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Model: TP-Link Tapo Wi-Fi Smart Plug, ๐๐ป๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ด๐ ๐ ๐ผ๐ป๐ถ๐๐ผ๐ฟ๐ถ๐ป๐ด, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home & Samsung SmartThings, Timer, 15A/1800W Max, ETL Certified, 2.4G Wi-Fi Only, Tapo P115(4-Pack)
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I just bought the 4 pack of Kasa K125M and am wondering what the difference is between K125M and P125M which happens to be on sale for $18.99 for a 3 pack. I am feeling I overpaid for the Kasa. Other than a slightly different design I don't know there is any difference between the two. Both do energy monitoring and support the same loads.
can the Tapo P115 be used as a trigger to shut off other devices... ie if I plug in my desktop into it , then when the desktop goes into power save (ie goes off to sleep, say consuming less then 10W) , this triggers the other Tapo P115 to shut the monitors off?
I want to use the Tapo P115 as a energy monitoring trigger?
How does it help you control energy for your refrigerator and freezer
If I use my small generator (1800 watt), I cannot run all 3 refrig/freezer at once (actually I can, but not with compressor startup, which may take 500-800 watt each).
With the Tapo, I can easily turn off 1 or 2 of the refrig/freezer with my phone to assure the generator is not overloaded. I can even schedule when this happens.
Of course, I have to allot power to run my modem/router for internet/wifi.
Last edited by vsspam November 30, 2024 at 10:04 PM.
What's the difference between the P115 ($15 for 2) and the P110 ($20 for 2) besides the size and certification/listing? The 115 is smaller but is ETL listed where the 110 is UL listed.
UL listed should be better in the US right?
I'm using the older Kasa w/ energy monitoring and the info on energy monitoring isn't that great. I use these to regulate LVL1 charging 2 EVs on the same 20A circuit. One car will only pull 1.3 kWh max and the other will pull 1.5kWh and if i'm in a hurry I can max it out at 1.7kWh.
Last edited by PoppinPenelli November 28, 2024 at 10:35 AM.
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I want to use the Tapo P115 as a energy monitoring trigger?
With the Tapo, I can easily turn off 1 or 2 of the refrig/freezer with my phone to assure the generator is not overloaded. I can even schedule when this happens.
Of course, I have to allot power to run my modem/router for internet/wifi.
UL listed should be better in the US right?
I'm using the older Kasa w/ energy monitoring and the info on energy monitoring isn't that great. I use these to regulate LVL1 charging 2 EVs on the same 20A circuit. One car will only pull 1.3 kWh max and the other will pull 1.5kWh and if i'm in a hurry I can max it out at 1.7kWh.
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