Yep, you're right. The price makes this fix no sense. The heat component contribution is mostly by the screen itself. There are supplies that can withstand it, but they are of a military grade thus cost hundreds.
My external power supply works. I used PC power supply and a separate 24V supply. Other items I used are ATX power supply cable extender and 0.1" pin double header.
Nothing is modified inside monitor except removal of the broken power supply, so in case the original power supply becomes available you will be able to put that back in with no problem.
The 3.3V wires were cut and positive 24V is supplied thru the orange 3.3V lines. The 12V HDD wires were cut and the ground of 24V is connected to the cut ground lines coming out the power supply. So the ground current of 24V will flow into the power supply and then to the monitor. If the 3.3V supply comes with voltage sensor line (the 3.3V line and sensor line joins at the 20 or 24pin power connector), cut the sensor line too and solder it with the unused 3.3V lines and insulate with tape.
I used an ATX power cable extender to carry the lines into the monitor and used 0.1" double pin header to mate with the monitor power plugs. When soldering a wire, solder to pins of both rows of the header to make it strong and also useful when you have to jumper POW-ON line with ground (my POW-ON from monitor was not functioning or its polarity was reversed, POW-ON is control line to turn on power supply). The cables were routed behind the screw post right inside the aluminum case and used a plastic tie to hold it in place. When soldering pin header, hold it with a receptacle such as HDD cable, this will hold the pins even when the plastic gets melted from longer or hot soldering.
The 24V 2.5A supply gets warm and I could hold it indefinitely. It may work also with 2A supply and it could become warmer but still not too hot. For other voltages any cheap and small PC supply will do. Doesn't seem to be using much power from these. I removed the fan from the ATX supply and still it gets barely warm.
The parts can be bought from
ATX power cable extender (min 9") -- eBay ~ $3 including shipping
0.1" double header -- eBay ~ $3 including shipping
24VDC 2.5A supply -- bought from allelectronics.com but must purchase power cord separately, it is not common shape. Total ~ $25 including shipping http://www.allelectronics.com/mak...PLY/1.html
I removed the plastic cover from the 24V power supply. You need a star bit driver to remove it, also you may need to drill the plastic to enlarge screw hole.
If you prefer a little bit cleaner build, you may look into tripple output supplies from jameco.com such models as
5V|24V|12V 10A|2.5A|1A or more expensive 5V|24V|12V 10A|4A|2A. http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/...tId=323678
If your power supply doesn't have standby output, don't forget to feed live 5V to STB(StandBy) pin (pin #2 in the 10pin power connector in the monitor) by jumpering pin2 to 5V pin on the double header. Without the STB power the monitor will not be able to wake up when signal is applied to the monitor.
When the display signal is not present, the monitor turns off unnecessary internal functions including backlighting so even though the external supply is turned on continuously the power consumption would be minimal.
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Last edited by gbyer; 12-16-2009 at 10:26 AM..
Exellent job, gbyer. To enable the front monitor power switch I have to connect the "second" (by my count as it has no label) pin labeled s5v of the input board to +5 V. It went to the pin 2 con 3 of the OEM PSU before. I did not connect the first pin of the input board for turning on/off the PSU.
I think the +24 V supply would run 2 monitors, but may get hot. BTW, why do you need Maria to bite a banana?
Curious as to why you didn't get your 24V from the ATX power supply? You should have a +12 and -12v which should give you 24V across it. I tried this and the back light glows with a bunch of lines appearing on the screen but the front power light on the monitor never comes on.
In addition to turning on the PSU you need to turn on the monitor. The input board has the following connector (by my count as it has no label):
3. 12 V
4. 12 V
9. 5 V
10. 5 V
You need to connect 2. to 9. then the front power swich will work.
RESPONSE to wasabi_fu
Yes, your link is correct for the 24V 2.5A power supply.
If you want to run two monitors, instead of using a PC power supply, I suggest a power supply from jameco.com http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/...tId=323792
This 5V|24V|12V 15A|4A|2A power supply, now with experience of power demand of the monitor I guess, will be able to run two monitors.
You need to feed 4 lines GND|5V|24V|12V into monitor, so I would use 4pin Molex extension cable for this. Buy 4 or one 10pack of 24" extension cable from eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/12-MOLEX-4-Pi...563a6b1fc5
and use them as power cable.
Don't forget to feed live 5V to STB(StandBy) pin (pin #2 in the 10pin power connector in the monitor) by jumpering pin2 to 5V pin on the double header. Without the STB power the monitor will not be able to wake up when signal is applied to the monitor.
RESPONSE to mattbrad2
Generally the current capacity of PC power supply for -12V is very low. For example on the power supply I used -12V is specified as 0.3A. It will eventually burn out if used for long time. Another reason is I was afraid to feed negative voltage into monitor without knowing details of the circuit inside. I wanted to play safe instead of breaking.
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Last edited by gbyer; 04-30-2010 at 12:43 PM..
No, I have not tried Jameco. I was glad that I could have a good use of a PC power supply from my junk box. The SOYO power supply measures 200Lx93Wx30H(mm). If you remove two mounting posts there is plenty of space for width, and if you cut away a little bit of aluminum cover you would gain a bit in the length space. But for the height there is no margin.
Unfortunately Jameco does not say how high the supply is. Maybe someone who used Jameco could tell us how high it was.
I got in contact with Yueqing Solomon Intelligent Electric Co.,Ltd, they quoted $16 each for the power supply we need, how ever, it is not UL approved and shipping for 1 item from mainland China to Florida is $50 each. So much for the cheap ones.
The Jameco RT125D is made by Mean Well Enterprises in Taiwan and is UL. I am waiting for shipping cost and price from Jameco, they are the distributor.
Also, I found TRC Electronics, New Jersey has the same RT125D, listed at $56.57 but they say they are a business to business wholesaler.
I will keep you amnd the rest of the forum member what I find out.
I have the MeanWell RT125D from Jameco and am in the process of getting this setup to work with a dual monitor setup. Here's the first problem with the RT125D- it requires a load of at least 2amps on the 5V rail before the supply will turn on. Yes, 2amps. These monitors, even a pair of them, don't draw anywhere near that load on the 5V. So, to get the supply to turn on I had to use a 20watt, 2.5ohm ceramic resistor across the 5V and ground. This produces a lot of heat and makes the supply rather power hungry even when the monitors are off. As far as the size of the supply- it is very small. 200mm X 98mm X 38mm. It would easily fit inside the monitor. However, because of the heat from the supply and load resistor you would need to greatly increase the ventilation inside the monitor. You'd probably need to cut some vents in the top and back or even install a small fan at the top of the monitor to suck the heat out. For me, since I'm using it to power two monitors, I'm just going to mount it on the back of one of the monitors.
MeanWell does make other 5V,12V,24V power supplies that don't have near the load requirement to turn on. However, they also only supply around 1 or 2amps on the 12V/24V rails- so I'm not sure how well they would hold up.
It is a disappointment that the RT125D requires such high minimum current requirement.
I just measured the current draw from 24V supply. At brightness 0: 1.5A, at 30: 1.85A, at 100: 2.5A. It looks like it is pretty much linear from 0 to 100. So if one operates at brightness 50 or under, a 2A supply would work, and this RT85D (2.5A) is a candidate at $35. http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/...tId=323678
The data sheet http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Prod...323678.pdf
shows that the operating current range for 12V is 0.1-1A. If a constant load of 0.12A (100 Ohm 2W across 12V) reliably turns on the power supply it would be much lower heat. Of course the total current on 12V must be 1A or less for RT85D. Parrish, I would appreciate if you could test this.
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