bluetti_official via eBay has 268Wh BLUETTI EB3A 600W Portable Power Station LiFePO4 Battery Solar Generator for $209 - 15% w/ code NEWBRAND15 = $177.65. Shipping is free.
Thanks Deal Hunter chaofun for sharing this deal
Note, must apply the listed promo code to receive discount price
Features:
600W AC inverter, 268Wh LiFePO4 battery pack, and 9 outlets
The built-in MPPT controller supports up to 200W of solar input
EB3A instantly provides backup power when the grid fails, protecting your desktop PC, file servers, and other sensitive devices from data loss or damage.
Includes BLUETTI EB3A portable power station, AC charging cable, user manual
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bluetti_official via eBay has 268Wh BLUETTI EB3A 600W Portable Power Station LiFePO4 Battery Solar Generator for $209 - 15% w/ code NEWBRAND15 = $177.65. Shipping is free.
Thanks Deal Hunter chaofun for sharing this deal
Note, must apply the listed promo code to receive discount price
Features:
600W AC inverter, 268Wh LiFePO4 battery pack, and 9 outlets
The built-in MPPT controller supports up to 200W of solar input
EB3A instantly provides backup power when the grid fails, protecting your desktop PC, file servers, and other sensitive devices from data loss or damage.
Includes BLUETTI EB3A portable power station, AC charging cable, user manual
My thought is they made a ton of these thinking they'd be massively popular, but people who are interested in this type of device are rather discerning and research things a good bit. This particular device (max watts, total watt hours) has a fairly narrow use-case when you really look into it. Many of us have other devices that accomplish similar things (tool batteries + inverters, power bricks, UPS) and/or would like something with a lot more power.
It's a cool device, but it is limited in capacity. Personally I've passed on it a few times, but I'm leaning heavily towards getting it at this price.
Also noticed this as well as bluetti_official only has 48 ratings, member since 2022 & has location listed as China.
Edit: taking a look at bluetti_us, they're store front looks a lot more legit on eBay but they also have China as the location and started up in March 2022
I bet one of them is counterfeit. Considering counterfeit goods is a multi-million dollar enterprise, the odds are in my favor haha 😂
I found this one for sale for $120 last week...I've only had one for a few days, but liked it enough to buy a 2nd. I'll be using them mainly with a portable fridge. Only gripe so far is that the DC input/charging port is 4mm instead of the much more common 5.5mm. Also a big fan of the form factor since it doesn't have the massive wasted space of a molded in handle. I have them paired with a 100w Big Blue solar panel set (hard/folding) and I got about 50% charge in 2.5-3 hours.
I bought this off Amazon over a month ago, but I still asked for another price match via partial refund today. They said they're processing it, and it should appear within five days. For those that already bought this, it might be worth asking.
I bought this off Amazon over a month ago, but I still asked for another price match via partial refund today. They said they're processing it, and it should appear within five days. For those that already bought this, it might be worth asking.
You asked Amazon to price match eBay's new price, and it's been more than a month? Amazon doesn't even pricematch itself within 30 days...
Why is it that every time I see a deal for this mini power station that it is always at a lower cost than previously…
The two units I received didn't function correctly. I wanted to keep this product but not when they don't work. One drained to zero for no reason and then bricked when I tried to update the firmware. The replacement unit from Amazon was not brand new and the ac outlets didn't work. Sigh. Stay away from this unit. I'm simply going to another company.
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a) Why open the unit and cut a hole when you can make a small USB-C to DC 8mm barrel adapter with that trigger board inline which you can also buy pre-made.
b) The input on the unit is 12-28V so 15V or 20V should be fine. Higher voltage lets you use lower amps and is more efficient to charge the 22.4V internal battery.
c) Have you actually tried this with the modules you linked? The DC input can draw up to 8.5A and USB-C PD can only do 3A or 5A max depending on charger and cable. The different trigger modules I have used before do not limit current and if I connect a load that tries to draw more than 5A my USB chargers shutoff automatically with overcurrent protection.
Thanks for your comments & suggestions. I'm just a hobbyist and appreciate guidance.
Working backward,
The goal was to charge using USB-C. which is limited to 5A & 20V which the module claims to meet. I have not used the module before. I don't have a high-power USB charger. I don't have any idea about the behavior if more than 5A is requested. I'm surprised that the usual solution is to supply zeroA. I thought that was the whole point of having the load communicate with the supply. If I were to connect a 1A 12V wall transformer to the 12-24V input, would the transformer shut off? Wouldn't that just result in slow charging?
Absolutely. Higher voltage multiples times the current, rapidly increasing power.I was hesitant because of my ignorance regarding the solar panel use of that same input.
