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Creality CR-10 V2 3D Printer - $349.00 No Tax, Free US Shipping: Live Again

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Just ordered 1 for myself...

Use code "ZPSB02" for $103 dollars off a CR-10 V2 3D printer from Creality.

$452 - $103 = $349.00.


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https://www.creality3dofficial.co...3881284681
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#16
Quote from malka :
I ordered this Sunday. It was shipped by Amazon and arrived today. I currently have it set up and printing. It did take more than the 5 minutes one review said it took to set up. But my kids were able to do most of it, just needing help to get a screw to fit into a hole that wasn't sized quite right, and getting some wires connected in a tight spot. They quickly disappeared when it was time to level it.

I ordered a spool of PLA from Amazon which also arrived today, because I read that the one it ships with isn't so good, but so far it seems fine. A self-leveling thingamajig is likely in my future just because I don't want to fiddle with it so much.

I was debating between this and holding out for another deal on the Ender 3 pro. As much as I enjoy putting things together, I'm short on time and patience these days, and buying one requiring less effort on my part to get started seemed worth the tradeoff. There's nothing I want to buy immediately, while with the Ender 3 pro there were mods I would have wanted to make right away.
Appreciate your post regarding delivery lead-times and the comparison versus the Ender 3 Pro. Our printer ownership experience will be similar once our CR10 arrives and now can manage our own expectations with your post. Thanks again!
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#17
Quote from connordog :
...I think, even in hindsight, the Ender 3 Pro/V2 the right 1st machine to purchase if you're thinking of printing smaller items that can fit within the print-size constraints. Additionally, the support community is massive and you'll be extremely reliant on their information to help you work through the learning curve.

There are workarounds to printing larger items...such as learning to split large objects into multiple smaller pieces using tools such as Meshmixer or Tinkercad. And that's really the point of my response; learning workarounds and solutioning for problems you'll encounter will be a requirement to enjoy this hobby.

I don't want to scare you off. 3d printers can be addictive. Many end up buying multiples, each functioning to serve as specific purpose such as printing only large prints or only small prints or printing specialty filaments, etc. We haven't had any significant issues and encounter primarily adhesion issues and finding the right print profiles to minimize globs, stringing, etc. Because the Ender 3 community is huge, we quickly found printing profiles for 28mm mining prints and well as printing PETG with little effort on Youtube.

Good luckSmilie
Wow. Solid feedback. Thanks. And as I do more research, I'm finding this is a hobby that can lead to a never ending tunnel of costs.

My main purpose is to print some arcade lcd frames for mini arcade mods I do. I'm currently cutting pieces of wood and painting it. The size of the bezel I use is near the max size of the 3v2. If I ever plan to make larger mods, I will be limited.

Looks like I have some more research to do. 🤦 ♂️
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#18
I have an Ender 3 V2. I love it. I just want a bigger print volume to do full size helmets without cutting. Worth it or hold out for the others. Willing to spend $500. What is the best I can get for $500
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#19
Quote from Sonicpride :
Wow. Solid feedback. Thanks. And as I do more research, I'm finding this is a hobby that can lead to a never ending tunnel of costs.

My main purpose is to print some arcade lcd frames for mini arcade mods I do. I'm currently cutting pieces of wood and painting it. The size of the bezel I use is near the max size of the 3v2. If I ever plan to make larger mods, I will be limited.

Looks like I have some more research to do. 🤦 ♂️
Might be a local makerspace or library close that has a 3D printer you can use to see if it meets your needs. That way you could try a 3D printed part first unless of course you're wanting to get into the hobby(which I agree can be addictive). I've had folks come into our makerspace before wanting to 3D print a part, then discover there's another method of making it that fits their needs better (like using a lasercutter or desktop CNC).
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#20
What is everyones thoughts regarding full enclosed units compared to one like this. I have a kid on the way so definitely trying to contain as much fumes as possible or reduce any issues from not have an enclosure (if thats the point of it).
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#21
Quote from qiuzman :
What is everyones thoughts regarding full enclosed units compared to one like this. I have a kid on the way so definitely trying to contain as much fumes as possible or reduce any issues from not have an enclosure (if thats the point of it).
It really depends on your use, and in particular the type of plastic you want to use. PLA, PETG, and ABS are three of the more common plastics. PLA has very little fume issue, PETG a little bit more, ABS a lot more. Enclosures also help with heat control (which is more important for ABS, less for PLA, and PETG somewhere near the middle).

