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-   -   12Ft Die Hard Gold 175A 8 Gauge Car Booster Cable $9.99 + Free Store Pickup (http://slickdeals.net/f/5866124-12ft-die-hard-gold-175a-8-gauge-car-booster-cable-9-99-free-store-pickup)

Anime 02-19-2013 10:49 PM

12Ft Die Hard Gold 175A 8 Gauge Car Booster Cable $9.99 + Free Store Pickup
 
65533 Attachment(s)
SEARS has the Die Hard 12ft 175A 8 Gauge Booster Cables [sears.com] for $9.99 (Reg $34.99) + tax.

Add to cart, final price should show as just $8.99 with extra 10% discount through 7AM CST 2/20/2013.


In-store pickup is free, or shipping is free with SYW Max or trial.

Decent quality cables to throw in the car for $10, better than nothing. Definitely better than being stranded, having people in other cars willing to give you a jump, but no cables.


Product Description

8 Gauge Booster Cable Helps You Jump Start Your Car

12ft. Booster Cable from Die Hard provides you with what you need to jump start your car or truck. When your battery needs a jump start, you want to have a booster cable that you can rely on to get your vehicle started and you back on the road. This yellow and black booster cable has 8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire that is combined with a terminal biting jaw design to provide excellent quality and performance.

8 Gauge Booster Cable is 175 amp rated and 12 feet long for maximum convenience. It performs well in front-to-front hookups for vehicle jump starting. No matter what the weather is like, this booster cable can help get your vehicle up and running again. The biting jaw design features a copper plated jaw that is designed to offer you the best conductivity and power transfer. The terminal biting clamps also include a heavy duty spring to give you vise-like gripping power.


• 12ft. Booster Cable is a great length for front-to-front hookup availability.
• The standard amp handling power easily handles 175 amps.
• Terminal biting clamps and heavy duty spring are combined for a vice-like grip.
• Jaws are copper plated to offer the best conductivity and power transfer available.
• Polarity identification is easy with these color coded cables so that you can quickly get the job done.
• Vinyl coated clamps are protected against rust and corrosion and designed to last.
• The 8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire provides excellent performance every time.

DJ3xclusive 02-19-2013 10:49 PM

12Ft Die Hard Gold 175A 8 Gauge Car Booster Cable $9 + Free Store Pickup
 
2 Attachment(s)
Sears has 12Ft Die Hard Gold 175A 8 Gauge Car Booster Cable for $8.99 with free store pick-up. Please add item to cart to see discounted price. Thanks Anime

Please note, additional 10% off discount is valid until 02/20/13 7AM CST.

wikipost 02-19-2013 10:49 PM

This post can and should be edited by users like you :)
 
BEWARE: These must be picked up in the auto center. While "Merchandize pickup" is most likely open until 9PM Mon-Sat and 6PM Sun, auto center pickup may close at 6PM and may be closed on Sun...

Also, as many have stated, these are thin (the larger the gauge number, the thinner the wire), short, and not copper, so I would consider these only if these are all you can afford. Still definitely better than nothing in an emergency.

One more beware: my Sears Auto doesn't set the item aside for you. They just grab it off the rack when you get there. So, if the item sells out, you're out of luck. They give you back the money, but can't give back your time.

In general, if you try to pick up something in the regular Merchandise pickup area, they may not even show the order. If that happens, try the auto-center. Happened to me on a hand-held 12-volt air pump used to blow up air mattresses - I did not even think it was an auto-center item.

ogre177age 02-19-2013 10:50 PM

I see $31.49. Is it not live yet?

Cryptic_Phoenix 02-19-2013 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ogre177age (Post 57700718)
I see $31.49. Is it not live yet?

You need to add item to cart to see the price dropped to $8.99.

ogre177age 02-19-2013 10:56 PM

got it Thanks!

microkelvin 02-19-2013 10:58 PM

i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.

andriykoua 02-19-2013 11:00 PM

is this a good price?

p.s. bought one as it appears to be a good price. don't need it, but good to have in the car.

cockadoodle 02-19-2013 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andriykoua (Post 57700822)
is this a good price?

p.s. bought one as it appears to be a good price. don't need it, but good to have in the car.

They are better than nothing. On a really dead battery, you may have to wait a few minutes for the donor vehicle to charge up the battery to get the car to start.

vulches 02-19-2013 11:19 PM

Meh... seems other cables with the same specs go for $10-15 elsewhere.

SurfsUP8 02-19-2013 11:31 PM

Thanks. Just to be safe than sorry.

xxxHolic 02-19-2013 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57700804)
i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.

Why??

stephenson121588 02-19-2013 11:33 PM

Thanks got one to throw in trunk

microkelvin 02-19-2013 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxxHolic (Post 57701056)
Why??

because they didnt expect any shopping devils to visit them. what they wanted to see were those women or elders so they can rip them off.

midwestmisery 02-19-2013 11:37 PM

Thanks, $9.50 shipped with SYWR.

uEih 02-19-2013 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57701070)
because they didnt expect any shopping devils to visit them. what they wanted to see were those women or elders so they can rip them off.

I didn't even know the auto center has a pick up.. I thought there was only one store pickup place.

CompassionateVeg 02-19-2013 11:37 PM

8 gauge for less then 10 bucks is a decent price. I grabbed 2 pairs. Free shipping, great! Thanks!

cipao 02-19-2013 11:39 PM

Got your mean. Thanks for taking time to share this deal.

Dbunk 02-19-2013 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viperkillertt (Post 57701080)
8 gauge for less then 10 bucks is a decent price. I grabbed 2 pairs. Free shipping, great! Thanks!

Totally agree.

Thanks OP, in 4 1

fcastro 02-19-2013 11:51 PM

Great Deal!

jason68031 02-19-2013 11:52 PM

How long will sears hold this if I select in store pickup?

damnthatsadeal 02-20-2013 12:03 AM

Meh, last deal was $15. Aluminum wires and 8 gauge is just the bare minimum. No thanks. I'll wait for deal on a copper wire. This is the stuff you don't want to skimp out on.

luvzmeadeal 02-20-2013 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by damnthatsadeal (Post 57701238)
Meh, last deal was $15. Aluminum wires and 8 gauge is just the bare minimum. No thanks. I'll wait for deal on a copper wire. This is the stuff you don't want to skimp out on.

Good point

Scott586 02-20-2013 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cockadoodle (Post 57700878)
They are better than nothing. On a really dead battery, you may have to wait a few minutes for the donor vehicle to charge up the battery to get the car to start.

So is this delay a function of these low quality cables, or just an unsolicited general battery jumping tip that applies to any jumper cables?

damnthatsadeal 02-20-2013 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luvzmeadeal (Post 57701272)
Good point

Yea I mean if it was a thicker gauge aluminum, I might feel more comfortable.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott586 (Post 57701300)
So is this delay a function of these low quality cables, or just an unsolicited general battery jumping tip that applies to any jumper cables?

Both, actually. The purpose is to have some juice in the dead battery in order to assist the jump start so that you're not limited to the amount of power you can draw through thinner cables and lower conducting material.

newbie_05 02-20-2013 12:18 AM

Needed those, so pulled the trigger. Thanks OP! Repped!!

whocares13 02-20-2013 12:31 AM

Thanks. Got 1

Core2Quad 02-20-2013 12:34 AM

Got 2 pairs, great deal considering I had a lands end gift card I got for 20% off. Makes this $7.2!

