what i hooked up to my bazooka. It works fine but wondering if this is to power up an amp? Ive always assumed pwr should come battery. Darn China instructions lol.


.red-ACC on (+12V)
.Yellow-battery anode(+12V)
.Black ground
.Blue-power Antenna Control Line
.Grey-Amplifier Control Line
.Pink parking line ( i grounded it to black)
.Orange-backsight camera control line

Maybe im worried about nothing. So far i havent had a battery problem like a voltage drain. My boat has this and if hooked up drains all the juice.

Hey,
I think what you did is fine. And yes power is from the battery. Your just worrying over nothing as far as I can tell.

I'm looking for a remote start/alarm for my 2008 Acura TL. I've been looking at the Viper 5901 and the CompuStar P2WSS-AS.

Would you recommend one or the other?
Is this a difficult install on this car?
What other components are necessary (Immobilizer, etc)?
Are there components that would make the install more plug and play?

Thanks for your help!

Hey,
1)I personally love that alarm. Its a great, reliable unit.
2)If you have never installed an alarm, then yes it will be very difficult. Alarms are probably the hardest things to install on vehicles, especially these new ones. Any wrong cut of a wire and you could be looking at thousands on electrical repairs.
3)You will need a module because your key has a chip in it. The module tricks the system into thinking that the key is in the ignition and that allows the car to remote start from the remote.
4)There's nothing thats plug n play other than maybe factory units.

I would highly recommend professional installation, especially on a car like yours.

The shop now says that it is a Scytek alarm. I called them because after the keyless entry has been installed, both buttons on the remote lock and unlock the doors. Neither my horn or lights indicate that the system is locked or unlocked. My dome light doesn't come on when the car is unlocked. I hear a clunking sound in my passenger door when I lock and unlock the doors. And this was supposed to be a shop that specializes in car audio and security. These folks were chosen over Best Buy because as we discussed, Best Buy does not specialize in car audio and security. I cannot say at this point that I would recommend this shop to anyone. (Innovative Mobile Audio (http://www.innovative-audio.com/security.html))

Hey,
The lights should flash everytime you arm/disarm the vehicle. Also, the dome light should come on when arming/disarming the vehicle.

As far as the clunking noise, that could mean that your door lock actuator is going out. Take it to a store to be replaced. That should cost you between $65-$95 installed depending on the actuator used.

Hi BayArea,

We just sold our Nissan Xterra and bough a 2006 Honda Pilot 4wd for the kids and to tow the boat. One of the deals I had with the wife was she would let me buy used with low miles (27k) if I agreed to have a DVD player installed to keep the young ones entertained. I have been searching on CC.com and BB.com mostly for overhead models but I think I may have an issue because the truck has a sunroof and a few of the installers (at Circuit City) I asked weren't sure they could do it or said no. The models I had looked at were $600 or so installed.

Can you recommend what I should get (model and/or brand wise) or where I should go to get it put in? I could go to a local small car electronics place but I don't know which are good and which are shady. Also what are your feelings on the head rest models? I could probably go online and buy one then have CC put it in. I'd hate to get cheap looking, non matching headrests though.

I am pretty handy and have wired things before but would rather not destroy her car so I do not think I'd consider installing it myself. If it was my car I'd probably try.

Hi BayArea,

We just sold our Nissan Xterra and bough a 2006 Honda Pilot 4wd for the kids and to tow the boat. One of the deals I had with the wife was she would let me buy used with low miles (27k) if I agreed to have a DVD player installed to keep the young ones entertained. I have been searching on CC.com and BB.com mostly for overhead models but I think I may have an issue because the truck has a sunroof and a few of the installers (at Circuit City) I asked weren't sure they could do it or said no. The models I had looked at were $600 or so installed.

Can you recommend what I should get (model and/or brand wise) or where I should go to get it put in? I could go to a local small car electronics place but I don't know which are good and which are shady. Also what are your feelings on the head rest models? I could probably go online and buy one then have CC put it in. I'd hate to get cheap looking, non matching headrests though.

I am pretty handy and have wired things before but would rather not destroy her car so I do not think I'd consider installing it myself. If it was my car I'd probably try.

