This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
Model: LG C3 Series 83-Inch Class OLED evo 4K Processor Smart Flat Screen Wall Mount TV with Magic Remote AI-Powered OLED83C3PUA, 2023 with Alexa Built-in
Deal HistoryÂ
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Ya my screen was fine after year 4 too. It was after 5-6 years that burn in started to slowly show and then it will get worse and worse and it just keeps getting worse because it's cumulative. It never undoes itself lol. I spent $2600 on the E6 thinking I'd be good for 10 years at least considering older technology tv's lasted 15-20. Dropping $2k and the tv pretty much ruined after year 5 is a huge waste of money. Your tv ain't no superhero. The burn in will show up. I don't play any games and I watch stuff of varying types. The c3 oled tv's in sams are only ~a year old lol and the screen is burned in. Ya it plays the same loop but it's only been doing it for a year and it's ruined. Most people watch netflix or some kind of content they prefer over and over and after five years of moderate use the tv will be burned in and ruined which is a shame.
When stuff stops working right, I just smash it with my 4lb engineering hammer and just move on, but I have more money than I need...
Seeing these 83" C'3s with burn in all over the screen after 1 year of display at sams club makes me cringe that people pay so much for a screen thats gonna be ruined in 5 years. My e6 looks like an etch a sketch where a kid just went to town on it for an hour.
A lot of stores either leave the TVs on 24/7 or Auto cut power for convenience. Some people don't know that you have to keep the oleds plugged in and turned off overnight for all of their pixel shifting and Screen refreshing Tech to work.
As much as I hated having to sell it, I had for the last 7-8 years or so, a used LG OLED I picked up, with a perfect screen all that time. It was used for tv, movies, gaming all done through an Xbox. No retention whatsoever. And we are talking about an old school OLED. These last couple of years because of spine surgeries gone wrong, I was using it everyday when bedridden for not just movies and gaming, but casting the laptop for a multi-screen experience when I was trying to be productive.
Towards the end you could hear the TV fans kick on and stay on most of the night if it had been used for something like gaming for 10 hours straight. But the next day it was doing just fine. I still even have a 13 yeat-old Samsung 3D plasma that has been used with only an Xbox 360 or an Xbox One, and still no retention. I think some of it has to do with proactive care. Which amounts to running the screen refresh tools every quarter.
I know my experience is anecdotal at best, but you can't run the same 3 to 5 minute hard graphic composed demo real on an OLED 24/7 without it burning like that. And in store mode the colors are awful and the panel power is maxed and the brightness is also maxed, which is a recipe for burn-in. A recipe that you would almost never encounter in home use.
A lot of stores will use automated power strip shut offs, we did at Best Buy and Future Shop back in the day. Turns everything off with one switch.
The old thinking was it would protect Electronics cutting power like that. In the 2000s they still had those computer desks with the built-in power cut switches.
These days the soft power while off in OLED TVs is necessary to keep the screens pristine. A couple of high-end home theater installers still do that in my area, even did one at a friend's house a couple years back, power cuts.
I didn't want to tell anyone what to do, but I sort of half mentioned that the OLED needs to stay plugged in when it's turned off. We were friends through an old job so not best buds, he told me the installer said it was better to shut all the power off. So even some of the pros aren't aware of what this new tech requires.
Not to downplay what you went through, just throwing some ideas out there.
When stuff stops working right, I just smash it with my 4lb engineering hammer and just move on, but I have more money than I need...
If you want to mix up what you do with that money, I need another spine surgery to walk again. Want to cover my utilities and HOA for 6 to 9 months so I can recover? ( so you know it's not a scam, you pay directly to them) Can't swing another surgery and the basics on disability, until I can get back to work.
I'll let you swing that Sledgehammer at my old spine fusion they're going to remove and even give you the titanium rods after.
Interested?
Only half serious. Unless you are serious.
Or I'll double your money if we win the full court cases. I also Consulting Lean Startup in have other talents or services that are better suited for ad hoc arrangements then long-term employment, including being a former co-founder at a tech startup that had an impressive liquidity event before I had to exit after my accident, and the subsequent botched spine surgery.
Wow, look at me being desperate on slick deals. First time since 2008
What are people's thoughts on this set @ this price vs the 77" G3 for ~$300 less? Bigger vs better panel.
Really depends on your viewing space and what you will use the TV for. Something I personally would consider, as someone who installed systems as a hobby Once Upon a Time, is the sound system that you're pairing with the TV, as well as the Sound Stage where you're viewing area is. What's the window situation? Are you viewing primarily at night after dark? Is this an all-day TV for wife and kids or for home theater room? It's so easy to get caught up in the deals and the tech, that we forget about practicality. In my last four cards I always got the high-end navigation system with all the fancy Tech packages. Despite even having Android auto in the last one, I still never used those navigation systems one time. Before purchasing the cars, I just had this itch where I had to have it. I don't know it's a post college experience, where people naturally become more practical, or if my theory about how technology trends really changed in the early 2010s were the latest and greatest about being the latest and greatest, and often was just marketing fluff.
