How-to's and Guides

[ywc]

How-to's and Guides
Read this before posting a new thread, so you don't look like a fool!

Guides

Appleyum's Guide to Firefox (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53640)
Do You Need XP Pro? (http://www.slickdeals.net/forums/t52953.html?)
Help with USB related problems (http://www.usbman.com/)
Updating MOBO BIOS in Windows 2K or XP (http://slickdeals.net/forums/t66720.html?)
Different kinds of desktop/laptop memory and which ones are the best for me? (http://forums.slickdeals.net/t98060.html?)


Index of Solved Problems
Check here (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?t=149421) to see what problems have been solved, and the steps taken to solve them. -- Thanks Cycnus

How-to's


Overclocking 101 (http://www.slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18678)
How to back up DVDs for beginners (http://www.slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25407)
How to properly apply thermal compound (http://www.slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14075)
How to manually remove spyware (http://www.slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44759)
How to secure and fix Internet Explorer (http://www.slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44760)


To submit a guide or how-to, reply to this thread with the link.

[drawagoat]

Choosing between the 9600xt or 9800pro?

answer: buy the 9800 pro

(I have seen this asked at least 8 times here. In fact I have asked that question here myself. I thought this might be a quick easy guide for a very nice piece or info.)

[Geeke19]

Hard drive troubleshooting guide (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?p=920586#post920586)

[Geeke19]

Basic/Intermediate HTML Guide (http://forums.slickdeals.net/t78082.html?)

[beowulf7]

Soundproof Your PC (Tutorial from CNet) (http://www.slickdeals.net/forums/t79889.html)

[77Pat]

Build your own system (http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12410887)

[beowulf7]

Build your own system (http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,12410887)
Thanks for that useful link. I will give it a thorough read when I'm ready to buy and assemble the parts. :)

Also, check out this CNet guide (PDF), which might be a little dated, but could still be helpful to computer builders (myself included). :cool:

[redsolar]

Guide to buying a laptop (http://forums.slickdeals.net/t88918.html?): What you need and what you don't. Thanks katiek

[redsolar]

Since Dell stopped shipping Windows XP CDs with their PCs as of recently, here is an internal guide on How to do a clean install on a Dell desktop or laptop PC if you do not have a CD delivered with your PC (http://forums.slickdeals.net/t95421.html?)

[aclays]

Comprehensive List of Video Card Reviews (http://www.videocardforum.com/video_card_reviews.php)

excellent material for any person planning on purchasing a video card :)

[XXnarg]

Delete
(http://slickdeals.net/?sduid=16556&sdtid=44746&sdfid=17&u2=http://support.microsoft.com/kb/q315341/)

[beowulf7]

Buyer's Guide for Mid-Range to High-End Computer Systems (May 2005) (http://forums.slickdeals.net/t103548.html?)

[Anonymouse]

***SEE post #24 on the following page (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=3344839&postcount=24) for the NEW! & IMPROVED! bulletproof "PLAN B" method.
This one is sorta dated now. It still works at many stores, (& is useful to know), but CC is a special case & keeps changing.

I had a Private Message from a fellow slickdealer who asked about "HOW TO" go about doing the PM to SC @ CC on the hard drive deals we have seen over the last few months. (WD2500JBRTL for ~$33 to ~$37 & WD1600JBRTL for ~$15 to ~$23). Since CC is the worst at honoring their own policy on Price Matching, I have prepared a detailed explanation of the process with them in mind. The details are applicable at MANY retailers with a PM policy, CC is just the worst of the lot.

EDIT:Sam's Club is no longer carrying the WD1600JBRTL - PATA, they are carrying the SATA version though, online, so use Wal-Mart as a PM for that model instead.

Sam's CLub is apparently now only offering 120GB, 200GB, 250GB, & 300GB Western Digital models.

