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expired Posted by iconian | Staff • Jan 16, 2023
expired Posted by iconian | Staff • Jan 16, 2023

Bosch RA1181 Benchtop Router Table $169 + Free s/h

$169

$189

10% off
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$169 + Free s/h w/ code Bosch
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Pro
Jan 16, 2023
2,287 Posts
Joined May 2020
Jan 16, 2023
IncompletePerfect
Pro
Jan 16, 2023
2,287 Posts
Good price, but I'm going to put the odds on this coming with a warped top at 99%. 😆 🤣
Jan 16, 2023
254 Posts
Joined Sep 2015
Jan 16, 2023
59honeyburst
Jan 16, 2023
254 Posts
Code worked for the Bosch router with plunge base as well.
Jan 16, 2023
85 Posts
Joined May 2016
Jan 16, 2023
gkankor
Jan 16, 2023
85 Posts
Making mounting plate flush with the table top is a chore.
Jan 16, 2023
54 Posts
Joined Jan 2009
Jan 16, 2023
EnsuingRequiem
Jan 16, 2023
54 Posts
Quote from IncompletePerfect :
Good price, but I'm going to put the odds on this coming with a warped top at 99%. 😆 🤣
This question assumes you know a few things about routers:

If you already have a good Bosch corded router (I think I have the 1617EVSPK), what's the best way/setup for being able to swap between tabletop, handheld and plunge? And then what's the most cost effective while providing good results?
Pro
Jan 16, 2023
2,287 Posts
Joined May 2020
Jan 16, 2023
IncompletePerfect
Pro
Jan 16, 2023
2,287 Posts

Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank IncompletePerfect

Quote from gkankor :
Making mounting plate flush with the table top is a chore.
It's actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. But, a lot of people have issues because they didn't check to see if the entire cast aluminum tabletop is flat.

I have one of their original aluminum router tables (the aluminum top version that preceded the 1181) and it's lasted for what feels like a lifetime.

However, the newer RA1181 has a huge quality control issue with the table tops being warped, and definitely not flat. And almost every one of the 1181's has this problem.

So when you go to setup the insert plate, it us a nightmare trying to get it level and flush with the table.

So, check yours to see if it's flat. Lol.
2
Pro
Jan 16, 2023
2,287 Posts
Joined May 2020
Jan 16, 2023
IncompletePerfect
Pro
Jan 16, 2023
2,287 Posts
Quote from EnsuingRequiem :
This question assumes you know a few things about routers:

If you already have a good Bosch corded router (I think I have the 1617EVSPK), what's the best way/setup for being able to swap between tabletop, handheld and plunge? And then what's the most cost effective while providing good results?
Personally, I use a lot of routers, so I just keep the ones that are mounted to a table or other tools, to their tools. And I use separate routers for hand routing. Usually palm routers.



However, a lot of people keep one router if they're not insane, like I am. Lol.

So, if sticking with one router, the first thing you'll want to do is buy (or preferably make) a good router lift.

(From here on out, it gets crazy... hang on tight. )

The Bosch RA1161 standard base that comes with the EVSPK is the same as their RA1165 (Minus the wood handles and baseplate.) And Both are equally poor quality in that they are a pain to adjust, even with two hands.

But, if you're not using it much, or you like to learn the hard way (Lawwwd knows I do lmao), then you can buy a 2nd standard base, and keep the original mounted under the table, and manually switch them out... ughhh it sucks.

So at this point, I'd tell you to buy a palm router for handheld (the Makita, or Bosch are the best choices. I prefer the makita as it has a better plunge base you can buy for around $70 sometimes.) Then use the palm router for handheld stuff.

(If new to woodworking, don't bother reading onwards. It could be (even more) confusing.)


And if you will be making a router sled in the future, you have your plunge base ready to go.

Now, you can also mount the plunge base under the router table, and that's an entirely different can of worms. But, if you do take the steps to do that, now, your plunge base with router has a wider base with the insert plate attached... which means you can take our the insert plate, with plunge base, and router attached, and use it for more stable plunge routing, ORRR, you can use the plunge router with insert plate to mount to a router planer sled.


All in all, it's not that cut and dry to answer. If you had multiple routers, it's really easy to do. So now you will want to look into making (or buying) a lift, and a separate Palm/Trim router. It makes life sooo much easier.

Edit: You came for a Router deal, and left with a Router Novella lol. tlThats a slick deal! 🤣 🤣 🤣
Jan 16, 2023
54 Posts
Joined Jan 2009
Jan 16, 2023
EnsuingRequiem
Jan 16, 2023
54 Posts
Quote from IncompletePerfect :
Personally, I use a lot of routers, so I just keep the ones that are mounted to a table or other tools, to their tools. And I use separate routers for hand routing. Usually palm routers.



However, a lot of people keep one router if they're not insane, like I am. Lol.

