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|10-10-2012 04:55 PM|
Also, if you have to resort to deprogramming it to make it stop, you can use an aftermarket receiver in place of what's built into the opener (at that point I'd clip the antenna too). Like this: http://www.homedepot.c
|10-10-2012 03:37 PM|
|PiratePenguin||I really appreciate the replies. Both were very helpful. The opener is a lift master professional line. I think its date stamped '92 which is why i was confused about the lack of dipswitches and assumed rolling code. I still need to give it some more time to prove its not going to open, but if it doesnt then its definitely the motion censor...which is weird because i installed it last year and the door hasnt been an issue till now.|
|10-10-2012 02:54 PM|
The toroids should be located rather close to the opener, and they should be supported (nylon ties work) so they don't pull on the wires. The vibration from the opener motor can make wires weighted down with toroids to come loose or even crack.
Do not try to shield against interference by covering anything with aluminum foil because it's too easy to short the foil to high voltage.
I'd contact both First Alert and the garage door opener maker, both directly and by filing complaints online with the Consumer Products Safety Commission , and indicate that you want the reports to be sent to the manufacturers. Corporate lawyers don't like reports of garage doors closing unexpectedly. Something tells me the opener wasn't made by Stanley, which tended to design its electronics better, while Chamberlain/Alliance/Liftmaster/Sears Kenmore has had problems with their openers getting spooked by false signals. When phoning the garage door opener maker (if it's a Sears Kenmore, call Chamberlain instead, 1-800-528-5880), speak with one of their electronics technicians, not an installer or general technician.
|10-10-2012 02:03 PM|
The reason I advocate erasing all transmitters over removing batteries is that if you do that no rf transmitter should open the door. Also realize, some opener transmitters without dip switches aren't actually rolling code (~'91-94).
|10-10-2012 01:27 PM|
Heres an update. I took my 3 remotes and wireless keypad batteries out. Damn door opened at 3:40 this morning. I woke at 4 and shut it. It opened again at 4:30 and I again went and shut it but this time I unscrewed the motion sensor light bulb. Nearly 12 hours later it has yet to open itself so we shall see.
This is the device I'm talking about:
It was screwed into one of these which my garage door opener plugs into. I really aught to get an electrician out and add a proper plug but thats a different issue.
|10-10-2012 05:18 AM|
|teenbean||Clear the codes. My guess is that a neighbor is using a remote with the same code as you. This happened to my sister.|
|10-09-2012 06:33 PM|
On that note, you might want to try disconnecting the safety sensor. I know many openers will still function with the sensor disconnected (especially older ones), but some may not. I wouldn't be a bad idea to test that the safety sensor and auto reverse on a 2x4 (see manual) function as expected. I've also seen openers where the door binds up mechanically enough that it auto reverses and the owner drives off oblivious (clearly not your problem).
If the safety sensor and wired button are disconnected and the remotes deprogrammed, the only way it would open is if something is very wrong with circuit board in the opener. Surge protectors are always a good idea on garage door openers!
|10-09-2012 06:21 PM|
|larrymoencurly||If the problem still occurs after you follow Dealgate's suggestion to clear the codes and reprogram the remotes, I wouldn't rule out the wall pushbutton or its wiring. I don't mean any security keypad mounted outside but the internal button, especially if the opener is Alliance/Chamberlain/Liftmaster/Sears Kenmore and uses the same wiring for both the button and the optical safety sensor. Because the wiring is shared, the opener distinguishes the signal from each source through different DC voltage levels. Try disconnecting the wires temporarily at the opener, but remember that won't let you close the door the normal way because the optical sensors have to be connected to do that, but maybe it can still be closed if you hold down the remote button continuously.|
|10-09-2012 05:23 PM|
Ive removed the batteries from all my remotes except my homelink remote on my cars mirror because its gone up and down without my car home...so we will see if it activates.
I think ill remove the light socket sensor next if it still goes and then take the suggestion for the wall switch button afterwards.
|10-09-2012 02:09 PM|
|10-09-2012 01:43 PM|
Now that you mention it, I remember having a wired button that didn't disengage completely after the button was pressed. I had some random openings because of it. I took it apart and cleaned it, especially around the edges of the button. There was dirt / gunk that kept the button from fully releasing.
|10-09-2012 01:29 PM|
Try disconnecting the wired button inside the garage, it's possible there's a short.
Try deprogramming the opener (erase all transmitters) and don't reprogram for a few days.
|10-09-2012 11:04 AM|
Do you mean you have a motion sensor light socket in the opener itself, where a normal bulb would go or a separate light apart from the opener. This could be your problem. Something tripping the sensor could cause the opener to activate. Even if its a separate light socket on the same circuit, the initial power spike could trip the opener.
I would disconnect this sensor and see what happens.
As a side note...I have an outside sensor light on the same circuit as a double flourescent fixture. If I turn on the fixture the outside light will come on and has to be reset.
|10-09-2012 10:26 AM|
|dealsnodeals||change the code at the unt some you unplug some use dp swtches|
|10-09-2012 10:08 AM|
|Hoolagain||When I was in the army, we had so many avionics on board our helicopter it seemed to trigger some openers as we'd fly overhead :0)|
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