Chiral888 02-20-2013 12:34 AM

Thanks OP...ended up getting one! @ this price you can't go wrong.

jjennyr 02-20-2013 12:44 AM

bought some thanks

freeflight 02-20-2013 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by damnthatsadeal (Post 57701238)
Meh, last deal was $15. Aluminum wires and 8 gauge is just the bare minimum. No thanks. I'll wait for deal on a copper wire. This is the stuff you don't want to skimp out on.

Good point

jaysquared 02-20-2013 01:03 AM

In for 2! Great deal thanks op!

ditbu13oi 02-20-2013 01:03 AM

ShopDiscover for another 5%

junhao123 02-20-2013 01:03 AM

Waited too long. OOS shipping
Still available for pickup

garycoleman 02-20-2013 01:09 AM

oh wait this is has aluminum wires? what a scam

ReverseHandedJO 02-20-2013 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garycoleman (Post 57701524)
oh wait this is has aluminum wires? what a scam

oh nos!

K6-2 02-20-2013 01:15 AM

"scam" -lol- These work, and are better than what you usually see on special.

Despite that, will wait for >>8' and copper.

paradoxum 02-20-2013 01:58 AM

Just some thing to consider:

- The cables are only 12 feet - if a newer car is completely dead in the garage you usually can't even put it into Neutral to roll the car back (since the electronic lockout won't let you shift gears - I'm not a car guy so I don't know a way around this except for maybe using a booster battery), so forget trying to jump it if you can't get another car in front or next to the dead car with these cables
- The cables are aluminum instead of copper, if you are trying starts in colder weather or have a more demanding engine you may not be able to pull enough current
- The cables are only 8 gauge. This is sufficient for a start, but the cables will get warm with just one attempt. If you try to crank 5 or 6 times you better wear gloves as they may be very hot.

If you're going to throw these in your trunk it will add weight to your car (yes a very small amount), but with gas at $810/gallon here in SoCal give or take no need to haul useless crap. If you can't see yourself being able to start your car with these no point in getting them.

I have 2 pairs of cheap jumpers like these in other family members cars and they do work most of the time but they are a pain and not nearly as safe. I have a nice pair of 4 guage copper 25 foot ones and using those is a breeze and a lot safer.

Buying a good pair of cables $40-$60 may very well save your life (keeping you from getting shocked, not tripping on cables that are taught while on the side of a road, etc. Then again if you're stupid no cable is going to keep you from killing yourself.

Bdubslawman 02-20-2013 02:20 AM

"This yellow and black booster cable has 8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire that is combined with a terminal biting jaw design to provide excellent quality and performance.
• Jaws are copper plated to offer the best conductivity and power transfer available.
• The 8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire provides excellent performance every time."
...Umm, I think not. More likely:
• Jaws are copper plated to offer the illusion or even fool/trick less discerning customers into believing these are fully copper jumper cables :lol:

Not knocking the deal. It's within a couple dollars of where it should be. But man do I miss the old days before metal prices skyrocketed.
4Guage copper longer lengths on sale for $19.99 - bygones.

Sanshell 02-20-2013 02:21 AM

thanks OP a great deal.

metronyshopper 02-20-2013 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sanshell (Post 57701760)
thanks OP a great deal.

i agree with the other posters,once i saw • The 8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire provides excellent performance every time"
i knew this was garbage, I have 9 gauge pure copper ground wire , that wouls have less resistence then this aluminum crap.
For 10 bucks it is what i consider a normal price.
I agree 4 gauge pure copper jumper cables are the only way to go.
these days for the price of copper being so high you are better off getting a battery jumper /booster box with the proper amperage and cranking power for your engine. 4 cylinder needs a lot less then a 6 or 8 cylinder.
I have had one i bought in 1995 for my 6 cylinder astrovan, that still work today, i think it has 850 cold crak amps, which is swall but it has saved me at least 10 times, if not more. No other car needed, no jumpers, just open hood and clmap its jumpers on and crank and go. sometimes you need to let it sit for 5 minutes, also make sure your connections, especially ground are rock solid. Turn off all your overhead lights radio a/c heater , and it has jumped batteries where the dome light was left on overnight, many times. Back around 1995 the tow truck guys were using them when you called for a jump., so much easier than playing with jumpers and alinement of vehicles.
The one i have from 1995 still works and has held a charge for a month, so far, as i just recharged it after i tie wrapped and duct tapped it together and made some new insulated areas for the clamps. It has fallen off the engine area more than a couple times. When i see a nice one on sale for around $60 , i will make sure i rig a dummy cord that will use a carabinner to hold the new one from falling from the area that it is being jumped. A piece of parachute cord would work fine as a dummy cord. The car i have now is a 4cylinder, so i actually need less cold cranking amps,but i would still get a good size one, for a larger car , just in case i need to help someone out. Get the right size for your car, my neighbor showed me theirs, it was small, and they have a 6 or 8 cylinder car. It was the wrong size, they don't understand amps and such.
dont mistake one of those emergency auto air compressor, flash light, radio and nose picker boxes they always have in the stores,those are good to have to blow up your" life like quadruple orifice inflatable love doll"... whoops ... i mean beach balls and air mattresses, car tires , if it is high volume low pressure, If you want to pump up bicycle tires, wheel chair tires you need low volume high pressure .

hollytree 02-20-2013 03:19 AM

tks to Anime . In 4 1.

gergev 02-20-2013 04:14 AM

12' 8ga $9 walmart

Traveler2530 02-20-2013 04:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57700804)
i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.


In general, Sears has gone down the toilet. Their products and customer service are not up to their own standards of just ten years ago. No wonder they're going bankrupt, and aren't expected to survive a couple more years. I predict they'll sell their name and survive only as Sears.com, and be like a Craigslist/eBay site.

Bye bye Sears! :wave: :wave:

tooslow 02-20-2013 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57700804)
i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.

Funny; I bought these (or something just like it) last time, and I was treated VERY nicely by the clerk at the Automotive department. He really talked up the cables and went on to tell me what a great deal i got, and how much they usually sell for.
Clearly, I was favorably impressed.

Copper/aluminum; no matter. The cables just sit in the trunk; get used once a year to start the yard tractor.
Come think of it, I wondered why I had to buy NEW cables.
I had some frightfully expensive, greater gauge, pure copper cables... and one of the clamps broke!
For use once a year.... perfect!

bitt3n 02-20-2013 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57700804)
i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.

you mean they were pleased to meet you and guessed your name?

mikefxu 02-20-2013 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57700804)
i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.

I got the digital automatic tire inflator and the guy was like "wow that's a good deal" and proceed with the sale.

Only time I buy from Sears now is these 50% off or more sales via store pickup.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-12...875114000P

prakashvit 02-20-2013 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57700804)
i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.


Thats true ...

theredfro 02-20-2013 05:32 AM

And if it doesn't work, you've got 4 chip clips.

dantaglo 02-20-2013 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradoxum (Post 57701692)
Then again if you're stupid no cable is going to keep you from killing yourself.

#Preach
:worship::worship:
I agree! Survival of the fittest

clearanceman 02-20-2013 05:49 AM

The gauge is light, I wouldn't get cables less than six gauge and 4 is even better. Also, I read recently that when you jump another car the car jumped from should be off initially for less chance of damage to the electrical system. The next day a guy needed a jump. I tried it, I hooked up everything and didn't turn on my car and it jumped his car just fine. I expect someone to tell me:

1. Gauge means nothing, they used speaker wire to jump a car one time.
2. They have always run the engine when they jumped another car and they jump cars 40 times per day with no ill effects.