Wal-Mart is carrying;
80GB, 160GB, & 250GB in ATA
80GB, 120GB, 160GB, & 250GB in SATA

Wal-Mart 160GB ad (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product_id=3626465)
Wal-Mart 80GB ad (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=3371544)Hey there, I found you on the WD160 for $30 at CompUSA thread, and found your thread to be very informative. As I understand it, you buy the harddrive when its under rebate, then send in the rebates & wait for the sale to end. Then you go back there with a Sams Club PM, & they have to pay you the difference. Do you ever run into difficulty with that, or are the people always very easy to deal with. Also, are you just straightforward about it or do you have to sneak around it (false address/phone #, etc)? Thanks a lot for your time...DO NOT mail in the rebate until all steps are complete, you MAY wish to return the item in question if the PM does NOT go well, & will need the UPC intact. That way, all you are out is time. There is a window of time to do both the PM AND mail in the rebate form/ a return of item if PM does NOT occur. (CC dickweed manager in your area)

It has been my experience, as well as the experience of others, that with the PM ....YMMV. You may get 110% PM as the policy states, or you may just get the matching differnce, DON'T PUSH IT!!! :mad: I have 2 CC stores here, 1 does the PM without batting an eye, the other, gives me no end of grief. CC store managers have a great deal of discretion, more than most big boxes. Now for the facts:

3 things you need to be armed with to shoot down dickwad managers:

1.) BossTone74's Corporate e-mail from CC stating they DO INDEED, PM to SC <-(linky, {thanx allholy1})
(http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=1373741&postcount=7)
2.) Copy of the SC web page showing their "low, low everyday price"

3.) A shelf tag from SC, which SC front desk personwill print out for you if you ask nice like. Have the CSR @ SC hand write current "on-hand" number of units right on the printed shelf tag

3 things you SHOULD do:

1.) Purchase each drive seperately.

2.) Wait a week for the rebate to die "in-store".

3.) Return in the second week after purchase to make the PM, THIS is where all that "stuff" comes in handy, do NOT attempt too many at once & take gift cards.

I have 2 sons & 1 good friend neighbor, (no wisecracks about my lack of friends please)
I purchase each drive seperately, collecting the MIRs and extra receipts at the point of sale. I always d/l a copy of the MIRs off the web as backup.
As I pay for each drive, I use a different checking account, (as 2 have one of my son's names on it as well as mine, & the other has my wife's). That makes for 3 DIFFERENT names on 3 DIFFERENT checking accounts, pointing out the name, address, & telephone to use, to the clerk. The fourth gets paid cash & my neighbor's info.
(You only have 1 checking account you say? CC accepts CASH in lieu of checks, my friend.)
Simply have all the pertainant info on hand, as the MIR SAYS; "rebate good only for name printed on receipt". Only one clerk ever raised a question, & that was when I tried to PM at point of sale instead of waiting & coming back to the CSR for PM instead. Many clerks laugh & will GLADLY help you do this, they KNOW the game & could care less about a LEGITIMATE working of the rebates. Some have PMed successfully after 30 minutes but the majority have had to wait at least until the second week after rebate ending, time enough for the CSR to forget about the rebate, (which is STILL available on the system), & still within the CC return window of 30 days.

I pointed out the word LEGITIMATE, 1.) because I have a hard time spelling it, :bash: 2.) because, according to both THE LAW & CC's OWN CORPORATE POLICY, as long as the MIR addresses are truely different individuals, and the addresses are truely different, not a simple apartment number added to YOUR home which doesn't REALLY have apartments, (I do that for CAMEL ciggarette coupons :P ), then it is perfectly acceptable for an individual to do the shopping for another individual. Since my neighbor, my sons, & I each live in seperate domiciles, are legal adults, & most of the multiple purchases truely DO end up in their's or some other end user's computer eventually, morally & legally it's "ALL GOOD" as they say. Using a work address is a bit sticky as you are the same FAMILY/PERSON. The biggest problem is finding a willing friend who won't find rebate checks in the mailbox a great excuse to go out & get drunk on YOUR money. :eek: I've been known to use MIRs as "money in trade" I get something from someone & pay for it by sending in a rebate in their name. The worst problem I have is one of my sons is in school & likes to cash the rebate checks & spend them on food, which is OK anyway, as we would have bought the food, but makes it HELL keeping track of the rebates. Take time to make a computer notepad just for rebates, enter the name of the store, the item, any ticket bar coding, the MIR address(es) both to-and of the recipiant, contact number in case there is a problem, & the date sent in/ time until returned (6-8 weeks is normal). Check the list periodically to determine WHICH rebates are overdue. Add or remove rebates as they go out or come in. If any are late, make the call & resolve any problems. The notepad allows you to have all the info at your fingertips.

