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TP-Link Kasa Smart 3-Way WiFi Light Switch

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Amazon has TP-Link Kasa Smart 3-Way WiFi Light Switch (HS210) on sale for $16.61. Shipping is free with Prime or on orders of $25 or more.

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Edited July 26, 2021 at 02:49 PM by
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Created 07-05-2021 at 08:47 AM by sr71
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Questions & Answers BETA
TheFlyingGyro asked this question on 07-06-2021 at 09:33 AM
07-06-2021 at 09:33 AM
One could be smart 3way switch and another would be fine if it stays as its actual switch. Since one side does have smart connection it will work as expected 👍🏼
07-06-2021 at 02:32 PM
https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/faq/2009/

Only one smart switch is needed.
The other switch can be a dumb 3 way switch.

So you only need to upgrade a single switch, the first switch.
hydroaqua asked this question on 07-06-2021 at 09:33 AM
07-06-2021 at 09:33 AM
Technically yes, although its not a particularly safe installation. Hope you aren't thinking about using the ground as a neutral, that's a definite no-no.
oferher asked this question on 07-06-2021 at 09:33 AM
07-06-2021 at 07:26 PM
Yes, but only for 3 switches config as you will need to replace the 2 3-way switches and leave the 4-way untouched. For 4 or more switches config you need to use other brand that offers 4-way switches.
CaBabylili asked this question on 07-08-2021 at 11:45 AM
07-14-2021 at 08:13 AM
Yes

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#91
Quote from tebasaki :
"15A switch will burn without 20A fuse ever noticing it. They must break first to protect the rest. If they don't, they are no more a protection. If you want to use 15A switch you have to protect it with at most 15A rated fuse/breaker."

There's probably a reason why you have a 20amp circuit there. If your load is only going to be under 15amp then that's fine, but usually the odds are that there's something with a heavier pull on it, and that could be dangerous.
15A switches have a 20A pass through, they're commonly used on 20A circuits (12g wire,20A breaker).

The load on the switch has a max od 15A.
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#92
Quote from AudioMike :
15A switches have a 20A pass through, they're commonly used on 20A circuits (12g wire,20A breaker).

The load on the switch has a max od 15A.
Got kasa documentation on this?
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#93
I had an entire house of 20 amp breakers with 12 gauge wire and 15amp outlets and light switches. That's how it was done. Search Google for 15 amp swith on a 20 amp breaker. Here's a memo from Legrand. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&s...6306037877

If your switch is switching more than it's rating of 15A, that is the risk. Code specifically allows this on branches and it is practiced. You may not want to believe it but it is and you will find nothing other than opinions and misinformation that say otherwise.

I have an Intermatic occupancy switch rated for switching 500 watts incedescent lights. There are no 5 amp breakers and circuits in anyone's house and no way it would be on a 5 amp circuit.
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Last edited by nolife July 14, 2021 at 08:34 PM.
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#94
Quote from tebasaki :
Got kasa documentation on this?
On these switches, there is no 'pass through', so it can't be used like that.

Each live/neutral is it's on connection to a wire nut (shudder) or a WAGO.

NEC code allows 15A switches and sockets on 20 Amp sockets, other conditions apply.​
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#95
Quote from nolife :
I have no idea what you are saying. Many houses with 20amp circuits/12 gauge wiring are 100% fitted with 15 amp receptacles and 15 amp light switches. That is NORMAL. One way to look at this is breakers/fuses are more or less to protect the wire itself from overheating and being overloaded. Wires travel in the "wild" through open spaces, through wood, around insulation etc except in places where code requires conduit but that has its own rules and again, mainly focused on heat build up in that wire in the conduit. A switch and an outlet is in a "box". Nothing prevents you from taking your 20amp breaker/12 gauge wire circuit and replacing the breaker with a 15amp one if it makes you feel better.

If you plan on using a light switch to control an actual 20amp load then yes, by all means use a 20 amp switch but I bet that light is on a dedicated circuit only for that light or it should be. You pick a switch that will support the load it is switching, not the upstream breaker. This specific switch has a rating:

Supported Load Types:
100-120V~ 15A max, Res
100-120V~ 5A, Incandescent
100-120V~ 5A, Electronic Fluorescent Ballast
It looks like someone on Amazon says the manual shows a 15A maximum, so use at your own risk!
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#96
Quote from tebasaki :
It looks like someone on Amazon says the manual shows a 15A maximum, so use at your own risk!
That's from the product manual. For what it's worth.. That's the spec for what it can safely control and switch on/off.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images...dN2ylS.pdf
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Last edited by nolife July 15, 2021 at 08:57 AM.
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#97
Right, so since we're dealing with electricity and safety, sticking a 15A circuit with a 15A switch only will be best for your health.
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#98
Quote from aerohunter :
Sharing my experience identifying the "Neutral" wire. It is not always WHITE.

I open up and check my 3 way switch and saw a WHITE wire before purchasing. I saw the WHITE wire and thinking I am good to go. Oh boy, was I wrong and spend 5 hours correcting my mistake. I did not know that the WHITE wire in my 3 way switch was actually a traveler and there was no NEUTRAL wire at all. To make matter worst, I did not properly label the wires, so I could not put the wire/switch back to the original working (3 way switch) set up. To top it all, I broke my one of my original 3 way switch in the process of trying to restore it back to what it was.

I spend most of the time to realize that my 3 way wires were not connected in conventional colors schemes and that I actually DO NOT have a NEUTRAL wire, then learn how to properly wire my 3 way switch back to original.

After all the chaos, I put this TP link 3 way switch on another single pole switch in less than 5 minutes. Finally, I restore some of my DIY confidence.
so you wanted 3 way but couldnt get it, got frustrated and settled for 1 way satisfied. wonder why that sounds familiar Big Grin
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#99
Does someone have experience with these as well as the feit ones at costco? Any thoughts on which one is better? they are both similar price per switch. here is costco ones-
https://www.costco.com/feit-elect...18151.html

The only thing i find after my research is that the wiring for feit ones is a little unique - in that it needs both line and load on the single switch and only 1 traveler - the other switch could be a dumb 1 way switch but needs line too. I guess that's how they achieve the dimming function compared to these kasa ones which maintain the same wiring as dumb 3 way switches for simplicity but sacrificing dimming.
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