Carry on.

crakarjax 02-20-2013 05:50 AM

Way too short! Get a 20' set and you will not regret it if and when you actually need it.

StoreRobber 02-20-2013 05:52 AM

Why do I need jumper cables when my car is a newer 2013 model?

Oh right, I need them cables to jump start your car, not mine....

in for 1 for captain save a joe...

clearanceman 02-20-2013 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradoxum (Post 57701692)
Just some thing to consider:

- The cables are only 12 feet - if a newer car is completely dead in the garage you usually can't even put it into Neutral to roll the car back (since the electronic lockout won't let you shift gears - I'm not a car guy so I don't know a way around this except for maybe using a booster battery), so forget trying to jump it if you can't get another car in front or next to the dead car with these cables
- The cables are aluminum instead of copper, if you are trying starts in colder weather or have a more demanding engine you may not be able to pull enough current
- The cables are only 8 gauge. This is sufficient for a start, but the cables will get warm with just one attempt. If you try to crank 5 or 6 times you better wear gloves as they may be very hot.

If you're going to throw these in your trunk it will add weight to your car (yes a very small amount), but with gas at $810/gallon here in SoCal give or take no need to haul useless crap. If you can't see yourself being able to start your car with these no point in getting them.

I have 2 pairs of cheap jumpers like these in other family members cars and they do work most of the time but they are a pain and not nearly as safe. I have a nice pair of 4 guage copper 25 foot ones and using those is a breeze and a lot safer.

Buying a good pair of cables $40-$60 may very well save your life (keeping you from getting shocked, not tripping on cables that are taught while on the side of a road, etc. Then again if you're stupid no cable is going to keep you from killing yourself.

Gas is $810 per gallon in CA? Yet another reason not to live there!

spicytofu 02-20-2013 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clearanceman (Post 57703106)
The gauge is light, I wouldn't get cables less than six gauge and 4 is even better. Also, I read recently that when you jump another car the car jumped from should be off initially for less chance of damage to the electrical system. The next day a guy needed a jump. I tried it, I hooked up everything and didn't turn on my car and it jumped his car just fine. I expect someone to tell me:

1. Gauge means nothing, they used speaker wire to jump a car one time.
2. They have always run the engine when they jumped another car and they jump cars 40 times per day with no ill effects.

Carry on.

Gauge does have an effect, but it does not limit the current. You can put 1000 amps into a single strand of wire if you wanted to. Be sure to keep it cool. Ever heard of superconductors at 0K? Aluminum is not the greatest but you can wire two of these in parallel and it will be just as good or better than copper. Is it cost effective? Not so sure about that.

clearanceman 02-20-2013 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Traveler2530 (Post 57702288)
In general, Sears has gone down the toilet. Their products and customer service are not up to their own standards of just ten years ago. No wonder they're going bankrupt, and aren't expected to survive a couple more years. I predict they'll sell their name and survive only as Sears.com, and be like a Craigslist/eBay site.

Bye bye Sears! :wave: :wave:

OK, but their store pick up is the best. Scan the print out and they bring out the item in less than 5 minutes or you get a coupon. My local Sears never goes over 2.5 minutes when I pick something up. That's a better pick up system than anywhere else I do store pick up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spicytofu (Post 57703162)
Gauge does have an effect, but it does not limit the current. You can put 1000 amps into a single strand of wire if you wanted to. Be sure to keep it cool. Ever heard of superconductors at 0K? Aluminum is not the greatest but you can wire two of these in parallel and it will be just as good or better than copper. Is it cost effective? Not so sure about that.

Just waiting on the refuting of the running the engine thing and I will be all set.

sixty 02-20-2013 06:02 AM

just missed it by 1 minute. It was $8.99 in the cart but $9.99 at check out.

ehero 02-20-2013 06:03 AM

is gauge 8 sufficient for my large SUV?

nemmy 02-20-2013 06:17 AM

in for 1, repped!

tcope 02-20-2013 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ehero (Post 57703314)
is gauge 8 sufficient for my large SUV?

Will it work? Probably... but there are trade offs. If your battery is very low you'd probably need to wait awhile with the cables connected in order to sponge a little charge off of the good battery. In cold weather it will take even longer. In the worse situations (low charge and low temps) a jump with thin cables might not work at all. Your SUV requires a higher crank amp. Thicker cables can transfer this kind of power. It's been awhile since I looked but 8 guage jumpers might only be meant to deliver 500 cranking amps or so. You might need around 700 or 750. As mentioned before, if you were to hold the key on and crank the engine for several seconds these cables might start to get warm.

mikefxu 02-20-2013 06:17 AM

I have had no problem jumping from 4 cylinder Hondas to other cars from a 14' 8 gauge booster cable. 14' requires you to park as close battery to battery as you can. If you don't carry any booster cables now this is a good deal. If you are a everyday road warrior that helps every person on the side of the road then this set is not for you, you may want longer length and lower gauge.

alltoohuman 02-20-2013 06:19 AM

Rats, no store pickup or shipping.

eeagle 02-20-2013 06:39 AM

I would hold out til the Die Hard Platinum 20ft. 450A 4 Gauge Booster Cable Kit [sears.com] is on sale.

The extra length, higher gauge cooper, and a storage case will be worth it the long run.

Kerroj 02-20-2013 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradoxum (Post 57701692)
Just some thing to consider:

- The cables are only 12 feet - if a newer car is completely dead in the garage you usually can't even put it into Neutral to roll the car back (since the electronic lockout won't let you shift gears - I'm not a car guy so I don't know a way around this except for maybe using a booster battery), so forget trying to jump it if you can't get another car in front or next to the dead car with these cables
- The cables are aluminum instead of copper, if you are trying starts in colder weather or have a more demanding engine you may not be able to pull enough current
- The cables are only 8 gauge. This is sufficient for a start, but the cables will get warm with just one attempt. If you try to crank 5 or 6 times you better wear gloves as they may be very hot.

If you're going to throw these in your trunk it will add weight to your car (yes a very small amount), but with gas at $810/gallon here in SoCal give or take no need to haul useless crap. If you can't see yourself being able to start your car with these no point in getting them.

I have 2 pairs of cheap jumpers like these in other family members cars and they do work most of the time but they are a pain and not nearly as safe. I have a nice pair of 4 guage copper 25 foot ones and using those is a breeze and a lot safer.

Buying a good pair of cables $40-$60 may very well save your life (keeping you from getting shocked, not tripping on cables that are taught while on the side of a road, etc. Then again if you're stupid no cable is going to keep you from killing yourself.

You sound like Chicken Little to me. I've used all sorts of jumper cables in over 30 years of driving and have never shocked myself jumping 4, 6, and 8 cyl. vehicles. It really is important to hook them up correctly every time, after all, it is electricity, black neutral first and then red power. These are $9 cables and comparing them to super-duper copper titanium industrial military-grade 2-gauge 25ft. cables with 4-inch thick silicon jackets where you're going to spend $80 or more is ridiculous.

By the way, how do you teach cables not to trip people?

stasis 02-20-2013 07:07 AM

delete

spicytofu 02-20-2013 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clearanceman (Post 57703196)
OK, but their store pick up is the best. Scan the print out and they bring out the item in less than 5 minutes or you get a coupon. My local Sears never goes over 2.5 minutes when I pick something up. That's a better pick up system than anywhere else I do store pick up.


Just waiting on the refuting of the running the engine thing and I will be all set.