PMing after 1 week, as previously stated, YMMV, if you look for the chikky, tell her she's "cute" or use a similar adjective, (even if she looks like a first cousin to the Bride of Frankenstein-sadly, sexist as hell, but it DOES work), use the CSR's name which is on the little breast tag, get chummy, make the CSR your "FRIEND", they are usually very nice people, & ask for a gift card instead of cash, it generally goes a hellavalot smoother. Make sure they know you shop often there.
This technique is as old as commerce, it's called :harhar: SUKKIN UP! :harhar: Some CSRs are dickweeds and sticklers about checking for active past rebates. Come back at a different shift & feign innercent. Eventually, you will KNOW who & what time & which CC stores to do the PM at. I usually do 2 of 4 PMs on the Wednesday of the 2nd week after the end of the rebate period, & the other 2 on the Friday next. Too many PMs "at once" will set off alarms. In general, most people don't mind if you get a deal, people DO mind if you are looking like a cheat. THEN, they start to get envious & cause problems for smirking eBay reselling dirtbags. Talk to your CSR, does this person LOOK like a "next asssisstant manager" type or just an average Joe/Jill? Use discretion. You don't have to sneak around, it's OK to get a PM for someone else. Feeling guilty makes you LOOK guilty. Accept the legality of what you do & act accordingly. CC SAYS: they PM to competing stores! You are simply holding their feet to the fire. They can rescind the PM policy ANY TIME THEY WISH. They don't, it's good business.

REPEAT!......HERE IS A REALLY GOOD IDEA!!!!!

Email CC corporate & request for a copy of their PM policy vis a vis SC & the like, then you have your OWN e-mail with YOUR name on it. (Several copies have been posted over the last few months, but YOUR name on it always looks better.)
BossTone74's Copy of a typical CC Corporate e-mail on PM policy
(http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=1077846&postcount=21)
Go to the Sam's Club immediately before attempting a PM, get the CSR there to make a printout of the shelf tag, (they can do this easily), SHOWING the regularly listed price & a handwritten note jotted on the shelf ticket about how many are currently IN STOCK!!! (Save it for the NEXT time the deal rolls around, changing ONLY the actual handwritten number in stock on the ticket.)

Gift cards have NO ID on em, take seperate ones for each PM, it makes the idea of getting the PM for someone else, much more plausible. Again, as stated, YMMV (your mileage may vary) as each store is different in managerial style. GOOD LUCK, my friend.

(DISCLAIMER: I do not, nor does slickdeals.net, advocate using FALSE IDs, addresses, or other forms of FRAUD to attempt monitary gains. If you can & do abide by the LEGAL terms of the rebate, you are guiltless of any infraction. Hold your head up high & proudly proclaim, (under your breath, quitely of course), "I have just made a SLICKDEEEEEEEEAL!!!!!!!!!!!")

[Anonymouse]

My backup system is to burn 1 copy of EVERY installation CD of a program I buy. I use backups to install & avoid scratching originals. Use Nero's "verify data" function for backups, it saves a corrupt copy headache later.DEFINITIONS:
ADDRESS (PATH): A numerically described location of a particular bit or group of bits, (byte, cluster, file), a computer OS uses to store, locate, and retrieve a particular piece of information.

DIRECTORY: A graphic depiction of the addresses of every piece of information stored in a Windows OS. Major divisions of the "DIRECTORY" are represented by "FOLDERS", little yellow filing-folder icons having a "Heirarchy" or system of governance comprised of "LEVELS".

In a given "FOLDER" any "SUBFOLDERS" will apear first and individual "FILES" will be shown after them in the display window. To access the "DIRECTORY", right click, either on the "Start" button in the lowest left hand corner of your Desktop screen, or "right click" on the Desktop Icon named "My Computer". In either case, select the "Explore" option. This will open the "WINDOWS EXPLORER", a new screen that is a part of and tied to "Internet Explorer" or IE for short. IE is a "Browser", and will "explore" the world wide web, (Internet). "Windows Explorer" is also a "Browser" but is used to explore the INTERNAL STORAGE of your computer, not the internet.

Once you have the "DIRECTORY" open, look up on the 2nd menu bar on that screen. You will see a button labeled "Folders". Click that button and the "DIRECTORY" or "Windows Explorer" screen will divide itself into left and right panes. In the left pane, locate the heirarchical tree display of folders with small + or - signs immediately in front of the folders. These are used to open or close the folder they are attached to. Clicking on a folder in the left pane will display all the "SUBFOLDERS" and "FILES" contained within that "FOLDER", in the right pane. To view "FILES" contained in any "SUBFOLDER" it is necessary to click to "focus" on the subfolder you wish to look into.