So, if sticking with one router, the first thing you'll want to do is buy (or preferably make) a good router lift.

(From here on out, it gets crazy... hang on tight. )

The Bosch RA1161 standard base that comes with the EVSPK is the same as their RA1165 (Minus the wood handles and baseplate.) And Both are equally poor quality in that they are a pain to adjust, even with two hands.

But, if you're not using it much, or you like to learn the hard way (Lawwwd knows I do lmao), then you can buy a 2nd standard base, and keep the original mounted under the table, and manually switch them out... ughhh it sucks.

So at this point, I'd tell you to buy a palm router for handheld (the Makita, or Bosch are the best choices. I prefer the makita as it has a better plunge base you can buy for around $70 sometimes.) Then use the palm router for handheld stuff.

(If new to woodworking, don't bother reading onwards. It could be (even more) confusing.)


And if you will be making a router sled in the future, you have your plunge base ready to go.

Now, you can also mount the plunge base under the router table, and that's an entirely different can of worms. But, if you do take the steps to do that, now, your plunge base with router has a wider base with the insert plate attached... which means you can take our the insert plate, with plunge base, and router attached, and use it for more stable plunge routing, ORRR, you can use the plunge router with insert plate to mount to a router planer sled.


All in all, it's not that cut and dry to answer. If you had multiple routers, it's really easy to do. So now you will want to look into making (or buying) a lift, and a separate Palm/Trim router. It makes life sooo much easier.

Edit: You came for a Router deal, and left with a Router Novella lol. tlThats a slick deal! 🤣 🤣 🤣
I had a feeling that the long of the short would be something along the lines of "mount the beefy router and get a more handheld one".

I'm new to woodworking in the sense that I've done little of it, but I'm familiar enough with most of what you said. I'm working with limited space, so trying to be efficient with it. I haven't looked at Makita (I have no brand loyalty for corded, though). Is the Bosch one the Colt? Luckily I have Menard's, HD and Lowe's all close by, so if any of those carry it, I can get my hands on it to see how I like the UX.

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Jan 16, 2023
243 Posts
Joined Dec 2020
Jan 16, 2023
JeffersonStreet
Jan 16, 2023
243 Posts
Quote from IncompletePerfect :
Personally, I use a lot of routers, so I just keep the ones that are mounted to a table or other tools, to their tools. And I use separate routers for hand routing. Usually palm routers.



However, a lot of people keep one router if they're not insane, like I am. Lol.

So, if sticking with one router, the first thing you'll want to do is buy (or preferably make) a good router lift.

(From here on out, it gets crazy... hang on tight. )

The Bosch RA1161 standard base that comes with the EVSPK is the same as their RA1165 (Minus the wood handles and baseplate.) And Both are equally poor quality in that they are a pain to adjust, even with two hands.

But, if you're not using it much, or you like to learn the hard way (Lawwwd knows I do lmao), then you can buy a 2nd standard base, and keep the original mounted under the table, and manually switch them out... ughhh it sucks.

So at this point, I'd tell you to buy a palm router for handheld (the Makita, or Bosch are the best choices. I prefer the makita as it has a better plunge base you can buy for around $70 sometimes.) Then use the palm router for handheld stuff.

(If new to woodworking, don't bother reading onwards. It could be (even more) confusing.)


And if you will be making a router sled in the future, you have your plunge base ready to go.

Now, you can also mount the plunge base under the router table, and that's an entirely different can of worms. But, if you do take the steps to do that, now, your plunge base with router has a wider base with the insert plate attached... which means you can take our the insert plate, with plunge base, and router attached, and use it for more stable plunge routing, ORRR, you can use the plunge router with insert plate to mount to a router planer sled.


All in all, it's not that cut and dry to answer. If you had multiple routers, it's really easy to do. So now you will want to look into making (or buying) a lift, and a separate Palm/Trim router. It makes life sooo much easier.

Edit: You came for a Router deal, and left with a Router Novella lol. tlThats a slick deal! 🤣 🤣 🤣
I understood 10% of this and appreciated 100%!! Thank you so much for taking the time to share. Helps us 48 yr old newbies out a lot. Smilie
Jan 16, 2023
243 Posts
Joined Dec 2020
Jan 16, 2023
JeffersonStreet
Jan 16, 2023
243 Posts
Quote from IncompletePerfect :
It's actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. But, a lot of people have issues because they didn't check to see if the entire cast aluminum tabletop is flat.

I have one of their original aluminum router tables (the aluminum top version that preceded the 1181) and it's lasted for what feels like a lifetime.

However, the newer RA1181 has a huge quality control issue with the table tops being warped, and definitely not flat. And almost every one of the 1181's has this problem.

So when you go to setup the insert plate, it us a nightmare trying to get it level and flush with the table.

