Slickdeals Saves U! Vote for our Slickdeals scholarship finalists! Learn More
Forum Thread

Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

16,537 1,607 May 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM
I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help




1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners
[partselect.com]
Dishwashers [partselect.com]
Dryer [partselect.com]
Freezer [partselect.com]
Stove or oven [partselect.com]
Refrigerators [partselect.com]
Washing Machine [partselect.com]
Trash Compactor [partselect.com]


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR


Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem!
Ahem again


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms

Appliance Recallsupdated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line
Cleaning a Condensing Unit
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer [applianceaid.com]
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread for reference purposes.

Community Wiki

Last Edited by daniel32 May 28, 2009 at 12:40 PM
Soccer

Please have model and serial number available for assistance.

donation to local charity optional, but preferred.





This post can be edited by most users to provide up-to-date information about developments of this thread based on user responses, and user findings. Feel free to add, change or remove information shown here as it becomes available. This includes new coupons, rebates, ideas, thread summary, and similar items.

Once a Thread Wiki is added to a thread, "Create Wiki" button will disappear. If you would like to learn more about Thread Wiki feature, click here.

1,304 Comments

73 74 75 76 77

Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.

This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Oct 2004
L6: Expert
1,614 Posts
348 Reputation
#1111
Quote from BikerEric
:
You just have to twist and slightly carefully bend the panel to get it out try not to kink it though
Thanks. I will keep you posted.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Oct 2004
L6: Expert
1,614 Posts
348 Reputation
#1112
Quote from BikerEric
:
You just have to twist and slightly carefully bend the panel to get it out try not to kink it though
Update: I could not get the panel off so I called a repair service. The repair tech said that he could not find anything wrong with the refrigerator, but suggested that he could replace the cold control/thermostat.

He did not give a warranty for his diagnosis. I could see the heating start defrosting. He was able to manually start a defrost cycle. He did not test any parts with a multi-meter. Will replacing the cold control, fix my problem? I can install this myself.

I explained to him that the refrigerator turns completely off like it is going into defrost mode, but stays off for longer than 30 minutes. It does this every few hours. Previously, the defrost cycle was two or three times per day.

I noticed after leaving the refrigerator off for five days and doing a thorough cleaning that the temperature on the fridge side fluctuated between 34 and 46 degrees within a few hours. On my old Frigidaire SxS, the fridge side stayed cold for three days until the back of the freezer panel filled with ice.

Thanks for your help. Pic below is freezer after 24 hours.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Aug 2004
L10: Grand Master
16,537 Posts
1,607 Reputation
Original Poster
#1113
Does the coil totally ice over? or just frost up?

It could possibly be the defrost termination t-stat ( the black thing with the red and wires on top of the coil) It looks like the red wires are tied to the fan which mean the fan might not be coming on due to the DTT-stat


Air temp will change rapidly in a refrigerator freezer
We always take the temps by testing the Mayo or jelly in the fridge and the ice cream in the freezer with a probe type thermometer.

Let it go for a week ( with food in it and then lets get a shot of the coil


And the service dude should have done some meter work on the timer and the DTT-stat
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
"Lord, make me quick and accurate. Let my aim be true and my hand faster than those who would seek to destroy me. Grant me victory over my foes and those who wish to do harm to me and mine. Let not my last thought be 'If I only had my gun." And Lord, if today is truly the day you call me home Let me die in a pile of empty brass."
Amen

"I CELERITER TEMPUS DEFICIT" look it up

"It is said , That some suffer from insanity. I, however, choose to enjoy it!"
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Oct 2004
L6: Expert
1,614 Posts
348 Reputation
#1114
Quote from BikerEric
:
Does the coil totally ice over? or just frost up? Let it go for a week (with food in it and then lets get a shot of the coil
And the service dude should have done some meter work on the timer and the DTT-stat
Thanks. The coil appears to frost up, not totally ice over. Will do the mayo thing and get a shot of the coil. I threw away all of the fridge food, it made me sick. The service guys were here 3 days in a row and no one did any meter work.

I must add another symptom. The freezer door is sticking, I have to pull real hard and when I close the door, it makes a whooshing sound through the system and a clunk.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Aug 2004
L10: Grand Master
16,537 Posts
1,607 Reputation
Original Poster
#1115
Quote from dealhustlr
:
Thanks. The coil appears to frost up, not totally ice over. Will do the mayo thing and get a shot of the coil. I threw away all of the fridge food, it made me sick. The service guys were here 3 days in a row and no one did any meter work.

I must add another symptom. The freezer door is sticking, I have to pull real hard and when I close the door, it makes a whooshing sound through the system and a clunk.

When you open the freezer door , all the cold air drops right out of the bottom
When you close it , that cold air has been replaced with warm moist air. The air then contracts as it gets cool, causing a vacuum in the compartment , making it hard to open the door. The cluck could be the door cam wearing
Do both doors line up at the top when closed? or is the frzr door a bit lower?
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Nov 2005
L10: Grand Master
28,059 Posts
3,706 Reputation
#1116
Hey guys here I am with another HVAC question.