PLA is super great for a large variety of things... as long as they don't have to get too warm or take too much of a beating. If you're planning on making parts that have to take impact/stress or survive in the sun or other very warm environment, you'll likely want to use PETG or ABS. PLA will warp in a dishwasher, for example.

The good news is for the price difference between this and some of the enclosed units, you can build your own enclosure if you ever decide to use more advanced/gassy plastics like PETG and ABS.
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#22
Quote from qiuzman :
What is everyones thoughts regarding full enclosed units compared to one like this. I have a kid on the way so definitely trying to contain as much fumes as possible or reduce any issues from not have an enclosure (if thats the point of it).
The first time we powered up our Ender 3 Pro we did smell a very strong plastic odor...as it was burning off something. That odor went away within a few hours and after printing 100hrs+
it's never been that intense. That being said, I do still sense the smallest odor every once in a while...after all, a variety of chemicals are being melted and extruded at high temperatures. I can't imagine the effect on our bodies to be neutral, especially immature ones.

I have no empirical evidence to prove/disprove the continued exposure to active 3d printers is good or bad, but I do know you've only got one opportunity for those little bodies to grow right so in my opinion, and in a similar situation, I'd find a separated, different venue or wait to join the 3d printing community. They grow so quickly odds are you'll regret not having spent more time with them those first few years anyway. I also doubt you'll have wished, laying on your deathbed, to have spent more time 3d printingWink
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#23
Quote from TriniMan :
I just ordered one. Commented on the previous post. Code worked. Thanks.

Now that I've ordered this printer (my first 3D printer), what products do I need to order so I can start using it when it show up?😱
Thanks in advance.
do yourself a HUGE favor and setup Octoprint to the printer.. it truly is awesome. Do some Google research, you'll love it.
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Last edited by jugernot January 29, 2021 at 07:02 PM.
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#24
Quote from connordog :
Our first, and 1-month old Creality Ender 3 Pro experience has been extremely positive and led to our purchase of this CR-10s. That being said, here's my suggestion..

1) Don't go out and buy a bunch of things you 'think' you need; items commonly known as 'mods' and/or 'upgrades'.
2) Learn to print consistently well with just this printer by leveraging online resources such as youtube videos or other websites that give you tips to print well.
2.a) Learn how to manually level the print bed, watch the first layers go down, make a visual note in your mind what those first lines of goo need to look like. The most common issue we have is adhesion. Don't be afraid to use 'rafts' and slim them down if you wish to minimize waste. We also wipe down our magnetic surface regularly with isopropyl alcohol (IPA).
2.b) print a bunch of small items first to test the config and printer hardware setup and minimize waste if you have issues.
3) Don't automatically assume you have a hardware problem. Assume 1st you've got a configuration problem. Every print consistency issue we've had was profile-related (i.e. settings in the Slicer (like Cura)).
4) Find the cheapest resources for quality filament. We use Inland PLA+ filament from Microcenter. They offer a ridiculous variety of colors for $19+tx shipped.
5) Buy a cheap wireless camera to monitor the print if you're not near the printer to monitor progress/problems.

We did add items to our printer but not by buying them, but rather printing them. 1) a tool holder 2) a storage box 3) and an arm that keeps a nice even bend of the filament leading to the feeder (which you probably won't need).

Good luckhttps://static.slickdealscdn.com/ima...lies/smile.gif
Great tips. To add to this, a raspberry pi and OctoPrint is also almost a must have. It makes configuring, monitoring, and managing print files so much better. You can use your camera for remote viewing and taking print timelapses with Oktolapse. Awesome tool! So far I love my CR-10 V2!
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#25
Quote from TriniMan :
I just ordered one. Commented on the previous post. Code worked. Thanks.

Now that I've ordered this printer (my first 3D printer), what products do I need to order so I can start using it when it show up?😱
Thanks in advance.
Also a 3D printer newbie here. I was drawn in by the Ender 3 V2 but decided to get the CR 10 V2 instead. I ordered back on 1/19 with this discount code and received the printer a few days ago. I've done a few prints, watched a lot of youtube videos, and decided on some simple improvements.

