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Nashbar 'Famous Maker' road bike with SRAM Rival $899 plus shipping

Pogo 463 447 July 10, 2013 at 08:13 PM in Sporting Goods (5) More Nashbar Deals
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Last Edited by treyfer July 11, 2013 at 06:11 AM
Pretty rare to see a road bicycle with this level of component group for a price this low. A SRAM Rival group alone would run you pretty close to the cost of this whole bike. Shimano 105 pedals? Better bikes NEVER come with pedals. These alone are worth $70!

Only 48, 51, and 60 cm sizes left. The 51 should be good for someone as tall as 5'8" if you want a pretty racy riding position. The 60 is for really tall people. The 48 would be good for many women.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Prod...1___204204
Quote :
Famous Maker Road Bike with Rival

Nashbar is all about the hookup. It's just what we do; and there's no better example than the Famous Maker Road Bike with Rival. First of all, check the specs--we're talking no-kidding quality with a hydroformed 6061 T6 aluminum frame and carbon fork with Sram Rival Crankset, front and rear derailleurs, levers, and shifters...that alone makes the deal. But how about this: we sweeten it even more by finishing the bike out with excellent components all the way down to the ground...we've even included a pair of Shimano 105 pedals just so you know we're out of our minds.

6061-T6 hydroformed aluminum frame has the geometry and ride feel of a classic Italian racing machine--laterally stiff bottom bracket, 73 degree head tube and seat tube and tapered seat stays to soften the ride
SRAM Rival 10-speed drivetrain delivers smooth shifting and sheds weight off your bike
Alex ALX270 wheels are tough enough for rough roads and light enough for long rides
Carbon fiber fork is tapered to give you a stable and responsive ride, while smoothing out road vibrations to save your palms and forearms
Quote :
Famous Maker Road Bike with Rival

FRAME:ll 6061 Aluminum
FORK:ll Carbon fiber, 45mm rake, alloy steerer
HEADSET:ll 1 1/8"
CRANKSET:ll SRAM Rival 53/39T, 10-speed, Length: 170mm (48cm), 172.5mm (51/54/57cm), 175mm (60cm)
BOTTOM BRACKET:ll SRAM Rival
SHIFTERS:ll SRAM Rival
LEVERS:ll SRAM Rival
HANDLEBAR:ll 6061-T6 Aluminum, 31.8mm clamp, Width: 400mm (48cm), 420mm (51/54cm), 440mm (57/60cm)
STEM:ll 6061 cold-forged aluminum, -5 degree rise, 31.8mm clamp, Length: 90mm (48cm), 100mm (51cm), 110mm (54cm), 120mm (57/60cm)
FRONT DERAILLEUR:ll SRAM Rival
REAR DERAILLEUR:ll SRAM Rival
CASSETTE:ll SRAM PG-1050, 12-25T
BRAKES:ll Tektro R520
WHEELSET:ll Alex ALX270 20/24-spoke with aero stainless steel spokes
TIRES:ll Vittoria Rubino Pro 700x23
PEDALS:ll Shimano 105 with cleats
SEATPOST:ll Alloy 27.2x300mm
SADDLE:ll Velo Plush
CHAIN:ll KMC DX10 SC
GRIPS/TAPE:ll Velo Gel Tape
RACK MOUNTS:ll
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141 Comments

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#31
Quote from wrmanis View Post :
Yeah, man, what he said. I had a Sora as my first road bike, then went up to a 105. You won't ever believe there would be that much difference until you try it, but trust us, there is. Don't go with a Sora gruppo if you want to do anything serious.

In case you were wondering, the ranking for Shimano kinda goes like this:

Dura-ACE
Ultegra
105
Tiagra
Sora

The SRAM Rivals fit somewhere between the Ultegra and the 105, depending on who you ask. I really enjoyed the Rival gruppo I tried once, but I buy all my bikes on CL so I stuck with what I knew.

Also, yes, they do sell one lower than the Sora, called the 2200. Yeesh.
thank you so much this made so much easier for me to buy bikes now!! I'm gonna rep u later when I get on comp
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#32
Quote from wavesine View Post :
No! (unless you have very short legs and a very long torso)

You can't pick a frame size based on your height. To fit properly, frame size must be based on your bike inseam (not to be confused with your pant inseam)

Here's how to measure your bike inseam:

With your shoes off, stand with your back against the wall and stand up straight. Pull a large hardback book up into your crotch tightly. Have a friend make a mark on the wall where the top of the book touches the wall. Then measure the distance from the pencil mark to the floor. That is your bike inseam.

