Forum Thread

Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

BikerEric 16,541 1,607 May 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM
I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help




1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners
[partselect.com]
Dishwashers [partselect.com]
Dryer [partselect.com]
Freezer [partselect.com]
Stove or oven [partselect.com]
Refrigerators [partselect.com]
Washing Machine [partselect.com]
Trash Compactor [partselect.com]


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR


Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem!
Ahem again


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms

Appliance Recallsupdated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line
Cleaning a Condensing Unit
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer [applianceaid.com]
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread for reference purposes.

Community Wiki

Last Edited by daniel32 May 28, 2009 at 12:40 PM
Soccer

Please have model and serial number available for assistance.

donation to local charity optional, but preferred.





This post can be edited by most users to provide up-to-date information about developments of this thread based on user responses, and user findings. Feel free to add, change or remove information shown here as it becomes available. This includes new coupons, rebates, ideas, thread summary, and similar items.

Once a Thread Wiki is added to a thread, "Create Wiki" button will disappear. If you would like to learn more about Thread Wiki feature, click here.

1,235 Comments

48 49 50 51 52

Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.

#736
Quote from Damocles View Post :
will do. i know what the flame sensor is. i'll google for vacuum switches. :-).

thanks for the help guys.
easy find
the black round things with hoses going to them.
the inducer kicks on and creates vacuum through the hoses to the switch/s. they close and complete the circuit..
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
for those that hate spelling mistakes www.walmarts.comCool

bulb save money by checking your insurance every 2 years (and not every 20)
#737
Quote from stufine View Post :
easy find
the black round things with hoses going to them.
the inducer kicks on and creates vacuum through the hoses to the switch/s. they close and complete the circuit..
see it. i'll grab a multimeter at work tomorrow. circuit board shows no visual damage. flame sensor seems clean/new.

i watched the cycle. this probably doesn't provide any meaningful info, but:
1. after about 5 minutes flame abruptly stops
2. inducer runs for about one more minute and then stops
3. blower runs for about 2 more minutes and then stops.

there is plenty of exhaust coming out of my house (92% efficiency, PVC straight to outside) so there is no total vent block (ie, squirrel nest) but i can't say for certain that there is no blockage.

there are 3 or 4 hoses for water drainage. the ones that are clear seem damp inside, but in 5 minutes of cycle time water isn't really flowing. i don't know if water blockage can also cause cycle premature shutoff.

i'll check the vacuum switch tomorrow.

(by the way, what are all the little metal "buttons" everywhere that seem like some sort of cable junction mounted to the furnace frame? are those sensing something?)

thanks again!
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Last edited by Damocles December 12, 2011 at 02:01 PM
#738
flame rollout
it wont fire if one is tripped.. they are push to reset
ive had them tripped before for no reason but when a heat exchanger gets a crack it can blow the flame back out.

flame sensor almost always looks that good. i clean it just to eliminate the chance.

there is a slight chance water is blocking the vacuum switch hole. would only get to 1 hole if you have 2 switches. you would hear the water beating in the inducer fan
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#739
Have a tenant telling me that her Whirlpool gas range broiler isn't as hot as it used to be, and describes it taking much longer to cook food. It's a dedicated upper burning tube; the oven has it's own tube (and ignitor) under the bottom of the oven and is fine.

It might be that the ignitor is getting weak, although it glows enough to start the broiler. As I understand the operation the ignitor only allows the tube to light, and once it's lit serves no purpose. Will the broiler go off if the ignitor is weak? I can't think of anything else that can go wrong once it's lit.

This is the range:
http://www.appliance-parts-wareho...-78618.cfm
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#740
Quote from stufine View Post :
flame rollout
it wont fire if one is tripped.. they are push to reset
ive had them tripped before for no reason but when a heat exchanger gets a crack it can blow the flame back out.

flame sensor almost always looks that good. i clean it just to eliminate the chance.

there is a slight chance water is blocking the vacuum switch hole. would only get to 1 hole if you have 2 switches. you would hear the water beating in the inducer fan
ok, i think i identified the weird behavior. for some reason when the temp reaches 3 degrees below the set temp, the furnace stops. note, the thermostat still says "system on" but the flame kicks out. now that i have a new ignitor, it restarts and keeps going. when i had a broken ignitor, that explains why the cycle time varied so much. if it was 65 when i turned on the heat (set to 68) it would only run 5 minutes. if it was a morning and it was 60 when i turned on the heat, it would run 30-45 minutes, until it reached 65.

a thermostat is all-or-nothing right? i mean, whether it is 10 degrees below, 3 below, or 1 below, it only sends an ON voltage, right? so if the thermostat still says "system on" then what is sending the OFF signal? and why is it always 3 degrees below set temp?

the batteries in the thermostat are brand new (2 weeks).
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#741
(can't edit for some reason)

my concern is that i leave for vacation for 2 weeks, and if it has a short cycle time to keep reaching those final 3 degrees, it may be cycling a lot.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#742
not sure why it would cycle trying to get the last 3.
some stats have a reset button under the cover
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0

Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.

#743
Looking for a quick answer on this one.

Gas dryer, lint leaks through the foam gasket connecting the drum to the vent assembly.

