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Ridgid R27401 3"x18" Corded Variable-Speed Belt Sander (Factory Blemished) EXPIRED

$63.15
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Direct Tools Factory Outlet has Ridgid R27401 3" x 18" Corded Variable Speed Belt Sander (Factory Blemished) on sale for $56.13. Shipping is $7. Thanks unknownuser5

Includes
  • Belt Sander
  • Dust Bag
  • Operator's Manual
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Original Post

Written by
Edited June 28, 2020 at 12:23 AM by
FACTORY BLEMISHED - Which coming from Direct Tools Outlet means new.

7 dollar standard shipping rate.

I have used this sander quite a lot and for the price it is a steal. It has automatic belt tracking which none of the sander under $100 does. After using it for hours I did felt some vibrations in my hands but it was not a concerning.

If you have the money and don't mind spending $200+ then Makita belt sanders are obvious choice.

New at Home Depot [homedepot.com] is 119.

https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com...r/p/R27401
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62 Comments

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Joined Dec 2008
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#46
Quote from SkyeC
:
Depends on what you're using it for. Mostly I would say no but occasionally it may fit the bill.

Power planers(hand held usually 3¼) have many uses but maybe the most common one is to remove material from framing before drywall to flatten walls. A belt sander could work but would be a pretty slow way to do it.

Power planers were sold as door planers too at least the one that Rockwell (the original Rockwell not the infomercial imitation multimaster ghost brand of today) had, the idea being that a carpenter could shave off a little bit of wood from a door while hanging it but honestly who hangs doors anymore we all get pregnant(edit- prehung, spell check got me) doors and shaving a little off or putting on a mixrobevel is really better done with a tracksaw anyway.

I use powerplaners for framing and nothing else but imagine other carpenters have other uses. Belt Sanders though are very useful across a lot of different trades
I mainly want to use the power planer to flatten table top and some end table im planning on making. I feel like belt sander may work but I really don't want to sacrifice an extra hour of labor using the sander to save $40
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#47
Quote from the.barbrR
:
I mainly want to use the power planer to flatten table top and some end table im planning on making. I feel like belt sander may work but I really don't want to sacrifice an extra hour of labor using the sander to save $40
Actually a belt sander is much better for that. A powerplaner will dig in on the sides, it's only 3.25inch wide so on either side it will gouge the wood.

A belt sander can help with that task but to be honest it can't really make it flat, it can help to even the seams but perhaps that's what you're looking for.

Are you gluing up boards to make a tabletop and wanting to surface that top? If so you might consider going to woodworking shop that sells shoptime. I live in Portland OR and here we have a shop called creative woodworking, you can take them several boards and ask then to plane and joint them and glue it up and run it through the thickness planer and or thickness sander. They are so well set up for that that it takes maybe 2hrs or so and costs a couple hundred bucks. I imagine there may be other places like that.

Feel free to tell me a little more about your project if you'd like
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#48
Quote from DrewBreeze13
:
I'm hoping to rent a large belt sander from HD to refinish some wood floors but they say it will leave an un-sanded 4" strip at the base of the walls (that's just the closest that particular machine can get.

So my question: would this work well for that remaining 4" strip? Could this work right up to within an inch or so of the wall?
NO! Look at the Black & Decker Dragster Belt Sanders. It's your best bet.
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#49
Quote from SkyeC
:
Actually a belt sander is much better for that. A powerplaner will dig in on the sides, it's only 3.25inch wide so on either side it will gouge the wood.

A belt sander can help with that task but to be honest it can't really make it flat, it can help to even the seams but perhaps that's what you're looking for.

Are you gluing up boards to make a tabletop and wanting to surface that top? If so you might consider going to woodworking shop that sells shoptime. I live in Portland OR and here we have a shop called creative woodworking, you can take them several boards and ask then to plane and joint them and glue it up and run it through the thickness planer and or thickness sander. They are so well set up for that that it takes maybe 2hrs or so and costs a couple hundred bucks. I imagine there may be other places like that.

Feel free to tell me a little more about your project if you'd like
Yes i am gluing up boards for these tops. I already made my jig to "joint" on my tablesaw.

Table is only going to be around 5ft by 3.5ft so may not be too difficult to do myself but I will see. I going to use pine for this first table so not too worried about ruining a board or 2 since they're only ~$4.

If it doesn't work out I will look around for a shop to joint and plane a nice hardwood.
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#50
Quote from the.barbrR
:
Yes i am gluing up boards for these tops. I already made my jig to "joint" on my tablesaw.

Table is only going to be around 5ft by 3.5ft so may not be too difficult to do myself but I will see. I going to use pine for this first table so not too worried about ruining a board or 2 since they're only ~$4.

If it doesn't work out I will look around for a shop to joint and plane a nice hardwood.
Great have fun with it! It sounds like getting a shop to do it would take the fun away rather than take a burden off your hands.

You have your jig already, it sounds like a straight line rip jig. I have a great technique for that but not sure how I'd describe it and it sounds like you're set there anyway.

