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Umm... That is very dangerous and illegal in most (if not all) US states. Extension cords are designed for temporary use. I have been to enough house fires to have seen the unfortunate outcome. (I'm a volunteer firefighter.)
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Quote
from GeoffreyK24
:
Needing the neutral is what kills it for me. I tried to put a smart switch in the kitchen a couple of years ago and found out the hard way that our rental house was old enough that they didn't have the setup I needed (my fault for not checking).
My workaround was to:
- buy 1' extension cord
- cut it in half
- disconnect the power wire from the ceiling fixture in the kitchen
- splice the power into the female half of the extension cord and sealed the connections which created a standard plug
- splice the male end to the wires of the light fixture and sealed the connections
- add a smart plug to the power socket I had made and plugged in the light fixture to the smart plug.
- put the wires and plug into the fixture
It sounds overly complicated (and maybe it is) but it was actually an extremely simple hack that is very easily undone later. The only thing it cannot do is dim the light fixture but I have never had the need to since almost every bulb in my house is a smart bulb. If I ever need to adjust lighting, I just don't use that one fixture. I just leave the light switch turned on to meet the smart switch stay on (just like any other outlet) and it is now a smart light. I haven't had any issues with it in the last few years of using a $5 smart plug other than my 5 year old turning the light switch off every now and again because she thinks it is funny lol.
and yes, I know there are smart devices that would have allowed me to direct wire the power and fixture without the need for all the extension cord hack job. I already had all that stuff on hand and didn't feel like waiting.
Umm... That is very dangerous and illegal in most (if not all) US states. Extension cords are designed for temporary use. I have been to enough house fires to have seen the unfortunate outcome. (I'm a volunteer firefighter.)
Needing the neutral is what kills it for me. I tried to put a smart switch in the kitchen a couple of years ago and found out the hard way that our rental house was old enough that they didn't have the setup I needed (my fault for not checking).
My workaround was to:
- buy 1' extension cord
- cut it in half
- disconnect the power wire from the ceiling fixture in the kitchen
- splice the power into the female half of the extension cord and sealed the connections which created a standard plug
- splice the male end to the wires of the light fixture and sealed the connections
- add a smart plug to the power socket I had made and plugged in the light fixture to the smart plug.
- put the wires and plug into the fixture
It sounds overly complicated (and maybe it is) but it was actually an extremely simple hack that is very easily undone later. The only thing it cannot do is dim the light fixture but I have never had the need to since almost every bulb in my house is a smart bulb. If I ever need to adjust lighting, I just don't use that one fixture. I just leave the light switch turned on to meet the smart switch stay on (just like any other outlet) and it is now a smart light. I haven't had any issues with it in the last few years of using a $5 smart plug other than my 5 year old turning the light switch off every now and again because she thinks it is funny lol.
and yes, I know there are smart devices that would have allowed me to direct wire the power and fixture without the need for all the extension cord hack job. I already had all that stuff on hand and didn't feel like waiting.
Okay, I've never installed a smart switch, but have installed lots of regular switches and electrical outlets. But I don't get the wire configuration here. They want a black (hot), white (neutral), and a green (ground). Okay, no prob.
But then they add a yellow and a red. Wtf are those. They say traveler and load, but then a warning NOT to connect a traveler line.
I'm sure those yellow and red don't exist in my switch box. Is that something that comes with a smart light fixture?? So will this control just regular ceiling lights?
I'm probably too confused to buy this I think.
Edit- okay, I think this just means to connect the red line to the wire that goes to the lamp. In my house I believe those wires are white as well. Does that sound right? Then just ignore the yellow?
Last edited by rmplatt September 30, 2022 at 02:10 PM.
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Quote
from GeoffreyK24
:
Needing the neutral is what kills it for me. I tried to put a smart switch in the kitchen a couple of years ago and found out the hard way that our rental house was old enough that they didn't have the setup I needed (my fault for not checking).