As for putting the electronics inside the case...your suggestion of an external active adapter is much simpler but comes with decreased robustness and the certainty that when you really need it, the adapter will be missing. The boards are cheap and I assume the connectors are as well, so the best thing would be to make it and try it before opening the case. If I read your statement correctly that you can buy an active USB-C to 8mm adapter premade, that would seem to be the way to go, depending on the price.
Short answer is a crazy yes.
Why?
This unit has pass through charging but why even do what you're thinking?
You already have all this included with the motor home set up.
Now, put it outside and power some speakers or lights? Oh yeah.
I'm trying to find a way to maximize the usefulness of my solar panel while minimizing the effort. I just have a single 100W panel and haven't used it. There are effort and knowledge bars, Infrastructure to build and not much battery-charging to gain.
I think it might be a good solution to have the battery and panel positioned together at a distance from camp so I don't need to uncoil and protect and recoil a long, expensive, lossy cable.
We try to park the MH in amongst trees, so I will have to set up the panel at a distance or move it frequently to find light. Car camping, I had this great idea to use solar path lights to illuminate the tents. They worked great - just the perfect dim light to mark tent-pegs or tripping-stones while we were active in the evening. then into the tents with us -but it was a pain to keep the little pucks in the sun for more than 5 minutes.
Yes, the best use would be for light outdoor use, but it would be great if I could transition it to the indoor lights and the water-pump as well. If it seems to not be a pain, I could get another panel. And another, then a bigger battery (and cables)
I'm probably reinventing the wheel. Surely I'm not the first person on this path.
Thanks for your comments & suggestions. I'm just a hobbyist and appreciate guidance.
Working backward,
The goal was to charge using USB-C. which is limited to 5A & 20V which the module claims to meet. I have not used the module before. I don't have a high-power USB charger. I don't have any idea about the behavior if more than 5A is requested. I'm surprised that the usual solution is to supply zeroA. I thought that was the whole point of having the load communicate with the supply. If I were to connect a 1A 12V wall transformer to the 12-24V input, would the transformer shut off? Wouldn't that just result in slow charging?
Absolutely. Higher voltage multiples times the current, rapidly increasing power.I was hesitant because of my ignorance regarding the solar panel use of that same input.
As for putting the electronics inside the case...your suggestion of an external active adapter is much simpler but comes with decreased robustness and the certainty that when you really need it, the adapter will be missing. The boards are cheap and I assume the connectors are as well, so the best thing would be to make it and try it before opening the case. If I read your statement correctly that you can buy an active USB-C to 8mm adapter premade, that would seem to be the way to go, depending on the price.
Thanks again for your useful comments.
What any given power supply does depends on how it's designed. V = IR, what does your 12V 1A transformer do when positive and negative are shorted? Does it shut off? Does it adjust voltage to near zero and still send 1A across the short to account for the very low resistance of a short? The USB PD chargers I have maintain voltage and shutoff for protection rather than drop voltage or increase internal resistance.
The pre-made cables are on Amazon. I have no idea if they have a current-limiting resistor or any other regulation built in. I think some of the reviews complain about it though.
Putting this box in the sun isn't the greatest idea. I have a 20 foot cord running off mine to keep the panel in the sun and the box out of the sun. Trickle charging isn't worth baking it.
I'm just saying that something labeled "Portable" and "Solar Generator" being basically an indoor item because it's fragile electrics seems like a marketing fail.
What length cord can be used before you look at power loss?
Can I keep one of these outdoors under my gazebo? I need power in my gazebo detached from property. I required I can try to keep it near the ceiling to save it from rain water. I May even install a solar panel to charge it.
Gr8 price. I bought this at $209 or so about a month ago. I also bought the eb55 and the eb70s. Other than the capacity, I like this one more for all the small things around the house that need charging, such as laptops and cellphones. This one is also easier to charge as the charging brick is built inside so you just use the cord. I have a large portable evaporative cooler that runs on 110v. I was working on my prius in 100+ degree weather without a garage. I could either run a long extension and leave he front door cracked for flies to get in, or plug it into the power stations. At low speed, it draws 250w, so I get around 45 mins or so with this power station. I swapped them out and charge up.
Only 14 post, you're fake
I got one of these at the $210 price. There customer service sucks, you will never be able to contact them. They might email you back after a week.
I was only able to charge two iphones with the battery and it was already used 60%…worthless
Last edited by slickska August 19, 2022 at 06:44 AM.
A gas generator will also consume fuel even if you don't draw any power. You can set the ECO mode on this unit to turn itself off after 1 hour with low/no draw.
Useless if I need a 10-30 wattt draw all the time, it will drain the battery before the sun comes up.
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My thought is they made a ton of these thinking they'd be massively popular, but people who are interested in this type of device are rather discerning and research things a good bit. This particular device (max watts, total watt hours) has a fairly narrow use-case when you really look into it.
