Don't have Amazon Prime? Students can get a
free 6-Month Amazon Prime trial with free 2-day shipping, unlimited video streaming & more.
If you're not a student, there's also a
free 1-Month Amazon Prime trial available.
You can also earn cash back rewards on Amazon and Whole Foods purchases with the
Amazon Prime Visa credit card. Read our review to see if itās the right card for you.
72 Comments
Your comment cannot be blank.
Featured Comments
Just like 50% of current reviewers who've had previous fake reviews deleted:
https://reviewmeta.com/amazon/B0B11T8G84
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Go to YouTube and search for parasitic draw test. That will help you chase down what is killing the battery. You'll need a multimeter, any cheap meter will work even a $5 from harbor freight.
most vehicles even come with a couple of fuses inside the fuse case so i wouldn't even bother with ones like these tbh.
Should last you 300 generations
I didn't realize until just a couple of months ago when I was messing with an older vehicle and I was down a fuse that the newer, smaller fuses will fit in the older, larger fuse holes....
It seems to happen more in trucks than in normal passenger cars, especially trucks with a bunch of extra lights or carrying larger electric loads. I don't have them go out often, but occasionally it happens. I got a crappy USB charger one time I certified as a genuine fuse popping device.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Does your hood have a light in it? Maybe try unscrewing it and see if it drains down again.
Generally fuses blow with direct short while smaller current leaks don't trip them because they don't reach max current threshold.
is running if it dies it's the alternator
Go to YouTube and search for parasitic draw test. That will help you chase down what is killing the battery. You'll need a multimeter, any cheap meter will work even a $5 from harbor freight.
Does your hood have a light in it? Maybe try unscrewing it and see if it drains down again.
If it was alternator, your truck would die (or the battery would drop significantly) while you're driving it. Dying while parked is almost always a parasitic leech (bad wiring, usb charger, bad sensor, trunk or plate lights that don't shut off...)
When factory stuff like that usually stops, it's not really a wiring issue that is the common problem it's more the actual switch/device itself right? I mean I do live in OH where salt is used so perhaps some wiring is corroded, but would think that would be less common than having a switch/device go bad in the circuit over wiring. I'll update as I learn more, but appreciate the feedback you all have provided.
Not from this specific seller or amazon link but be seriously skeptical of these super cheap kits. I had a fuse blow and then refuse itself back together from a similarly cheap ebay fuse kit.
https://photos.app.urlh
If a fuse blows and you don't have a spare, borrow it from another circuit like the horn
or rear wiper or dome lights.
ā
I divided them up and put them in multilple cars..
and now i couldn't tell yo uwhere any are lol
i did grab a bunch last time i went ot the junkyard and have some on the dash of my work truck.