Forum Thread

Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

BikerEric 16,541 1,607 May 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM
I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help




1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners
[partselect.com]
Dishwashers [partselect.com]
Dryer [partselect.com]
Freezer [partselect.com]
Stove or oven [partselect.com]
Refrigerators [partselect.com]
Washing Machine [partselect.com]
Trash Compactor [partselect.com]


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR


Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem!
Ahem again


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms

Appliance Recallsupdated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line
Cleaning a Condensing Unit
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer [applianceaid.com]
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread for reference purposes.

Community Wiki

Last Edited by daniel32 May 28, 2009 at 12:40 PM
Soccer

Please have model and serial number available for assistance.

donation to local charity optional, but preferred.





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Joined Sep 2009
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#751
Quote from stufine View Post :
sure.. by the time the insurance quote comes in from broken pipes and the damage that follows...
When I go out of town I close the valve for my water supply and drain the pipes some.
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#752
Are there any water heater experts here?

About 2-3 weeks ago we had our water heater replaced. Our local plumber installed a 50 gal - 38,000 btu Rheem gas water heater. Water heater is located in our finished basement.

It seems now as we take a shower, after about 3-4 minutes, the water temperature begins to drop. I mean the water is still hot just not as hot as we first started. Is this normal?

I don't remember this happening with our old water heater. You set the valve to desired temperature and water temperature remained constant till you were finished. Now, now it's like little by little you have to nudge the valve hotter and hotter to keep the water hot.
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#753
hook it up correctly?
inlet to cold side?
is the gas valve on all the way?
there is a fill tube on the inlet so it brings the cold water in at the bottom. never had on break on install
if its set to the normal temp you may need to raise it..i do on my own but set it normal on ones i install for others
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for those that hate spelling mistakes www.walmarts.comCool

bulb save money by checking your insurance every 2 years (and not every 20)
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#754
Quote from Jedi5 View Post :
Are there any water heater experts here?

About 2-3 weeks ago we had our water heater replaced. Our local plumber installed a 50 gal - 38,000 btu Rheem gas water heater. Water heater is located in our finished basement.

It seems now as we take a shower, after about 3-4 minutes, the water temperature begins to drop. I mean the water is still hot just not as hot as we first started. Is this normal?

I don't remember this happening with our old water heater. You set the valve to desired temperature and water temperature remained constant till you were finished. Now, now it's like little by little you have to nudge the valve hotter and hotter to keep the water hot.


Check the water temp and carefully adjust if necessary. A licensed plumber would not set the water temp above the manufacturer's suggested setting (which should be 120F) unless he'd be willing to risk a lawsuit. Water temp will drop from the setting on the hot water heater by the time it gets to your fixture. Depending on how hot you like your shower, this may not be acceptable to you. I've got my hot water heater set to 140F, water drops to about 135 at the showerhead and I've got recirc line for the hot water along with all hot water lines insulated. Your temp drop may be even more with uninsulated lines.
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#755
Deleting - problem fixed
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Last edited by Eaglefan January 6, 2012 at 03:11 AM
#756
Deleting-dup post
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Last edited by Eaglefan January 6, 2012 at 03:12 AM
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#757
I need some genuine HVAC help.

I bought 2 new programmable tstats for my house (Honeywell RTH7600D [honeywell.com]). I currently have the typical tstats (model RobertShaw 9500 [uni-line.com]). These are wired to a zone controller (EWC-ST-2E [ewccontrols.com]). Heat is provided by an oil fired burner & forced air, and we have AC. Forced air is controlled by 2 dampers off the furnace. The zone controller manual lists Honeywell TH4100D [houseneeds.com] as a programmable replacement for zone 1 tstat (reference).

The 1st floor tstat was easy to replace - 3 wires: R, W and Y (Rc and Rh are jumpered). These of course control the heat and cool relays. The incoming cable only has the 3 wires.

The 2nd floor tstat, however, threw me for a loop. In that tstat, ALL the wires are connected. R, Y, W and then O, G and B. The new tstat does not have an accommodation for O (see link). On page 21 of the manual, it says I connect R, E, Y and G to their respective terminals, and B to C. This leaves O.

Cross-referencing vs the old tstat and zone controller (see pdfs), it seems that O is the "cool active reversing valve", whatever that is, and B is the "heat active reversing valve" (RobertShaw tstat). The zone controller diagram doesn't label O.

Questions:
- will this tstat work with my system?
- if not, can I rewire the system?

My 2nd question is based on the following - from what I gather, the 2nd set of wires (BGO) tell the zone controller what mode to be in (heat or cool, BO) and if the fan should be on or in auto (G). Now, I will never, nor can I, run heat in one part of the house and the AC in the other part, so these will be the same all the time. Also, the fan will almost always be in auto, but I have thought or installing a separate switch to activate the fan for the entire house.

SO, if the tstat won't work as is, could I install a separate selector switch (like in figure 3 on page 3 of the EWC pdf) alongside the 2nd floor tstat (where the BGO wires are run to), and then the 2nd floor tstat would function just like the 1st floor?

OR, could the second set of terminals (meant for 2 stage devices) be used somehow?