FILE: An single item recognised by a computer to use for processing information of some type. Every file should have a "FILE EXTENTION" name on them such as (dot) .exe / .ini / .bat / .txt / .html / .jpg / .wma etc. These "file extensions" tell the operating system which "PROGRAM" to use to activate that file. You can find out which file extensions are associated with which programs at:
File Extension Lookup (http://filext.com)

FOLDER: A yellow, (Windows OSes), container in a computer filing system, named and holding any number of individual "FILES".

LEVEL: In Windows Filing Systems, there are many "LEVELS" of folders, each can be contained within another "FOLDER" just like a series of Russian Nesting Dolls. In Windows OSes, the practical number of "levels" of "subfolders" that can be "seen" by the OS, is 8. The total number of characters in an entire address or "PATH" name that can be read is 256. Using long folder names can cause a conflict in reading the total address of a deeply buried subfolder or file, the number of characters in the "STRING" will add up to more than 256 even if there are less than 8 subfolder levels. It is advisable to use short decriptors such as "IE" for Internet Explorer when naming files and folders. many setup file names have this characteristic.

PROGRAM: A group of operations, information, commands, and libraries which make up a useful working computer action.

STRING (PATH): For this purpose, the word "STRING" means the ENTIRE address "PATH" name of a location in the Windows Directory. An example of a complete address "String" or "PATH" name on the storage drive D:\ :

D:\Saved Setup Programs\Chat Progs\Clients\Yahoo!\Yahoo! plugins\YahSeek\YahSeek v2.0.13\(here is where the actual YahSeek v2.0.13 setup "FILE" will reside)

As you can see, there are 9 colors, meaning 9 "levels" of folders in the address "PATH", (including the D:\ drive or TOP LEVEL FOLDER), The actual file in red, YahSeek, is buried so deeply, Windows MAY not be able to find it. I suspect it would, the "string" being less than 256 characters, but it MAY NOT! In this case, reducing the number of folders to this:

D:\Saved Setup Programs\Chat Progs\Clients\Yahoo!\Yahoo! plugins\YahSeek v2.0.13\(here is where the actual YahSeek v2.0.13 setup "FILE" will reside) by removing one sublevel, (\YahSeek), would assure that Windows COULD see it.

I often use "save page as" to save the original download page, (for later info lookup), in the same subfolder as the version itself. Microsoft updates is PARTICULARLY notorious for having many subfolders to keep n00bs from copying their pages. The dirtbags caused me no end of trouble when I go to burn a copy of the web page for someone later, some having 5 subfolders or more. It's their own fault, if they hadn't stolen Sun Java and added a buttload of stuff to conceal the fact it was stolen Java, they wouldn't need 3 extra levels of applets to make VM work.

You can rename a web page as you download it, not as easy after it's in the machine, then you have to reopen, click File> "save page as" & and rename it.
Generally the naming string doesn't exceed 6 levels, so windows can see all of them. 8 Levels is BAD, stuff gets invisible and you have to move it uplevel to open it. Time to make a new catagory if that happens.

SUBFOLDER: A "folder" residing inside the address or location of a higher level of "folder" in the "Windows Directory". The term "SUBFOLDER" is relevant to the folder being discussed in context with the NEXT HIGHER LEVEL "FOLDER" only, there can be many levels of folders and subfolders but the term subfolder would become unweildy if more "sub" prefixes were added. e.g. sub-sub-sub-subfolder.I place every downloaded file in it's own subfolder with the name of the program, the version number, and either the download or release date in the folder name.
Example:
Yahoo! messenger v.6.0.1392 (03-12-05)
(the actual name on the setup file inside is msgr6suite.exe )

I then drag & drop the version subfolder into the next higher level folder containing ALL the versions of that program.
Example:
Yahoo!\Yahoo! messenger v.6.0.1392 (03-12-05)

I then drag & drop the higher level program subfolder into a next higher level folder named by catagory.
Example:
Clients\Yahoo!\Yahoo! messenger v.6.0.1392 (03-12-05)
(Clients are the actual program used to chat on a "service" like Yahoo! - Yahoo is a chat SERVICE, & messenger is their official chat CLIENT. There are a lot of "CLIENTS" available for chatting on the internet and several "SERVICES" as well. [IRC, MSN, Eyeball, ICU, JMeeting, AIM etc.])