The engine thing is a little more tricky. Yes, you are able to start another car with the engine off if you like. Having it on also helps a small boost. Say your CCA is only 450 but the charging system can charge at a max rate of 50 amps at 3000 rpm. So if you hold the rev at 3000, you essentially have a max draw of 500 CCA. Im keeping it simple here, its more complicated than that. So in theory, yes, you can start it with the engine off provided that the battery is much higher than the needed CCA of the dead car.

The electrical system "stress" has its merits but isnt usually a problem. You will always get a spark whether it connect the batteries with the engine off or on. Voltage spikes can be easily corrected with simple capacitor and inductor, just hope the auto manufacturer didnt decided to save 5 cents here and there....

BTW, many shops dont use cars to jump start, they have large equipement operated on battery. Im pretty sure there is no engine in there.

I picked up two just for fun. I dont plan to use it for jumpstarting, but 8 ga wire can be useful, e.g. UPS extended battery.

krazyrph 02-20-2013 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57700804)
i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.

...Same here, will never go in there again

Ashvins 02-20-2013 07:18 AM

Ordered and just got the OOS cancellation. Saved me the trouble of cancelling myself after the comments that I read here.

flyingroach 02-20-2013 07:31 AM

As many have mentioned. Just find someone with a sams club membership and buy as many of the peak all copper wire ones you can carry. Price costs less than the copper and will last YEARS. Cheap cables usually work if you leave it on the car long enough, but why wait. Get a big pile of copper, have a great battery yourself and skip waiting for tow truck to show up. (I have a 5 speed so never jumped my car, just roll it, but nice to help others)

Under $20, 4 gauge 100% copper conductors, 20 feet long, and a pretty case.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/peak...tion=#desc

TVMaster 02-20-2013 07:32 AM

Always good to have these round in my opinion

Traveler2530 02-20-2013 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ashvins (Post 57704754)
Ordered and just got the OOS cancellation. Saved me the trouble of cancelling myself after the comments that I read here.

WRONG about cancelling. Sears.com, their customer service, so on... won't let you cancel an order. This is even if it is only MINUTES after you place the order. If you had to pay shipping/handling, you'll lose that if you need to return an item.

Sears.com sux big-time!

reaperman 02-20-2013 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyingroach (Post 57705004)
As many have mentioned. Just find someone with a sams club membership and buy as many of the peak all copper wire ones you can carry. Price costs less than the copper and will last YEARS. Cheap cables usually work if you leave it on the car long enough, but why wait. Get a big pile of copper, have a great battery yourself and skip waiting for tow truck to show up. (I have a 5 speed so never jumped my car, just roll it, but nice to help others)

Under $20, 4 gauge 100% copper conductors, 20 feet long, and a pretty case.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/peak...tion=#desc

Keep reading the description states: "These heavy duty booster cables are made of 4 gauge copper-clad aluminum conductors"

Copper-clad aluminum is far cry from pure copper. Its the chinese method of putting a razor thin layer of copper on aluminum wires. You probably wouldnt notice any difference between these and the Sears cables, other than the length.

troutwild 02-20-2013 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spicytofu (Post 57703162)
Gauge does have an effect, but it does not limit the current. You can put 1000 amps into a single strand of wire if you wanted to. Be sure to keep it cool. Ever heard of superconductors at 0K? Aluminum is not the greatest but you can wire two of these in parallel and it will be just as good or better than copper. Is it cost effective? Not so sure about that.

You might wanna check your facts. I think you are mistaking current for voltage. A single strand or 1000 strands would handle 12 volts the same. A single strand would handle very little current before burning itself out. (think fuse).

thairicanrob 02-20-2013 08:24 AM

Wow... Got a refund notice from PayPal five minutes after ordering. It's been another 20 mins and nothing from Sears yet. I keep telling myself no more Sears, but here I am again!

nolife 02-20-2013 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradoxum (Post 57701692)
Just some thing to consider:

- The cables are only 12 feet - if a newer car is completely dead in the garage you usually can't even put it into Neutral to roll the car back (since the electronic lockout won't let you shift gears - I'm not a car guy so I don't know a way around this except for maybe using a booster battery), so forget trying to jump it if you can't get another car in front or next to the dead car with these cables
- The cables are aluminum instead of copper, if you are trying starts in colder weather or have a more demanding engine you may not be able to pull enough current
- The cables are only 8 gauge. This is sufficient for a start, but the cables will get warm with just one attempt. If you try to crank 5 or 6 times you better wear gloves as they may be very hot.

If you're going to throw these in your trunk it will add weight to your car (yes a very small amount), but with gas at $810/gallon here in SoCal give or take no need to haul useless crap. If you can't see yourself being able to start your car with these no point in getting them.

If you want to carry arround jumper cables in your trunk for piece of mind, these would be the perfect set to get. You do not need a set of $50 25ft copper cables in your trunk for emergencies. Although nice to have, no one except maybe a tow truck driver needs a 25 foot set of cables really. There are cheaper more flexible solutions for those extrmeme cases like a jumper box. What would you rather have when your battery goes dead at the mall? A set of these in your trunk or a top notch set of 25ft 4 gauge copper ones sitting at home?

Quote:

I have 2 pairs of cheap jumpers like these in other family members cars and they do work most of the time but they are a pain and not nearly as safe. I have a nice pair of 4 guage copper 25 foot ones and using those is a breeze and a lot safer.

Buying a good pair of cables $40-$60 may very well save your life (keeping you from getting shocked, not tripping on cables that are taught while on the side of a road, etc. Then again if you're stupid no cable is going to keep you from killing yourself.
YOU WILL NEVER GET SHOCKED FROM ANY JUMPER CABLE, EVER. Watch out throwing that word stupid around. Your charging system only puts out 12-14v. 12-14v is not enough to shock you ever unless you are skinless, bleeding and sitting in salt water and even then, it may only be something you feel but not enough current to your heart to kill you. Go touch both your battery terminals, did you get shocked? No and you never will, why do you think you would get shocked with jumper cables. You are confused on current and voltage and the physics behind electrical shock. What about these cheap cables are a pain?

These are a perfect set of cables for the average person to have that may use them once or twice a year.

Ch3apSk8 02-20-2013 08:47 AM

Sam's Club used to claim they were "100% copper". I tried to correct them after I bought some, but they ignored me. I had to get Peak involved before Sam's finally corrected the specs.
Quote:

Originally Posted by flyingroach (Post 57705004)
As many have mentioned. Just find someone with a sams club membership and buy as many of the peak all copper wire ones you can carry. Price costs less than the copper and will last YEARS. Cheap cables usually work if you leave it on the car long enough, but why wait. Get a big pile of copper, have a great battery yourself and skip waiting for tow truck to show up. (I have a 5 speed so never jumped my car, just roll it, but nice to help others)

Under $20, 4 gauge 100% copper conductors, 20 feet long, and a pretty case.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/peak...tion=#desc

Quote:

Originally Posted by reaperman (Post 57705360)
Keep reading the description states: "These heavy duty booster cables are made of 4 gauge copper-clad aluminum conductors"

Copper-clad aluminum is far cry from pure copper. Its the chinese method of putting a razor thin layer of copper on aluminum wires. You probably wouldnt notice any difference between these and the Sears cables, other than the length.


C.H. 02-20-2013 09:06 AM

Unfortunately, your entire order is now out of stock at the store you selected. We've cancelled your order, and you won't be charged.

Thank you again for shopping with us, and we apologize for the inconvenience.

GoldenGriff 02-20-2013 10:05 AM

These are a perfect set of cables for the average person to have that may use them once or twice a year.[/QUOTE]
Just like last time, I once again received an email stating that it wasn't available in my store.