EDIT - I have also thought - if this second set of wires (BO) are for mode control, is there a reason why they cannot be jumpered to the Y/W wires? This depends on what the zone controller is doing wrt demand on the slave zone. For example, if I jumper the heat/cool wires together, respectively (Y to O and W to B) on the master tstat (2nd floor), when the master stat calls for heat, it will energize "heat on" and also "heat demand" (e.g. it will have the effect of turning the system mode to heat while simultaneously calling for heat (turning on the furnace)). The same goes for cooling. This is the same as if every time the old tstat called for heat, you went and turned the switch on the front from off to heat, but automatic. The only downside I can possibly see is that if the 1st floor tstat (slave) calls for heat but the 2nd floor (master) doesn't, the zone controller won't be in "heat" mode (because the 2nd floor isn't calling for heat), and the furnace will not come on. A couple caveats to this - I am not sure what the system does already - I have been told that if the master isn't calling for heat/cool, then the slave doesn't activate the furnace/ac anyway (e.g. the heat/cool demand from the slave only controls the dampers regardless of what the system is actually doing). Second, the master tstat is usually the one that calls for heat/cool anyway - in the summer, it's on the 2nd floor so it's always hotter than the 1st floor (calling for AC first), and in the winter, I run a wood stove in the same room as the slave tstat which is almost always above 70F anyway, and the master tstat on the 2nd floor is the one calling for heat.
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Last edited by Dr. J January 6, 2012 at 06:45 AM

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#758
Quote from Dr. J View Post :
The 2nd floor tstat, however, threw me for a loop. In that tstat, ALL the wires are connected. R, Y, W and then O, G and B. The new tstat does not have an accommodation for O (see link). On page 21 of the manual, it says I connect R, E, Y and G to their respective terminals, and B to C. This leaves O.
I am not sure if you can use that thermostat, but the first thing that came to my mind was to check the other end of that thermostat cable to see what everything was currently connected to.
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#759
Quote from zzyzzx View Post :
I am not sure if you can use that thermostat, but the first thing that came to my mind was to check the other end of that thermostat cable to see what everything was currently connected to.

Well the long and short of it is that the OB were connected in the zone controller; these tells the ZC what mode the system is in - heat (B) or cool (O). so these NEED to be connected in order for the system to do anything. Basically I connected the 2nd floor tstat as usual, including the G wire (fan control) and put a SPDT switch on the ZC itself to switch between heat and cool. It's not a big deal - ideally you'd only switch twice a year. Having that switch in the basement rather than on a tstat isn't a big deal to me.
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#760
I have a Fisher Paykel GWL11 electric top loading washer. It's about 5 or 6 years old, and we are starting to get brown/rust/grease stains on our cloths. I've been doing some research on the issue and it looks like there are some gears that need to be cleaned up, but I don't know how to get to them or find them. For the purposes of this questions lets dismiss the water source as the problem. I'd like to know if anyone knows where to find a PDF Service manual for the washer or know how to open it up to clean the gears.
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Quote from vviles View Post :
This ordeal is like a fire tempering a sword. It's making chewy even tougher. If he got leprosy and his arm fell off, he'd beat the shit out of a bear, dip his stump in lemon juice and sew it back on with his good hand.
#761
I have a top-loading Amana electric (clothes) washing machine, with a stain-steel drum.
The washing machine started to smoke, so I am scrapping it. I am tring to removed the agitator, so I can recycle the stain-steel drum.

I tried to lift the agitator straight up, but it will not budge. I tried to twist it, again it will not move. And suggestions to removed the agitator?

THanks
P.S. There is not bolt inside of the agitator.
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Last edited by s_T_Blue January 13, 2012 at 06:57 AM
#762
Quote from s_T_Blue View Post :
I have a top-loading Amana electric (clothes) washing machine, with a stain-steel drum.
The washing machine started to smoke, so I am scrapping it. I am tring to removed the agitator, so I can recycle the stain-steel drum.

I tried to lift the agitator straight up, but it will not budge. I tried to twist it, again it will not move. And suggestions to removed the agitator?

THanks
P.S. There is not bolt inside of the agitator.

I first tried a claw hammer and then I tried a small pry bar. This did not do the trick.

Then I tried 2 claw hammers, one each side of the agitator. Then work the claw of the hammers under the edge of the agitator. Do this on each side. Then pry up with the hammers together and then then I rotated the 2 claw hammers to another part under agitator, then the aditator came off.

I hope this helps, it worked for me.
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#763
HP is working great ever since i replaced the defrost board and the electric bill dropped some.
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#764
Idea:

I have a typical furnace setup - oil burner, forced air. the exhaust pipes from the burner (to the chimney) are extremely hot to the touch when the furnace is on. This is wasted heat!

Could I wire in a relay of sorts off the 24V that activates the house fan (or the furnace itself for that matter), to start (turn on) a box fan (or other fan) to blow over the exhaust ductwork? The real solution would be to put a heat exchanger in with a blower, but this would suffice for now. My basement doesn't get that cold, but every bit of heat helps!

Could the 24VAC trip the fan/furnace relay AND a secondary relay as well?
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#765
Improving the HVAC filters in my house. I suffer from allergies and would like to convert my home HVAC unit to use 2" filters instead of the 1" it came with to improve filtration and not cut efficiency. I know I can buy a better filter and I do (Usually MERV 10 or so). My understanding that a thicker filter is better as well since you have more surface area exposed to the air.

The opening in the top will fit a 2" filter and I think all I will need to do is drill out the old rivits that holds the small sheet metal bracket and move them over a little bit. Rivet them back into place, seal the old holes and I should be good to go. Is my logic sound on this one? Any potential problems I should be aware of?
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Vague questions receive vague answers . . . . . .
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