The folder named Clients may contain several individual subfolders, one for each of the above named chat service "Clients", and each of THOSE may contain several version subfolders as well. To further complicate this discussion, there may be several "UNAUTHORIZED" or unofficial chat "clients" written by someone else, that work on a particular service and they get their OWN seperate subfolders in the "Clients" folder or the Yahoo! folder. Yahoo! has at least 5 different good ones [YahELite, YahZak, Jam, Y!Mlite, YChat] in addition to messenger, the "Official Client". This occurs with almost ALL program groups, there are many "Browsers", [IE, Firefox, Mozilla, Netscape, etc.] "Download Managers" & "FTP Clients" etc.

The last step is to file the main program subfolders, by APPLICATION TYPE, in a "2nd "level" (IMEDIATELY below the TOP LEVEL or "DRIVE" (D:\) level folder. e.g...
\Audio
\Browsers
\Burning Apps
\Chat Progs
\Downloaders
\Emails
\FTP clients
\Games
\Java
\MP3s
\Pictures
\Protection (firewalls, AVs, malware detectors)
\System Hardware (every scrap of info on all my systems, S/N , Manf date, hand made diagrams to locate circuitry or chipsets to identify mobos etc.)
\System Tweaks
\Video Apps
\Windows critical updates
\Zips
that's a short list but you get the idea. Over time, you will develop more FOLDERS and SUBFOLDERS to simplify searches. As long as a logical naming system is used, it quickly becomes fixed in your mind where each KIND OF program would reside. On rare occasions when I can't decide if something like NERO belongs in "Burning Apps" or "Video Apps" I will file it in BOTH places.

Long string look:
C:\Chat Progs\Clients\Yahoo!\Yahoo! messenger v.6.0.1392 (03-12-05)

(time spent filing each download) < or = (Time spent locating it later) Very simple equation

Weigh that equation while thinking about searching through all 1,100GB, (1.1 TB), of information I have stored on just two of my computers. (440GB + 660GB)

[Geeke19]

linux distros that go on floppy disks (http://users.sunet.com.au/%7Etsn/floppy_linux.html)

[beowulf7]

Water-cool your PC (tutorial from CNET.com) (http://forums.slickdeals.net/t130520.html)

[beowulf7]

How to solve Windows system crashes in minutes (http://www.networkworld.com/news/2005/041105-windows-crash.html?t5&story=041105-windows-crash&code=nlciscoalert7635) using WinDbg (http://msdn.microsoft.com/library/default.asp?url=/library/en-us/tools/tools/windbg_debugger.asp), the free Windows debugger.

[MissLeading]

Guide to buying an External Enclosure (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=5842740&postcount=47)

[beowulf7]

Speed up your PC's bootup time (tutorial from CNET.com) (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=1894&t=194336)

[beowulf7]

How to choose a radar detector (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=1894&t=205210) (a Crutchfield Advisor article)

[briang]

backing up your Outlook nickname file (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=1445&t=247653)

[beowulf7]

How to wall-mount a flat-panel TV (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=1894&t=255758) (a Crutchfield Advisor article)

[beowulf7]

GPS Tutorial and Buying Guide (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=1894&t=270338) (a CNET.com article)

[Anonymouse]

September 2006:
CC has now added THIS DISCLAIMER to it's online rebate form. (New look to it as well.)Advertised rebate amount assumes payment of Circuit City's before-rebate advertised price. Circuit City reserves the right to reduce the fulfilled rebate amount based on price adjustments and/or price matches made on qualifying items.
Limit ONE rebate(s) per: customer.It's in seafoam green and hi-lited so you can't claim ignorance, thereby rendering the following "PLAN B" moot.

n00bs, hear me and you shall suceed beyond your wildest dreams.
It takes a little floating capital investment, for a few days/a week, but it's definately worth the time it's in the float.

PMing anything at CC is an art not a task, you MUST finesse the PM.
I have pulled this off AFTER getting refused a few times, I finally found the weak stitching in CC's armoured PM coat AND THEY PUT IT THERE THEMSELVES!

