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Panasonic Lumix G9 Mirrorless Camera Body w/ Accessory Bundle

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Adorama has select Panasonic Lumix G9 Mirrorless Camera Bundles (Body Only, Black) listed below for $997.99. Shipping is free. Thanks masotimeBHPhotoVideo.com also has Panasonic Lumix G9 Mirrorless Camera (Body Only, Black) with Free Accessories Kit for $997.99. Shipping is free.

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Edited November 17, 2019 at 09:33 AM by
Panasonic recently dropped the price of the G9 (Micro four-thirds mirrorless camera) by $500 across all retailers.

DPReview score [dpreview.com]: 85%
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B&H Photo: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/pr...micro.html
Adorama: https://www.adorama.com/ipcg9.html

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Created 11-17-2019 at 08:29 AM by masotime
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Last Edited by StrawMan86 November 17, 2019 at 09:47 AM
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#61
Quote from kmpjon
:
I am sure , it would be me being a beginner because online and youtube reviews all show great IQ on par or close to sony. My main focus is in dynamic range and noise levels, am not too bothered about absolute crisp sharpness.

On comparing images on similar settings, I can see always my fuji jpegs are coming out as too dark in shadows, whereas in Nikon or Sony i can see more details in shadows.
Also when increasing ISO, for getting steady shots, i see noise even on shots taken around 4 pm evening (Atlanta).

I am only using manual mode to expose for the subject mainly.

Not sure if it could be a bad camera.
Without seeing the settings it's hard to say but the camera exposing for detail in shadows isn't really sensor dependent. Where that matters would be lifting shadows in a RAW converter.

Were you shooting manual or one of the priority modes?
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#62
Quote from kmpjon
:
Could someone please suggest lenses for my requirement ? I want cheaper and lighter ones but would also like to know best in quality for future upgrades.

1. Portraits with as much background compression and bokeh
2. normal wide for street situations with as much background separation.
3. Action, mainly kids activities and stage performances.

Did some research and found following ones:
panasonic 35-100mm f 2.8, panasonic 50-200mm f 2.8-4 and olympus 45-150 mm f 2.8

Are there any cheaper third party lenses for 4/3 system that has autofocus?
For the G9 I own the Panasonic 15mm 1.7, 42.5mm 1.7, and Leica 12-60 2.8-4. The 42.5 and 15 would fit your needs for #1 and #2. #3 depends on what kind of reach you need, to me stage performances and kids activities are very different - stage requiring more zoom and activities being more 15mm or 25mm (30mm and 50mm FF equivalents) territory.

The 12-60 is of course much more flexible and covers everything and more that the 3 primes above do, but you lose out on depth of field (compression and bokeh) due to the higher max aperture and add some on-camera size and weight. It's the simplest solution to everything you want, though.

Of course, I'm looking at everything from a Panasonic perspective, because the G9 allows you to double dip on stabilization and combine what's in a Panasonic lens with what's in the body. Plus the IQ on their 1.7 primes is pretty damn good for their price points, especially used on eBay.
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#63
Quote from kdlake
:
For the G9 I own the Panasonic 15mm 1.7, 42.5mm 1.7, and Leica 12-60 2.8-4. The 42.5 and 15 would fit your needs for #1 and #2. #3 depends on what kind of reach you need, to me stage performances and kids activities are very different - stage requiring more zoom and activities being more 15mm or 25mm (30mm and 50mm FF equivalents) territory.

The 12-60 is of course much more flexible and covers everything and more that the 3 primes above do, but you lose out on depth of field (compression and bokeh) due to the higher max aperture and add some on-camera size and weight. It's the simplest solution to everything you want, though.

Of course, I'm looking at everything from a Panasonic perspective, because the G9 allows you to double dip on stabilization and combine what's in a Panasonic lens with what's in the body. Plus the IQ on their 1.7 primes is pretty damn good for their price points, especially used on eBay.
I had the 12-60 and that lens was really good, especially for the price. The dual IS was insanely good.
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#64
Quote from kdlake
:
For the G9 I own the Panasonic 15mm 1.7, 42.5mm 1.7, and Leica 12-60 2.8-4. The 42.5 and 15 would fit your needs for #1 and #2. #3 depends on what kind of reach you need, to me stage performances and kids activities are very different - stage requiring more zoom and activities being more 15mm or 25mm (30mm and 50mm FF equivalents) territory.

