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YMMV Scotts Turf Builder Halts Crabgrass Preventer with Lawn Food 5,000 sq ft $5

$5.00
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YMMV. My local Walmart had about 20 in stock, and Brickseek was accurate. Lots in stock at other nearby stores as well (Raleigh area). Rang up at $5, no problem.

https://brickseek.com/walmart-inv...u=34017428

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scotts...t/34017428
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Created 05-07-2019 at 11:37 AM by jrich05
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#46
15k ft = 20713587
5k ft = 34017428
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#47
Quote from XDecker
:
Yeah, my lawn is already weedy. I missed the window to apply pre-emergent (Charlotte, NC area). But I ended up overseeding the hell out of the lawn, and some of it actually took.

I knew that if I applied pre-emergent then I wouldn't have gotten any of the seed to work. So I was pretty much stuck.

Next year I'll apply this stuff in late Feb and then seed in early April and hope for the best.
Same situation here. I'm in Winston Salem.
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#48
OOS around me in TN. $5 dollar around SE Ohio. Might have the rents pick up my bags for me. I think this is normally $13.
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#49
Checked this morning at my local WM (Franklin, TN). Rang @ $17
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#50
Quote from jrich05
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It's getting late in the season to apply this in the south (my crabgrass is already having a party), maybe that's why it's so discounted?
Actually, if you have Poa Annua then you would apply this in the fall. You would apply it a second time in the spring for the Crabgrass. I need some of this for my backyard Poa Annua, but of course no stores around me have it.

If you don't want the fertilizer included, you can get just the pre-emergent for around $15. Not sure if there is enough fertilizer to warrant paying double the price at the full price point.
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#51
Is this too late to apply in the northeast? I have a newly seeded lawn and there is no grass growing, just weeds!
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#52
Quote from CheapMemeKing
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Is this too late to apply in the northeast? I have a newly seeded lawn and there is no grass growing, just weeds!
If you have a few weeds, pull, then apply this. You haven't gotten into fill bloom season yet, so you can stop a lot.

If the entire lawn is weedy + reseeded, that's kind of pointless. Ideally, full kill with roundup, wait a few weeks, reseed + fertilizer. Issue here is anything you apply to emerged weeds will stunt seeds. Realistically, kill all the weeds first, reseed+ fertilizer after.

...

I applied twice here in SoCal using the Vigro equivalent twice (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-14-96-lb-5-000-sq-ft-Weed-and-Feed-Fertilizer-52210/204750011) - once in jan/Feb, a second time a month or so later.

Seriously worked well this year in cutting down dandelion growth (you'll still very a few to pull, but far less than normal). Seeding each time, too (regular seed. Not coated).

Thanks the the rains each time, seriously fast growth. Entire lawn went green, then forced me to more more often =D with super fast growth. This was using a bag a few years old.

....

Sadly, neighbors in the area aren't good at all with lawn care, so in cases like this, unless you're running a golf course, it'll be impossible to get a fully weed free lawn for long due to the contamination you'll get.
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#53
Awesome Post. Thank you. I just picked up three 15000 sqft bags for 17 bucks each. The regular price was $64 bucks per bag. I live in upstate NY
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#54
This post saved me $147. I paid $192 this year and with this deal paid $45 for 9 small bags at $5 a piece!

Does anyone know if they discount the weed and feed or summer feed later in the year as well? I will have to keep an eye out.
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#55
Is there a calendar illustration of what to use during what time of year lol. I just keep buying the stuff and forget when to use it. EEK! I found 2 big bags of weed and feed in my garage too that I guess I bought last year.
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#56

Quote from man29128
:
Are you planting Fescue grass? If so... early fall would be the best time to plant grass in the Charlotte area.
Quote from smpjcu
:
That's not gonna work in Charlotte. You can apply the pre emergent but you'll have to wait to seed until early fall. Its too hot and the pre-emergent will prevent any seedlings for 8-10 weeks. There's no way any new grass will root properly to grow (especially since the heat will slow growth). As someone who lived in Charlotte and now in Richmond, your best bet is early fall seeding with a starter fertilizer and then another fertilizer application late october (its still warm and I cut my grass to December here in RVA). This has been the best route to a decent lawn, my two cents...
Yeah, I did overseed my fescue in the fall as well, and SOME of it took. Basically, where I messed up was not applying the pre-emergent in the late late winter (our seasons were so messed up here this year)

I had the plan in mind to apply the pre-emergent in late late winter and then seed in the early spring again and hope that the seeds would germinated. Basically, once the pre-emergent window passed, I had to fall back on just seeding in the early spring instead. It's somewhat paid off...there is actually new grass coming in, but the weeds are also having a party. I've been trying to pull weeds by hand, but there are WAY too many of them.

At this point I'm afraid of applying weed killer because yeah, supposedly they have stuff that's "safe" for lawns, but I don't want to risk killing whatever new grass I did get from the fall and spring seedings.

