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TICONN T-Tap Wire Connectors: 480-Pc $14, 240-PC $8.40, 120-Pc Expired
$6.30
$8.95
& More
Ticonn US via Amazon has 30% Off Select T-Tap Wire Connectors Sets at prices starting from $6.26 when you add the item from the linked page below or apply promo code 30SVL28D to qualifying items at checkout. Shipping is free with Prime or on orders $25+.
Thanks to staff member JZ1989 for finding this deal.
Deal Instructions:
Thanks to staff member JZ1989 for finding this deal.
Deal Instructions:
- Go to Ticonn T-Tap Wire Connectors Sets
- Choose from the following (prices after 30% discount)
- 120-Pieces Ticonn T-Tap Wire Connectors $6.26
- 240-Pieces Ticonn T-Tap Wire Connectors $8.37
- 360-Pieces Ticonn T-Tap Wire Connectors $11.87 Now-> $11.16
- 480-Pieces Ticonn T-Tap Wire Connectors $13.97
- Add item to cart
- Proceed to checkout
- Apply promo code 30SVL28D
- Your total will start from $6.26, shipping is free with Prime or on orders $25+
Editor's Notes & Price Research
Written by
- About this deal:
- This deal (22-Piece) is $1.24 lower (15% savings) than previous Front Page deal that earned 56+ thumbs up
- About this store:
- Merchant Ticonn US has earned a 99% positive lifetime rating (8,166 total ratings)
- Don't have Amazon Prime? Students can get a free 6-Month Amazon Prime trial with free 2-day shipping, unlimited video streaming & more.
- If you're not a student, there's also a free 1-Month Amazon Prime trial available.
No Longer Available:
Original Post
Written by
Edited June 11, 2021
at 12:22 PM
TICONN US via Amazon [amazon.com] has T-Tap Wire Connectors from $6.26 + Free Shipping w/ Amazon Prime or Orders $25+.
Use code 30SVL28D for 30% off.
Use code 30SVL28D for 30% off.
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In the end, after years of car electronics work, I've learned to just say no to T-taps. A quick military splice [gm-trucks.com] is an all-around better/more dependable splice when you cannot access either end of a wire.
Current doesn't travel on the circumference of stranded wire. That's not how it works. It sounds like you are misunderstanding the skin effect that causes current to travel in the "skin" of conductors at high frequencies. This is a byproduct of some RF behavior and isn't relevant until you to get into the 10s of Kilohertz. At DC and 60Hz the skin effect is negligible and the full cross section of the wire will carry current evenly regardless of stranding.
Catching the external wires doesn't create a bottleneck as you suggest. This isn't a situation where the flow of current is only as strong as the weakest link. If you look at the math for conductors and total resistivity per unit length, it is perfectly acceptable to have very small regions of poor conductivity as their relative contribution per unit length to the total resistance of the system is negligible. The only exception to this is if there is sufficient heat generated at those points where the resistance is slightly higher. I couldn't comment on the resistance of a particular T-tap junction, but catching out wires in and of itself don't necessarily reduce the performance.
Solid wire vs stranded wire does not improve or retard current flow in any significant way. It all looks like a bulk conductor of specified cross sectional area for all intents and purposes (at the frequencies being discussed here).
That said, is a solder connection better? OF COURSE? Is it a huge hassle? YES. Would I do a solder connection instead? Yes I would, unless it was time or cost prohibitive.
These 3M copycats are probably fine for very low amperage on a size up wire, but when it matters, one might opt for protected soldered connections.
If say, you are using the full amperage of a 12guage stranded wire, whereas the current is traveling on the circumference of each strand of wire, the splice connection is the bottleneck by catching just the external wires. These would supply most of the rated current better with solid wire, but the wire tension loosens over time to cause arcing.
As an example, these will probably work fine for low wattage LED trailer lights if you waterproof the connection.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank ToolDeals
These 3M copycats are probably fine for very low amperage on a size up wire, but when it matters, one might opt for protected soldered connections.
If say, you are using the full amperage of a 12guage stranded wire, whereas the current is traveling on the circumference of each strand of wire, the splice connection is the bottleneck by catching just the external wires. These would supply most of the rated current better with solid wire, but the wire tension loosens over time to cause arcing.
As an example, these will probably work fine for low wattage LED trailer lights if you waterproof the connection.
In the end, after years of car electronics work, I've learned to just say no to T-taps. A quick military splice [gm-trucks.com] is an all-around better/more dependable splice when you cannot access either end of a wire.
In the end, after years of car electronics work, I've learned to just say no to T-taps. A quick military splice [gm-trucks.com] is an all-around better/more dependable splice when you cannot access either end of a wire.
I'd agree that a military splice is the best way to go if you want to be absolutely sure. Just need to find a good deal on the wire strippers to strip a wire in the middle.
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I been using these on 12v 3 amp lines for a few months. Works well and no issues.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Azrael_the_Cat
These 3M copycats are probably fine for very low amperage on a size up wire, but when it matters, one might opt for protected soldered connections.
If say, you are using the full amperage of a 12guage stranded wire, whereas the current is traveling on the circumference of each strand of wire, the splice connection is the bottleneck by catching just the external wires. These would supply most of the rated current better with solid wire, but the wire tension loosens over time to cause arcing.
As an example, these will probably work fine for low wattage LED trailer lights if you waterproof the connection.
Current doesn't travel on the circumference of stranded wire. That's not how it works. It sounds like you are misunderstanding the skin effect that causes current to travel in the "skin" of conductors at high frequencies. This is a byproduct of some RF behavior and isn't relevant until you to get into the 10s of Kilohertz. At DC and 60Hz the skin effect is negligible and the full cross section of the wire will carry current evenly regardless of stranding.
Catching the external wires doesn't create a bottleneck as you suggest. This isn't a situation where the flow of current is only as strong as the weakest link. If you look at the math for conductors and total resistivity per unit length, it is perfectly acceptable to have very small regions of poor conductivity as their relative contribution per unit length to the total resistance of the system is negligible. The only exception to this is if there is sufficient heat generated at those points where the resistance is slightly higher. I couldn't comment on the resistance of a particular T-tap junction, but catching out wires in and of itself don't necessarily reduce the performance.
Solid wire vs stranded wire does not improve or retard current flow in any significant way. It all looks like a bulk conductor of specified cross sectional area for all intents and purposes (at the frequencies being discussed here).
That said, is a solder connection better? OF COURSE? Is it a huge hassle? YES. Would I do a solder connection instead? Yes I would, unless it was time or cost prohibitive.