I tend to think bigger is better, historically. In the last decade or so I prefer the Lean Startup approach to these sorts of things. Find some sort of way to test your riskiest assumptions, before making commitments like these. An easy one could be going to the store. They have AR apps where you can hold up your ipad and see what the TV would look like comped in the room. Assuming you don't have any significant others with arbitrary opinions, that's where I would start.
I don't have the data off the top of my head, but in years past, you could see a difference in brightness levels between the models. The used OLED that I had, definitely could have used overall panel brightness. To achieve the HDR effect the peak brightness was often too much in areas of the scene, while the rest of the scene would sometimes suffer with dark artifacts. This was less of an OLED thing and more of a bad content thing, especially with streaming. It's still a reality that you have to deal with. Especially if you have big windows. The bigger your TV the bigger the reflection. It's stuff like that that you may not realize until you get it in your house installed, then discover a deal breaker that just bugs you forever. I hope that doesn't happen to you, it's the worst. I wouldn't wish that on an enemy. STT
Really depends on your viewing space and what you will use the TV for. Something I personally would consider, as someone who installed systems as a hobby Once Upon a Time, is the sound system that you're pairing with the TV, as well as the Sound Stage where you're viewing area is. What's the window situation? Are you viewing primarily at night after dark? Is this an all-day TV for wife and kids or for home theater room? It's so easy to get caught up in the deals and the tech, that we forget about practicality. In my last four cards I always got the high-end navigation system with all the fancy Tech packages. Despite even having Android auto in the last one, I still never used those navigation systems one time. Before purchasing the cars, I just had this itch where I had to have it. I don't know it's a post college experience, where people naturally become more practical, or if my theory about how technology trends really changed in the early 2010s were the latest and greatest about being the latest and greatest, and often was just marketing fluff.
I tend to think bigger is better, historically. In the last decade or so I prefer the Lean Startup approach to these sorts of things. Find some sort of way to test your riskiest assumptions, before making commitments like these. An easy one could be going to the store. They have AR apps where you can hold up your ipad and see what the TV would look like comped in the room. Assuming you don't have any significant others with arbitrary opinions, that's where I would start.
I don't have the data off the top of my head, but in years past, you could see a difference in brightness levels between the models. The used OLED that I had, definitely could have used overall panel brightness. To achieve the HDR effect the peak brightness was often too much in areas of the scene, while the rest of the scene would sometimes suffer with dark artifacts. This was less of an OLED thing and more of a bad content thing, especially with streaming. It's still a reality that you have to deal with. Especially if you have big windows. The bigger your TV the bigger the reflection. It's stuff like that that you may not realize until you get it in your house installed, then discover a deal breaker that just bugs you forever. I hope that doesn't happen to you, it's the worst. I wouldn't wish that on an enemy. STT
Appreciate the suggestions. I'm sitting about 10ft away and my primary use is gaming, with the TV going into the basement and no real other considerations I need to be mindful of. I'm actually leaning towards the 77" G3. It's a better panel, longer warranty, etc. I played around with sitting closer to my current TV, making some cardboard cut outs, etc and the 77" generally felt more comfortable to look at - especially for gaming when you are more often scanning a majority of the screen. I know many people say bigger is always better but for me there appears to be some limit when it becomes more uncomfortable. I am considering putting it on an extendable mount so I could still bring it closer to create a more "immersive" experience for the less often times we watch a movie.
Appreciate the suggestions. I'm sitting about 10ft away and my primary use is gaming, with the TV going into the basement and no real other considerations I need to be mindful of. I'm actually leaning towards the 77" G3. It's a better panel, longer warranty, etc. I played around with sitting closer to my current TV, making some cardboard cut outs, etc and the 77" generally felt more comfortable to look at - especially for gaming when you are more often scanning a majority of the screen. I know many people say bigger is always better but for me there appears to be some limit when it becomes more uncomfortable. I am considering putting it on an extendable mount so I could still bring it closer to create a more "immersive" experience for the less often times we watch a movie.
You are thinking about it the right way. In this situation where it's in a basement, and since gaming is your primary use (and assuming that you aren't going for high competitive first person shooters, given it's hard to compete playing below the 240 HZ native refresh rate with assumed ultra low input lag) it really depends on how far the seating is from the TV position. You can Google graphs that calculate the math on seating position distance from the TV, to understand how the TV size will affect your viewing experience at a given resolution.