Back last winter the igniter failed on my FURNACE. I forget the model but it was a Beckett version on a Lenox furnace. Fortunately my furnace servicing guy came through and got the part in a couple days (I supplement with wood so we weren't entirely in a lurch). He did some simple tests including an arcing test with a screwdriver and determined the igniter wasn't sending out as high a voltage as it should.

Anyway, the furnace and my (oil fired) water heater are the same vintage... about 10 years old. Well wouldn't ya know I get home and DW is complaining there's no hot water. Uh oh.

So I get to the basement, and the HWH is tripped. I reset it and its behaviour is exactly like the furnace was last winter. You hear a blower kick on, smell diesel, then after a bit of time it trips and shuts off. I took the igniter (Beckett 746001 which has been replaced by the 51771U) off a couple times (it's one of the spring terminal ones), checked the hot eye, etc, everything looked cool so I press the reset button once or twice and VOOM... ignition. The furnace did the same thing for a few days then the reset would not work - e.g. it wouldn't ignite at all.

So my question is - do these igniters have a pretty well defined life span or is it just dumb luck that both, by the same manufacturer, would shit the bed at about the same age? I'm assuming the igniter on the HWH is shot, too - for $45 I'll proactively replace it, if anything, and it's certainly a lot cheaper than calling a repairman.

The joys of home ownership.....
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Nov 2005
L10: Grand Master
28,059 Posts
3,706 Reputation
#1117
BAH when it rains it pours I guess....

So I ordered the new igniter for the HWH and it will be here tomorrow but the unit has been behaving (just like the furnace did).

BUT I get home.... going to bed and notice - the AC unit (e.g. compressor) has been on for some time but the act is not reaching the set. Hmmm. Air is flowing from the ducts but isn't particularly cold. I went downstairs - one copper line felt quite hot (couldn't hold onto it) and the other was certainly warm, but not as hot as the other. I found that the condensate drain line was full so I pulled it off (made a mess of water... it shot out rather forcefully). I turned the unit off (checked breakers, of course and cycled them) then lowered the tstat so it would call - air handler came on but I couldn't hear anything from outside (e.g. compressor). So I walked out in the rain and the unit it just.... humming. I "smacked" it a few times and the fan rotated a bit (not with force but it wasn't bound IOW). The fan motor (rather the compressor cover right where the fan motor sits) was quite warm. I am not sure why the compressor didn't start - could be thermal protection of some sort (don't they have a built in feature to prevent frequent cycling??).

Since it's 11:30 and pitch black I will take the electrical cover off tomorrow. I've replaced the contactor once a few years back when a mouse decided to commit suicide on it - and the unit is 10 years old.

It was certainly working last weekend - and I want to say it was working earlier in the day as the humidity inside is certainly lower than outside.

Looking online many people seem to point to a bad (dual) starting cap causing the fan not to spin, which would certainly cause a cooling issue.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0

Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.

This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Feb 2007
L10: Grand Master
6,791 Posts
#1118
Quote from Dr. J
:
BAH when it rains it pours I guess....

So I ordered the new igniter for the HWH and it will be here tomorrow but the unit has been behaving (just like the furnace did).

BUT I get home.... going to bed and notice - the AC unit (e.g. compressor) has been on for some time but the act is not reaching the set. Hmmm. Air is flowing from the ducts but isn't particularly cold. I went downstairs - one copper line felt quite hot (couldn't hold onto it) and the other was certainly warm, but not as hot as the other. I found that the condensate drain line was full so I pulled it off (made a mess of water... it shot out rather forcefully). I turned the unit off (checked breakers, of course and cycled them) then lowered the tstat so it would call - air handler came on but I couldn't hear anything from outside (e.g. compressor). So I walked out in the rain and the unit it just.... humming. I "smacked" it a few times and the fan rotated a bit (not with force but it wasn't bound IOW). The fan motor (rather the compressor cover right where the fan motor sits) was quite warm. I am not sure why the compressor didn't start - could be thermal protection of some sort (don't they have a built in feature to prevent frequent cycling??).

Since it's 11:30 and pitch black I will take the electrical cover off tomorrow. I've replaced the contactor once a few years back when a mouse decided to commit suicide on it - and the unit is 10 years old.

It was certainly working last weekend - and I want to say it was working earlier in the day as the humidity inside is certainly lower than outside.