So, check yours to see if it's flat. Lol.
Genuine question: Since this ships from New Jersey, and I am in Oregon, the odds of me returning it are slim to none. This seems like a good buy at $169.00. Is it worth the risk of a warped top or would you recommend something else for a newbie? (I own the 1617EVSPK and the Milwaukee M18 cordless router but just starting out) THANKS SO MUCH! Smilie
Pro
Jan 16, 2023
2,287 Posts
Joined May 2020
Jan 16, 2023
IncompletePerfect
Pro
Jan 16, 2023
2,287 Posts
Quote from JeffersonStreet :
Genuine question: Since this ships from New Jersey, and I am in Oregon, the odds of me returning it are slim to none. This seems like a good buy at $169.00. Is it worth the risk of a warped top or would you recommend something else for a newbie? (I own the 1617EVSPK and the Milwaukee M18 cordless router but just starting out) THANKS SO MUCH! Smilie
I made most of my tables... if you're just starting out, a simple table build can really help temper your skills as you grow as a woodworker.

The best part, you can make them really easily using less than a sheet of plywood.

You can also fancy them up a bit as you deem fit.

It depends all on what tools you currently own, whether you have things like a table saw/track saw or a miter saw, etc.

I'd say wait to buy one. The Router table here for $169 could be a flop. But, it's better than the other Bosch router tables. Sadly, the only good part of this router table is the top.

So, what tools are you working with? (In time you could build a router table easily, with just a router and plywood.

And watch some videos on building a router table. Take ideas, and add them to your personal needs.

You can have just a table with a hole it, all the way to tilting tables with electronic depth adjustments lol. But it all depends on what tools you have and what you want from your table. Smilie
Jan 17, 2023
3,254 Posts
Joined Jul 2013
Jan 17, 2023
madmax718
Jan 17, 2023
3,254 Posts
Quote from EnsuingRequiem :
This question assumes you know a few things about routers:

If you already have a good Bosch corded router (I think I have the 1617EVSPK), what's the best way/setup for being able to swap between tabletop, handheld and plunge? And then what's the most cost effective while providing good results?
the router comes out, installs into your plunge or fixed base.
when the routers are on sale buy another.

my major annoyance is the time it takes to get everything aligned again. I enjoy woodworking as a hobby, but I also want to have results fast. so I have two 1617s, with one which permanently lives in this router top.

there are other routers, but for compatibility these are one of the best.
Last edited by madmax718 January 16, 2023 at 04:30 PM.
Jan 17, 2023
3,254 Posts
Joined Jul 2013
Jan 17, 2023
madmax718
Jan 17, 2023
3,254 Posts
Quote from IncompletePerfect :
It's actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. But, a lot of people have issues because they didn't check to see if the entire cast aluminum tabletop is flat.

I have one of their original aluminum router tables (the aluminum top version that preceded the 1181) and it's lasted for what feels like a lifetime.

However, the newer RA1181 has a huge quality control issue with the table tops being warped, and definitely not flat. And almost every one of the 1181's has this problem.

So when you go to setup the insert plate, it us a nightmare trying to get it level and flush with the table.

So, check yours to see if it's flat. Lol.
You mean the cabinet version ? I thought that was mdf... Unless you mean new production ra1181..
Jan 17, 2023
1,101 Posts
Joined Jun 2006
Jan 17, 2023
Deadwing
Jan 17, 2023
1,101 Posts
Quote from EnsuingRequiem :
This question assumes you know a few things about routers:

If you already have a good Bosch corded router (I think I have the 1617EVSPK), what's the best way/setup for being able to swap between tabletop, handheld and plunge? And then what's the most cost effective while providing good results?
Please don't encourage him.
1
Pro
Jan 17, 2023
2,287 Posts
Joined May 2020
Jan 17, 2023
IncompletePerfect
Pro
Jan 17, 2023
2,287 Posts
Quote from madmax718 :
You mean the cabinet version ? I thought that was mdf... Unless you mean new production ra1181..
No, not the MDF one's. It was the RA1180 that came with a metal stand.

When I bought the 1181 in 2018 or 2019 (like $150?) It was warped. I exchanged it, same issue. And it seems (well, up until July 2022) that it still had the issue.

A lot of people buy it, and don't realize it until you tell them, as for many its their first production router table, and they just assume it's flat.

If standing in front of the router table, it's often the back right, and front left ar warped. Like their cast process design didn't provide enough support. It's really bizarre. A lot of people brought it to Bosch's attention, but it seems that they've yet to fix the issue. They will send you a new top, but only once (they will say "As a one-time courtesy, we will send you a new top." But you have to send them your current one. And even then, I could be a warped one. And you'll be stuck with it, AND out on $20-$30 in shipping.

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Jan 17, 2023
50 Posts
Joined Jun 2016
Jan 17, 2023
ryan7979
Jan 17, 2023
50 Posts
Quote from gkankor :
Making mounting plate flush with the table top is a chore.
It took me 2 minutes to make it flush. Were you doing it blind?
1

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