The 12-60 is of course much more flexible and covers everything and more that the 3 primes above do, but you lose out on depth of field (compression and bokeh) due to the higher max aperture and add some on-camera size and weight. It's the simplest solution to everything you want, though.

Of course, I'm looking at everything from a Panasonic perspective, because the G9 allows you to double dip on stabilization and combine what's in a Panasonic lens with what's in the body. Plus the IQ on their 1.7 primes is pretty damn good for their price points, especially used on eBay.
Thanks, i see your point especially used lens is lot cheaper in ebay, so price wise i would be better off than fuji but still unclear if G9 with 6 stops of IBIS will help offset the negatives in ISO (due to small sensor) so that i can use low shutter speeds to compensate for higher f numbers / high iso handling available in a fuji or sony world. I will always be using handheld.

One thing i learned after trying out different cameras/lenses, is fast shutter speed can help with exposing the image, but it will not increase the bokeh. So background blur/bokeh will always be limited by the available f number, am i correct?


Regarding kids activities i will need more reach to use in a gym or orchestra hall., that is why i will definitely need fast tele zoom.
Wherever possible i like to go for low f numbers for the bokeh, so i don't want 12-60 2.8-4. even though it is flexible.

I only need one prime in wide angle , a portrait lens and a tele zoom - question is which one to select without breaking my bank and getting maximum bokeh in each scenarios...:-)
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Last edited by kmpjon November 18, 2019 at 11:32 AM.
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#65
Quote from Jarred125
:
Without seeing the settings it's hard to say but the camera exposing for detail in shadows isn't really sensor dependent. Where that matters would be lifting shadows in a RAW converter.

Were you shooting manual or one of the priority modes?
Yes, i was shooting manual mode and always exposing for subjects. Some times outdoors , i try to expose for sky so that highlights are not blown out.
I understand we can correct shadows/highlights in PP, but i was mainly comparing jpegs out of each camera.
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#66
Quote from kmpjon
:
Thanks, i see your point especially used lens is lot cheaper in ebay, so price wise i would be better off than fuji but still unclear if G9 with 6 stops of IBIS will help offset the negatives in ISO (due to small sensor) so that i can use low shutter speeds to compensate for higher f numbers / high iso handling available in a fuji or sony world. I will always be using handheld.

One thing i learned after trying out different cameras/lenses, is fast shutter speed can help with exposing the image, but it will not increase the bokeh. So background blur/bokeh will always be limited by the available f number, am i correct?


Regarding kids activities i will need more reach to use in a gym or orchestra hall., that is why i will definitely need fast tele zoom.
Wherever possible i like to go for low f numbers for the bokeh, so i don't want 12-60 2.8-4. even though it is flexible.

I only need one prime in wide angle , a portrait lens and a tele zoom - question is which one to select without breaking my bank and getting maximum bokeh in each scenarios...:-)
You are correct, bokeh is a result of the aperture.

I can recommended the Panasonic lines of f1.7 primes, but I haven't really looked into any telephoto lenses because I don't really use/need them. The lens & body stabilization will definitely help you shoot slower shutter speeds and keep ISO lower to reduce noise. Will it be enough for you? Hard to say. Full frame has the advantage here because f1.8 on M43 is, I believe, the equivalent to f3.5 on FF. So even 1.7, which sounds really good, isn't as flexible as it seems.

Are you doing video or just stills? Because if you will rarely be using video, an older generation full frame body might be the direction you want to go for more bokeh and low light performance. I'm looking to get into full frame for stills, and the D750 at $900 and some FX primes would be a very effective setup.
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Last edited by kdlake November 18, 2019 at 12:14 PM.
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#67
Quote from kdlake
:
You are correct, bokeh is a result of the aperture.