First and foremost, to echo what others have said, don't jump in and buy things just because some youtube video raves about it. There are lists of "best upgrades" out there, I am not sure they are all that valuable. I strongly recommend taking the time to do a proper setup.

1. Mounting the vertical frame to the horizontal frame, the four screws have some play, make sure to put some pressure on the joint in the same direction on both sides so that the vertical frame is not canted at an angle on the X-axis.

2. Installing the stabilizer rods, build them to exactly the same length and make sure the eyelets match the center of the screw holes. With the screws loose, the rods should jiggle freely and not have any tension. They are there to provide stability when the screws are tightened, not to pull the vertical frame one way or the other.

3. After assembly and powering the printer on, leveling the gantry is your first job, nothing else matters. The gantry is the horizontal bar that the hot end (print head) sits on. This needs to be absolutely horizontal when referenced to the frame. There are gantry leveling blocks you can print, but you can't print those because your printer is not setup yet. Ha! What you can do is find two of something around the house that has the same exact height and can fit under the gantry to serve as leveling blocks, maybe some lego pieces. If the gantry refuses to stay level with the stepper motors powered off, you need to fix the assembly of the gantry. Refer to this video: https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w?t=730

4. Step 3 is really important and there is no point in doing anything else until you have a level gantry. Most people's frustrations with their printer not staying level is because their gantry is not level.

5. After leveling the gantry, do an auto-home proceed to level the bed using this gantry height. Leveling the bed takes place with the steppers powered off, so if your gantry won't stay level, there is no point in leveling the bed. When leveling the bed, preheat it to 50 degrees. It makes things much easier to place the print nozzle directly above each adjustment screw when checking the clearance at that corner to minimize the lever effect. Also, note that the bed will be slightly higher in between the adjustment screws because of flex. Once you have the nozzle dialed-in directly above each adjustment screw, check the space in between and you'll likely have to back off one notch on the two adjustment screws flanking the center point.

6. Instead of using the Creality Slicer, I just went and installed Cura 4.8. Creality Slicer is a "customized" version of Cura and I am not aware of any special benefits of using the Creality Slicer. In the printer selection, there is no CR-10 V2, just pick CR-10S.

7. Next thing you need to do is calibrate the extruder. This is to make sure that the extruder is feeding the correct amount of filament. My printer was feeding 92mm when it was commanded to feed 100mm, so I adjusted the Estep/mm to 101 instead of 93 that it came configured as. There are tutorials on how to do this calibration so I won't describe it here. Just do it!

That's really it. Download Benchy, use the generic PLA profile in Cura, and print it! Wait for Benchy to completely cool before trying to remove it. It will release by itself when it is properly cooled.

The above is the current state of my printer, completely stock. After a few prints, I've decided on some simple mods:

- BLTouch auto bed leveling. Actually, I ordered this with my printer. It just hasn't arrived yet. Now that I have the gantry and bed leveled, I am not sure how much value this would be.

- Z-axis sync belt and pulley. While my gantry does stay leveled when powered off, it can go out of level if I bump the printer. The sync belt and pulley will prevent this.

- Capricorn XS feed tube. I don't plan to replace the whole feed tube, just the part in the hot end since Capricorn XS has a much higher melting temperature than regular teflon. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw This improves the longevity of the feed tube while avoiding the binding issues of the Capricorn XS feed tube due to its smaller bore diameter. Buy the Capricorn tube directly from Capricorn, there are lot of fakes out there.

- Silent cooling fan mod, because the stock fans are noisy. Not sure which fan holder design I am going to print yet but it will definitely be two 120mm silent fans on the bottom of the control box.

That's it.
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#26
Quote from blahblahyoutoo :
upgraded springs was a must for my ender 3 v2, YMMV.
Amen, brother/sister
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#27
Quote from MaxRC :
Also a 3D printer newbie here. I was drawn in by the Ender 3 V2 but decided to get the CR 10 V2 instead. I ordered back on 1/19 with this discount code and received the printer a few days ago. I've done a few prints, watched a lot of youtube videos, and decided on some simple improvements.