You know after jointing or straight line ripping the tool you want is a thickness planer, you want to plane to a thickness, a power planer really should be called a hand held jointer as it's just planning a certain amount off if one surface.

Anyway It doesn't matter that much just have fun and remember to pay attention when clamping that the surface is not crowned and that the edges are close enough that you won't be cursing at yourself later when you're surfacing it..

Have fun
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#51
Quote from fitz1015
:
Yes and no. If you're a careful you can get a flat surface but it might not be parallel to the other side. Nothing really takes the place of a true planer.
Even an electric planer, rather than a stand alone planer, will give you a much better surface than any belt sander. Belt sanders are meant for rough work.
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#52
Ordered, thanks OP. I've purchased from DFO at their physical stores before, so I know what to expect and was looking for a good deal on a belt sander.
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#53
Quote from DrewBreeze13
:
I'm hoping to rent a large belt sander from HD to refinish some wood floors but they say it will leave an un-sanded 4" strip at the base of the walls (that's just the closest that particular machine can get.

So my question: would this work well for that remaining 4" strip? Could this work right up to within an inch or so of the wall?
It depends largely on your own tolerance for appearances, so this is a hard question to answer. It's not going to look like a continuation of the floor sander, so you will be tempted to try to even it out so as not to create a visible line.
This can end up like trimming a Christmas tree to get it even, it really doesn't work.
If anything, I would recommend renting a professional edge sander from Lowes or Home Depot or whatever.
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#54
Quote from the.barbrR
:
I mainly want to use the power planer to flatten table top and some end table im planning on making. I feel like belt sander may work but I really don't want to sacrifice an extra hour of labor using the sander to save $40
Quote from SkyeC
:
Actually a belt sander is much better for that. A powerplaner will dig in on the sides, it's only 3.25inch wide so on either side it will gouge the wood.

A belt sander can help with that task but to be honest it can't really make it flat, it can help to even the seams but perhaps that's what you're looking for.

Are you gluing up boards to make a tabletop and wanting to surface that top? If so you might consider going to woodworking shop that sells shoptime. I live in Portland OR and here we have a shop called creative woodworking, you can take them several boards and ask then to plane and joint them and glue it up and run it through the thickness planer and or thickness sander. They are so well set up for that that it takes maybe 2hrs or so and costs a couple hundred bucks. I imagine there may be other places like that.

Feel free to tell me a little more about your project if you'd like
I second SkyeC. The belt sander is the better tool for what you are trying to accomplish. Belt sander with some 40 or 60 grit will hog out some wood about as fast as a planer but give you more control. You can cut through a stud pretty quickly with some 40 grit. I've used them to enlarge openings to make doors and windows fit when the framing is to tight.

Power planer will do just as SkyeC says and dig in and gouge at the edges of the shoe and make a real mess and you will be making a new top. If not the belt sander a actual jack plane would be the tool for the job versus a power planer. I use a power planer quite often for numerous tasks but it is not the tool for what you are trying to do.

You can get some acceptable and very decent flatness with the belt sander. You have to remember people achieved that flatness with just hand planes and some winding sticks and you can do the same with a belt sander.

Another tip do the majority of the flattening and sanding with the belt sander. If you are using a oscillating or hand sanding pine has a tendency to leave ridges and hollows. The soft backing on most oscillating sanding pads will conform to the grain and will take out the lighter softer wood leaving hollows and leave the darker harder grain as ridges. That is minimized by using the flat solid plate of the belt sander. In other worsds get as close possible to your final finish with the belt and then finish off light with a oscillator or by hand. If you do hand sand use hard flat sanding block.
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#55
Sounds like a lot of you don't have the knives set correctly on your power planers laugh out loud
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#56
Bought this, rep given. I've purchased Factory Blemished from DFO's physical stores in the past, so this was an easy hurdle to get over. Can't beat Ridgid's warranty for my money and level of use.
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#57
Quote from JYOSS
:
You can actually register DTO items for the LSA, online. Upload and link your receipt. Typically requires a follow-up email or call.
Did calling allow you to skip mailing in receipt of registration confirmation? Just registered 2 factory blemished and Ridgid shows as incomplete until I mail in receipt or registration confirmation (Certified Mail recommended).
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#58
Quote from the.barbrR
:
Did calling allow you to skip mailing in receipt of registration confirmation? Just registered 2 factory blemished and Ridgid shows as incomplete until I mail in receipt or registration confirmation (Certified Mail recommended).
So I'm not sure whether or not the uploaded registration would've ultimately completed without reaching out. I can only say that I've never had an issue completing the online registration when following with a call/email a week or so after submitting.
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#59
any one else having delivery issues on this> I got the email saying it was shipped but when tracked its stuck at label created. Called DT and they said Fedex has been sitting on some packages and they are trying to get them to send them out... a bit irritating
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#60
Quote from mikebalt
:
any one else having delivery issues on this> I got the email saying it was shipped but when tracked its stuck at label created. Called DT and they said Fedex has been sitting on some packages and they are trying to get them to send them out... a bit irritating
I got the same email saying it was shipped on 6/28. It's now 7/2. Emailed their customer service so we'll see what happens.
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