Can Sears please just go away? Stop bleeding and just die already.

spicytofu 02-20-2013 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by troutwild (Post 57706018)
You might wanna check your facts. I think you are mistaking current for voltage. A single strand or 1000 strands would handle 12 volts the same. A single strand would handle very little current before burning itself out. (think fuse).

And if you hold the fuse at 0K, it will NOT burn out. it only burns out because of I^2R heating. Basic EE stuff.

So to say a small gauge wire cannot handle high current is false because you are referring to the physical size as the limitation, which is untrue. As an EE designing high power radars, I would be dead if I cannot differentiate between current and voltage. Some radars are supercooled to handle the high power and small size.

Hier0 02-20-2013 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microkelvin (Post 57700804)
i only picked up at sears auto center once and never again.
they looked at me like a devil.

Got the Die Hard Gold 16ft. - 225A - 6 Gauge Booster Cable last time for $16.xx after tax.
1. Auto center looked at me like a devil too
2. They coudln't find the 16 ft 6 gauge and tried to offer me the 12 ft 8 gauge, saying that 8 is better than 6. :shake:
3. Took 5 phone calls, another week, and another trip before they were able to finally get the 16ft 6 gauge.

never again. :wave:

suloch 02-20-2013 10:17 AM

Ordered one and picked up at local Sears store.
I got one of the most ignorant customer service at the counter. She was like I'm stealing something.

iCheapo 02-20-2013 10:29 AM

Just finished my order for pick-up. Hope they actually have the item and don't cancel. Thanks OP!

Quote:

Originally Posted by nolife (Post 57706566)
YOU WILL NEVER GET SHOCKED FROM ANY JUMPER CABLE, EVER. Watch out throwing that word stupid around. Your charging system only puts out 12-14v. 12-14v is not enough to shock you ever unless you are skinless, bleeding and sitting in salt water and even then, it may only be something you feel but not enough current to your heart to kill you. Go touch both your battery terminals, did you get shocked? No and you never will, why do you think you would get shocked with jumper cables. You are confused on current and voltage and the physics behind electrical shock. What about these cheap cables are a pain?

I'm inclined to disagree with you there. Car batteries can be pretty hazardous in so many different ways. Here's an example:
1.) Connect your jumper cables to a car battery (preferably a non-dead one)
2.) Touch the other two ends together and pull them apart
3.) Notice the lightning bolt you just created and how loud the crack was.
4.) Remember how small yet painful a static shock is. Now imagine it several times worse with a car battery.

DO NOT TRY IT. This is just what happened to me one time when I was trying to jump a car. I always wear rubber gloves whenever I need to jump a car nowadays.

Dam itz Lou 02-20-2013 10:34 AM

Who bought them all at the queens blvd store ? =|

christopherboyce 02-20-2013 10:47 AM

I ordered three sets and went to pick them up. The guy said that I was 'lucky to get these' as he had about 50 orders come in today already (they were low on stock to begin with), obviously, he did not know why there were so many orders.

When I went to slide my card, the display showed $80.xx for the total price. I told him that was incorrect (should have been around $31) and I cancelled the prompt on the card reader.

I told him the deal (Deal of the Day) and he said that was the price the computer gave him and he couldn't do anything. I pulled up my emailed receipt and the Sears.com web site with the 'Deal of the Day', on my phone. He still said he couldn't do anything - he finally went back to get the Manager, and another manager that I've dealt with (positively) before, and they couldn't believe the price, but had to honor it, especially since it was active right on Sears.com web site.

There is more to the (boring) story, but I did walk out with the cables and they even discounted a little more off my total price.

Stay thirsty, my friends. : )

bajaSeven 02-20-2013 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Traveler2530 (Post 57702288)
In general, Sears has gone down the toilet. Their products and customer service are not up to their own standards of just ten years ago. No wonder they're going bankrupt, and aren't expected to survive a couple more years. I predict they'll sell their name and survive only as Sears.com, and be like a Craigslist/eBay site.

Bye bye Sears! :wave: :wave:

Could not agree with you more. Well said!

nolife 02-20-2013 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iCheapo (Post 57709654)
Just finished my order for pick-up. Hope they actually have the item and don't cancel. Thanks OP!


I'm inclined to disagree with you there. Car batteries can be pretty hazardous in so many different ways. Here's an example:
1.) Connect your jumper cables to a car battery (preferably a non-dead one)
2.) Touch the other two ends together and pull them apart
3.) Notice the lightning bolt you just created and how loud the crack was.
4.) Remember how small yet painful a static shock is. Now imagine it several times worse with a car battery.

DO NOT TRY IT. This is just what happened to me one time when I was trying to jump a car. I always wear rubber gloves whenever I need to jump a car nowadays.

I never said or implied that a 12V lead acid car battery is not dangerous. I said you would never get shocked by one. That fact still stands. That arc comes from the excessive current flowing between the ends that you are playing with. Two jumper cables wires offer little resistance and therfore high current. When that high current starts and stops with an inceasing sized air gap (the act of you putting them together and pulling them apart), that spark or arc is generated. That phenomena has absolutley no relationship to a human being electrically shocked. A spark and shock are not the same thing. I'm sorry you do not understand that concept but it is not a lie. You can wear your rubber gloves near a car battery out of fear of being shocked but some day when you understand the physics behind a spark and shock you will see why it doesnt make sense. To prevent acid from getting on your hand, yes. Touch two 120V wires together in your house wiring, same spark and YES, that house wiring can electrocute you and can kill you. Not by you touching those two wires together but by both wires touching you and them not touching each other.

humnukupua 02-20-2013 01:02 PM

bought the cable from two different sears and got out of stock cancellation e-mails from both stores. i bet both stores have them in stock but just don't want to fulfill the order at the sale price.

bussam 02-20-2013 01:31 PM

Ordered 3 and got cancellation and refund shortly after. Ordering again and calling someone at the store to see why it's getting cancelled. Also ordering from a different store to see what happens there.

Pony66 02-20-2013 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spicytofu (Post 57709084)
And if you hold the fuse at 0K, it will NOT burn out. it only burns out because of I^2R heating. Basic EE stuff.

So to say a small gauge wire cannot handle high current is false because you are referring to the physical size as the limitation, which is untrue. As an EE designing high power radars, I would be dead if I cannot differentiate between current and voltage. Some radars are supercooled to handle the high power and small size.

You're shitting us, right? That is, that you have a comprehension of basic Electronics Engineering....

Fuses are rated in Amps (aka, current). Hold up a 10amp buss fuse, and compare it to a 30amp buss fuse. See how the center part is wider/thicker on the 30amp? It's physically larger. What you're saying makes about as much sense as saying a 1/2" garden hose can pass 1000gpm, just like a 10" hose. The physical size DOES limit ampacity.

And a 0 amp fuse is not a fuse - well.....actually, it's a burned out fuse. Because there's no current that can pass through. No current = 0amps.

Physical size IS a limitation to current handling. For the love of all that's precious, google yourself a copy of the NEC (National Electric Code), and in it you'll find several tables which list the maximum ampacity for electrical wiring based upon the size (gauge) and type.

LordAthens 02-20-2013 02:59 PM

The amount of misinformation in this thread is overwhelming. So is the reading comprehension.

Some general info on jump-starting;
  • Always start the good vehicle and have it running when attempting to start the dead vehicle. This is for two reasons; first, a car battery at a normalized voltage will sit around 12-12.5v. When the car is running, so is the alternator. When running, the vehicles charging system sits around 13.8-14.1v. That 1-1.5v will absolutely make a difference in getting the other vehicle started. Second, again the alternator is running, giving you another 60-200A of starting capacity. Keep the "donor' car reved up to at least 2k RPM's. Alternators have very, very low outputs when sitting at idle. By having the additional current and voltage available, you have a much better chance of getting the vehicle started, especially with cheap ass cables such as these.