For a road bike you want a frame that is about one inch greater than your bike inseam to allow room for the family jewels. Remember you will have even more clearance when you ride because you will have shoes on.

Agreed... you cant figure out your bike size based on height alone. There will be some pro's that tall riding a 51 (its insane), but thats with a slammed stem.

also, 49,51,60.... all those numbers arent the key number you should look at. You fit yourself depending on your effective top tube. look at the geometry diagram. keep in mind, you can also slightly adjust your effective top tube with a different sized stem or setback seatpost. fwiw, Im 6'2", long torso, 59cm effective top tube. (i own a 57, 59, 60 and 61 labeled bikes)

Google 'competetive cyclist fit calculator', and its a pretty good tool to measure you up.
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#33
Quote from thebtran View Post :
what size should i get for 6'0 then still the 51?
Quote from lll View Post :
6'0" will need 57. 51 will not work.
Unless you've got bizarre proportions of your legs and torso, don't even think about riding a 51cm road bike if you're 6'.
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#34
Quote from Maegus View Post :
Bro...Sora is not even in the same league as this SRAM component group....your talking apples and oranges now...Sora pretty much blows if you ever get into even modest riding. Go with this deal if the frame size works for you.
thank you! gonna rep u later
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#35
Quote from pzero View Post :
It's impossible to know much about the condition without being there, but there are a staggering number of bikes that are literally ridden a handful of times, then left to pasture in a garage somewhere. There are ways to spot it (careful inspection of chainrings and derailleurs, inspection of grease, disassembly of shifters to look for wear, etc), but they take a trained eye.

The others here have already commented on the quality of the Sora gruppo, but I agree that resale on the cannondale could be about the same or even higher due to name recognition. The Nashbar is probably a better bike (and I suspect a mid-grade Fuji from looking at the frame geometry), and definitely has better components, so it will ride better, but the Cannondale would be fine, especially if you are new to riding. The Sora shifters are pitiful, but if you are not going to end up riding much, you may not suffer the bike envy that inspires expensive component upgrades.

For an experienced rider, the Nashbar setup is a better deal, and will be a better bike, but if you just want something to ride, the Cannondale is (presumably) available for a test ride, and will probably have the same resale value as the Nashbar. The real question is which one you will end up actually riding, and the answer is probably the one that fits, is functional/reliable, and looks cool enough for your taste. Hope this helps.
I'm so glad I asked a question on this thread!learned so much thank you so much I will prolly go with nashbar when they release coupon or looking for something with better components and thanks again!
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#36
With a coupon that carbon fiber posted for 1000$ with it's good reviews seems like a steal
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#37
Quote from zikronix View Post :
Im just begining to get the things I need (with out spending a ton of cash) to attempt to ride my walmart mongoose mountain bike to work in arizona. Im not a serious rider in any regard. This is an experiment first and if it works out then ill invest in some different tech.

Im like you, I read this and look at it and am thinking...I have alot to learn. All in due time I guess.
If you haven't already done so, put some fat 26" road tires on the mountain bike and you will completely transform it for riding on the street.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Prod...1___202472
http://www.performancebike.com/bi...yId=400904
Seriously, MTBs can make pretty good urban assault weapons with street tires instead of knobbies. And they'll still work ok on dry dirt like most of AZ.
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Last edited by Pogo July 11, 2013 at 08:04 AM

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#38
Quote from lll View Post :
6'0" will need 57. 51 will not work.
I'm 6'2" and i use an older Trek 5500 56cm and its way small...

