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Product Name: | Wood Door Trimmer |
Product Description: | The RYOBI Wood Door Trimmer is the perfect solution for frustrating sticking doors. This unique trimmer requires only a standard drill, no additional materials, to shave off excess material along your door. Removing up to 1/32 in. per pass on 1-3/4 in. & 1-3/8 in. size doors, this trimmer is the best solution for most wooden sticking doors. This fast, easy solution prevents the need to pull out bulky sanders or planers. Best of all, your wood door can stay on-hinge, cutting your project time and effort in half. |
Model Number: | A99DT01 |
Product SKU: | 314116668 |
UPC: | 33287192922 |
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Usually if a door isn't closing you need to adjust the hinges to get it straight and level again, but sometimes wood swells or new flooring is slightly higher etc and you just need to take a bit off
Look on YouTube for reviews of this tool.
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😁🤜🏻. .
Paneled and some other doors swell from moisture disproportionately. If you put a straight edge on edge of door and it is not straight, are you going to move the door frame to fit a curved door edge, or just plane the door down back to straight to match the frame that did not move?
You only use 'painter's tape' when using a circular saw and 99% of the time, that is the bottom of a door when cutting cross grain on the edge stiles; the center part is typically with grain. Since the circular saw blade is rotating up at the leading edge, you always cut from the side you don't normally see, or will see less. The tape, that you want to cut through and not as an edge guide, does not stop all of the chip out, but most of it. The saw blade you are using is the most important part of it to minimize tear out and go slow. Nothing like having a homeowner standing there and watching you with a magnifying glass.... lol
You don't use tape with a planer, as it would just gum it up and serves no purpose. When using a planer on the bottom, come from both ends. Once again, the side stiles are a cross grain cut that will give you edge tear out if you plane past that side edge of door. Come in from the edges and plane to the reference line you have marked. What also helps to minimize tear out, is to 'relief' the edge just a touch when cross grain planing before doing the flat edge.
And once again, do not ever cross grain plane from the center to past the outer edge.... always start from the outside and plane inward. A good habit to get into even with an electric planer on straight grain edges because if you don't hold the butt of the electric planer down tight as you come off the edge, you are going to cut a divet/divot in the wood.
If you have tear out, save the pieces and glue then back in. If the door is painted, you could always use a little Bondo if need be.
Will this tool work for this purpose??
I might not have enough room for the tool to attach under the door? I am guessing. (Edit: never mind, I can take off the door and then shave the bottom )
Another issue would be that if the door was sealed or painted it would be a good idea to repeat with the same product s the wood doesn't absorb moisture, especially in a bathroom.
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Another issue would be that if the door was sealed or painted it would be a good idea to repeat with the same product s the wood doesn't absorb moisture, especially in a bathroom.
But it takes about 20-45 min to align it and put it back on the hinges depending on the weight of the door.
The easy way is to unscrew the hinge plates but that loosens the screws in the wood and weakens the faceplate. The harder way is to tap out the hinge pins.