  • You will not get shocked off a 12v car battery, nor even a 24v setup on a OTR truck. Yes, if you short a set of battery cables, it will spark. But it will not shock you. Period. The low voltage of an automotive setup flat out will not overcome the resistance of your skin. I'll be glad to go grab both leads on my 3000w UPS that uses a large 48v battery pack. Generally at absolute minimum you have to be above 60v to overcome the resistance, but even then that would be in a laboratory perfect setting to have it happen. I've worked with 70v speaker systems and never once felt so much as a tingle.

  • Copper has lower resistance than aluminum. The smaller the number (gauge / AWG) the larger the cable. 8ga Alu wire would be equivalent to 10ga, possibly even 12ga Cu wire.

  • Regarding these cables, will they work? Maybe. There are a lot of variables at play. How dead is your battery? How many cylinders? Diesel or gas? If you left your lights on in your 4cyl Honda for an hour while you were in the store and the starter solenoid clicks when you try to start it, then yes, there is a good chance these cables will start the car (*IF* they can reach, 12' is much shorter than you think it is in this application. This would be limited to a nose-to-nose setup or possibly a side-by-side).

    If you left your lights on overnight and the battery is flat or your trying to turn over a 8cyl or any diesel motor, then these are likely not going to fly. At least, not without sitting for a while to let the donor vehicle charge the dead vehicle (and again, keep the RPM's up in the donor car, thus keeping the voltage and current up)

  • Regarding the talk of jump start packs; 99% of the units that you can buy in a retail store are about worthless. Further, 99.9% of people will throw them in their trunk and never think to charge them until they need it. The batteries in most starting packs are 12v 7aH SLA's. If they sit for over 6 months without being charged, they're useless. Useless to the point that the battery actually may never again take a charge. You should realistically charge these overnight at least once a month. Of course, no one will actually do that.

    In addition, they have VERY little starting current. SLA's are not good at high peaks of current, which is exactly what you want for starting a car. SLA's are great for long, low current power draws.

    Yes, some shops use jump packs, packs like these [awdirect.com]. Much higher cost and a much higher weight than the $30 Walmart special. Also, they are (in good shops) always kept plugged in on float charge.


Quote:

Originally Posted by iCheapo (Post 57709654)
I'm inclined to disagree with you there. Car batteries can be pretty hazardous in so many different ways. Here's an example:
1.) Connect your jumper cables to a car battery (preferably a non-dead one)
2.) Touch the other two ends together and pull them apart
3.) Notice the lightning bolt you just created and how loud the crack was.
4.) Remember how small yet painful a static shock is. Now imagine it several times worse with a car battery.

Static shock is created by high voltage. Again, car batteries are not. If you use just the tiniest bit of common sense, you wouldn't so much as get dirty jumping a car. IE, don't purposely short a set of clamps and put your handle in the middle of them. A Van de Graaff machine for example, creates an extremely high voltage, generally a minimum of 400kV, but at very low current ~5uA and those don't hurt when you touch them ;)


Quote:

Originally Posted by Pony66 (Post 57715280)
You're shitting us, right? That is, that you have a comprehension of basic Electronics Engineering....

Fuses are rated in Amps (aka, current). Hold up a 10amp buss fuse, and compare it to a 30amp buss fuse. See how the center part is wider/thicker on the 30amp? It's physically larger. What you're saying makes about as much sense as saying a 1/2" garden hose can pass 1000gpm, just like a 10" hose. The physical size DOES limit ampacity.

And a 0 amp fuse is not a fuse - well.....actually, it's a burned out fuse. Because there's no current that can pass through. No current = 0amps.

Physical size IS a limitation to current handling. For the love of all that's precious, google yourself a copy of the NEC (National Electric Code), and in it you'll find several tables which list the maximum ampacity for electrical wiring based upon the size (gauge) and type.

No, he is absolutely correct. The cooler you keep a conductor, the more ampacity it has. Physical size doesn't limit ampacity. Physical size will cause more (smaller conductor) or less resistance (larger conductor), thus increasing heat. This is exaggerated by length, again causing more resistance.

If you would have attempted to read and comprehend what he was saying, he wasn't talking about 0 ohms or 0 amps. He was talking about supercooling and 0K, also known as Zero Kelvin or Absolute Zero. That's ~ -270C or -470F.

By super cooling a conductor you could pass hundreds or thousands of Amps across a 12ga conductor. These is exactly why any wire that is sold has a insulation temperature rating applied to it.

IE an 8ga Cu 60C conductor is rated at 40A, where the same 8ga Cu conductor, but with a 90C rating on it is good for 55A. To further help explain what I posted above about Cu vs Alu, the same 8ga 60C conductor, but in Alu is only good to 30A. This is a bit out of context for this topic (these are current NEC allowable ampacities), but it shows a direct comparison of heat vs current. 8ga is able to carry a lot more current if done for a short period of time without burning in half.


All of that said, buying cheap jumper cables is like carrying a flat spare tire. When you need it, you NEED it and you need it to work. If you need jumper cables, buy a good set. 4ga, 20ft, Copper is suitable for most vehicles and is what is in most of our vehicles. In my Jeep I carry 2ga, 20' copper. The Jeep has a high performance engine in it with 11:1 compression, it takes a good bit more juice to crank it over. The same with the Duramax, except it's set is 26' long.

Pony66 02-20-2013 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spicytofu (Post 57709084)

No, he is absolutely correct. The cooler you keep a conductor, the more ampacity it has. Physical size doesn't limit ampacity. Physical size will cause more (smaller conductor) or less resistance (larger conductor), thus increasing heat. This is exaggerated by length, again causing more resistance.

If you would have attempted to read and comprehend what he was saying, he wasn't talking about 0 ohms or 0 amps. He was talking about supercooling and 0K, also known as Zero Kelvin or Absolute Zero. That's ~ -270C or -470F.

By super cooling a conductor you could pass hundreds or thousands of Amps across a 12ga conductor. These is exactly why any wire that is sold has a insulation temperature rating applied to it.

IE an 8ga Cu 60C conductor is rated at 40A, where the same 8ga Cu conductor, but with a 90C rating on it is good for 55A. To further help explain what I posted above about Cu vs Alu, the same 8ga 60C conductor, but in Alu is only good to 30A. This is a bit out of context for this topic (these are current NEC allowable ampacities), but it shows a direct comparison of heat vs current. 8ga is able to carry a lot more current if done for a short period of time without burning in half.