My workaround was to:
- buy 1' extension cord
- cut it in half
- disconnect the power wire from the ceiling fixture in the kitchen
- splice the power into the female half of the extension cord and sealed the connections which created a standard plug
- splice the male end to the wires of the light fixture and sealed the connections
- add a smart plug to the power socket I had made and plugged in the light fixture to the smart plug.
- put the wires and plug into the fixture
It sounds overly complicated (and maybe it is) but it was actually an extremely simple hack that is very easily undone later. The only thing it cannot do is dim the light fixture but I have never had the need to since almost every bulb in my house is a smart bulb. If I ever need to adjust lighting, I just don't use that one fixture. I just leave the light switch turned on to meet the smart switch stay on (just like any other outlet) and it is now a smart light. I haven't had any issues with it in the last few years of using a $5 smart plug other than my 5 year old turning the light switch off every now and again because she thinks it is funny lol.
and yes, I know there are smart devices that would have allowed me to direct wire the power and fixture without the need for all the extension cord hack job. I already had all that stuff on hand and didn't feel like waiting.
Definitely don't do this lmao
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Okay, I've never installed a smart switch, but have installed lots of regular switches and electrical outlets. But I don't get the wire configuration here. They want a black (hot), white (neutral), and a green (ground). Okay, no prob.
But then they add a yellow and a red. Wtf are those. They say traveler and load, but then a warning NOT to connect a traveler line.
I'm sure those yellow and red don't exist in my switch box. Is that something that comes with a smart light fixture?? So will this control just regular ceiling lights?
I'm probably too confused to buy this I think.
Edit- okay, I think this just means to connect the red line to the wire that goes to the lamp. In my house I believe those wires are white as well. Does that sound right? Then just ignore the yellow?
Correct, ignore the yellow. Black (hot or line), white (neutral), bare (ground), and then whatever color your load is, which will be the switched power to your light. In my house they are brown. When you take your existing switch out you should be able to tell which one is the load pretty easily. Traveler wires (the yellow in reference) are for 3 way switches which this doesn't support. Unfortunate they didn't remove it so it adds some confusion.
Edit: To be a little more clear, there won't be a yellow anything, there will just be a terminal for the unsupported traveler wire. Don't use it.
Last edited by PhilthyFool September 30, 2022 at 02:36 PM.
I would not recommend these product for which the company can belly up and you lose everything. Stick to TP link Kasa which is on sale right now on Amazon. Buy the 3 packs.
I would not recommend these product for which the company can belly up and you lose everything. Stick to TP link Kasa which is on sale right now on Amazon. Buy the 3 packs.
TBH, this is just so much cheaper than a regular manual dimmer switch, which is what I need anyway. As long as it continues to work manually, I'm good. The wireless was just going to be a bonus.
Plus monoprice has been around for 20 years, and has a pretty good warranty service.
I would not recommend these product for which the company can belly up and you lose everything. Stick to TP link Kasa which is on sale right now on Amazon. Buy the 3 packs.
LOL... Monoprice? They'll go out of business when people stop needing cables.
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Okay, can anyone advise. In my switch box, I have two switches for two banks of ceiling led high hat lights.
The current on/off switch has just a red and a black attached to the switch, a neutral wired TOGETHER but not to the switch and then a ground to the box.
Why are the neutrals tied together for the two lights, and how do I know what's what when I try to rewire it?
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank AnynameIwant
My workaround was to:
- buy 1' extension cord
- cut it in half
- disconnect the power wire from the ceiling fixture in the kitchen
- splice the power into the female half of the extension cord and sealed the connections which created a standard plug
- splice the male end to the wires of the light fixture and sealed the connections
- add a smart plug to the power socket I had made and plugged in the light fixture to the smart plug.