Circuit City SAYS:

"We will price match any competator's offer by 110% if you find a lower offer within 30 days.
The item must be an advertised price and it must be in stock."They try to get out of it by SAYING:"Our price is lower after rebates."In the fine print on all rebate forms it SAYS:One rebate per person, per household, per address, per item purchased."Once you purchase an item at full price and use up the rebate option, Circuit City can NO LONGER use the excuse:
"Our price is lower after rebates."State "Fair Trade" laws make false advertising a punishable offense, CC MUST abide by their price match guarantee if you offer them no way out.

This is how it's done. It takes a little operating money that you can afford to float for a day or so IN ADDITION TO THE PM PRICE!

1.) Stop in at the competing store you wish to price match TO. Make sure they have sufficient numbers IN STOCK to match the number of purchases you wish to price match.

2.) Hit CC & buy a (drive, stick of memory, AGP/PCI-E card, whatever the item is), at FULL PRICE and get the rebate forms.
(If you plan on getting more than 1, purchase each one seperately and get seperate receipts.
- Come armed with the name, address, and telephone number of each intended rebate recipient.
- Use cash, NOT a credit card or check, CC likes to put names on receipts, cash purchases do not get a name on the receipt but, if they ask you for it, do it. This is important later as you want to get CASH BACK, not a gift card or check in the mail for large purchases.
- If the sales clerk asks why you are purchasing them seperately, TELL THEM! You are buying units for different people and they all want a rebate. It's one rebate per person.)

3.) After purchasing each unit you want at full price, THEN go to the CSR desk and politely ask for a price match on each item for ANOTHER UNIT!
Show the receipts and explain since there is ONLY 1 rebate per person, and since each person would like two, you are entitled to a price match on the second item for each purchaser.
- The CSR will look up the item on the web, then call the local store to confirm they are IN STOCK.
- The CSR will give you a nasty look once they realize you have covered ALL THE BASES. (1 per person & IN STOCK on an ADVERTISED sale.)
They will tell you you can't have the rebate forms on the price matched items, you tell them that's ok.

4.) Walk away with your price matched items and go home, fill out the rebate forms downloaded from the web and mail them in with the proper copies of the price matched receipt and any UPC they require.

*****UPDATE***** (09/17/06)
CC is now putting a disclaimer on their rebate forms, including the online downloadable ones, that states;
"Limit 1 rebate(s) or other promotional offer(s) per product type"
They are using this to attempt to deny rebates on PMed items, claiming a PM is a "promotional offer".
IT IS NOT A PROMOTIONAL OFFER! - IT IS A PRICE MATCH!
The difference being, a promotional offer is a limited time offer on a specific item or items and eventually expires.
A Price Match is a guarantee and is in force 24/7 and NEVER expires.
Get it?
LEGALLY, denial of a rebate on the grounds that you received a PM is not lawful, but the effort may be more hassle than you want to endure.

To avoid the "invalid price" rejection attempt, you will now need to;
1.) Purchase the second item at full price as well,
2.) THEN copy the receipt and return to demand a PM under the above stated condition of having already purchased one drive at full price and wanting a PM on the second one.
3.) Send in the FULL PRICE receipt for the PMed item, the one issued at time of sale and before the PM, do not send in the PM receipt showing the new price.
CC issues a new receipt when they PM, and the old one gets stapled to it so you end up with both.
To be safe, >>>COPY THE ORIGINAL RECEIPT BEFORE ATTEMPTING THE PM<<<

Now for the return of your floating capital:
5.) You bought 1 more of the item(s) than you needed in order to get around CC's last ditch effort to prevent PMs.
How to get that investment back?
AFTER you have COPIED THE FULL PRICE RECEIPT ON THE SECOND ITEM, and AFTER you have the PM, THEN you can return the FULL PRICED item(s) on the first receipt,
(the one you used to wave in the asst. reject, er, I mean asst. manager's face to SHUT him up),
in a day or two and get CASH BACK.
If they squawk about different names on the receipt, you CAN take a gift card.
You can just use the gift cards to purchase the NEXT DEAL'S PRICE MATCHED ITEMS, (not the full priced ones or you end up with ANOTHER gift card), and use them up pretty fast.

Now you understand WHY this requires a little floating loot to make it work, you have to buy an extra full priced item and return it after the successful PM. There is the possibility you may have to wait a couple weeks to spend a gift card,
(if that's how you get the floating capital back because you used a credit card or paid by check), on the NEXT DEAL.

This PM is as bullet proof as bank glass, it HAS to work or you have a legitimate cause to file a claim with the Attorney General's office in your state for unfair trade practices. CC does NOT want to have that in their face.