First and foremost, to echo what others have said, don't jump in and buy things just because some youtube video raves about it. There are lists of "best upgrades" out there, I am not sure they are all that valuable. I strongly recommend taking the time to do a proper setup.

1. Mounting the vertical frame to the horizontal frame, the four screws have some play, make sure to put some pressure on the joint in the same direction on both sides so that the vertical frame is not canted at an angle on the X-axis.

2. Installing the stabilizer rods, build them to exactly the same length and make sure the eyelets match the center of the screw holes. With the screws loose, the rods should jiggle freely and not have any tension. They are there to provide stability when the screws are tightened, not to pull the vertical frame one way or the other.

3. After assembly and powering the printer on, leveling the gantry is your first job, nothing else matters. The gantry is the horizontal bar that the hot end (print head) sits on. This needs to be absolutely horizontal when referenced to the frame. There are gantry leveling blocks you can print, but you can't print those because your printer is not setup yet. Ha! What you can do is find two of something around the house that has the same exact height and can fit under the gantry to serve as leveling blocks, maybe some lego pieces. If the gantry refuses to stay level with the stepper motors powered off, you need to fix the assembly of the gantry. Refer to this video: https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w?t=730

4. Step 3 is really important and there is no point in doing anything else until you have a level gantry. Most people's frustrations with their printer not staying level is because their gantry is not level.

5. After leveling the gantry, do an auto-home proceed to level the bed using this gantry height. Leveling the bed takes place with the steppers powered off, so if your gantry won't stay level, there is no point in leveling the bed. When leveling the bed, preheat it to 50 degrees. It makes things much easier to place the print nozzle directly above each adjustment screw when checking the clearance at that corner to minimize the lever effect. Also, note that the bed will be slightly higher in between the adjustment screws because of flex. Once you have the nozzle dialed-in directly above each adjustment screw, check the space in between and you'll likely have to back off one notch on the two adjustment screws flanking the center point.

6. Instead of using the Creality Slicer, I just went and installed Cura 4.8. Creality Slicer is a "customized" version of Cura and I am not aware of any special benefits of using the Creality Slicer. In the printer selection, there is no CR-10 V2, just pick CR-10S.

7. Next thing you need to do is calibrate the extruder. This is to make sure that the extruder is feeding the correct amount of filament. My printer was feeding 92mm when it was commanded to feed 100mm, so I adjusted the Estep/mm to 101 instead of 93 that it came configured as. There are tutorials on how to do this calibration so I won't describe it here. Just do it!

That's really it. Download Benchy, use the generic PLA profile in Cura, and print it! Wait for Benchy to completely cool before trying to remove it. It will release by itself when it is properly cooled.

The above is the current state of my printer, completely stock. After a few prints, I've decided on some simple mods:

- BLTouch auto bed leveling. Actually, I ordered this with my printer. It just hasn't arrived yet. Now that I have the gantry and bed leveled, I am not sure how much value this would be.

- Z-axis sync belt and pulley. While my gantry does stay leveled when powered off, it can go out of level if I bump the printer. The sync belt and pulley will prevent this.

- Capricorn XS feed tube. I don't plan to replace the whole feed tube, just the part in the hot end since Capricorn XS has a much higher melting temperature than regular teflon. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw This improves the longevity of the feed tube while avoiding the binding issues of the Capricorn XS feed tube due to its smaller bore diameter. Buy the Capricorn tube directly from Capricorn, there are lot of fakes out there.

- Silent cooling fan mod, because the stock fans are noisy. Not sure which fan holder design I am going to print yet but it will definitely be two 120mm silent fans on the bottom of the control box.

That's it.
Very good information. Regarding the BLTouch, all print beds have in​ac​cu​ra​cies (e.g. warped, uneven, and/or unlevel bed). That's why it can be a good idea to use a BLTouch, as it adjusts the extruder carriage for those inac​cu​ra​cies.
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Last edited by RaptorClaw592 January 29, 2021 at 10:50 AM.
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#28
Quote from fbueller :
Over this I'd get the Ender 5 Pro for a similar price
Providing your reasons as to why would actually be useful.

Why?