Is there anything special about it - do I have to buy the replacement part or will some self adhesive 1/2" weatherstrippurlhasbeenblockedst as well?


update: big box store self adhesive 1/2" foam weather ? worked fine. Why does this site block the word that follows weather? There was no URL associated with what I posted above.

I still don't know if the replacement foam part Whirlpool sells is the same material as what I used, or temperature rated.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Last edited by Brattles December 16, 2011 at 01:01 PM
Joined Jan 2005
Slick Deals Addict
3,076 Posts
1,056 Reputation
#744
Quote from batterycharger View Post :
Have a tenant telling me that her Whirlpool gas range broiler isn't as hot as it used to be, and describes it taking much longer to cook food. It's a dedicated upper burning tube; the oven has it's own tube (and ignitor) under the bottom of the oven and is fine.

It might be that the ignitor is getting weak, although it glows enough to start the broiler. As I understand the operation the ignitor only allows the tube to light, and once it's lit serves no purpose. Will the broiler go off if the ignitor is weak? I can't think of anything else that can go wrong once it's lit.

This is the range:
http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/whirlpool-parts/Whirlpool-Range-Stove-Oven-Hood-Parts/Whirlpool-Parts-SF385PEGQ3/Whirlpool-Parts-78618.cfm


Had this same exact problem few weeks ago with a Frigidaire gas oven. The ignitor current also flows to the gas valve. If there's not enough current flow thru the ignitor, the valve doesn't open all the way and you aren't getting a full on flame, just a partial weak flame. I replaced the ignitor and got a full on flame.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Joined Jan 2005
Slick Deals Addict
3,076 Posts
1,056 Reputation
#745
Quote from Damocles View Post :
ok, i think i identified the weird behavior. for some reason when the temp reaches 3 degrees below the set temp, the furnace stops. note, the thermostat still says "system on" but the flame kicks out. now that i have a new ignitor, it restarts and keeps going. when i had a broken ignitor, that explains why the cycle time varied so much. if it was 65 when i turned on the heat (set to 68) it would only run 5 minutes. if it was a morning and it was 60 when i turned on the heat, it would run 30-45 minutes, until it reached 65.

a thermostat is all-or-nothing right? i mean, whether it is 10 degrees below, 3 below, or 1 below, it only sends an ON voltage, right? so if the thermostat still says "system on" then what is sending the OFF signal? and why is it always 3 degrees below set temp?

the batteries in the thermostat are brand new (2 weeks).


I'm guessing a safety is tripping the furnace off. I'm guessing an overtemp on the exchanger and/or a filter/return air obstruction.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#746
Quote from beefcake78 View Post :
OK another one for you:

Dishwasher
GE Mod GSD3230ZZ3WW
SER SV603610A

Problem: not fully draining.. When I pull the screen out
http://www.partselect.com/PS25922...d3230zz3ww
there is water in this depression, it is drain water, also at times a very small amount in the low spot of the dishwasher around this area.

When I plug in the model no of my dishwasher at partselect I don't get to the diagram which shows me what is under the drain. If you look at the diagram on the above link http://www.partselect.com/Schemat...583i02.gif you see part 564, 555, 560, 559. Are these not on my model or ???

Any help welcome. Thanks
Poked around underneath and found water dripping when the solenoid opens the drain line. Looks like the motor housing so have written off the unit and am going shopping this week.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Joined Sep 2009
L10: Grand Master
6,208 Posts
542 Reputation
#747
Quote from Damocles View Post :
general question: is it normal for a gas furnace to cut off periodically, even though the set-temp has not been reached yet? ie, is there a "max run time" built in where it will only heat for 30 minutes, say, and then turn itself off and wait a few minutes before restarting? or does that indicate a flaw in the system? i thought someone once told me that if there was a leak in the heat exchanger, pressure could build up, which would cause the furnace to shut off periodically. i don't recall the details though.

(i have an old janitrol (~15 years old i believe), if that changes the answer. GMNT080-4, although i was thinking the question/answer may be broader than a single model)
For all we know it could be the thermostat. It's easy enough to jumper it to bypass it though. Another thing to do would be to watch the disc on the fan limit switch to see if that's rotating to see if that's what's switching the furnace off.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Joined Sep 2009
L10: Grand Master
6,208 Posts
542 Reputation
#748
Quote from Damocles View Post :
(can't edit for some reason)

my concern is that i leave for vacation for 2 weeks, and if it has a short cycle time to keep reaching those final 3 degrees, it may be cycling a lot.
If it were my house I'd turn it off and shut down the furnace (put out pilot light and switch breaker off).
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#749
Quote from zzyzzx View Post :
If it were my house I'd turn it off and shut down the furnace (put out pilot light and switch breaker off).
sure.. by the time the insurance quote comes in from broken pipes and the damage that follows...
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0

Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.

#750
Quote from stufine View Post :
sure.. by the time the insurance quote comes in from broken pipes and the damage that follows...
He forgot to mention the space heater he would plug in (to 2 extension cords) and leave unattended.
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Page 50 of 83
48 49 50 51 52
Join the Conversation
Add a Comment
 
Copyright 1999 - 2016. Slickdeals, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Copyright / Infringement Policy  •  Privacy Policy  •  Terms of Service  •  Acceptable Use Policy (Rules)
Link Copied to Clipboard