ANY QUESTIONS?????

I have made this work on (7) 250GB WD hard drives, (3) Seagate 200GB hard drives, a bunch of 160GB drives, (3) sticks of 512MB PC3200 & a plethera of routers, DVDs, CD-Rs...a lot of stuff..
Each time it goes exactly as described, they are in a no-win situation if you have confirmed availability of stock and the advertised sale price beforehand. Each time I returned the full price items without a problem within 2 days.

CC tried to disqualify my rebate on the 250GB WD2500JBRTL drives & the 200GB & 160GB Seagates for "invalid price on receipt".
I called up the rebate center and explained the fact they were LEGIT price matches to a local competator - the problem was fixed inside 10 minutes for ALL THREE rebate participants I used. They didn't even blink about the fact I was calling on behalf of the two other people, they just cleared the rebates and they are now approved.
(nice last ditch attempt CC :harhar: )

CC's NEWEST trick is to put some fine print on their cash register receipt/rebate forms that says;Items purchased in a price match will not be eligible for rebates or will have the amount of the price match deducted from the rebate amount.Tricky BASTERDS!

There are a couple things you need to do to prepare for the price match AND get the rebates.
1.) Look at the online rebate form BEFORE going after the PM deal. The online ones are not yet showing this language....probably because people would check it out and decide it wasn't worth the bother and not buy the unit at all.

CC counts on people NOT reading the fine print on the receipt, (or rebate forms issued at time of purchase), so that's where they put it

2.) Be sure to completely read the forms CC issues when you purchase the item. Assure yourself there is no prohibitive language on the receipt/rebate form from the cash register.

This is why I always download and use the forms from the web, it is just easier all around + I HAVE A COPY, in case it comes down to proving something.

[beowulf7]

Graphics Beginners' Guide (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=1894&t=308629) (a Tom's Hardware Guide)

[mar]

n00bs, hear me and you shall suceed beyond your wildest dreams.
It takes a little floating capital investment, for a few days/a week, but it's definately worth the time it's in the float.

PMing anything at CC is an art not a task, you MUST finesse the PM.
I have pulled this off AFTER getting refused a few times, I finally found the weak stitching in CC's armoured PM coat AND THEY PUT IT THERE THEMSELVES!

Circuit City SAYS:
They try to get out of it by SAYING:In the fine print on all rebate forms it SAYS:Once you purchase an item at full price and use up the rebate option, Circuit City can NO LONGER use the excuse:
State "Fair Trade" laws make false advertising a punishable offense, CC MUST abide by their price match guarantee if you offer them no way out.

This is how it's done. It takes a little operating money that you can afford to float for a day or so IN ADDITION TO THE PM PRICE!

1.) Stop in at the competing store you wish to price match TO. Make sure they have sufficient numbers IN STOCK to match the number of purchases you wish to price match.

2.) Hit CC & buy a (drive, stick of memory, AGP/PCI-E card, whatever the item is), at FULL PRICE and get the rebate forms.
(If you plan on getting more than 1, purchase each one seperately and get seperate receipts.
- Come armed with the name, address, and telephone number of each intended rebate recipient.
- Use cash, NOT a credit card or check, CC likes to put names on receipts, cash purchases do not get a name on the receipt but, if they ask you for it, do it. This is important later as you want to get CASH BACK, not a gift card or check in the mail for large purchases.
- If the sales clerk asks why you are purchasing them seperately, TELL THEM! You are buying units for different people and they all want a rebate. It's one rebate per person.)

3.) After purchasing each unit you want at full price, THEN go to the CSR desk and politely ask for a price match on each item for ANOTHER UNIT!
Show the receipts and explain since there is ONLY 1 rebate per person, and since each person would like two, you are entitled to a price match on the second item for each purchaser.
- The CSR will look up the item on the web, then call the local store to confirm they are IN STOCK.
- The CSR will give you a nasty look once they realize you have covered ALL THE BASES. (1 per person & IN STOCK on an ADVERTISED sale.)
They will tell you you can't have the rebate forms on the price matched items, you tell them that's ok.

4.) Walk away with your price matched items and go home, fill out the rebate forms downloaded from the web and mail them in with the proper copies of the price matched receipt and any UPC they require.

