Forum Thread

Soyo Topaz S DYLM24D6 monitor dead

1 10 July 18, 2017 at 08:56 AM
I am having trouble getting my monitor to work. No power whatsoever. I took out the power supply and noticed that the fuse is blown and the large capacitor is leaky. I decided to replace the fuse to see if there was anything else wrong with the board. As soon as I plug the power supply ( only) to the outlet, the fuse blows out again. so I know something other than the large capacitor is bad. I can't really work on this without a schematic for this. any suggestions or anyone have schematics for this model?

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#2
Welcome to your first post.

There are various threads here on that monitor if you search https://slickdeals.net/f/1655449-solved-how-to-fix-m24e14-m24ei4-power-supply-board?page=28

It's got a know bad power supply issues, and people sell kits to repair it. That said from what I am seeing it's just a pretty normal 24" display from 2009. You can replace it with a modern display for around $100. Depending on what your doing with it you could get a 32" TV for about the same money too. I would replace it and move on. LCD monitors and TV for the most part are not economical to fix and better off being replaced. I have repaired a few tv's back in the day and never got any more then a few months from them.
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#3
Quote from meako979
:
I decided to replace the fuse to see if there was anything else wrong with the board. As soon as I plug the power supply ( only) to the outlet, the fuse blows out again. so I know something other than the large capacitor is bad.
I am not following this logic - if the capacitor is bad, let's say shorted, wouldn't that cause the fuse to instantly blow because of the bad capacitor?
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#4
If the replacement fuse immediately blows, it almost always means a transistor has shorted in the high voltage section. Replacements aren't too expensive, but be sure it's of the same type (NPN, N-channel MOSFET, etc) and that its voltage, current, and power ratings are at least as high as the original's, the gate turn-on voltage is the same, and the gate capacitance is about the same. Some good sources include Dalbani, Premium Parts, and MCM Electronics, which specialize in parts for repairing audio & video equipment.

Electrolytic capacitors can be partially tested with an ohm meter and the AC power disconnected, but for safety discharge any high voltage ones first by shorting across their 2 terminals with a screwdriver shaft, while holding the screwdriver only by its plastic handle. However this test is only reliable for checking for shorts, and capacitors also fail by drying out and going way up in resistance, which can be tested only by shooting an AC signal through it.

Transistors can be tested well enough with a digital multimeter's ohms or diode-check function, while the AC power is disconnected, but with MOSFETs it's common for a short to be between gate and channel. Also many MOSFETs have protective diodes, usually from source to drain but often also between gate and source or between gate and drain. Power transistors come in different packages that need to be electrically insulated differently from the heatsink. Some have an exposed metal tab and need a rectangular insulator (usually silicone rubber) plus a nylon shoulder washer (not flat washer) for the mounting screw, others have built-in insulation for the mounting screw, and others have both the screw hole and tab fully insulated and need no electrical insulation but may need silicone heatsink grease (do NOT use Arctic Silver or anything else containing pure metal powder with high voltage, regardless of the transistor's insulation). Also be really careful when testing the monitor with the cover removed because a lot of components can have high voltage on them, even heatsinks.

BadCaps.net has forums just for monitor and TV repair, and another good source can be AVSforums.com
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Last edited by larrymoencurly July 25, 2017 at 07:27 PM.
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#5
Quote from meako979
:
I am having trouble getting my monitor to work. No power whatsoever. I took out the power supply and noticed that the fuse is blown and the large capacitor is leaky. I decided to replace the fuse to see if there was anything else wrong with the board. As soon as I plug the power supply ( only) to the outlet, the fuse blows out again. so I know something other than the large capacitor is bad. I can't really work on this without a schematic for this. any suggestions or anyone have schematics for this model?
I will go with a hunch but you will likely need to also replace the FQPF13N50C (switching transistor which goes bad when the big cap goes - which you need to replace also). If you PM me your address, I will mail the part to you (assuming you are in the US). I will also mail you a big capacitor and another fuse. All you need to provide is the solder. 10-15 minutes later, you should hopefully have a monitor that should work unless some other part blew (look in the forums) - but with the fuse blowing immediately, I suspect this is your problem. Others have had the same part go bad as well. It's actually pretty easy to swap out.
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Last edited by CouponFinder99 February 22, 2018 at 08:29 PM.
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