Note: If you have a Newegg Business Acct, you may purchase from the Newegg Business Site and apply code FBFAN50 to save an additional $50 and bring your total to $299.99 with free shipping. Thanks Hayes1916
- Intel Pentium B940 2.0GHz Dual Core CPU
- 4GB DDR3 Memory
- 320GB Hard Drive
- 15.6" LED LCD 1366x768 w/ Webcam
- DVD Super Multi
- Intel HD Graphics
- WiFi N
- 6-Cell Battery
- Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
Intel Pentium B940(2.00GHz)
15.6" LED backlit
4GB Memory DDR3 1333
320GB HDD 5400rpm
DVD Super Multi
Intel HD Graphics
This same laptop is also on newegg business http://www.neweggbusin
Second promo code dead. Price is now $350 on Aug.10
good deal on a good laptop!
Tax charged on both sites for California residents.
For CPU Comparison according to passmark CPU benchmarks
Intel Core2 Duo E8300 @ 2.83GHz 1,981
AMD Phenom II X4 8700e 1,979
Intel Pentium B940 @ 2.00GHz 1,973
Intel Core i3 330M @ 2.13GHz 1,963
So its equal to an older generation i3
for the biz deal - enter any number as a tax ID (0000 works)
This is the page on ASUS' website for drivers and such, should you want to do a clean install. (please confirm, those who have received their laptop). to be on the safe side use ASUS' auto detect feature to make sure you are getting the correct drivers.
I ran Process Explorer and during the high CPU usage it reports that the file iaStor.sys is what's causing it. This file is the driver for device "Intel Mobile Express Chipset SATA AHCI Controller" under Device Manager. The old driver lists the device as "Intel 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family 6 Port SATA AHCI Controller" and it doesn't use the file iaStor.sys.
If you are experiencing the freezing problem can you check Device Manager and then look under "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" and see which one of the above is listed? To access Device Manager click Start -> Right-click Computer -> Left-click Manage -> Select Device Manager.
If you have updated the driver and are experiencing high CPU usage then double click the Intel Mobile Express controller and go to the Driver tab and select Roll Back Driver then Yes, then click Close and reboot.
Only time will tell if it fixed the problem, but checking Process Explorer the problematic iaStor.sys+0x3916c isn't listed anymore so I'm hoping.
This comes with one 4GB stick of 204-Pin DDR3 1333mhz 1.5volt latency: 9
There is one open slot. You can get another 4GB for it or get a 8GB set for $40 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231342
Module is half-height Mini PCI Azurewave AW-NE139H [wikidevi.com], model no. Realtek RTL8188CE. The latest driver is version 1005.24.0712.2011 dated 2011/7/27 straight from Realtek [realtek.com].
are not the greatest. Here are two solutions under $12
laptop speaker https://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?
Comes with a fine array of bloatware which can be uninstalled.
More information and tips on doing a clean install of Windows 7 starts here https://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?
One user reports the reinstall experience here: https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=
Drivers and downloads on the ASUS support site: choose Windows 7 64-bit from the dropdown list
The CPU is not soldered in and can be replaced with Sandy Bridge i5 and i7 CPUs (including quadcores, but your battery time will take a decent hit) using the PPGA988 socket such as the i7-2620m.
Taken from this post:
Here are some tips for taking apart the A53E chassis:
You'll need two small paperclips, or one small paperclip and a small flathead screwdriver (1/8" width or less), or two small flatheads (1/8" or less) to get the chassis open. Don't forget about a small phillips head as well.
-There are three screw sizes used for the entire chassis.
-The two thickest screws are located in the holes nearest to the battery lock sliders on the underside. Set those aside.
-The majority of the screws are the same size besides the two large ones near the battery locks. There are 4 very short length screws (this is the third size of screw): 3 above the DVD drive (once it is out, see the section about removing the keyboard below) and one underneath the HDD once it's out.
-Remove all visible screws on the underside of the chassis. There are no screws hidden under the rubber feet or the Windows key stickers as I had previously thought.
-There are four spring tabs along the top of the keyboard. To remove the keyboard use one paperclip/flathead to push the leftmost sliding tab up towards the screen. Use the other paperclip/flathead to pry the top-leftmost corner of the keyboard out of the chassis. Hold this corner with your finger. Repeat the procedure going left to right for all the spring tabs along the top of the keyboard. Warning: Do not just pull the keyboard out! There is a ribbon attached underneath that you will need to disconnect. It's held in place by a plastic bar that slides open (pull on it, but not too rough). Once the ribbon is disconnected, remove all the screws. Once these screws are out you can slide the DVD drive right out. Underneath the yellow tape areas where the keyboard was are ribbons connected to the mainboard. Pull back the tape and lift the latches on the connectors holding the ribbons in place.
-Now that the DVD drive is out, you can remove the 3 small screws above where the drive door was.
-On the back of the laptop where the battery slides in, you'll find three areas where you can push your paperclip/flathead in and separate the two different layers. This may take some time and force, but be careful not to use too much force because the top layer of the laptop (which is what we're trying to get off) is very thin.
-Once the top is off, you'll have access to the mainboard. Note the screws that have a white arrowhead next to them for when you are reassembling. There is one screw underneath the rightmost USB ribbon that does not have a white arrowhead, remove this screw as well, but don't forget about it when reassembling!
-There is one screw holding in the main fan as well as a piece of black tape holding the monitor cable to the fan housing; remove the screw and pull the tape off so that you can lift out the mainboard.
-On the underside of the mainboard is the CPU. There is a warranty sticker over once of the screws around the socket. I was able to slowly peel it back and keep it intact but you might not care about it at this point. The CPU socket is tightened by a flathead screw. There is a little nub on the screw you'll notice as you turn it. Make sure you turn the screw counterclockwise so the nub is now on the right of the socket. That's it!
I shaved off about 8c at idle with this new processor, most likely because I applied the Shin Etsu thermal paste very carefully and evenly. I'll post a screenshot of my Windows Experience score before and after in a followup post. The only upgrade left is either a Momentus XT 500GB or a 256GB SSD. The Momentus XT would keep the overall cost of this laptop near $600.