We're not talking about absolutes, controlled-environments, laboratory studies, or anything else. We're talking about the use of jumper cables by normal people in our atmosphere; temperature range of probably -10 degrees Fahrenheit to 80 degrees Fahrenheit - not in a vacuum in space. A smaller wire (physical size) has a higher resistance than a larger wire. There is only so much amperage that the wire can carry before failure. Bigger wire = more amperage. Size of wire does limit ampacity, everything else equal. Here in the practical, physical world. 8ga copper will always carry less current than 4ga copper. Not talking about comparing a clad to a solid. The absolute fact is that the 8ga copper side-by-side with the 4ga copper - in the same environment - at the same temperature - will never be able to carry as much current. It is physically smaller. Size does limit ampacity, apples to apples.

tvip 02-20-2013 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pony66 (Post 57718052)
we're not talking about absolutes, controlled-environments, laboratory studies, or anything else. We're talking about the use of jumper cables by normal people in our atmosphere; temperature range of probably -10 degrees fahrenheit to 80 degrees fahrenheit - not in a vacuum in space. A smaller wire (physical size) has a higher resistance than a larger wire. There is only so much amperage that the wire can carry before failure. Bigger wire = more amperage. Size of wire does limit ampacity, everything else equal. Here in the practical, physical world. 8ga copper will always carry less current than 4ga copper. Not talking about comparing a clad to a solid. The absolute fact is that the 8ga copper side-by-side with the 4ga copper - in the same environment - at the same temperature - will never be able to carry as much current. It is physically smaller. Size does limit ampacity, apples to apples.

mom!!!! They're arguing on the internet again!!!!

dflores88 02-20-2013 04:20 PM

OOS Tustin.

jeepingsurfing 02-20-2013 04:22 PM

Great addition to my bondage kit.

allclassnyc 02-20-2013 04:34 PM

Picked it up in Woodbridge and they tried to charge me $27 extra in the store. Luckily there were others picking up the cables too so they caved in after customers getting pissed and so everyone got their cables. The employees were surprised Sears Auto had "deals." What a bunch of idiots.

sklar 02-20-2013 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Traveler2530 (Post 57702288)
In general, Sears has gone down the toilet. Their products and customer service are not up to their own standards of just ten years ago. No wonder they're going bankrupt, and aren't expected to survive a couple more years. I predict they'll sell their name and survive only as Sears.com, and be like a Craigslist/eBay site.

Bye bye Sears! :wave: :wave:

Funny but people have been saying that since the 70's. For whatever reason, they keep ticking along.

Lots and lots of mis-steps though. They can't figure out clothing to save their lives, and even picking up lands end didn't help that. They kept selling decent tools while everyone else went to walmart and bought cheap crap. So they gave in and started selling their own cheap crap, but it still costs more than the cheap crap elsewhere. Their vaunted lifetime warranty on everything went away.

I used to buy a lot of stuff from Sears. Now unless its half price and I can pick it up and its decent, I don't bother. The craftsman riding mower I bought 5 years ago is a huge piece of crap. Never again.

Oh, and 99% of everything said in this thread is ridiculous. I carried a pair of cheap thin aluminum cables for years. Never had a problem with them. The worst thing you'll have to do is let the jumping vehicle run for ~5 minutes with the cables attached and the dead car will start unless its below freezing, its an 8 cylinder diesel and the battery was completely dead. Then you might have to wait another couple of minutes. Using thin aluminum cables has no risk or danger whatsoever. It will work. It may just take more than 15 seconds. I happen to have more than 15 seconds on the rare occasion I need to jumpstart a car or get a jump...

LordAthens 02-20-2013 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pony66 (Post 57718052)
We're not talking about absolutes, controlled-environments, laboratory studies, or anything else.

No, we're not. But you were the one arguing something that you're simply wrong about, I was simply correcting your mistake.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pony66
Fuses are rated in Amps (aka, current). Hold up a 10amp buss fuse, and compare it to a 30amp buss fuse. See how the center part is wider/thicker on the 30amp? It's physically larger. What you're saying makes about as much sense as saying a 1/2" garden hose can pass 1000gpm, just like a 10" hose. The physical size DOES limit ampacity.

And a 0 amp fuse is not a fuse - well.....actually, it's a burned out fuse. Because there's no current that can pass through. No current = 0amps.

Again, he was never talking about a 0 amp fuse. He was talking about any fuse at 0K, which he is right; if you take a 10A fuse and supercool it, it will never blow. It takes heat based on resistance from current to melt the fuse element. If it can't heat up, it won't fail.

Quote:

We're talking about the use of jumper cables by normal people in our atmosphere; temperature range of probably -10 degrees Fahrenheit to 80 degrees Fahrenheit - not in a vacuum in space. A smaller wire (physical size) has a higher resistance than a larger wire. There is only so much amperage that the wire can carry before failure. Bigger wire = more amperage. Size of wire does limit ampacity, everything else equal. Here in the practical, physical world. 8ga copper will always carry less current than 4ga copper. Not talking about comparing a clad to a solid. The absolute fact is that the 8ga copper side-by-side with the 4ga copper - in the same environment - at the same temperature - will never be able to carry as much current. It is physically smaller. Size does limit ampacity, apples to apples.
Again, technically, no. Size of wire does not limit ampacity. Resistance limits ampacity. Certain wires have more resistance than others. A resistor is a current limiting device. Wire, is not.

If you read any of my post, you would know that I agree that 4ga will carry more current than 8ga, but it's not because 8ga cable restricts ampacity, it's because it has more resistance than 4ga.

jetski777 02-20-2013 05:31 PM

Ordered and picked up at noon today. The local Sears store said they had over 20 online orders and only three in stock. Early bird gets the cables

qwertydvorak 02-20-2013 06:13 PM

"Also, as many have stated, these are thin (the larger the gauge number, the thinner the wire), short, and not copper, so I would consider these only if these are all you can afford. Still definitely better than nothing in an emergency."

Buy 2 pairs and hook them both up at the same time. Now you have enough starting power for anything. I have done this before to get more power for large engines.

SAN_MARINO 02-20-2013 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pony66 (Post 57718052)
We're not talking about absolutes, controlled-environments, laboratory studies, or anything else. We're talking about the use of jumper cables by normal people in our atmosphere; temperature range of probably -10 degrees Fahrenheit to 80 degrees Fahrenheit - not in a vacuum in space. A smaller wire (physical size) has a higher resistance than a larger wire. There is only so much amperage that the wire can carry before failure. Bigger wire = more amperage. Size of wire does limit ampacity, everything else equal. Here in the practical, physical world. 8ga copper will always carry less current than 4ga copper. Not talking about comparing a clad to a solid. The absolute fact is that the 8ga copper side-by-side with the 4ga copper - in the same environment - at the same temperature - will never be able to carry as much current. It is physically smaller. Size does limit ampacity, apples to apples.

"Can we all get along?" A message brought to you by the late Rodney King.

spicytofu 02-20-2013 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pony66 (Post 57715280)
You're shitting us, right? That is, that you have a comprehension of basic Electronics Engineering....

Fuses are rated in Amps (aka, current). Hold up a 10amp buss fuse, and compare it to a 30amp buss fuse. See how the center part is wider/thicker on the 30amp? It's physically larger. What you're saying makes about as much sense as saying a 1/2" garden hose can pass 1000gpm, just like a 10" hose. The physical size DOES limit ampacity.

And a 0 amp fuse is not a fuse - well.....actually, it's a burned out fuse. Because there's no current that can pass through. No current = 0amps.

Physical size IS a limitation to current handling. For the love of all that's precious, google yourself a copy of the NEC (National Electric Code), and in it you'll find several tables which list the maximum ampacity for electrical wiring based upon the size (gauge) and type.

Electrician trying to teach an EE? Get your theory down first. Physical size does NOT limit the current. Your analogy of the garden hose does not apply in this area of physics. HEAT is what cause the the fuse to burn, not the current itself. Eliminate the heat, you essentially have unlimited flow. Go grab a book on electronics and you will see I AM right. Im not saying you are wrong but the idea of size is limiting the current isnt all quite correct. Go research on superconductors and you will see WHY I am right. Plenty of PhD papers on it, if you can understand.