Looking online many people seem to point to a bad (dual) starting cap causing the fan not to spin, which would certainly cause a cooling issue.
That could be the case...(cap)
some have protection and some t-stats have it built in
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
for those that hate spelling mistakes www.walmarts.comCool

bulb save money by checking your insurance every 2 years (and not every 20) Thanks Liberty Mutual for reminding me to shop. The $842 increase this year sums it up. Across the board increase for Ohio....whatever
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Nov 2005
L10: Grand Master
28,059 Posts
3,706 Reputation
#1119
Quote from stufine
:
That could be the case...(cap)
some have protection and some t-stats have it built in

Well this AM - Cap has a very noticeable bulge in it. It IS the original (I thought I may have replaced it back with the contactor but I didn't). Right now I am trying to find a local place that would have one in stock.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Nov 2005
L10: Grand Master
28,059 Posts
3,706 Reputation
#1120
Answered my own problem - bad cap. Got a same-day replacement from a local parts place for $8. Yes, $8! I was surprised when they told me the price as most internet dealers were in the $30-$40 range, so $8 was a steal. House is nice and cool again!
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Feb 2007
L10: Grand Master
6,791 Posts
#1121
Quote from Dr. J
:
Answered my own problem - bad cap. Got a same-day replacement from a local parts place for $8. Yes, $8! I was surprised when they told me the price as most internet dealers were in the $30-$40 range, so $8 was a steal. House is nice and cool again!
its a joke on how much markup they have on caps. 8-15 is normal online price, add ship and you got a good deal, same day you can't beat
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Nov 2005
L10: Grand Master
28,059 Posts
3,706 Reputation
#1122
Quote from stufine
:
its a joke on how much markup they have on caps. 8-15 is normal online price, add ship and you got a good deal, same day you can't beat
'
I didn't do an exhaustive search but the low was ~ $16 and high ~ $55 but it seemed most were $28-$35 or so; shipping not considered.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Oct 2007
Foxiest of the Hounds
12,912 Posts
387 Reputation
#1123
Quote from Dr. J
:
'
I didn't do an exhaustive search but the low was ~ $16 and high ~ $55 but it seemed most were $28-$35 or so; shipping not considered.
I've found that amazon and repairclinic are my go-to sites to get a baseline price for any replacement parts. Then i go from there to decide how much more searching I want to do to save money or save time and just order the thing. Going local is a must for something you need urgently, and in the case of an A/C unit on a hot day, i'd say that certainly qualifies. The fact that it was cheaper than you could find online was just icing on the cake.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Quote from toolio20
:
Achievements are not for the meek, it is better to forfeit inheritance of the earth so that the mighty may look upon my gamerscore, and despair. Achievements are for men who dream; men who dare; men who achieve! Men who carve out entire galaxies with nothing more than nimble cheetos-dusted fingers and their wits, and in our leisurely twilight days we shall sit by softly flickering fires with our descendants recounting the tales of these unimaginable glories.
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Jul 2007
L10: Grand Master
18,117 Posts
1,013 Reputation
#1124
Hi Eric! I have a whole-home HVAC system. It's about seven years old, in temperate Northern California. Recently, the system makes a rumbling sound after it's been running for 20-40 minutes. The rumbling continues long after I shut off the system via the thermostat. The rumbling sounds like a fan that isn't spinning correctly.

What do you think this is, and do you think I can fix it myself?
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Last edited by Rebound July 26, 2014 at 05:27 PM.
This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users
Joined Oct 2008
Professional Novice
10,559 Posts
1,816 Reputation
#1125
Recently my air conditioner fan would not stay on longer than a few seconds before turning off even if the temperature didn't reach my desired setting. I was recommended an HVAC guy by a co-worker but I think that guy is completely ripping me off possibly.

He came over and turned on just the fan without the AC and it would still turn off on its own. His diagnosis was that the inside motor was bad. He said I have such an old unit that I would need a universal motor because the one in my unit was a shaded pole motor which isn't made anymore. He lead me to believe that this is an expensive part...like $300 or so.

The next day he came back with the motor and changed it out. We turned on the unit and it worked as it should. Then he hands me his bill for $575. He was there an hour and a half or less and spent most of that time sitting on his bucket on the porch putting the new motor in place of the old one.

That night I noticed that the AC stayed on all night but now my place was actually getting warmer than the temperature outside. I call the guy back the next day and ask what the problem is and he says over the phone that it sounds like my outside fan is now not working (weird freaking coincidence). It was working perfectly fine just a week ago and now they both go out at the same time?

He comes over the following morning and changes the motor for my outside unit with a used motor that he happened to have on his van. Again, less than an hour and a half of work and this time he charges me an additional $295 while also telling me that it's a $200 discount of what he would have normally charged for that job. With this bill however, he told me I have 30 days before I need to mail him the money (to the address on his invoice) but also told me that if I'm not satisfied for any reason, I don't have to pay that remaining amount in full.

I don't want to not pay him just for the sake of it but I definitely don't want to pay him if I'm obviously getting ripped off.

In total he is trying to charge me $870 to replace the motor for both the inside and outside units. Total time spent working was probably 3 hours and one of the motors I got was used. Is this a fair charge for the services or should I call him out on trying to hustle me?

The new motor for the inside unit has the following on the label (I have no idea which numbers are relevant)
Mars 10584
Y7S623B546S
E256965
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Never trade with FloridaGamer. He is a scammer


Slickdeals - where you can live like a King on the salary of a Jester
Page 75 of 87
73 74 75 76 77
Join the Conversation
Add a Comment
 
Copyright 1999 - 2018. Slickdeals, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Copyright / Infringement Policy  •  Privacy Policy  •  Terms of Service  •  Acceptable Use Policy (Rules)  •  Interest-Based Ads
Link Copied to Clipboard