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It's a cool device, but it is limited in capacity. Personally I've passed on it a few times, but I'm leaning heavily towards getting it at this price.
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Edit: taking a look at bluetti_us, they're store front looks a lot more legit on eBay but they also have China as the location and started up in March 2022
https://smile.amazon.co
The two units I received didn't function correctly. I wanted to keep this product but not when they don't work. One drained to zero for no reason and then bricked when I tried to update the firmware. The replacement unit from Amazon was not brand new and the ac outlets didn't work. Sigh. Stay away from this unit. I'm simply going to another company.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
b) The input on the unit is 12-28V so 15V or 20V should be fine. Higher voltage lets you use lower amps and is more efficient to charge the 22.4V internal battery.
c) Have you actually tried this with the modules you linked? The DC input can draw up to 8.5A and USB-C PD can only do 3A or 5A max depending on charger and cable. The different trigger modules I have used before do not limit current and if I connect a load that tries to draw more than 5A my USB chargers shutoff automatically with overcurrent protection.
Working backward,
The goal was to charge using USB-C. which is limited to 5A & 20V which the module claims to meet. I have not used the module before. I don't have a high-power USB charger. I don't have any idea about the behavior if more than 5A is requested. I'm surprised that the usual solution is to supply zeroA. I thought that was the whole point of having the load communicate with the supply. If I were to connect a 1A 12V wall transformer to the 12-24V input, would the transformer shut off? Wouldn't that just result in slow charging?
Absolutely. Higher voltage multiples times the current, rapidly increasing power.I was hesitant because of my ignorance regarding the solar panel use of that same input.
As for putting the electronics inside the case...your suggestion of an external active adapter is much simpler but comes with decreased robustness and the certainty that when you really need it, the adapter will be missing. The boards are cheap and I assume the connectors are as well, so the best thing would be to make it and try it before opening the case. If I read your statement correctly that you can buy an active USB-C to 8mm adapter premade, that would seem to be the way to go, depending on the price.
Thanks again for your useful comments.
Why?
This unit has pass through charging but why even do what you're thinking?
You already have all this included with the motor home set up.
Now, put it outside and power some speakers or lights? Oh yeah.
I think it might be a good solution to have the battery and panel positioned together at a distance from camp so I don't need to uncoil and protect and recoil a long, expensive, lossy cable.
We try to park the MH in amongst trees, so I will have to set up the panel at a distance or move it frequently to find light. Car camping, I had this great idea to use solar path lights to illuminate the tents. They worked great - just the perfect dim light to mark tent-pegs or tripping-stones while we were active in the evening. then into the tents with us -but it was a pain to keep the little pucks in the sun for more than 5 minutes.
Yes, the best use would be for light outdoor use, but it would be great if I could transition it to the indoor lights and the water-pump as well. If it seems to not be a pain, I could get another panel. And another, then a bigger battery (and cables)
I'm probably reinventing the wheel. Surely I'm not the first person on this path.
Working backward,
The goal was to charge using USB-C. which is limited to 5A & 20V which the module claims to meet. I have not used the module before. I don't have a high-power USB charger. I don't have any idea about the behavior if more than 5A is requested. I'm surprised that the usual solution is to supply zeroA. I thought that was the whole point of having the load communicate with the supply. If I were to connect a 1A 12V wall transformer to the 12-24V input, would the transformer shut off? Wouldn't that just result in slow charging?
Absolutely. Higher voltage multiples times the current, rapidly increasing power.I was hesitant because of my ignorance regarding the solar panel use of that same input.
As for putting the electronics inside the case...your suggestion of an external active adapter is much simpler but comes with decreased robustness and the certainty that when you really need it, the adapter will be missing. The boards are cheap and I assume the connectors are as well, so the best thing would be to make it and try it before opening the case. If I read your statement correctly that you can buy an active USB-C to 8mm adapter premade, that would seem to be the way to go, depending on the price.
Thanks again for your useful comments.
What any given power supply does depends on how it's designed. V = IR, what does your 12V 1A transformer do when positive and negative are shorted? Does it shut off? Does it adjust voltage to near zero and still send 1A across the short to account for the very low resistance of a short? The USB PD chargers I have maintain voltage and shutoff for protection rather than drop voltage or increase internal resistance.
The pre-made cables are on Amazon. I have no idea if they have a current-limiting resistor or any other regulation built in. I think some of the reviews complain about it though.
https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-Fe...0832LT6GM/
I'm just saying that something labeled "Portable" and "Solar Generator" being basically an indoor item because it's fragile electrics seems like a marketing fail.
What length cord can be used before you look at power loss?
But I am not sure if this rated for outdoors.
I got one of these at the $210 price. There customer service sucks, you will never be able to contact them. They might email you back after a week.
I was only able to charge two iphones with the battery and it was already used 60%…worthless
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