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|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-31-2013 02:59 PM|
|03-29-2013 11:14 PM|
can you explain more?
i need to tourq something at 14ft lbs. if i choose this setting will it stop at 14 lbs? or keep going or make a noise or something?
and what type of batteries does it need? AA? AAA?
|02-17-2013 09:00 PM|
A little update after I did some research on these as I wasn't familiar with this exact model.
I was surprised, these aren't actually digital torque wrenches. They're over glorified clicker wrenches. There is no strain gauge employed, at all, on these units. Highly disappointing. I would say their sales description might be a little misleading, or actually my fault for assume a digital torque wrench meant, a digital torque wrench. This only sets digitally, the torque is still accomplished with using a spring and detented ball, just like this Craftsman wrench for $22 less. And now you get to keep watch batteries on hand just to use a clicker torque wrench with no real gain! Pass!
|02-17-2013 01:19 AM|
Don't know if this is the right location to post this, but here are possible alternatives if a Digital Torque Wrench is not your thing, and you prefer a clicker:
$33.99 (Regular price $79.99)
|02-14-2013 05:00 PM|
The better resistance-/clicker-type wrenches really don't change that much in most cases in my experience from whatever they are off to begin with in any short period of time unless there's some problem. But if you're doing something critical then you obviously do need proper calibration.
The better electronic wrenches do in fact deliver greater accuracy as well as greater precision. For example, a CDI wrench that I have is rated at +/- 1% from 20 - 100% of scale, CW and CCW, at 0.1 increments from 25 to 250 ft. lbs. You're not getting close to that with anything else. They and the dial-type both work on the same basis as do the split beam, i.e., torsion versus resistance in the case of the click. They simply display the information in different ways and, in the case of digital, employ electronic sensors. But again we're not talking about the cheaper Sears digital wrenches as here.
|02-13-2013 01:43 PM|
|Interex||Got my torque wrench today. Looks and feels great! Now to get some batteries and test it out.|
|02-13-2013 08:12 AM|
|Interex||EDIT - points fixed themselves.|
|02-13-2013 07:39 AM|
|Charminar||In for one, ordered yesterday, before the deal is dead, thanks.|
|02-13-2013 04:20 AM|
|02-13-2013 12:31 AM|
Please keep in mind this wrench measure just clockwise direction!
For some rear cases like left thread and some other it won't work.
|02-13-2013 12:15 AM|
That may be true at the very low end but not really true universally. My better digital wrenches are far more accurate and have much greater precision than any of the rest of the dial, clicker, and beam wrenches. But then they are designed to be and were a lot more expensive.
Also, you have more than one type of accuracy involved - instrument and practical. That is, the accuracy of the reading of the tool usually is less significant and somewhat independent of the accuracy in actual use in applying torque to a fastener.
Beam type wrenches generally aren't that accurate given fairly low-precision scales and difficulty in using them consistently at a practical level. But they are cheap and durable with nothing to break and they'll roughly return the same result over time/with use, so they work pretty well for higher-range things like wheels. Not so great for a series of bearing caps where actual values are critical and required tolerances are lower and consistency is more important. They're also kind of hard to use in some applications since you need to be able to see the scale straight on in order to see the value. Looking at an angle introduces a lot of error. Also at higher values the cheap ones start to have error due to the handle flexing relative to the needle and people use all kinds of bad techniques (bouncing, etc.) to try to get them to hit high numbers. But again for something like wheel you don't really need to be that accurate anyway so they're not a bad choice.
Clicker-type wrenches are better in terms of accuracy (assuming a decent wrench and the calibration is good anyway) and generally yield better practical results for most people since they break over at the same set mark. You have to have pretty bad technique or actively try to miss your setting when using them even where you can't see the scale. That's why most assembly operations use these types of wrenches, They can be calibrated, set, locked, and handed off to a monkey and they'll end up fairly consistently actually delivering N torque +/- whatever instrument error is to N fasteners x 1,000. The down side is that the springs, pawl, and other parts wear and most don't maintain accuracy as well as some other types so they need to be calibrated to maintain instrument accuracy. That's what you're paying for with the better tools (beyond brand names) - better quality, better QC, more durable components, springs that are more consistent, factory calibration, etc.
Dial-type tend to be very accurate at an instrument level but again without a break/stop, they require more in the way of technique in order to yield good practical results. That is, even with a beep/light, you can come up more short/over your mark by percentage of error that's greater than instrument accuracy fairly easily.
Higher-end electronic wrenches do all kinds of tricks. I can get precision down to 2 decimal points, have it alarm as I approach a value and/or some limit range above/below, record the actual application curves, set steps, get the deviation across a series of fasteners, etc., etc.
But that's not really what w're talking about with something like this Sears wrench. Basically, all they've done is add a display and some sensors to a regular old wrench. Assuming that the sensors that they use are decent, then the displayed instrument accuracy should be reasonably good. But it's not going to be any better than the wrench that it's built on (possibly worse given variance between sensor/wrench). My main concern would be more along the lines of reliability versus accuracy. You're kind of just making a simple tool more complicated and dependent on that display. It may show readings at a greater level of precision, but you're not really getting any better accuracy. Mostly just introducing more things to go wrong with it.
|02-12-2013 10:55 PM|
|dphamt||how come the sale price isn't shown in the cart? it shows 99.99 for me. anybody else have the same problem?|
|02-12-2013 07:17 PM|
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