I dont own either (have a ender3pro) but in all of my research, the CR was recommend over the Ender 5 in EVER comparison/discussion with many reasons.
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Last edited by 95m3ltw January 29, 2021 at 01:40 PM.
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#29
Quote from MaxRC :
Also a 3D printer newbie here. I was drawn in by the Ender 3 V2 but decided to get the CR 10 V2 instead. I ordered back on 1/19 with this discount code and received the printer a few days ago. I've done a few prints, watched a lot of youtube videos, and decided on some simple improvements.

First and foremost, to echo what others have said, don't jump in and buy things just because some youtube video raves about it. There are lists of "best upgrades" out there, I am not sure they are all that valuable. I strongly recommend taking the time to do a proper setup.

1. Mounting the vertical frame to the horizontal frame, the four screws have some play, make sure to put some pressure on the joint in the same direction on both sides so that the vertical frame is not canted at an angle on the X-axis.

2. Installing the stabilizer rods, build them to exactly the same length and make sure the eyelets match the center of the screw holes. With the screws loose, the rods should jiggle freely and not have any tension. They are there to provide stability when the screws are tightened, not to pull the vertical frame one way or the other.

3. After assembly and powering the printer on, leveling the gantry is your first job, nothing else matters. The gantry is the horizontal bar that the hot end (print head) sits on. This needs to be absolutely horizontal when referenced to the frame. There are gantry leveling blocks you can print, but you can't print those because your printer is not setup yet. Ha! What you can do is find two of something around the house that has the same exact height and can fit under the gantry to serve as leveling blocks, maybe some lego pieces. If the gantry refuses to stay level with the stepper motors powered off, you need to fix the assembly of the gantry. Refer to this video: https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w?t=730

4. Step 3 is really important and there is no point in doing anything else until you have a level gantry. Most people's frustrations with their printer not staying level is because their gantry is not level.

5. After leveling the gantry, do an auto-home proceed to level the bed using this gantry height. Leveling the bed takes place with the steppers powered off, so if your gantry won't stay level, there is no point in leveling the bed. When leveling the bed, preheat it to 50 degrees. It makes things much easier to place the print nozzle directly above each adjustment screw when checking the clearance at that corner to minimize the lever effect. Also, note that the bed will be slightly higher in between the adjustment screws because of flex. Once you have the nozzle dialed-in directly above each adjustment screw, check the space in between and you'll likely have to back off one notch on the two adjustment screws flanking the center point.

6. Instead of using the Creality Slicer, I just went and installed Cura 4.8. Creality Slicer is a "customized" version of Cura and I am not aware of any special benefits of using the Creality Slicer. In the printer selection, there is no CR-10 V2, just pick CR-10S.

7. Next thing you need to do is calibrate the extruder. This is to make sure that the extruder is feeding the correct amount of filament. My printer was feeding 92mm when it was commanded to feed 100mm, so I adjusted the Estep/mm to 101 instead of 93 that it came configured as. There are tutorials on how to do this calibration so I won't describe it here. Just do it!

That's really it. Download Benchy, use the generic PLA profile in Cura, and print it! Wait for Benchy to completely cool before trying to remove it. It will release by itself when it is properly cooled.

The above is the current state of my printer, completely stock. After a few prints, I've decided on some simple mods:

- BLTouch auto bed leveling. Actually, I ordered this with my printer. It just hasn't arrived yet. Now that I have the gantry and bed leveled, I am not sure how much value this would be.

- Z-axis sync belt and pulley. While my gantry does stay leveled when powered off, it can go out of level if I bump the printer. The sync belt and pulley will prevent this.

- Capricorn XS feed tube. I don't plan to replace the whole feed tube, just the part in the hot end since Capricorn XS has a much higher melting temperature than regular teflon. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw This improves the longevity of the feed tube while avoiding the binding issues of the Capricorn XS feed tube due to its smaller bore diameter. Buy the Capricorn tube directly from Capricorn, there are lot of fakes out there.

- Silent cooling fan mod, because the stock fans are noisy. Not sure which fan holder design I am going to print yet but it will definitely be two 120mm silent fans on the bottom of the control box.

That's it.
Awesome advice and much appreciated! My CR-10 V2 order is on its way and the advice regarding the leveling of the gantry is spot-on. Looking forward to building with your guidance. Thanks again!
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#30
what are the main differences between this and the CR-10S that is $379?
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