You last visited: Today at 04:48 AM
|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-02-2013 03:39 PM|
|03-02-2013 02:48 PM|
so would this be okay then, minus the case? i'm worried if the motherboard / gfx card / cpu i've selected won't work together.
edit: cancel what i said about the graphics card, would this motherboard work with that build to replace the AS Rock?
|03-01-2013 11:35 AM|
sli is ths most overrated genius marketing move. It puts a lot more strain on your cpu and motherboard which can cause all kinds of problems. It's better to buy a higher tier single gfx card than sli. overclocking is a way better idea. I highly suggest you start doing it. It takes some time to learn, but ti's a tech life long skill. With overclocking, $200 cpus perform like $700 ones. anyone seroius about bang/buck performance, overclocks. It soudns riskier than it really is.
you'll get more bang/buck spending more on the gfx card vs the cpu.
for my builds, which are a bit cheaper than yours
I get a budget amd card + motherboard combo thatis overclockable
~150-200 videocard hot deal (whatever has performance)
hotdeal on 8gb memory.
Get a quality case, and cpu 600w is fine. quality case and cpu can be used with multiple builds. I won't touch a case that has smaller than 120mm fan mounts; those are too noisy.
for $800, u can squeeze intel in maybe. intel is killing amd right now,
|02-28-2013 06:44 PM|
Thanks for the suggestion you guys. I'm looking through all of these!
As far as overclocking and SLI goes, SLI might be a possibility, but that's a small chance. I don't plan on overclocking.
|02-26-2013 10:44 AM|
Anything released in the last year with good trim support shouldn't have this issue. i've had my Crucial M4 for a little over a year, and i haven't experienced any slowdown at all.
Its got over 7500 hours powered on, as i don't usually shut down my computers.
Still faster than any of my WD Black Drives that are in my system. i can't see how something that exceeds SATA II speeds even with decay will be slower than something that doesn't come close to maxing SATA II speeds.
|02-26-2013 10:04 AM|
|02-26-2013 09:26 AM|
Many folks have found that with or without TRIM SSDs slow down it depends on usage, laptop hard drives are slower and there are few laptops that support SATA III so your biggest improvement with a SSD is comparing a laptop hard drive to a SSD, given that laptops get moved while running and SSDs have no moving parts, laptops use batteries, SSDs consume less power they have lots of Pluses.
But with a desktop you can have a very fast hard drive that will be working just as well after 3 years whereas the SSD will be slowing down and have other issues.
This is not to say that everyone will, I tend to download and move a lot of files but a quick web search shows quite a few people with the same opinion, I limited my search to 1 yr since many older SSDs had real issues with slowdowns.
|02-25-2013 10:15 PM|
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R for $49.99 after rebate.
CPU: AMD FX-6300 for $139.99.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3 for $104.99.
Ram: Any regular ram (preferably samsung) for $40-50.
HDD: Seagate barracuda 1TB for $79.99.
GPU: MSI 7870 for $219.99 after rebate.
CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus for $23.99.
PSU: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ bronze for $74.99.
Total comes out about $744 ish at newegg, though you'd still need an OS. Amd's piledriver chips are solid for gaming, despite what you hear from the fanboys .
|02-25-2013 03:25 PM|
any SSD that supports trim doesn't see decay as severe as the equivalent spin disk drive...
And why is there a significant difference in performance for laptops compared to desktops on SSD?
|02-25-2013 12:06 PM|
|Ps3Rules||with an SSD + Win8, startup times are under 10 seconds for me. I hear the 830 is a lot better than the 840 so if you can find an 830 get that. Or get the 840 PRO instead, since it's comparable to the 830. Although a PRO isn't going to be as cheap as the 830/840.|
|02-24-2013 10:30 PM|
1. CPU: Stick to Intel. Don't pay the premium for an i7 since most games wont take advantage of threading which is the only real advantage to an i7. So your choice really boils down to a 2500k or a 3570k. You should pay the premium for a K processor because its better to have the option to overclock even if you do it now.
2. GPU: Given you are going for bang for buck your only real choice is an ATi 7850 or 7870. Those cards are really just crazy good. The only worthy Nvidia cards are the high end ones which you cant afford given your budget.
3. Motherboard: Too many choices and features to mention here so I will just recommend the Gigabyte D3h. Dirt cheap and has almost everything you need.. I personally would go with the UD5H but that might push up your budget.
4. Hard drive: While its true that an SSD will not do much to your gaming experience since it only affects load times.. please dont listen to the clown above who said SSDs are not worth it for desktops. My god he needs a helmet! Your budget would allow for a solid 120 GB SSD. I would recommend the Samsung 840, or the Crucial M4.
5. Power Supply: Dont skimp on the PSU. Something around ~700w from Seasonic or Corsair.
Good luck with your shopping and feel free to message if you need any help.
|02-24-2013 08:14 PM|
|Ps3Rules||OP do you care about having the option to overclock and would you ever want to sli/crossfire? Be careful by which motherboard you choose, a lot of these cheap ones don't support either.|
|02-24-2013 07:49 PM|
Here's an i5 Fry's combo:
Also, always remember, unless your running an extremely high resolution, or going with 2 high end cards or something... i3 > i5 if you put the price difference toward greater graphics.
|02-24-2013 07:34 PM|
RAM: If you don't need everything IMMEDIATELY, RAM has been as low as $20 AR for 8gb, hell there was a 16gb set for under $40 no rebate back in December I think.
PSU: For PSU definitely look out for one of the CX600s for under $40 AR. There are generally other nice brands you can find for $50 AR monthly or every two months as well.
Case: For a great cheap case I honestly have to recommend a HAF 912. Can be had for under $50-60 easy I'm pretty sure.
I count under $180 at this point.
Motherboard and CPU: If you don't plan on using duel video cards, hold out for Fry's combos. An i5-3570k ideally, but if you went with an i3-3220 instead and put the difference toward a better video card you'd be better off for gaming (if that is your thing.) You'll be under $300 for an i5 + mb, or under $200 with an i3 + mb (for sure I think right?)
Stock cooler will be fine if you go with the i3, or a very mild overclock on the i5 (under 10%.)
Cheap <$20 DVD drive...
We're at either $400 or $500 (whether we went i3 or i5) at this point and all we need is graphics. I say hold out for ~GTX670 after the 700 series is released for the $300 or so range.
OS is what really puts the price up, if you're a student get it through your college, if not good luck.. I think I got Win7 around $70 this time last year with a newegg coupon code.
|02-24-2013 02:30 PM|
CPU: i5-3570k ( $220)
RAM: Corsair 8gb DDR-3 1600 ($50)
GPU: EVGA SC GTX 660 ($200 on sale at Microcenter)
HDD: 1TB HDD ($90)
MB: Asrock Z77 ($125)
OS: Win8/ Win 7 ($90)
PSU: Seasonic 650watt ($90)
Case: Idk, whatever you think looks sweet ($100)
Total: around $950
You can bring that down to $800 by:
- getting a non-k i5 for $20 less
- Corsair CX600 can be had for $40 less
- Cheap case- save $30 at least
- If you already have an OS, skip that expense, save $90
Of course, you can find a lot of this stuff on sale if you look around. I'm just providing the typical prices.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|