Tips to ensure you get your MIRs

[rcpaws]

Good tips.

I also tape the UPC to the rebate form (careful not to tape over the barcode or number) and draw an arrow pointing to the UPC so it's obvious and they would really have to try to separate the form from the UPC. One rebate company tried this recently and I had to FAX a copy.

And I put a check mark next to each step to indicate that it has been completed so not only that I don't miss something, but to show them I consciously went through each step.

And finally, I had a self-inking stamp made that states not to include me on any mailing lists, etc. Essentially, an explicit OPT-OUT to stamp on the rebate form so they can't claim they were never told.

[uscpsycho]

Here's another tip - Unless you have great penmanship I advise against filling out the rebate forms by hand. Especially the small ones that make it hard to write legibly. Instead of filling out the rebate forms by hand I always use an address label. My name and address are always nice and clear and the labels fit on even the tiniest rebate form.

This prevents them from using "illegible handwriting" as an excuse to deny you.

[flounder]

A little similar to OP, but I take my rebate letters to the post office and have them hand postmark the letter, and at the same time I ask them to postmark stamp my photocopy of the rebate form. Thus my copy of the rebate contains an official US postmark proving the date it was mailed. Post office will not stamp it unless you are mailing it then and there.

Technically speaking the post office is supposed to charge 85 cents for a "proof of mailing", but I found a couple of local post offices will just stamp my rebate photocopy for free. What I usually do is come to the post office counter with each rebate letter paperclipped to it's rebate photocopy and tell the person, "I'm mailing this letter now and I'd like you to hand-postmark it", then detach the letter from the rebate, and while they're postmarking the letter with their stamp, I say "...and could you please stamp my copy for my records." They look a little puzzled for a second, then most of the time they just do it. If they ask what it is, I tell them it's a photocopy of the rebate form I'm mailing and that sometimes rebate houses try to rip me off by denying that it was mailed in time, and this is how I can prove to them that I mailed it on that date.

If the teller shoots you down, just try another one another day or try another post office. It works at most post offices I've tried.

[rcpaws]

Very good tips on the postmark. But I'm too lazy for that much work.

Anyone know how some SD'ers convert regular PDF to fillable PDF? That would be a handy program to have.

[lakeforestdude]

Quote from The Llama : You just need the acrobat writer.

You dont need a acrobat writer.I once got a freeware which just makes read only pdf to read/write pdf document.I will update that freeware's name by evening.

[Bewenched]

Even if you had acrobat writer if it is saved in jpg format from the mfg you can't just edit it. Take the pdf into photoshop and add a layer of text as needed to it. Works for me.

[mcdavey]

Quote from Bewenched : Even if you had acrobat writer if it is saved in jpg format from the mfg you can't just edit it. Take the pdf into photoshop and add a layer of text as needed to it. Works for me.

actually lately i've run into 2 rebate forms that said it must be handwritten. Interpreted the way i did this means that you can not electronically sign it. (of course the signature portion of the rebate form is really a given that this is not allowed)

[uscpsycho]

Quote from mcdavey : actually lately i've run into 2 rebate forms that said it must be handwritten. Interpreted the way i did this means that you can not electronically sign it. (of course the signature portion of the rebate form is really a given that this is not allowed)

HOLY CRAP! What the hell is the point of requiring the form to be hand written? Just so they can provide too-small spaces to fill in your info, then deny your rebate because the writing is illegible.

Was the handwritten requirement in the fine print or was it prominently stated in the directions?

[flounder]

Quote from uscpsycho : HOLY CRAP! What the hell is the point of requiring the form to be hand written? Just so they can provide too-small spaces to fill in your info, then deny your rebate because the writing is illegible. Was the handwritten requirement in the fine print or was it prominently stated in the directions?

I've seen this before on a few occasions, listed down in the detailed instructions. I assume they want to make the rebate process as slow and painful as possible to increase the chances they won't have to pay out.

[michael427]

I thought I was hardcore

I only did the following:
1. Certify mail (anything bigger than 25 dollar rebate)
2. Photocopy UPC and REBATE forms
3. Put the records on MS Word so I don't forget my rebates

Wow thanks for the suggestions everyone!!!

[uscpsycho]

Does anyone else regularly send their rebates via certified mail? It costs $2.40 each time (using stamps.com) and that can add up to quite a bit if you mail as many rebates as I do.

[jgombos]

For those of you technical folks who are purely electronic, you can use email to have your electronic copies digitally notorized. Just email them to yourself through the free timestamping server in the UK [co.uk]. Then if hte worst happens, you can prove to a court what point in time your rebate documents existed, and prove the contents of the forms at the time.

Though it will not prove that you actually mailed them, so certified mail should still be used in addition for big money rebates.

Quote from uscpsycho : HOLY CRAP! What the hell is the point of requiring the form to be hand written?

The most reasonable answer to that is so they can ensure that the buyer is an individual who is submitting one rebate. It discourages businesses from cranking out a bulk of rebate forms using an automated script. I also think this is the real reason some forms want your signature.

[Hoseman666]

Quote from flounder : Technically speaking the post office is supposed to charge 85 cents for a "proof of mailing"

Actually, last I checked it was 90 cents, but if you are doing 3 or more, ask for a Proof of Maling Register. It's a thick book (similar to the old UPS daily log) that you can fill out 8 per page. If you have at least 3 per page, the price drops to 30 cents each. (If you want to send 9 MIR, just split it up between 4/5 per page, not 8/1).

What's good about this is it also acts as a record-keeping log for the rebates, as you receive them you can check them off, or it could alert you if you need to inquire about one.

[uscpsycho]

Quote from uscpsycho : Speaking of highlighting - In addition to highlighting the date on the photocopy of the envelope I also like to highlight the rebate item & the purchase date on the copy of the receipt. If you highlight anything in your packet never use a color other than yellow! If any of your documents have to be photocopied by the rebate house the copies will not come out if you've used a highlihgter color other than yellow.

One more thing about highlighting... A lot of stores love to take a highlighter to your receipt as you exit the store. If they are using any color other than yellow, kindly ask them to only mark the top of the receipt where there is nothing printed. If you get a fat pink (or orange/blue/green...) stripe through the middle of your receipt you're going to have problems getting your rebates because when you make a copy of the receipt that pink stripe will look black. You'll also have crappy copies if you are saving them for tax deductions and such.