Amazon has SharkBite 1/2"x3/8" Compression Angle Stop Brass Plumbing Valve (23036-0000LF) on sale for $9.49. Shipping is free w/ Prime or on $35+ orders.
Thanks to Deal Hunter phoinix for finding this deal
Note, product must be sold/shipped by Amazon
About the Product
3/8" Compression
1/2" PTC
Angle Stop Valve/Push to Connect
Durable/Quarter Turn Full Port Brass Ball Valve
Quick Installation/No Special Tools Needed
Chrome Finish/Stainless Steel
Editor's Notes & Price Research
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Our research indicates that this deal is $2.96 less (23.78% savings) than the next best available price from a reputable merchant with prices starting from $12.45 at the time of this posting
Used to control and shut-off water flow to fixtures or appliances for maintenance or repair
Unit is typically used on stub-outs coming from the wall; can be installed in wet lines
Push Angle stop fittings work well w/ PEX, CPVC, PE-RT, SDR-9, HDPE and copper pipes
Offer valid while pricing/supplies last
Additional Notes
Please see original post for additional details & give the WIKI and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion - Discombobulated
SharkBite 1/2 x 3/8 Inch Compression Angle Stop Valve, Quarter Turn, Push to Connect Brass Plumbing Fitting, PEX Pipe, Copper, CPVC, PE-RT, HDPE, 23036-0000LF
Manufacturer:
Cash Acme
Model Number:
23036-0000LF
Product SKU:
B004XM5GE6
UPC:
7131405261031
ASIN:
B004XM5GE6
Brand:
SharkBite
Item Dimensions LxWxH:
6 x 4 x 6 inches
Item Weight:
0.05 Pounds
Item model number:
23036-0000LF
Manufacturer:
Cash Acme
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Not a bad idea to have one of these on hand if you have a toilet shut-off valve you haven't touched in awhile. Old shut-offs tend to leak the second you touch them.
While certainly many exceptions exist most standard residential household plumbing to areas like kitchen sink cabinets, bathroom sink cabinets, toilets, etc is through 1/2" feed lines, be it copper, PEX, etc. from there it typically is reduced to a 3/8" male fitting where you'd connect your 3/8" supply line directly to the fixture. So assuming the pipe below your old shut-off is 1/2" you'd cut that cleanly off (after isolating off course, even if it means shutting the main water supply and opening a faucet below stream to drain residual water), clean the outside of the pipe and debur the inside, set the 1/2" side to proper depth over the 1/2" pipe, close the valve, test the connection by turning the water back on and pressurizing the line, then hook the female 3/8" of your supply line running to the fixture to the 3/8" outlet of this adapter.
Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank rod4400
05-07-2024 at 12:16 PM.
Not a bad idea to have one of these on hand if you have a toilet shut-off valve you haven't touched in awhile. Old shut-offs tend to leak the second you touch them.
This is really closed to HD every day price for brasscraft brand "push to connect" valves which I find to be everybit as good as sharkbite brand. Also when I buy in quantity I can get them down to about $5/pc
This is really closed to HD every day price for brasscraft brand "push to connect" valves which I find to be everybit as good as sharkbite brand. Also when I buy in quantity I can get them down to about $5/pc
I do the same. The regular compression right angle valves are almost $10/pc but if you buy 20 of them ( 1 box) they're only $5/pc.
Great price of you have a big project, want a few for back up, or are sharing with friends!
My go-to for most plumbing, when I'm buying online for a project, is SupplyHouse.com. They charge shipping (*gasp*) so for one-off connections they're not usually economical, but if you're getting a handful it's usually worth it.
While certainly many exceptions exist most standard residential household plumbing to areas like kitchen sink cabinets, bathroom sink cabinets, toilets, etc is through 1/2" feed lines, be it copper, PEX, etc. from there it typically is reduced to a 3/8" male fitting where you'd connect your 3/8" supply line directly to the fixture. So assuming the pipe below your old shut-off is 1/2" you'd cut that cleanly off (after isolating off course, even if it means shutting the main water supply and opening a faucet below stream to drain residual water), clean the outside of the pipe and debur the inside, set the 1/2" side to proper depth over the 1/2" pipe, close the valve, test the connection by turning the water back on and pressurizing the line, then hook the female 3/8" of your supply line running to the fixture to the 3/8" outlet of this adapter.
Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
While certainly many exceptions exist most standard residential household plumbing to areas like kitchen sink cabinets, bathroom sink cabinets, toilets, etc is through 1/2" feed lines, be it copper, PEX, etc. from there it typically is reduced to a 3/8" male fitting where you'd connect your 3/8" supply line directly to the fixture. So assuming the pipe below your old shut-off is 1/2" you'd cut that cleanly off (after isolating off course, even if it means shutting the main water supply and opening a faucet below stream to drain residual water), clean the outside of the pipe and debur the inside, set the 1/2" side to proper depth over the 1/2" pipe, close the valve, test the connection by turning the water back on and pressurizing the line, then hook the female 3/8" of your supply line running to the fixture to the 3/8" outlet of this adapter.
Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
This info here is worth a thousand dollars. The last time I asked a plumber to replace all the old valves in the house to the quarter turn ones and it cost me more than $1000. I totally forgot that years ago I had replaced a freeze damaged outdoor spigot myself with sharkbite. I could have replaced all my valves with shark bites and saved that $1000. But I was so sick of wrestling with wrenches in tight spaces I simply forgot I could just cut it off and use sharkbite. Next house I'll remember! I'm so scared of plumbing I prefer sharkbite to compression fittings. I never feel confident that I know what I'm doing with compression fittings. Sharkbite I just push in and that's it! That spigot has been leak free for over 5 years.
Shark bite is the 1st push to fit connections sold in the US. Push to fit connections have been around since the 70's. They just showed up late to the states. I have a shark bite coupler on some copper. I have brasscraft push to fit for my hot water shutoff valve. I have a Tectite ball valve coupler push to fit for my outdoor water hose supply line.
The only rule is that you need to be able to see the fitting to use it. Nothing behind drywall when it comes to push to fit connections.
This is not a deal considering the other brands I listed are available for the same or less at Home Depot. If you want Shark bite, go for it. It's the first push to fit brand in America. Somehow that commands a price premium.
I use compression fittings as well but they can be a pain if you do not have the right tools. I have the right tools and they are still a pain to get to seal correctly.
Make sure you get the shark bite removal tool if you are going to be buying push to fit fittings. Shark bite does not include the little plastic horse shoe with their products. Other brands do include the removal tool.
My go-to for most plumbing, when I'm buying online for a project, is SupplyHouse.com. They charge shipping (*gasp*) so for one-off connections they're not usually economical, but if you're getting a handful it's usually worth it.
Bluefin version of this connector is a bit over $8, for example.
I love this place as well. You do get free super fast shipping now for orders over $99 so I tend to delay my purchase until I have enough to qualify -- of course if the project can wait
If the existing connections in your house are threaded, you would save yourself a lot of hassle by going back with threaded vs push connect which will require cutting of the threaded ends.
The thing I hate about these is they spin on the pipe meaning you need to hold them when operating the valve, especially if you're connecting braided hoses. This is a pain when it's way under a sink.
For no solder valves, I like the kind that use a compression fitting more than these since when tightened, they stay put.
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Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
https://www.homedepot.c
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank rod4400
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank kamerkar
https://www.homedepot.c
I do the same. The regular compression right angle valves are almost $10/pc but if you buy 20 of them ( 1 box) they're only $5/pc.
Great price of you have a big project, want a few for back up, or are sharing with friends!
Bath/kitchen faucet supply?
Laundry supply?
Toilet supply?
Are they usually all the same size?
https://www.supplyhouse
Bluefin version of this connector is a bit over $8, for example.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank GBAstar
Bath/kitchen faucet supply?
Laundry supply?
Toilet supply?
Are they usually all the same size?
While certainly many exceptions exist most standard residential household plumbing to areas like kitchen sink cabinets, bathroom sink cabinets, toilets, etc is through 1/2" feed lines, be it copper, PEX, etc. from there it typically is reduced to a 3/8" male fitting where you'd connect your 3/8" supply line directly to the fixture. So assuming the pipe below your old shut-off is 1/2" you'd cut that cleanly off (after isolating off course, even if it means shutting the main water supply and opening a faucet below stream to drain residual water), clean the outside of the pipe and debur the inside, set the 1/2" side to proper depth over the 1/2" pipe, close the valve, test the connection by turning the water back on and pressurizing the line, then hook the female 3/8" of your supply line running to the fixture to the 3/8" outlet of this adapter.
Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
This info here is worth a thousand dollars. The last time I asked a plumber to replace all the old valves in the house to the quarter turn ones and it cost me more than $1000. I totally forgot that years ago I had replaced a freeze damaged outdoor spigot myself with sharkbite. I could have replaced all my valves with shark bites and saved that $1000. But I was so sick of wrestling with wrenches in tight spaces I simply forgot I could just cut it off and use sharkbite. Next house I'll remember! I'm so scared of plumbing I prefer sharkbite to compression fittings. I never feel confident that I know what I'm doing with compression fittings. Sharkbite I just push in and that's it! That spigot has been leak free for over 5 years.
The only rule is that you need to be able to see the fitting to use it. Nothing behind drywall when it comes to push to fit connections.
This is not a deal considering the other brands I listed are available for the same or less at Home Depot. If you want Shark bite, go for it. It's the first push to fit brand in America. Somehow that commands a price premium.
I use compression fittings as well but they can be a pain if you do not have the right tools. I have the right tools and they are still a pain to get to seal correctly.
Make sure you get the shark bite removal tool if you are going to be buying push to fit fittings. Shark bite does not include the little plastic horse shoe with their products. Other brands do include the removal tool.
https://www.supplyhouse
Bluefin version of this connector is a bit over $8, for example.
Bath/kitchen faucet supply?
Laundry supply?
Toilet supply?
Are they usually all the same size?
If the existing connections in your house are threaded, you would save yourself a lot of hassle by going back with threaded vs push connect which will require cutting of the threaded ends.
For no solder valves, I like the kind that use a compression fitting more than these since when tightened, they stay put.