- put the wires and plug into the fixture
It sounds overly complicated (and maybe it is) but it was actually an extremely simple hack that is very easily undone later. The only thing it cannot do is dim the light fixture but I have never had the need to since almost every bulb in my house is a smart bulb. If I ever need to adjust lighting, I just don't use that one fixture. I just leave the light switch turned on to meet the smart switch stay on (just like any other outlet) and it is now a smart light. I haven't had any issues with it in the last few years of using a $5 smart plug other than my 5 year old turning the light switch off every now and again because she thinks it is funny lol.
and yes, I know there are smart devices that would have allowed me to direct wire the power and fixture without the need for all the extension cord hack job. I already had all that stuff on hand and didn't feel like waiting.
My workaround was to:
- buy 1' extension cord
- cut it in half
- disconnect the power wire from the ceiling fixture in the kitchen
- splice the power into the female half of the extension cord and sealed the connections which created a standard plug
- splice the male end to the wires of the light fixture and sealed the connections
- add a smart plug to the power socket I had made and plugged in the light fixture to the smart plug.
- put the wires and plug into the fixture
It sounds overly complicated (and maybe it is) but it was actually an extremely simple hack that is very easily undone later. The only thing it cannot do is dim the light fixture but I have never had the need to since almost every bulb in my house is a smart bulb. If I ever need to adjust lighting, I just don't use that one fixture. I just leave the light switch turned on to meet the smart switch stay on (just like any other outlet) and it is now a smart light. I haven't had any issues with it in the last few years of using a $5 smart plug other than my 5 year old turning the light switch off every now and again because she thinks it is funny lol.
and yes, I know there are smart devices that would have allowed me to direct wire the power and fixture without the need for all the extension cord hack job. I already had all that stuff on hand and didn't feel like waiting.
But then they add a yellow and a red. Wtf are those. They say traveler and load, but then a warning NOT to connect a traveler line.
I'm sure those yellow and red don't exist in my switch box. Is that something that comes with a smart light fixture?? So will this control just regular ceiling lights?
I'm probably too confused to buy this I think.
Edit- okay, I think this just means to connect the red line to the wire that goes to the lamp. In my house I believe those wires are white as well. Does that sound right? Then just ignore the yellow?
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank btrig
My workaround was to:
- buy 1' extension cord
- cut it in half
- disconnect the power wire from the ceiling fixture in the kitchen
- splice the power into the female half of the extension cord and sealed the connections which created a standard plug
- splice the male end to the wires of the light fixture and sealed the connections
- add a smart plug to the power socket I had made and plugged in the light fixture to the smart plug.
- put the wires and plug into the fixture
It sounds overly complicated (and maybe it is) but it was actually an extremely simple hack that is very easily undone later. The only thing it cannot do is dim the light fixture but I have never had the need to since almost every bulb in my house is a smart bulb. If I ever need to adjust lighting, I just don't use that one fixture. I just leave the light switch turned on to meet the smart switch stay on (just like any other outlet) and it is now a smart light. I haven't had any issues with it in the last few years of using a $5 smart plug other than my 5 year old turning the light switch off every now and again because she thinks it is funny lol.
and yes, I know there are smart devices that would have allowed me to direct wire the power and fixture without the need for all the extension cord hack job. I already had all that stuff on hand and didn't feel like waiting.
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But then they add a yellow and a red. Wtf are those. They say traveler and load, but then a warning NOT to connect a traveler line.
I'm sure those yellow and red don't exist in my switch box. Is that something that comes with a smart light fixture?? So will this control just regular ceiling lights?
I'm probably too confused to buy this I think.
Edit- okay, I think this just means to connect the red line to the wire that goes to the lamp. In my house I believe those wires are white as well. Does that sound right? Then just ignore the yellow?
Edit: To be a little more clear, there won't be a yellow anything, there will just be a terminal for the unsupported traveler wire. Don't use it.
Plus monoprice has been around for 20 years, and has a pretty good warranty service.
If no, then nogo for me. Really sick of install/use one different app for every "smart device".
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The current on/off switch has just a red and a black attached to the switch, a neutral wired TOGETHER but not to the switch and then a ground to the box.
Why are the neutrals tied together for the two lights, and how do I know what's what when I try to rewire it?
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