Forum Thread

Online Home Repair help for SD members

Brattles 1,233 March 18, 2010 at 05:27 PM
This is a direct spin off of the highly received "Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members" thread by BikerEric.

In his first post, BikerEric's 11th commandment is: "Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic" and since that was happening this thread seemed like a good thing to do.

So ask away. Seems there's enough experts to help with about anything here.

Actually, I'll go first. Balloon framed 1860's house on a stone foundation, the side sill plates are spreading apart in the center and the first floor has sagged. Main beam was replaced some time ago with a steel I beam and lally columns (replacing tree trunks with flat rocks as footings) to stabilize the structure. Spreading sills continue. Thought of putting tie rods consisting of heavy threaded rods through the sill plate on one side and across the house to the other sill plate to stop the spread. Will that work and what might go wrong?

Community Wiki

Last Edited by dollarbill August 23, 2010 at 03:43 AM
Just a few notes for users of tech support.
1. It would be greatly appreciated if you'd post SOLVED when your problem is solved. Just go to advanced and type it in title.
2. Stay with your thread till its been resolved. the quicker you answer questions, the quicker you'll get helped.
3. Be respectful and patient with those of us that are taking time to help you for free.Our time is free to you but still valuable to us.
4. Try not to start multiple threads for one issue.

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#706
Quote from oldgrump View Post :
Where can I find a service (repair) manual, not the installation and operation manual, for a Burnham ESC boiler?
this was the best I could find http://www.usboiler.net/products/...manual.pdf
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#707
Thanks. That's what came with the system. When it's serviced, I want to know more about it than the serviceman so we're not royally screwed over. If what they do is anything like the oil burner serviceman did, it's wham bam and done. I want this system up and running at it's peak.

The manual that came with it (linked above) doesn't show, for instance, how to tweak the settings with an analyzer or even how to seal the sealed chamber back up. That's the kind of thing I'm looking for.

I haven't seen anything like that in the library, or online. It's gotta be someplace!!
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#708
Quote from oldgrump View Post :
Thanks. That's what came with the system. When it's serviced, I want to know more about it than the serviceman so we're not royally screwed over. If what they do is anything like the oil burner serviceman did, it's wham bam and done. I want this system up and running at it's peak.

The manual that came with it (linked above) doesn't show, for instance, how to tweak the settings with an analyzer or even how to seal the sealed chamber back up. That's the kind of thing I'm looking for.

I haven't seen anything like that in the library, or online. It's gotta be someplace!!
you might try calling US Boiler tech support and see what they can point you to
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#709
Yep, in Pennsylvania. Had some issues and wanted just some information about design of a new install. Calling them for information was fruitless, I was told to call a local professional in. I see online they've done the same with others and would expect the same again.

Still looking around.... it's even hard to find out online how to use a gas analyzer and tweak the settings. The numbers to look for can be found, but how to accomplish a tweak on the boiler isn't. I want to know things like that and the right way to reassemble the sealed chamber and if this model has anything specific to it (as many of the new boilers do) that needs tending etc.

Am having a system serviced routinely and want to know what's going on, in depth. There was a certain reassurance knowing in depth how the old oil system worked and that's totally lacking for me with the new gas system.

Thanks, Dollarbill
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#710
Quote from oldgrump View Post :
Yep, in Pennsylvania. Had some issues and wanted just some information about design of a new install. Calling them for information was fruitless, I was told to call a local professional in. I see online they've done the same with others and would expect the same again.

Still looking around.... it's even hard to find out online how to use a gas analyzer and tweak the settings. The numbers to look for can be found, but how to accomplish a tweak on the boiler isn't. I want to know things like that and the right way to reassemble the sealed chamber and if this model has anything specific to it (as many of the new boilers do) that needs tending etc.

Am having a system serviced routinely and want to know what's going on, in depth. There was a certain reassurance knowing in depth how the old oil system worked and that's totally lacking for me with the new gas system.

Thanks, Dollarbill
Try telling them you are a contractor or building maintenance. They usually have support for them.they might even offer a course through a local dealer
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#711
I'll probably start a separate thread on this, but I thought I'd try all of my resources here. I am installing a transfer switch, and I came across something peculiar. Look at the attached picture. Of the 2 20amp fuses, one of them has a white wire. Is this just a case of not using the right wire to do the job or is there any reason that a white wire should go in to the breaker instead of be grounded. I will be wiring this to 2 20amp breakers on my xfer switch, and I want to make sure I do this right.

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This ordeal is like a fire tempering a sword. It's making chewy even tougher. If he got leprosy and his arm fell off, he'd beat the shit out of a bear, dip his stump in lemon juice and sew it back on with his good hand.
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#712
Quote from chewspam View Post :
I'll probably start a separate thread on this, but I thought I'd try all of my resources here. I am installing a transfer switch, and I came across something peculiar. Look at the attached picture. Of the 2 20amp fuses, one of them has a white wire. Is this just a case of not using the right wire to do the job or is there any reason that a white wire should go in to the breaker instead of be grounded. I will be wiring this to 2 20amp breakers on my xfer switch, and I want to make sure I do this right.