I will say, if you play a lot of RPGs and non-input sensitive games, the bigger screen experience is pretty amazing. But if your primarily a first person shooter, I would revert back to screen size based on distance from sitting position, at a given resolution.
Both of these panels do Native 120 hertz for current generation game systems. I would check RTings to see if there's any quirks/advantages between the particular size and models when it comes to input lag or other Tech besides the panel technology. There have been a few times with LG, even in their OLED line, as with other TV manufacturers, where some unexpected quirk or benefit is present at larger screen sizes ( just like there is with the G4 and the G3, discussed in this thread).
The one upside of getting the larger TV, if you live in a decently populated area, if you really don't like it you can probably sell it pretty easily for profit. The bigger the TV size, usually the bigger the profit margin or resale value especially when talking about oleds. Just food for thought
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
If you want to mix up what you do with that money, I need another spine surgery to walk again. Want to cover my utilities and HOA for 6 to 9 months so I can recover? ( so you know it's not a scam, you pay directly to them) Can't swing another surgery and the basics on disability, until I can get back to work.
I'll let you swing that Sledgehammer at my old spine fusion they're going to remove and even give you the titanium rods after.
Interested?
Only half serious. Unless you are serious.
Or I'll double your money if we win the full court cases. I also Consulting Lean Startup in have other talents or services that are better suited for ad hoc arrangements then long-term employment, including being a former co-founder at a tech startup that had an impressive liquidity event before I had to exit after my accident, and the subsequent botched spine surgery.
Wow, look at me being desperate on slick deals. First time since 2008
No judgment here, amigo! Someone's casually bragging they have disposable income? By all means, ask away. Your humility is noted but unnecessary given the circumstances
Seeing these 83" C'3s with burn in all over the screen after 1 year of display at sams club makes me cringe that people pay so much for a screen thats gonna be ruined in 5 years. My e6 looks like an etch a sketch where a kid just went to town on it for an hour.
I literally use a C2 as a computer monitor. For software development. Which is pretty much the worst case scenario when it comes to burn in. No burn in whatsoever, but I keep my brightness down to prevent that.
Sam's Club probably abuses the crap out of them by running them 24/7 at max brightness. Just don't do that and you'll be fine. If you need crazy brightness 24/7 buy a Hisense U8G/U8H
I work for Best Buy outlet and an unopened 83 inch oled has never sold for that price.
Best Buy Outlet in Aurora, CO had 83 C2's for $2150 last Nov/Dec. Quite a few of them actually, they'd get in a few at a time and they would sell out quickly. All new in box. It was in-store only pricing, and did not show up in the POS systems if you tried to view the inventory/pricing from another store.
27 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
As much as I hated having to sell it, I had for the last 7-8 years or so, a used LG OLED I picked up, with a perfect screen all that time. It was used for tv, movies, gaming all done through an Xbox. No retention whatsoever. And we are talking about an old school OLED. These last couple of years because of spine surgeries gone wrong, I was using it everyday when bedridden for not just movies and gaming, but casting the laptop for a multi-screen experience when I was trying to be productive.
Towards the end you could hear the TV fans kick on and stay on most of the night if it had been used for something like gaming for 10 hours straight. But the next day it was doing just fine. I still even have a 13 yeat-old Samsung 3D plasma that has been used with only an Xbox 360 or an Xbox One, and still no retention. I think some of it has to do with proactive care. Which amounts to running the screen refresh tools every quarter.
I know my experience is anecdotal at best, but you can't run the same 3 to 5 minute hard graphic composed demo real on an OLED 24/7 without it burning like that. And in store mode the colors are awful and the panel power is maxed and the brightness is also maxed, which is a recipe for burn-in. A recipe that you would almost never encounter in home use.
A lot of stores will use automated power strip shut offs, we did at Best Buy and Future Shop back in the day. Turns everything off with one switch.
The old thinking was it would protect Electronics cutting power like that. In the 2000s they still had those computer desks with the built-in power cut switches.
These days the soft power while off in OLED TVs is necessary to keep the screens pristine. A couple of high-end home theater installers still do that in my area, even did one at a friend's house a couple years back, power cuts.
I didn't want to tell anyone what to do, but I sort of half mentioned that the OLED needs to stay plugged in when it's turned off. We were friends through an old job so not best buds, he told me the installer said it was better to shut all the power off. So even some of the pros aren't aware of what this new tech requires.
Not to downplay what you went through, just throwing some ideas out there.
I'll let you swing that Sledgehammer at my old spine fusion they're going to remove and even give you the titanium rods after.
Interested?
Only half serious. Unless you are serious.