In the NEC, you can see that bare wire and insulated wire will have different capacities. Also, solid versus stranded will have different capacities...I wonder why if its all about the size, they should all be the same rating. Reason: they all have different thermal conductivity to the surrounded air, and different surface areas.

BTW I have a MSEE with years of designing high power radars. They need to be cooled well. Not trying to brag, but to show that Im not some college EE student. I know what I am talking about.

spicytofu 02-20-2013 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LordAthens (Post 57719574)
No, we're not. But you were the one arguing something that you're simply wrong about, I was simply correcting your mistake.



Again, he was never talking about a 0 amp fuse. He was talking about any fuse at 0K, which he is right; if you take a 10A fuse and supercool it, it will never blow. It takes heat based on resistance from current to melt the fuse element. If it can't heat up, it won't fail.



Again, technically, no. Size of wire does not limit ampacity. Resistance limits ampacity. Certain wires have more resistance than others. A resistor is a current limiting device. Wire, is not.

If you read any of my post, you would know that I agree that 4ga will carry more current than 8ga, but it's not because 8ga cable restricts ampacity, it's because it has more resistance than 4ga.

Thank you, this is the reason why a bigger wire CAN carry more amps SAFELY, not because the wire is bigger. And to juggle the other guys thoughts, a wire of gold is WORSE than copper, contrary to what people think that "gold plated" is a better conductor.

rsfurlong 02-20-2013 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by midwestmisery (Post 57701076)
Thanks, $9.50 shipped with SYWR.

Pickup only for me.

Sent from Slickdeals App for iPhone & iPod Touch.

bluejen 02-21-2013 12:12 AM

I'm SO glad I have AAA. Just watch out for the tow truck drivers; they'll try to sell you a new battery every time. Luckily I haven't had to use AAA much.

My car (an MR-2 at the time - fun, but what a totally impractical car), broke down in 110 degrees at the end of an offramp and I had to walk to the nearest place with a phone which was a nursery (this was years ago).

The car ended up being fine - never happened again after it was checked out at the Toyota dealership.

Bought my first cell and joined AAA that same afternoon. And bought a new car not long afterwards. Another BLACK car - great color in this weather. My brain must have been fried from that miserable day.

OK, you can go back to whatever you were arguing about. ;)

paradoxum 02-21-2013 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kerroj (Post 57703998)
You sound like Chicken Little to me. I've used all sorts of jumper cables in over 30 years of driving and have never shocked myself jumping 4, 6, and 8 cyl. vehicles. It really is important to hook them up correctly every time, after all, it is electricity, black neutral first and then red power. These are $9 cables and comparing them to super-duper copper titanium industrial military-grade 2-gauge 25ft. cables with 4-inch thick silicon jackets where you're going to spend $80 or more is ridiculous.

I have 3 kids that love to play "leave the lights and onboard accessories on so daddy can jump the van in the morning" and I've jumped my personal cars over 30 times last year, 2 times while holding a 3 year old. Chicken little indeed...while getting kicked in the nuts by a kid yelling "daddy can I get in the car now". The easier it is to hook up the damn cables the easier it is for my nuts. $80? $20 at Sams will buy 20ft 4 gauge copper.


Quote:

Originally Posted by nolife (Post 57706566)
YOU WILL NEVER GET SHOCKED FROM ANY JUMPER CABLE, EVER. Watch out throwing that word stupid around. Your charging system only puts out 12-14v. 12-14v is not enough to shock you ever unless you are skinless, bleeding and sitting in salt water and even then, it may only be something you feel but not enough current to your heart to kill you. Go touch both your battery terminals, did you get shocked? No and you never will, why do you think you would get shocked with jumper cables. You are confused on current and voltage and the physics behind electrical shock. What about these cheap cables are a pain?

Oooh an internet chest-thumping contest - I like these. Considering that I shocked 2 people yesterday with one of these [wikipedia.org] I think I'm a little more familiar than you about what voltage/amperage can "shock" a person. That plus my BS in Bio and EE might lend some credence. But most importantly my spidysense/caveman instinct says "Og see flying fire - Og frightened! Og stuuuupeed"

Ch3apSk8 02-21-2013 07:21 AM

You might want to check out post #76.
.
Quote:

Originally Posted by paradoxum (Post 57726960)
...$20 at Sams will buy 20ft 4 gauge copper.


nolife 02-21-2013 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradoxum (Post 57726960)
I have 3 kids that love to play "leave the lights and onboard accessories on so daddy can jump the van in the morning" and I've jumped my personal cars over 30 times last year, 2 times while holding a 3 year old. Chicken little indeed...while getting kicked in the nuts by a kid yelling "daddy can I get in the car now". The easier it is to hook up the damn cables the easier it is for my nuts. $80? $20 at Sams will buy 20ft 4 gauge copper.




Oooh an internet chest-thumping contest - I like these. Considering that I shocked 2 people yesterday with one of these [wikipedia.org] I think I'm a little more familiar than you about what voltage/amperage can "shock" a person. That plus my BS in Bio and EE might lend some credence. But most importantly my spidysense/caveman instinct says "Og see flying fire - Og frightened! Og stuuuupeed"

No chest thumping at all. I threw out nothing but facts and a plain and simple statement that you were wrong. You will NEVER find anything anywhere that shows that a 12V car battery and jumper cables will cause electrical shock to a person unless like I stated in my first comment, you are standing in salt water with your skin removed. Want to feel what you would feel even in that situation? Lick a 9 volt battery. Anyone reading this can and probably has touched their battery terminals and not a single one of them was shocked. Anyone here can search google for car battery shock and electical shock voltage and read the results or read about Ohms law, specific current flow though your body and its effects, and typical skin/body resistances are easily found and explained. No EE or BS required. Using your own example.... A defibrillator charges up to anywhere from 200-2000 volts to shock and deliver its energy across the heart. There is a reason that high voltage is required, if that thing had 12v at the paddles, there would be no shock. Do you really think in this day and age with our litigious society that if there was even a slight remote risk of being shocked from a car battery that there would be warnings everywhere and the battery terminals in your car would be totally sealed up with stickers depicting people getting shocked on them? Walmart would not have batteries sitting on the shelves out in the open with no warnings or no restrictions. Please provide something to back up your claims and l will gladly accept that my understanding is flawed.

SAN_MARINO 02-21-2013 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ch3apSk8 (Post 57730436)
You might want to check out post #76.
.

Sams Club refunded your $ or what?

Ch3apSk8 02-21-2013 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAN_MARINO (Post 57735454)
Sams Club refunded your $ or what?

I didn't have any 20' cables, so I kept them rather than keep waiting for a good deal on copper cables.

I was originally expecting it to be a price mistake, but I think it was a case of Sam's not knowing the specs and just making a guess.

LordAthens 02-21-2013 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradoxum (Post 57726960)
I have 3 kids that love to play "leave the lights and onboard accessories on so daddy can jump the van in the morning" and I've jumped my personal cars over 30 times last year, 2 times while holding a 3 year old. Chicken little indeed...while getting kicked in the nuts by a kid yelling "daddy can I get in the car now". The easier it is to hook up the damn cables the easier it is for my nuts.

LMAO. As a father of two little girls (4 & 2) I'm right there with you.

Easily one of the best posts I've ver read on SD.

SAN_MARINO 02-21-2013 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ch3apSk8 (Post 57744236)
I didn't have any 20' cables, so I kept them rather than keep waiting for a good deal on copper cables.

I was originally expecting it to be a price mistake, but I think it was a case of Sam's not knowing the specs and just making a guess.

IC. Copper is getting expensive and thieves are jacking copper left and right nowadays.


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