You last visited: Today at 08:47 AM
|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-01-2012 12:21 AM|
Finally got my car.
2010 Infiniti G37x anniversary edition with premium package and navigation. Certified pre-owned with 53k miles for $22,000 + $300 tax + $65 tags +350 dealer fee (dealer fee was $700 but they would only cut it in half). I did get a free map update for the nav system though. They said that normally costs about $150. Now I'm just hoping I didn't over-pay because they took my first counter offer.
I'm still not completely certain that this is an "anniversary edition" because the couple of articles that I read about that mentions special red leather interior and
ffew body design differences. My interior is tan. I even sent an email to Infiniti and gave them the VIN number and they said it is so I guess I have to believe them. The dealership mentioned nothing about it. The only reason I knew was because the AutoCheck had it listed that way.
|10-26-2012 04:03 PM|
buy a new cheap car
Kia, nissan versa come to mind, if you get stripper model they are not to bad deals. Car's right now strangely over priced! What happened to all rebates. Neighbor just bought $40k dodge durango are you kidding me problem is it will be $20k car very quickly
|10-23-2012 05:54 AM|
Tag & title are OK to pay - that's your license plate & title transfer fees, and those are set by the state.
Like I said there, do NOT rely on CR for auto reports - they're terrrible.
Look at http://www.truedelta.c
|10-22-2012 07:47 PM|
kind of a side note: Consumer Reports rated the Infinity G37 as the Top Pick Sports Sedan but that is based on various things like how fun it is to drive and how good the acceleration is and stuff. I have been trying to find articles about it's mechanical reliability to see if it's anything close to the Acura TL (which Consumer Reports gave a lower overall rating but I am pretty sure it's reliability ratings are much better). Any help? It would be great to find any articles written within the last six months talking about the 2010 or 2011 model years for this car. I'm not a Google ninja so I don't really know how to narrow my searches to fit my criteria
|10-22-2012 04:53 PM|
There are many ways to be eligible for PenFed membership other than being a current or former member of the Armed Services.
Do a Google/Bing search for "how to join pentagon federal credit union" and you will get lots of hits that show you the alternatives.
Here's two fairly inexpensive alternatives (from:http://taxnerd.hubpage
The Pentagon Federal Credit Union is probably the most wide-open credit union nationally in terms of membership. It is, of course, open to all uniformed military personnel. It’s also open to all employees of the federal government and members of military-oriented associations such as Veterans of Foreign Wars. Employees of the American Red Cross are eligible. But anyone in America can also join the credit union simply by joining two (noble) charities: the National Military Family Association or Voices for America’s Troops. Those organizations charge dues of $20 annually and $15 annually, respectively. But they provide the pathway necessary to access the Pentagon Federal Credit Union’s favorable rates.
Note that once you join the organization of your choice you do not need to renew/maintain your membership. You just need to belong to one of the organizations that are "favored" by PenFed at the time you apply for membership, i.e., it's a one-time payment.
Once you become a PenFed member you will need to establish a Share account (savings account) with a minimum deposit of $5.00 - you do not need to put any additional money into the Share account. Again, this is a one time event.
If you have any questions give PenFed a call.
Their CSRs are cordial, knowledgeable and friendly.
|10-22-2012 03:30 PM|
Car price includes what is on the sticker minus what you are getting it for (freight is included on the sticker), tax and usually tags/title fees. Don't get anything else. They might try to throw in a "processing fee" or "dealership fees" just to get more money. If it is $50 or less, you could just pay it. I would negotiate it out.
So negotiated price +
As Jeffbx pointed out, do not get ANYTHING that is not on the sticker.
|10-22-2012 03:11 PM|
|10-15-2012 06:32 AM|
Any fee to watch out for is ANYTHING that's not on the sticker price of the vehicle. The only exceptions are local tax, of course, and finance fees for any loans.
Paperwork fees, acquisition/disposal fees, processing fees, bank fees - ALL of these can (and should) be negotiated away.
|10-13-2012 09:48 AM|
|RUsum1||new direction for this thread. I found an article which brings to attention dealer markups that aren't really necessary. (VIN etching, rust-proofing, paint sealant, fee for alarm installation, fabric protection, extended warranties). I'm hoping people can chip in with other fees to watch out for in the contract so I don't get hosed.|
|10-11-2012 07:34 AM|
1) Dash lights recently went out that show me what gear I'm in and how many miles I've driven
2) The dash was replaced once before I got it causing the odometer to be wrong (last time it was on it showed 202k miles but I have paperwork saying that number is 40k more than the actual mileage)
3) Gas gauge doesn't work (which is why it's important to know how many miles I've driven)
4) Underneath is very very rusty which caused a brake line to recently fail (mechanic said it wouldn't be worth it to keep repairing this car)
5) Once I drive it from my house to somewhere, the car doesn't like to start for me when I try to drive somewhere else. It will eventually start but I'm usually stuck at the place waiting for whatever is wrong to fix itself. No mechanic has been able to diagnose this problem because it doesn't happen when I take it to a shop.
6) Air conditioning makes a pretty loud noise that doesn't sound normal. This is very important living in South Carolina since it's usually 90+ with 90%+ humidity for at least half of the year.
also some stupid, little things that are wrong
7) Trunk release on my key doesn't actually unlatch the trunk. I just hear the motor make a noise but I'm required to use the key to open the trunk
8) Two of the speakers are blown
9) Front, driver window often doesn't like to go down. I have to repeatedly press the button back and forth to eventually get it to roll down
10) the sunroof doesn't act right if I open it all the way. It's fine if I only want to tilt it though.
There are probably other things wrong with it that I'm forgetting.
Technically, I don't need a loan to get a car but I don't want to drain my funds and have nothing left for emergencies. And if I can get a loan under 3% interest, that's nearly like free borrowed money when you consider inflation. I also don't want to just get a car based on cost and then have to worry about problems in a couple of years. I would rather get a somewhat costly car now and drive it for more than a decade than get a cheaper car and have to keep searching for a replacement every four years or so and be mad at the problems I constantly have with the older, cheaper vehicle.
|10-10-2012 08:24 AM|
If you need a loan to buy a used car you should really be driving your old car until the wheels (proverbially) fall off or you have enough cash to buy the car that you want. I'm sorry that's not what you wanted to hear, but this is SD.
P.S. - I used to work in the sub-prime auto loan business, and assuming that you aren't sub prime, a credit union or some sort of promotional deal at the dealer is your best bet (if they even do that on used cars).
|10-10-2012 07:51 AM|
|dealgate||When I make a decision to get a car, I don't talk about it, I just do it. I go that day (as soon as I make a deal) and buy the car. Talking means you are still driving the same POS you hate. Doing it means you are driving another (new/new to you) car. Are you a doer or a talker?|
|10-09-2012 01:42 PM|
|RUsum1||Anyone? I'm growing more and more sick of my car each day.|
|10-06-2012 01:19 PM|
|RUsum1||Can anyone comment on Blue Harbor? A buddy of mine who has a dealer's license says he can get me a 2012 Maxima SV with only 6,000 miles for $24,000. Some quick searches online say this is a $32,000 - $35,000 car so it seems like a great deal.|
|10-05-2012 07:46 AM|
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