Hey,
The first problem is that you went to CC, because that install can be done (its not even that much harder than a car that has no sunroof :lol:)

Audiovox make great overhead monitors. Before I can help you any further, are you looking for a overhead with a built in dvd player or were you going to do an indash or a seperate dvd player(under the seat, glove box etc..?)

Hey,
The first problem is that you went to CC, because that install can be done (its not even that much harder than a car that has no sunroof :lol:)

Audiovox make great overhead monitors. Before I can help you any further, are you looking for a overhead with a built in dvd player or were you going to do an indash or a seperate dvd player(under the seat, glove box etc..?)

I am pretty sure I want one with the built in DVD player in it already. The in dash set up is stock but it has XM with it and I'd rather leave that alone. I wouldn't mind if there was an input for other sources like an ipod or video game system.

I am pretty sure I want one with the built in DVD player in it already. The in dash set up is stock but it has XM with it and I'd rather leave that alone. I wouldn't mind if there was an input for other sources like an ipod or video game system.

Hey,
I forgot to ask what size your looking for?
But in general, Audiovox makes great monitors for the vehicle. Depending on the size, it could run you between $350-$1000 installed.

This is the link to the Audiovox website that shows all their models and accessories. They also are partnered up with Jensen, which also make good products.

http://www.audiovox.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/index.jsp

There are quite a few models, so suggesting one is a little hard without you knowing exactly what you want. Take a look at that website and tell me which models you like and ill be happy to give you a little feedback.

Also, Alpine Electronics make a good overhead thats 10.4" with a built in DVD player and a single headphone. Depending on where you buy it, it could run you around $800-$1000.

This is the link to the Alpine overhead:http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=PKG-RSE2

The 10-12 inch one's look big enough for us. I didn't bother looking at the Jensen one's buit the Audiovox ones look pretty nice. I'll spend some time researching these tomorrow. Thanks again!

Bayarea: can you help??


Hello can you please help:

1) currently have a Clifford Matrix RS.. 3.5 installed in my 2005 tacoma truck

2) I purchased a DEI 515ESP backup siren w/ battery.. which wires do I tap into?

3) Is it plug and play from the brain?

Thanks

Hey,
The lights should flash everytime you arm/disarm the vehicle. Also, the dome light should come on when arming/disarming the vehicle.

As far as the clunking noise, that could mean that your door lock actuator is going out. Take it to a store to be replaced. That should cost you between $65-$95 installed depending on the actuator used.


Turned out to have the Scytek Astra 100. The audio shop uses the alarm and only wires the wires necessary for the keyless entry to work. I went back and had them give me the box that had the siren/horn, the shock sensor, a 4 pin wiring harness, and the manual. I also asked them why the lights did not flash when I locked and unlocked the car, and they said you only get that option when the entire alarm is installed. They wanted $199 to install the alarm when the person who gave this to me as a gift already paid $99.

Link to manual for Astra 100: http://www.offroadtoyz.com/AlarmManuals/ASTRA1006--04-03.pdf

Feel like I am getting screwed by the car audio place. Should have went to Best Buy.

I have a Nissan Sentra S 2008 and wanted a Remote Starter only.
I don't mind having one remote starter and another to open/close doors.
What model do you suggest and is there an easy way of installing one if I've never installed one before. I am a bit handy around cars though.

Thanks.

Bay,
I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris. I'm looking for Remote Keyless Entry only. The car does not have power locks and when I lock my car door with a key the other locks do NOT lock. I was wondering what a good basic system would be and how much it would run me. I'm not too car savvy, so I'd probably be looking at having it professionally installed.
Thanks for all your help!
sz

I have a Nissan Sentra S 2008 and wanted a Remote Starter only.
I don't mind having one remote starter and another to open/close doors.
What model do you suggest and is there an easy way of installing one if I've never installed one before. I am a bit handy around cars though.

Thanks.

Hey,
Check out the Viper 5501. Its a good remote start system that comes with a 2 way LCD paging system and is one mile range.

LINK: http://www.viper.com/P-4702V/Viper+5501+Responder+Lc3+Supercode+Sst+2-way+Remote+Start+System


As far as installation, If you have never done one before it will not be easy. I would recommend professional installation.