Or I'll double your money if we win the full court cases. I also Consulting Lean Startup in have other talents or services that are better suited for ad hoc arrangements then long-term employment, including being a former co-founder at a tech startup that had an impressive liquidity event before I had to exit after my accident, and the subsequent botched spine surgery.
Wow, look at me being desperate on slick deals. First time since 2008
Really depends on your viewing space and what you will use the TV for. Something I personally would consider, as someone who installed systems as a hobby Once Upon a Time, is the sound system that you're pairing with the TV, as well as the Sound Stage where you're viewing area is. What's the window situation? Are you viewing primarily at night after dark? Is this an all-day TV for wife and kids or for home theater room? It's so easy to get caught up in the deals and the tech, that we forget about practicality. In my last four cards I always got the high-end navigation system with all the fancy Tech packages. Despite even having Android auto in the last one, I still never used those navigation systems one time. Before purchasing the cars, I just had this itch where I had to have it. I don't know it's a post college experience, where people naturally become more practical, or if my theory about how technology trends really changed in the early 2010s were the latest and greatest about being the latest and greatest, and often was just marketing fluff.
I tend to think bigger is better, historically. In the last decade or so I prefer the Lean Startup approach to these sorts of things. Find some sort of way to test your riskiest assumptions, before making commitments like these. An easy one could be going to the store. They have AR apps where you can hold up your ipad and see what the TV would look like comped in the room. Assuming you don't have any significant others with arbitrary opinions, that's where I would start.
I don't have the data off the top of my head, but in years past, you could see a difference in brightness levels between the models. The used OLED that I had, definitely could have used overall panel brightness. To achieve the HDR effect the peak brightness was often too much in areas of the scene, while the rest of the scene would sometimes suffer with dark artifacts. This was less of an OLED thing and more of a bad content thing, especially with streaming. It's still a reality that you have to deal with. Especially if you have big windows. The bigger your TV the bigger the reflection. It's stuff like that that you may not realize until you get it in your house installed, then discover a deal breaker that just bugs you forever. I hope that doesn't happen to you, it's the worst. I wouldn't wish that on an enemy. STT
I tend to think bigger is better, historically. In the last decade or so I prefer the Lean Startup approach to these sorts of things. Find some sort of way to test your riskiest assumptions, before making commitments like these. An easy one could be going to the store. They have AR apps where you can hold up your ipad and see what the TV would look like comped in the room. Assuming you don't have any significant others with arbitrary opinions, that's where I would start.
I don't have the data off the top of my head, but in years past, you could see a difference in brightness levels between the models. The used OLED that I had, definitely could have used overall panel brightness. To achieve the HDR effect the peak brightness was often too much in areas of the scene, while the rest of the scene would sometimes suffer with dark artifacts. This was less of an OLED thing and more of a bad content thing, especially with streaming. It's still a reality that you have to deal with. Especially if you have big windows. The bigger your TV the bigger the reflection. It's stuff like that that you may not realize until you get it in your house installed, then discover a deal breaker that just bugs you forever. I hope that doesn't happen to you, it's the worst. I wouldn't wish that on an enemy. STT
I will say, if you play a lot of RPGs and non-input sensitive games, the bigger screen experience is pretty amazing. But if your primarily a first person shooter, I would revert back to screen size based on distance from sitting position, at a given resolution.
Both of these panels do Native 120 hertz for current generation game systems. I would check RTings to see if there's any quirks/advantages between the particular size and models when it comes to input lag or other Tech besides the panel technology. There have been a few times with LG, even in their OLED line, as with other TV manufacturers, where some unexpected quirk or benefit is present at larger screen sizes ( just like there is with the G4 and the G3, discussed in this thread).
The one upside of getting the larger TV, if you live in a decently populated area, if you really don't like it you can probably sell it pretty easily for profit. The bigger the TV size, usually the bigger the profit margin or resale value especially when talking about oleds. Just food for thought
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I'll let you swing that Sledgehammer at my old spine fusion they're going to remove and even give you the titanium rods after.
Interested?
Only half serious. Unless you are serious.
Or I'll double your money if we win the full court cases. I also Consulting Lean Startup in have other talents or services that are better suited for ad hoc arrangements then long-term employment, including being a former co-founder at a tech startup that had an impressive liquidity event before I had to exit after my accident, and the subsequent botched spine surgery.
Wow, look at me being desperate on slick deals. First time since 2008
I literally use a C2 as a computer monitor. For software development. Which is pretty much the worst case scenario when it comes to burn in. No burn in whatsoever, but I keep my brightness down to prevent that.
Sam's Club probably abuses the crap out of them by running them 24/7 at max brightness. Just don't do that and you'll be fine. If you need crazy brightness 24/7 buy a Hisense U8G/U8H