Looks like a double pole breaker? The tape just an identifier? If so a lot of times people will use wire like that. Now it's pretty much hot, hot, neutral and ground. yours is hot, hot and ground. what does this supply.
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for those that hate spelling mistakes www.walmarts.comCool

bulb save money by checking your insurance every 2 years (and not every 20) Thanks Liberty Mutual for reminding me to shop. The $842 increase this year sums it up. Across the board increase for Ohio....whatever

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#713
Quote from stufine View Post :
Looks like a double pole breaker? The tape just an identifier? If so a lot of times people will use wire like that. Now it's pretty much hot, hot, neutral and ground. yours is hot, hot and ground. what does this supply.

It is a double pole, and it supplies my water pump. That's kind of the one big think i need to get write. I could burn the rest of the house down, but i need water.
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#714
Quote from chewspam View Post :
It is a double pole, and it supplies my water pump. That's kind of the one big think i need to get write. I could burn the rest of the house down, but i need water.
looks like they needed or switched to 220, (2 hots) they used the white as the 2nd hot feed. they could/should have colored it black with a sharpie. its using the ground as a neutral. Now they want a separate ground and neutral.
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#715
Quote from stufine View Post :
looks like they needed or switched to 220, (2 hots) they used the white as the 2nd hot feed. they could/should have colored it black with a sharpie. its using the ground as a neutral. Now they want a separate ground and neutral.

Thank you for your feedback. So am i safe to assume that this is just a hot wire with the wrong color? That is what I was thinking and ready to wire it as such. By doing so, I wouldn't be changing anything about the wiring. The currents would all still be the same as they were. The water pump is the last thing I want to screw up. If it' blows then I'm out a lot of money, and we are looking at another 7 days without power. Ranting
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#716
those breakers are only supplying hot. you can double check at the pump and see what it's connected to.
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#717
I'm looking to replace this lock for a friend but can't find a suitable replacement. Can anyone tell me what brand or type of lock this is? Notice that the deadbolt is not inline with the cylinder.

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#718
Toilet flapper stopped working. I think the bathroom is from the 70s, so I figured any universal flapper would do and I bought this one http://www.korky.com/Flapper2001BP.html .

When I went to replace the flapper, it wasn't the right one. I'll use the following image for the names of stuff http://www.rusticgirls.com/images...iagram.gif . Well, the problem is that the flapper arms have no where to go. I don't have mounting prongs on the bottom of the overflow tube.

Instead there are mounting prongs on the valve seat at a 90 degree angle to the overflow tube. Furthermore the mounting prongs are inverted. They require a flapper with solid flapper arms to push out of it.

I don't see any flapper on korky or home depot website that looks like it would fit. I'm going to go to home depot and double check, but do you guys know what kind of flapper I need? Or I need to replace the overflow tube with one that has the newer style of mounting prongs?

Found a picture of what my flapper looks like: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/p...89,00.html
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Last edited by sdslick July 10, 2012 at 06:52 AM.
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#719
Quote from sdslick View Post :
Toilet flapper stopped working. I think the bathroom is from the 70s, so I figured any universal flapper would do and I bought this one http://www.korky.com/Flapper2001BP.html .

When I went to replace the flapper, it wasn't the right one. I'll use the following image for the names of stuff http://www.rusticgirls.com/images...iagram.gif . Well, the problem is that the flapper arms have no where to go. I don't have mounting prongs on the bottom of the overflow tube.

Instead there are mounting prongs on the valve seat at a 90 degree angle to the overflow tube. Furthermore the mounting prongs are inverted. They require a flapper with solid flapper arms to push out of it.

I don't see any flapper on korky or home depot website that looks like it would fit. I'm going to go to home depot and double check, but do you guys know what kind of flapper I need? Or I need to replace the overflow tube with one that has the newer style of mounting prongs?

Found a picture of what my flapper looks like: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/p...89,00.html

I have always bought those kits that have everything in them. That way they always mount just fine to the other stuff.

That said, if the toilet is really from the 70's then you might think about upgrading. At my HD I can get a Kohler toilet that has the required water savings 1gpf, but has a ton of power. You really can't stop this thing. They cost me $138. Replacing a toilet is pretty easy to DIY too. Just something to think about, save water and get a lot more power too.

-------------------------------

My question is I have really large thick mirror I want to attach to my wall. This will be in a bathroom and I don't want to frame it. The mirror will be 60" x 36" or so and weighs probably 60 lbs and is 1/4" thick. I have seen some mirrors in commercial buildings sit in a channel on both the bottom and top and I like this idea. Any idea where I can find this or whats its called? Any better ideas?
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Vague questions receive vague answers . . . . . .
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#720
Quote from LiquidRetro View Post :


My question is I have really large thick mirror I want to attach to my wall. This will be in a bathroom and I don't want to frame it. The mirror will be 60" x 36" or so and weighs probably 60 lbs and is 1/4" thick. I have seen some mirrors in commercial buildings sit in a channel on both the bottom and top and I like this idea. Any idea where I can find this or whats its called? Any better ideas?
I always use these into studs
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps...uctid=5166

use the cardboard liners that come with them and try not to slide mirror. it will scrape the backing off the mirror
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Last edited by stufine July 10, 2012 at 09:16 PM.
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