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TP-Link HS210 3-Way Smart WiFi Light Switch Kit EXPIRED

$33
$44.99
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Amazon has TP-Link HS210 3-Way Smart WiFi Light Switch Kit (HS210 KIT) on sale for $32.99. Shipping is free.

B&H Photo Video has TP-Link HS210 3-Way Smart WiFi Light Switch Kit (HS210 KIT) on sale for $32.99. Shipping is free.

Newegg has TP-Link HS210 3-Way Smart WiFi Light Switch Kit (HS210 KIT) on sale for $32.99. Shipping is free.

Thanks to community member tward392 for finding this deal.

About this product:
  • This Smart Switch Kit makes it easy to replace 3-way switches common in living rooms, stairways, and halls.
  • No Hub required; connects to standard home Wi-Fi 2.4GHz networks supported by most routers.
  • Two smart switches included.
  • UL certified
  • Compatible with voice control home automation setups using Amazon Alexa and/or Google Assistant.
  • Includes:
    • 2x Smart Light Switch (3-Way)
    • 2x Wall Plates
    • 4x Wire Nuts
    • 1x Quick Start Guide

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  • About this deal:
    • This deal is $12 off (27% savings) the retail list price of $44.99.
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    • This product qualifies for Amazon's Free return policy.
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Edited April 13, 2021 at 06:14 AM by
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...0DER&psc=1

Easy guided install: Neutral wire is required, standard wall plate size. No need to understand complex switch wiring or master vs auxiliary switch configurations; The Kasa app guides you through easy step by step installation. For non-dimmable lights, 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi connection required
3-way or single pole: Using it as 3-way or single pole switch to control the light from 1 or 2 locations to replace your traditional 3-way switch. Best for top and bottom of a staircase or from house to garage etc
Control from anywhere & voice control: Monitor your lights status. Turn electronics on and off from anywhere with your smartphone using the Kasa app, whether you are at home, in the office or on vacation. Enjoy the hands-free convenience of controlling the lights in your home with your voice via Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant
Scheduling: Use timer or countdown schedules to set your smart switch to automatically turn on and off while you're home or away. Enable 'away mode' to randomly switch on and off to trick potential intruders
Trusted and reliable: Designed and developed in silicon valley, Kasa is trusted by over 4 million users. UL certified for safety use. 2-year warranty
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This is not true and this isn't how a 3-way switch works. A correctly wired 3 way switch will both have a hot lead to them and they would both have power. I can confirm you only need 1 smart switch and you can replace them in either "position" and they will work fine.
Guys a three way switch isn't all that complicated however there are a number of ways they are wired depending upon the code and if the electrician cut corners. If you are not sure how it is wired, hire a professional.

There are four wires in this setup that are needed. The first is green or ground. Depending upon your box if it's metal it needs to be grounded to the box and back to the ground/neutral bus. If the box is plastic the green wire goes to the bare wire back to the ground subpanel or neutral in the service panel. This should never carry amperage/current unless for fault.

The next is the neutral or white conductor. This is the return wire to complete the circuit back to the neutral bus. Without this you don't have a circuit. The neutral should be common to both boxes back to the panel. Now this is where it gets complex because there may be mwbc and some electricians use the neutral wire as the traveler for the 3 way. This can confuse many.

Ok the last circuit lead in a normal circuit is hot or black. This originates from the panel to a branch circuit never to share like a neutral. To properly wire this setup at a minimum the smart switch must be connected upstream to the black wire from the panel. Period. The second switch downstream of this can be smart or not. If you mix this up it won't work correctly.

Now with a three way switch there is also a traveler which of you think about it is the communication wire between the two switches and one of the two will be hot depending upon the pole position. Now in most cases this runs through a red wire on a 12 or 14/3 wire 4 wires bit sometimes electricians will use normal 14/12/2 and they are supposed to mark with tape the traveler which will then be white but HOT. That is not supposed to be done that way because you sacrifice neutral but for a terminal location it is ok. good luck with the electrician doing that tho, so of you only see three wires in the box be very careful as the neutral wire may be hot.

So if you don't know how this is wired in the box or what's up, hire a professional.

also it is a mistake to think the neutral doesn't carry current (the white). when the circuit is energized the neutral will carry the load current and you can be electrocuted by it. ac current runs through the entire energized circuit.
You should always always always use Ground wire.

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#3
Does this require a grounding wire?
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#4
Quote from hurikaneman :
Does this require a grounding wire?
Yes. It requires both ground and neutral.
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04-12-2021 at 08:31 AM
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#6
Quote from OzJodo :
From the product Q&A:

Q:Is it necessary to replace both switches in a 3-way circuit with smart wireless switches?

Answer this question
A: In 3way switch setup, power goes into 1st switch, through 2nd switch then to the light. The smart switch must be the 1st switch. If you put the smart switch 2nd, it will have power only when the 1st manual switch is in 1 position, and lose power when the manual switch is other position. So, technically, you only need one smart switch for 3-way switching to be functional; but you must put the smart switch as the 1st switch. see less


Thomas-Quy Nguyen · 4 months ago
This is not true and this isn't how a 3-way switch works. A correctly wired 3 way switch will both have a hot lead to them and they would both have power. I can confirm you only need 1 smart switch and you can replace them in either "position" and they will work fine.
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#7
Quote from hurikaneman :
Does this require a grounding wire?
You should always always always use Ground wire.
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#8
Quote from borodin1 :
Yes. It requires both ground and neutral.
Yes thank you, sorry, I meant neutral.
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#9
Quote from ChakkDay :
You should always always always use Ground wire.
Yes, sorry, I meant neutral, thank you.
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#10
Quote from OzJodo :
From the product Q&A:

Q:Is it necessary to replace both switches in a 3-way circuit with smart wireless switches?