I'm basically stuck with pulling out whatever weeds I can by hand, and then waiting for a bit of a drought and hope that the new fescue is established enough to withstand it while the weeds die off. I'm basically trying to reach a critical mass of grass (I'm not trying to get out EVERY weed) wherein they can choke out the weeds. But at this point, there seems only a small hope of that. But hey, lesson learned for next year. Apply pre-emergent.
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#57
Quote from noungning
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Is there a calendar illustration of what to use during what time of year lol. I just keep buying the stuff and forget when to use it. EEK! I found 2 big bags of weed and feed in my garage too that I guess I bought last year.
If you get the scotts app, it tell you dates when to apply. It also provides recommendations on what products based on your lawn quality.
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#58
Quote from noungning
:
Is there a calendar illustration of what to use during what time of year lol. I just keep buying the stuff and forget when to use it. EEK! I found 2 big bags of weed and feed in my garage too that I guess I bought last year.
https://www.domyown.com/images/content/lawn_care_schedule_warm_season.jpg

https://www.domyown.com/images/content/lawn_care_schedule_cool_season.jpg

...

Basically, before everything starts growing and blooming in spring, apply fertilizer that has pre-emergent weed killer like this or the vigro I linked to earlier.

Killing weeds before they pop up is the easiest.

In socal, spring is March, I applied Jan/Feb.

Fertilizer is food for grass, so if the grass didn't spring up and Grow, usually not enough water or nutrients.

....

Water. Anything green won't grow without water.
If you think watering once a month will do it in socal, wrong. Other states get tons of rain, no problem. If the soil isn't darker brown moist, you'll get poor grass growth in spring.

Usually, watering 2-3x per week in so cal is necessary. Lots of charts for the country, but you just look at the grass (bright, springy, alive or dying limp, Browning, dry) and dirt and you'll know soon enough if you need to increase the watering cycles.

...

Seeding. Pre-spring fertilizing is the time to seed as well. Day temps 68+ good. I did mine a few times over several months because I'm too lazy to rake, otherwise, rake after seeding ( grass seeds not touching dirt won't grow ).

Density. 1 seed per inch. That's one grass growing. Imagine that lawn. A bit bare if seeding a bare lawn, but can be fine reseeding an established lawn.

You want Dense grass growth to crowd out all the weeds.

....

Mow 2-3 inches high (there are notes for student grass types).

This does 2 things.
1. Keeps most grass healthy. Most aren't golf short types, so too short just kills/harms the grass.

2. Taller helps increase density = crowd out weeds.
2-3" cut chops the heads off dandelions so they can't bloom and spread seeds, and higher than lower weed types to block then from getting sun.

3. Pull or spot spray of weed only (not grass killer, not round up) killer once spring arrives and everything is growing.

If the weeds get out of control, spray the lawn with post-emergent, but expect poorer grass growth. Once weeds overtake the lawn, it's a ton more work to dig them out and redo the lawn.

4. Fertilizer + pre emergent weed killer again in the late fall before winter weather hits. You want the grass to have enough food.
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#59
Quote from XDecker
:
Yeah, I did overseed my fescue in the fall as well, and SOME of it took. Basically, where I messed up was not applying the pre-emergent in the late late winter (our seasons were so messed up here this year)

I had the plan in mind to apply the pre-emergent in late late winter and then seed in the early spring again and hope that the seeds would germinated. Basically, once the pre-emergent window passed, I had to fall back on just seeding in the early spring instead. It's somewhat paid off...there is actually new grass coming in, but the weeds are also having a party. I've been trying to pull weeds by hand, but there are WAY too many of them.

At this point I'm afraid of applying weed killer because yeah, supposedly they have stuff that's "safe" for lawns, but I don't want to risk killing whatever new grass I did get from the fall and spring seedings.

I'm basically stuck with pulling out whatever weeds I can by hand, and then waiting for a bit of a drought and hope that the new fescue is established enough to withstand it while the weeds die off. I'm basically trying to reach a critical mass of grass (I'm not trying to get out EVERY weed) wherein they can choke out the weeds. But at this point, there seems only a small hope of that. But hey, lesson learned for next year. Apply pre-emergent.
If you're not going to roundup or till, then fully reseed / resod, then you've got to stop the weed growth first before they overrun the lawn (overrun = till n roundup n reseed/resod).

Weeds are growing = post-emergent weed spray over the entire lawn. The grass won't like it, but like you've said, the grass isn't growing all that well.

This will kick the weeds down quite a bit. You may need to repeat in a month or two if you have a severe weed issue.

...

About two weeks after, reseed + starter fertilizer, water well daily for two weeks. Hopefully this will establish new grass before the weeks come back.
Deweed by hand.

A month after initial post-emergent spray and two weeks after the reseed, check.

Either the weeds are having a crazy good time (ie. Didn't kill them well last time), or you've got new grass with a few weeds (ideal). Fertilizer, water, grow grass to about 6", then first tall 2-3" mow.

Reseed, fertilizer, water, check in a month while deweeding by hand or spot post-emergent weekly.
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#60
Quote from babygdav
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...
Thanks! This is helpful. Smilie
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