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You want a surge protector with a clamping voltage of 400V or less. The one in OP is rated at 500V. The lower the clamping voltage the better, with the best outlet surge protectors rated for 330V clamping. Monoprice sells a few rated for 330V and UL listed for just a few bucks more. The clamping voltage is the voltage that it will let through before it trips. If you live in the US, your outlets are 120V. 500V is a lot more voltage than your appliances are designed for. At that voltage, a surge is doing damage to your appliance, whether it kills it instantly or not. The Joules rating is the amount of energy the protector can absorb before it fails and no longer offers protection, and is cumulative. They eventually fail after they've absorbed close the rated Joules of surges over the life of the protector. A whole home surge protector is the best option, and are relatively cheap ($90 for a type 2 Eaton), but should be installed by an electrician if you don't have the requisite electrical experience, as making a mistake in your breaker box could kill you. If you don't know someone with electrical knowledge that could help you out, an electrician's labor cost would be around $100-$200. That's quite a bit more than an outlet surge protector, but would offer much more protection for your whole home, and would be a much better investment if you own your home. I know this is much more information than you asked for. Just spreading the word on the misleading marketing tactics of many of these manufacturers, and the other options for those who read this. Using these cheap, low protection surge protectors could be much more expensive in the long run.
I've used this for a couple years now. Powers my main gaming PC, couple monitors, speakers and another mini PC for work. Bought it for it's small size, the secure screw-in and the swiveling outlets. Would buy it again.
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from mrjp
:
Can I use this for my refrigerator as surge protector?
You want a surge protector with a clamping voltage of 400V or less. The one in OP is rated at 500V. The lower the clamping voltage the better, with the best outlet surge protectors rated for 330V clamping. Monoprice sells a few rated for 330V and UL listed for just a few bucks more. The clamping voltage is the voltage that it will let through before it trips. If you live in the US, your outlets are 120V. 500V is a lot more voltage than your appliances are designed for. At that voltage, a surge is doing damage to your appliance, whether it kills it instantly or not. The Joules rating is the amount of energy the protector can absorb before it fails and no longer offers protection, and is cumulative. They eventually fail after they've absorbed close the rated Joules of surges over the life of the protector. A whole home surge protector is the best option, and are relatively cheap ($90 for a type 2 Eaton), but should be installed by an electrician if you don't have the requisite electrical experience, as making a mistake in your breaker box could kill you. If you don't know someone with electrical knowledge that could help you out, an electrician's labor cost would be around $100-$200. That's quite a bit more than an outlet surge protector, but would offer much more protection for your whole home, and would be a much better investment if you own your home. I know this is much more information than you asked for. Just spreading the word on the misleading marketing tactics of many of these manufacturers, and the other options for those who read this. Using these cheap, low protection surge protectors could be much more expensive in the long run.
Last edited by CoreyR2384 September 29, 2022 at 10:03 PM.
You want a surge protector with a clamping voltage of 400V or less. The one in OP is rated at 500V. The lower the clamping voltage the better, with the best outlet surge protectors rated for 330V clamping. Monoprice sells a few rated for 330V and UL listed for just a few bucks more. The clamping voltage is the voltage that it will let through before it trips. If you live in the US, your outlets are 120V. 500V is a lot more voltage than your appliances are designed for. At that voltage, a surge is doing damage to your appliance, whether it kills it instantly or not. The Joules rating is the amount of energy the protector can absorb before it fails and no longer offers protection, and is cumulative. They eventually fail after they've absorbed close the rated Joules of surges over the life of the protector. A whole home surge protector is the best option, and are relatively cheap ($90 for a type 2 Eaton), but should be installed by an electrician if you don't have the requisite electrical experience, as making a mistake in your breaker box could kill you. If you don't know someone with electrical knowledge that could help you out, an electrician's labor cost would be around $100-$200. That's quite a bit more than an outlet surge protector, but would offer much more protection for your whole home, and would be a much better investment if you own your home. I know this is much more information than you asked for. Just spreading the word on the misleading marketing tactics of many of these manufacturers, and the other options for those who read this. Using these cheap, low protection surge protectors could be much more expensive in the long run.
Thank you for taking the time to provide that information. It is replies/input like yours that make this site valuable and sifting through the nonsense/noncontributory comments worthwhile.
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This type crap always claims some sort of cert UL Listed / Certified / CE ...whatever
Most cant be verified, and even if you find one ...said crap is unlikely to be built as submitted
You want a surge protector with a clamping voltage of 400V or less. The one in OP is rated at 500V. The lower the clamping voltage the better, with the best outlet surge protectors rated for 330V clamping. Monoprice sells a few rated for 330V and UL listed for just a few bucks more. The clamping voltage is the voltage that it will let through before it trips. If you live in the US, your outlets are 120V. 500V is a lot more voltage than your appliances are designed for. At that voltage, a surge is doing damage to your appliance, whether it kills it instantly or not. The Joules rating is the amount of energy the protector can absorb before it fails and no longer offers protection, and is cumulative. They eventually fail after they've absorbed close the rated Joules of surges over the life of the protector. A whole home surge protector is the best option, and are relatively cheap ($90 for a type 2 Eaton), but should be installed by an electrician if you don't have the requisite electrical experience, as making a mistake in your breaker box could kill you. If you don't know someone with electrical knowledge that could help you out, an electrician's labor cost would be around $100-$200. That's quite a bit more than an outlet surge protector, but would offer much more protection for your whole home, and would be a much better investment if you own your home. I know this is much more information than you asked for. Just spreading the word on the misleading marketing tactics of many of these manufacturers, and the other options for those who read this. Using these cheap, low protection surge protectors could be much more expensive in the long run.
Thank you for taking the time to provide that information. It is replies/input like yours that make this site valuable and sifting through the nonsense/noncontributory comments worthwhile.
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are you saying that because the pictures don't show it? or because you own or owned one? Thanks
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Pretty unbelievable in 2022.
Plugs built in, matches great
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank CoreyR2384
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Pretty unbelievable in 2022.
Most cant be verified, and even if you find one ...said crap is unlikely to be built as submitted
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