I can recommended the Panasonic lines of f1.7 primes, but I haven't really looked into any telephoto lenses because I don't really use/need them. The lens & body stabilization will definitely help you shoot slower shutter speeds and keep ISO lower to reduce noise. Will it be enough for you? Hard to say. Full frame has the advantage here because f1.8 on M43 is, I believe, the equivalent to f3.5 on FF. So even 1.7, which sounds really good, isn't as flexible as it seems.

Are you doing video or just stills? Because if you will rarely be using video, an older generation full frame body might be the direction you want to go for more bokeh and low light performance. I'm looking to get into full frame for stills, and the D750 at $900 and some FX primes would be a very effective setup.
I agree with full frame, but I want to be as light w.r.t size/weight and also want keep cost as minimum being a hobbyist.

Yes, if G9 can reduce my noise levels with the IBIS, it would tick my first check point. But i am still unclear about how bokeh will differ comparing to even an APSC.

I am only focused on stills, but video is good to have. If there is a FF camera/lens combination as light as micro thirds, i will happily jump. But again the setup has to cover all of my scenarios, and i can't afford having multiple systems for different needs. And since dynamic range is also my priority , i think older generation will always be behind with HDR.

I searched but couldn't find a YTube video comparing the bokeh from say a pana 200mm f2.8 prime vs canon 70-200 f2.8 in apsc , keeping all setting identical and accounting for the f number/sensor difference.

As a beginner i am really stuck in the max background compression + bokeh :-)
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Last edited by kmpjon November 18, 2019 at 12:43 PM.

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#68
Quote from nuke142
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Btw g85 incredibly low with kit 12-60. Only ~610.
Not far behind from "new" g9..
It'll be a lot further away when the G9's firmware update arrives though, and it'll push the G95 further into the "why did they sell it at such a high price?" zone.
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#69
Quote from kmpjon
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I agree with full frame, but I want to be as light w.r.t size/weight and also want keep cost as minimum being a hobbyist.

Yes, if G9 can reduce my noise levels with the IBIS, it would tick my first check point. But i am still unclear about how bokeh will differ comparing to even an APSC.

I searched but couldn't find a YTube video comparing the bokeh from say a pana 200mm f2.8 prime vs canon 70-200 f2.8 in apsc , keeping all setting identical and accounting for the f number difference.

As a beginner i am really stuck in the max background compression + bokeh :-)
This page might be useful for you, specifically the graphic with the F-stop chart:

https://www.phototraces.com/photo...top-chart/

M43 is a 2x crop, meaning the focal length of a lens (25mm, 42.5mm, etc.) would be multiplied by 2 to get the full frame equivalent. APS-C is a 1.5x crop, so you'd multiply focal lengths by 1.5 to get the FF equivalent.

Same is true for apertures - 1.8 on a M43 sensor needs to be reduced by 2 stops to get the FF equivalent (if we are talking equivalent focal lengths). So f2 on a M43 goes 2 full stops to f4 on FF.

That is useful for you to determine what kind of aperture you need for the look you want. Finding comparisons of many different apertures on full frame should be easy on YouTube or elsewhere, then you can convert to the equivalent you'd need on M43 to achieve that. Where you will run into problems is if you are wanting the look of f2.8 or less on full frame, you'd have to have f1.4 or lower on M43 which would probably make you end up with a kit that costs more than the FF setup or simply doesn't exist on M43. A cheap f1.8 prime on full frame would require like f.95 on M43, and while there are a few, I don't think any have AF (not to mention image quality or prices).
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Last edited by kdlake November 18, 2019 at 12:50 PM.
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#70
I'd love this combo. I nearly went GX85 + A7ii, but when I looked at the lens prices for FE, it would've just been too much, So I traded my G7 for a G85, which is nice. What made me want to stick with M43 also, was renting a 100-300, putting it on my GX85 and going into a stadium without the "that's a professional camera! You can't bring that in here" that I used to get with a Sony a55 and shitty Tamron 70-200 lens, instead just a "ooh that's a nice camera, enjoy the game!".
Quote from Jarred125
:
I currently own a Sony A7iii and a G9, the A7iii was the most recent purchase. I was going to sell the G9 but I likely will not do that now for a couple of reasons:

1) Going long and lightweight is not really possible on a full frame sensor, lenses are huge for that, just the way it is.
2) The Sony 200-600 is a beautiful lens but is also $2000, you can get a Pana/Leica 100-400 for about $800-1000 cheaper used.