Answer this question
A: In 3way switch setup, power goes into 1st switch, through 2nd switch then to the light. The smart switch must be the 1st switch. If you put the smart switch 2nd, it will have power only when the 1st manual switch is in 1 position, and lose power when the manual switch is other position. So, technically, you only need one smart switch for 3-way switching to be functional; but you must put the smart switch as the 1st switch. see less


Thomas-Quy Nguyen · 4 months ago



Please skip the mumbo jumbo.


Simple answer is you can only replace one of the 3-ways with this and it works. I have done at least 10 in my house.


So you can use one set of this for 2 pairs of 3-ways.
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#11
Quote from iDroid :
This is not true and this isn't how a 3-way switch works. A correctly wired 3 way switch will both have a hot lead to them and they would both have power. I can confirm you only need 1 smart switch and you can replace them in either "position" and they will work fine.
I have a 3 way switch that does not have a permanent hot lead. It has a 3 wire + ground going into it and the common wire swaps from hot to off depending on the other switch, which means the common is going to load and the load is not hot. I guess we can argue about whether my 3 way switch is "correctly wired" or not, but the fact of the matter is that what you have described with the hot lead going to both boxes is not a physical requirement for a 3 way switch to work.

Maybe code requirements in your area require both boxes to have a hot lead, so you're fortunate to have that flexibility.

Edit: Gah now I look at the wiring diagram for the switch and it doesn't require a permanent hot. So yes in that case it should be able to go into any switch... my bad

Edit x2: It can go into any switch AS LONG AS YOU HAVE A NEUTRAL... which the switch I describe above does not. Sad panda...
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Last edited by OzJodo April 12, 2021 at 03:25 PM.
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#12
Quote from iDroid :
This is not true and this isn't how a 3-way switch works. A correctly wired 3 way switch will both have a hot lead to them and they would both have power. I can confirm you only need 1 smart switch and you can replace them in either "position" and they will work fine.
This is false. Thomas Nguyen's quote is accurate if your wiring is per code.

One of the 3-ways will have power from the panel, the other will not. You can install this switch in the side that has power and it will work fine. If you find that the smart switch powers off when you flip the other switch, you need to swap it's location with the dumb switch.
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#13
Quote from Ditch :
This is false. Thomas Nguyen's quote is accurate if your wiring is per code.

One of the 3-ways will have power from the panel, the other will not. You can install this switch in the side that has power and it will work fine. If you find that the smart switch powers off when you flip the other switch, you need to swap it's location with the dumb switch.
Guys a three way switch isn't all that complicated however there are a number of ways they are wired depending upon the code and if the electrician cut corners. If you are not sure how it is wired, hire a professional.

There are four wires in this setup that are needed. The first is green or ground. Depending upon your box if it's metal it needs to be grounded to the box and back to the ground/neutral bus. If the box is plastic the green wire goes to the bare wire back to the ground subpanel or neutral in the service panel. This should never carry amperage/current unless for fault.

The next is the neutral or white conductor. This is the return wire to complete the circuit back to the neutral bus. Without this you don't have a circuit. The neutral should be common to both boxes back to the panel. Now this is where it gets complex because there may be mwbc and some electricians use the neutral wire as the traveler for the 3 way. This can confuse many.

Ok the last circuit lead in a normal circuit is hot or black. This originates from the panel to a branch circuit never to share like a neutral. To properly wire this setup at a minimum the smart switch must be connected upstream to the black wire from the panel. Period. The second switch downstream of this can be smart or not. If you mix this up it won't work correctly.

Now with a three way switch there is also a traveler which of you think about it is the communication wire between the two switches and one of the two will be hot depending upon the pole position. Now in most cases this runs through a red wire on a 12 or 14/3 wire 4 wires bit sometimes electricians will use normal 14/12/2 and they are supposed to mark with tape the traveler which will then be white but HOT. That is not supposed to be done that way because you sacrifice neutral but for a terminal location it is ok. good luck with the electrician doing that tho, so of you only see three wires in the box be very careful as the neutral wire may be hot.

So if you don't know how this is wired in the box or what's up, hire a professional.

also it is a mistake to think the neutral doesn't carry current (the white). when the circuit is energized the neutral will carry the load current and you can be electrocuted by it. ac current runs through the entire energized circuit.
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Last edited by elefante72 April 13, 2021 at 06:54 AM.
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#14
Quote from hurikaneman :
Does this require a grounding wire?
10000 times this question asked...Applause...

and most of the time its always the first reply to the thread..hehehehe
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#15
There are lots of different ways your lighting can be wired and called [and function as] a 3 way switch. Much depends on when it was installed, the age of the installer, the frugality of the installer, if it was going to be inspected, if it was 'new work' or existing walls, and the physical layout of where stuff in relation to other stuff.

Here are 9 different options as to how it could be wired:
https://www.easy-do-it-yourself-h...agram.html

Take a volt meter and/or stick power detector (inexpensive and available here often), pull the switches from the wall, and inventory what wires you have, and what is hot when (each phase, switch A up, switch B up, switch AB up, all down). Reference the diagrams and determine what will work (or post here for some tips)
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