I'd much rather have good components and a no name frame then the other way around. You want quality groupset. Lower end stuff works, but the higher end stuff is usually a lot better.
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#39
Quote from Pogo View Post :
If you haven't already done so, put some fat 26" road tires on the mountain bike and you will completely transform it for riding on the street.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Prod...1___202472
http://www.performancebike.com/bi...yId=400904
Seriously, MTBs can make pretty good urban assault weapons with street tires instead of knobbies. And they'll still work ok on dry dirt like most of AZ.
I bike 10+ miles everyday on a downhill full suspension Santa Cruz around town...big knobbies, but all that travel makes the ride so smooth. I'll take that 9 times out of 10 vs the roadbike, unless i'm in a big hurry. The roads in this town are horrible and roadbikes with 110psi tires are not the smoothest riding.
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#40
Quote from Pogo View Post :
If you haven't already done so, put some fat 26" road tires on the mountain bike and you will completely transform it for riding on the street.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Prod...1___202472
http://www.performancebike.com/bi...yId=400904
Seriously, MTBs can make pretty good urban assault weapons with street tires instead of knobbies. And they'll still work ok on dry dirt like most of AZ.

Thanks for the pro tip. I will consider that. Im only riding 15 miles one way. I know I can handle the ride cause I ride my bike around my neighborhood quite a bit, this will be my first "distance" ride. I was probably going to invest in a hybrid bike, nothing crazy expensive by any means, but mainly something a little lighter thats sized properly. but then again I dont know diddly about bikes. I used to have a huffy when I was a kid, a diamondback gt dyno, and a robinson, and Mongoose was a "premeir" company back then.
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Last edited by zikronix July 11, 2013 at 08:17 AM
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#41
All I want to say... is this bike will not be safe in ILLadelphia
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#42
This is a crazy good deal. You could almost strip the components, sell them on eBay, and turn a profit. And Nashbar is a solid company that is trustworthy (owned by the same company that owns Performance Bike, if I remember correctly).

There is no doubt that Rival > Sora. Whether Rival > 105 or Rival > Ultegra depends on who you ask. But there is more to it than that. I would MUCH rather ride a Sora bike that fits me than a Rival (or Dura-Ace, or whatever) that didn't. A good deal on spendy components on a poor fitting bike isn't really a good deal at all. The only downside of buying your first road bike online is that you have no idea of what size you really need given differences in frame geometry.

Also, IMO Sora gets a undeserved bad rap from most road cyclists. I rode a Sora-equipped bike all the way through grad school and only recently upgraded now that I have a real job and a deal on Craigslist came up that I couldn't refuse. Top of the line components are nice, but in all honesty the Sora stuff is fine. Plus Sora is bulletproof and requires very little maintenance, unlike the more expensive components which are lighter but more temperamental (I put nearly 7000 miles on my Sora bike and did nothing to it aside from a little cleaning and lubrication once in awhile, and it still serves as my "around town" bike for running errands or the occasional work commute).

If you just want a bike to ride around and enjoy being outdoors (and aren't looking to race), I can tell you from experience that a well-fitting bike with Sora components will be more than adequate at a good price. But the frame fit is really, really, really, really, important.
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Last edited by jfizz July 11, 2013 at 08:26 AM
#43
i've been waiting for a good shaft or belt bike. none sold locally. are they any good compared to chain? i'm looking at this one
http://shop.dynamicbicycles.com/R...about8.htm
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#44
Quote from zikronix View Post :
Thanks for the pro tip. I will consider that. Im only riding 15 miles one way. I know I can handle the ride cause I ride my bike around my neighborhood quite a bit, this will be my first "distance" ride. I was probably going to invest in a hybrid bike, nothing crazy expensive by any means, but mainly something a little lighter thats sized properly. but then again I dont know diddly about bikes. I used to have a huffy when I was a kid, a diamondback gt dyno, and a robinson, and Mongoose was a "premeir" company back then.
If you like the bike, try the tires before buying a new bike. I've set up lots of MTBs with street tires for friends and family. It's like a whole new machine.
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#45
Quote from jfizz View Post :
There is no doubt that Rival > Sora. Whether Rival > 105 or Rival > Ultegra depends on who you ask. But there is more to it than that. I would MUCH rather ride a Sora bike that fits me than a Rival (or Dura-Ace, or whatever) that didn't. A good deal on spendy components on a poor fitting bike isn't really a good deal at all. The only downside of buying your first road bike online is that you have no idea of what size you really need given differences in frame geometry.

That's exactly my problem! I have somewhere between a 29-30" inseam and I'm 5'4. This deal would work for me if I could figure out whether to go for the 51 or for the smaller model.
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