I LOVE the A7iii, low light performance is something you cannot re-create on smaller sensors without some trickery (longer shutters, etc) and those tricks don't fare well for moving subjects.

The G85 compare to the G9: A great camera but the ergo's and IBIS cannot compare.
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#71
Is this a DSLR ? or point and shoot with interchangeable lens
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#72
Quote from ManishM
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Is this a DSLR ? or point and shoot with interchangeable lens
Neither.
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#73
Quote from kdlake
:
This page might be useful for you, specifically the graphic with the F-stop chart:

https://www.phototraces.com/photo...top-chart/ [phototraces.com]

M43 is a 2x crop, meaning the focal length of a lens (25mm, 42.5mm, etc.) would be multiplied by 2 to get the full frame equivalent. APS-C is a 1.5x crop, so you'd multiply focal lengths by 1.5 to get the FF equivalent.

Same is true for apertures - 1.8 on a M43 sensor needs to be reduced by 2 stops to get the FF equivalent (if we are talking equivalent focal lengths). So f2 on a M43 goes 2 full stops to f4 on FF.

That is useful for you to determine what kind of aperture you need for the look you want. Finding comparisons of many different apertures on full frame should be easy on YouTube or elsewhere, then you can convert to the equivalent you'd need on M43 to achieve that. Where you will run into problems is if you are wanting the look of f2.8 or less on full frame, you'd have to have f1.4 or lower on M43 which would probably make you end up with a kit that costs more than the FF setup or simply doesn't exist on M43. A cheap f1.8 prime on full frame would require like f.95 on M43, and while there are a few, I don't think any have AF (not to mention image quality or prices).
Thanks for the link and the idea. I think as you said it is the closest i can get to see how the bokeh will look. I only need the look from an apsc 135 mm f 2.8 or 100 mm f 1.8. I think it will be difficult to get in M43 system, but i will settle for a bit less if i get a relatively lighter / cheaper setup.
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Last edited by kmpjon November 18, 2019 at 01:49 PM.
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#74
Quote from ManishM
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Is this a DSLR ? or point and shoot with interchangeable lens
This is M43 system, advantages being lighter and cheaper gear but compromise will be low light / high ISO images and the bokeh look that is hugely sought after.
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#75
You can get technical all day and have a discussion of full frame vs crop vs m4/3 vs 1inch sensor vs mobile phone cameras and will never satisfy anyone.

I see this way. If you have the funds!! And don't care how much you spend, go full frame. If your budget it's limited and or ergonomics is a priority then forget all the specs and go to a camera shop and feel and test different systems.

Panasonic and fuji are running some great advertising strategies were they partnered with different local cameras shops or local promoters were they have events and lend people their cameras to used them for a couple of hours. Thats is a great strategy in my opinion and thats how lumix got me away from sony.

If you still feel like bokeh is the only thing that matters for your pictures. There are many m4/3 lenses that give some excellent bokeh. You don't only have the lumix lenses line up but all Olympus lenses ( also m4/3 system and yes you can use Olympus lenses on lumix bodies). Their PRO line its top notch opticts ans build. And then you have sigma. Which they make 3 f1.4 (16mm, 30mm, 56mm) lenses for the m 4/3 system. Their 56mm f.14 its a beautiful lens.

Also... the g9 has some excellent body weather sealing.

So far I have a g9, gx85, olympus 40-150pro f2.8, Olympus 45mm f1.8, sigma 56mm f.14, lumix 25mm f1.7. Totaling at roughly $2800 thats pretty much the cost of a Sony a7iii and a prime only.

I tell you all what. Stay away from lumix!! The less the demand the greater the discounts for us m 4/3 users 😁
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