Bay,
I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris. I'm looking for Remote Keyless Entry only. The car does not have power locks and when I lock my car door with a key the other locks do NOT lock. I was wondering what a good basic system would be and how much it would run me. I'm not too car savvy, so I'd probably be looking at having it professionally installed.
Thanks for all your help!
sz

Hey,
Not only will you need a keyless entry system, but also actuators for every door. Viper makes good, reliable, and fairly inexpensive keyless entry systems.

LINK to keyless entry:http://www.viper.com/P-412V/Viper+211hv+1-way+Keyless+Entry+System

LINK to actuator: http://electronics.pricegrabber.com/other-miscellaneous/m/19957443/

Look around for a specialty store in your area for pricing on installation and the system.

The alarm should run you about $119+installation (around $75 depending on location). Each actuator should be around $65 installed and up depending on brand and once again location.

Bay,
I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris. I'm looking for Remote Keyless Entry only. The car does not have power locks and when I lock my car door with a key the other locks do NOT lock. I was wondering what a good basic system would be and how much it would run me. I'm not too car savvy, so I'd probably be looking at having it professionally installed.
Thanks for all your help!
sz

Hey,
Not only will you need a keyless entry system, but also actuators for every door. Viper makes good, reliable, and fairly inexpensive keyless entry systems.

LINK to keyless entry:http://www.viper.com/P-412V/Viper+211hv+1-way+Keyless+Entry+System

LINK to actuator: http://electronics.pricegrabber.com/other-miscellaneous/m/19957443/

Look around for a specialty store in your area for pricing on installation and the system.

The alarm should run you about $119+installation (around $75 depending on location). Each actuator should be around $65 installed and up depending on brand and once again location.

Bay,
Thanks for the quick response! I really have no knowledge of how to locate someone who will do an installation reliably and cheaply. Is there some way of doing that, other than word of mouth?
Thanks again,
sz

Bay,
Thanks for the quick response! I really have no knowledge of how to locate someone who will do an installation reliably and cheaply. Is there some way of doing that, other than word of mouth?
Thanks again,
sz

Hey,
A easy way to find a reliable store is to look at what you want to get installed, and on their website they will have a dealer locater. Click that and it will show you the stores within your area that are dealers for that specific product. That means that they have been approved by the manufacturer to sell their products and have proven to be a good store.

Hello, I have a 2001 Pontiac Bonneville, and have a Clifford Alarm. My remote looks like this one.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41DWPdPCD3L._SL500_AA280_.jpg

My remote start has stopped working. Not sure for what reason.

When I attempt to remote start the vehicle, the interior lights turn on and the factory alarm goes off. (beeping horn, flashing lights).

Now when Im sitting in the car, with it unarmed and try to remote start it. It tries to start 2 or 3 times then gives up. No cranking. everything in the car lights up, then all goes back off, then again.

Now if i have my key in the ignition, not turned but just in the ignition, and hit the remote start button, it will start no problem.

A buddy of mine recommended i try reprogramming the remote. I have tried google, but im not sure what model I own and could not find any instructions. The ones i did find say something about a "p" button on the back of the remote, which i dont have on mine.

Any idea's to get my remote start going?

Hello, I have a 2001 Pontiac Bonneville, and have a Clifford Alarm. My remote looks like this one.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41DWPdPCD3L._SL500_AA280_.jpg

My remote start has stopped working. Not sure for what reason.

When I attempt to remote start the vehicle, the interior lights turn on and the factory alarm goes off. (beeping horn, flashing lights).

Now when Im sitting in the car, with it unarmed and try to remote start it. It tries to start 2 or 3 times then gives up. No cranking. everything in the car lights up, then all goes back off, then again.

Now if i have my key in the ignition, not turned but just in the ignition, and hit the remote start button, it will start no problem.

A buddy of mine recommended i try reprogramming the remote. I have tried google, but im not sure what model I own and could not find any instructions. The ones i did find say something about a "p" button on the back of the remote, which i dont have on mine.

Any idea's to get my remote start going?

Hey,
Im almost 100% sure that you have a Clifford RSX 3.5.

This is a very weird problem that I have never encountered, but it could be the module that was installed to allow the car to remote start.