Now for the return of your floating capital:
5.) You bought 1 more of the item(s) than you needed in order to get around CC's last ditch effort to prevent PMs.
How to get that investment back?
AFTER you have accomplished the PM, and AFTER you have that PM register receipt for the rebate, THEN you can return the FULL PRICED item(s) on the first receipt,
(the one you used to wave in the asst. reject, er, I mean asst. manager's face to SHUT him up),
in a day or two and get CASH BACK.
If they squawk about different names on the receipt, you CAN take a gift card.
You can just use the gift cards to purchase the NEXT DEAL'S PRICE MATCHED ITEMS, (not the full priced ones or you end up with ANOTHER gift card), and use them up pretty fast.

Now you understand WHY this requires a little floating loot to make it work, you have to buy an extra full priced item and return it after the successful PM. There is the possibility you may have to wait a couple weeks to spend a gift card,
(if that's how you get the floating capital back because you used a credit card or paid by check), on the NEXT DEAL.

This PM is as bullet proof as bank glass, it HAS to work or you have a legitimate cause to file a claim with the Attorney General's office in your state for unfair trade practices. CC does NOT want to have that in their face.

ANY QUESTIONS?????

I have made this work on (7) 250GB WD hard drives, (3) Seagate 200GB hard drives, a bunch of 160GB drives, (3) sticks of 512MB PC3200 & a plethera of routers, DVDs, CD-Rs...a lot of stuff..
Each time it goes exactly as described, they are in a no-win situation if you have confirmed availability of stock and the advertised sale price beforehand. Each time I returned the full price items without a problem within 2 days.

CC tried to disqualify my rebate on the 250GB WD2500JBRTL drives & the 200GB & 160GB Seagates for "invalid price on receipt".
I called up the rebate center and explained the fact they were LEGIT price matches to a local competator - the problem was fixed inside 10 minutes for ALL THREE rebate participants I used. They didn't even blink about the fact I was calling on behalf of the two other people, they just cleared the rebates and they are now approved.
(nice last ditch attempt CC :harhar: )

CC's NEWEST trick is to put some fine print on their cash register receipt/rebate forms that says;Tricky BASTERDS!

There are a couple things you need to do to prepare for the price match AND get the rebates.
1.) Look at the online rebate form BEFORE going after the PM deal. The online ones are not yet showing this language....probably because people would check it out and decide it wasn't worth the bother and not buy the unit at all.

CC counts on people NOT reading the fine print on the receipt, (or rebate forms issued at time of purchase), so that's where they put it

2.) Be sure to completely read the forms CC issues when you purchase the item. Assure yourself there is no prohibitive language on the receipt/rebate form from the cash register.

This is why I always download and use the forms from the web, it is just easier all around + I HAVE A COPY, in case it comes down to proving something.

I have friends visiting the US from other coutries. They werer looking for bargains in CC. Unfortunately the rebate does not accept the foreign country's address. When they asked for PM, the CC told them to buy from the competitor and refused to do the PM.
Do you have suggestion how to get around this?

[adams135]

How to port forward with list of routers and firewalls.

http://www.portforward.com/routers.htm

[Anonymouse]

I have friends visiting the US from other coutries. They werer looking for bargains in CC. Unfortunately the rebate does not accept the foreign country's address. When they asked for PM, the CC told them to buy from the competitor and refused to do the PM.
Do you have suggestion how to get around this?Mailing a check to a foreign country is pretty simple.
Have your friends use THEIR name & YOUR United States address as a drop point for the check and you can then remail the rebate check and send the money on.

As long as their name appears on the check, any bank will cash it, whether in Mozambique or Bhumphuque, Egypt.:lmao:

[Steve R]

CC tried to disqualify my rebate on the 250GB WD2500JBRTL drives & the 200GB & 160GB Seagates for "invalid price on receipt".
I called up the rebate center and explained the fact they were LEGIT price matches to a local competator - the problem was fixed inside 10 minutes for ALL THREE rebate participants I used. They didn't even blink about the fact I was calling on behalf of the two other people, they just cleared the rebates and they are now approved.

Thx for the advice on how to PM to CC. :worship:

CC (their rebate processing company Parago, actually) tried the same thing with me on 5 rebates not involving a Price Match. Even though I subsequently got a letter in the mail from them, I first caught this "scam" through the use of the free rebate tracking on All My Rebates

LINKY http://www.allmyrebates.com/

After talking to the CSR, he fixed all 5 within about 15-20 minutes. :cool: