expired Posted by am1288jk • Jun 12, 2023
Jun 12, 2023 8:06 AM
Item 1 of 1
expired Posted by am1288jk • Jun 12, 2023
Jun 12, 2023 8:06 AM
Canon Refurbished Lenses: RF 50mm f/1.8 STM $79, RF 100mm F2.8 L Macro IS USM
& More + Free S&H$799
$1,169
31% offCanon
Visit CanonGood Deal
Bad Deal
Save
Share
Top Comments
---------
Here's a nice DIY kit that'll last for many years, and it'll be a massive improvement over all but the "best" DSLRs. All on a very reasonable budget.
It'll be perfectly fine for stills, but a bit weak for video compared to many modern mirrorless bodies. If video is your primary goal, keep this in mind as you do your homework.
RP Body: $600
50mm/1.8: $80
RF 24-105 IS: $160
RF 100-400 IS: $380
Subtotal: ~$1220
but wait, there's more! subtract $60 savings from buying RP + RF 24-105 combo on the same order....
Total: $1160 (10% loyalty discount, if applicable - brings the total to $1044+tax)
-------
Other good lenses to possibly consider:
- EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM @ $499
(this is a great Macro --and portrait-- lens that's EF mount. You'll need an EF-to-RF adapter @ $100 to use it on the RP or any R-series mirrorless, but you can do so without any drawbacks).
- EF-M 15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM @ $49
(if you have an M-series body, this is a very competent & lightweight kit zoom at a bargain price. unfortunately, it's 100% not compatible on EF/EF-S DSLRs or R mirrorless bodies.)
- Canon EF 11-24mm F4L USM @ $1499
(a very strong performing ultra-wide angle lens with minimal distortion, about $500 cheaper than the current used rates. this isn't for everyone, but if you've been eyeballing it, I doubt you'll find it for cheaper. It's $200 cheaper than last Black Friday holiday season. It's a lens with few, if any, comparable versions from other manufacturers. As with all EF lenses, you'll need an adapter for R-series mirrorless.)
------
Other components to consider:
- neckstrap (highly personal choice, good brands are Peak Design, Domke, and Black Rapid. I'm not a fan of included neckstraps.)
- camera bag (again, highly personal. good brands are lowepro, ruggard, tamrac. various options include backpack, shoulder bag, sling bag, and holster bags, and hardshell cases like Pelican/Nanuk cases)
- extra batteries (i'd suggest getting 2x spares, as the RP can be a battery hog. get name-brand batteries only from a reputable vendor, like B&H Photo or Adorama.)
- memory card (v60, 128gb-256gb would be more than enough unless you're doing lots of video work, which isn't the RP's strong suit. Once again, beware of counterfeits from places like Amazon. Order from B&H or Adorama or directly from the manufacturer. I always suggest multiple smaller cards instead of one supermassive card -- spares in case of failure.)
- lens protection (i'm personally against UV/protection filters. even the best expensive B+W brand multicoated can cause nasty glares and reflections. I'd suggest getting a lens hood, and a third party branded one at that -- like vello. Canon's official lens hoods are ridiculously expensive.)
- tripod (once again, highly personal option. there's a lot of choices out there with a plethora of options. consider buying used. Bogen/Manfrotto makes very respectable products, for the most part. keep in mind, everyone makes pro-tier and budget-tier hardware.)
The R6 Mark I at $1299 is a smoking hot deal on a really good camera. It's $1000 less than a year ago. https://www.usa.canon.c
132 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
But yes, the new denoise in Lightroom Classic destroys the denoising in older Lightroom Classic.
The next part is the autofocus. Now, the A7R3 can be fantastic. But it can be finicky in a lot of scenarios. If you have a group of people together and you need to switch AF from person to person, eye to eye, on the R6 it's very easy. You just tap the joystick to switch to a different eye. Or you can tap the screen on the person you want to focus on. Or you can use the touch and drag to switch from person to person. During pressure situations, I had a hard time choosing the desired person or eye on the A7R3. An example is you have a runway of models coming down and you need to switch from person to person. On the R6, you can switch fairly easily and get your shots. On the a7R3, it was trickier and often times, it would stick to a person too much.
The A7R3 is also terrible to hold but to each his own on handibility. I don't even have big hands and I find the A7R3 uncomfortable.
Now, I don't know about others, but I'm big into grabbing a camera and getting into shooting right away. The A7R3, like most Sony's, have to really be tailored to be used. Out of box, I hate the interface and usability. Now, recent Sony cameras have gotten better with a newer UI, but nowhere near Canon as out-of-box.
Also, I don't get the hate on EF glass. Red cameras use EF glass. Blackmagic cameras use EF glass. While the EF glass isn't as good as RF glass (especially in AF performance), that EF glass will perform better on the Canon mirrorless cameras better than on any Canon DSLR and certainly better than on Sony bodies.
https://www.usa.canon.c
I am wishing this post draws some comments which encourage me to keep the camera. Else, I will return the whole system in 2 days. FYI I am an original T4i user, not a power user but an enthusiast who found my iPhone 11 Pro lacking in my last year Kruger national park trip, hence wanted this camera. But for once a year use, I am not going to invest the time learning Lightroom or RAW photos. I want the camera software to do it all like the modern phones do. I do know the theoretical photography concepts - f Number, Aperture priority, Shutter priority etc but still the night photos were not as good as what the iPhone 14 Pro does in it's automatic software processing taking multiple shots over a period of 3 seconds and blending them to reduce even subject motion (and not just hand shake)! That R6 was not able to do - there was subject blur (agreed I should have bumped up the ISO but even with that, the R6 does not have capability to take multiple shots over 3 seconds and merge them - I hear R6 Mk II has that night mode where it merges consecutive exposures). However I was quite happy with the 50 mm prime on portrait photos...
I am wishing this post draws some comments which encourage me to keep the camera. Else, I will return the whole system in 2 days. FYI I am an original T4i user, not a power user but an enthusiast who found my iPhone 11 Pro lacking in my last year Kruger national park trip, hence wanted this camera. But for once a year use, I am not going to invest the time learning Lightroom or RAW photos. I want the camera software to do it all like the modern phones do. I do know the theoretical photography concepts - f Number, Aperture priority, Shutter priority etc but still the night photos were not as good as what the iPhone 14 Pro does in it's automatic software processing taking multiple shots over a period of 3 seconds and blending them to reduce even subject motion (and not just hand shake)! That R6 was not able to do - there was subject blur (agreed I should have bumped up the ISO but even with that, the R6 does not have capability to take multiple shots over 3 seconds and merge them - I hear R6 Mk II has that night mode where it merges consecutive exposures). However I was quite happy with the 50 mm prime on portrait photos...
If you want a ready-to-post image out of the R6 camera, you could enable HDR PQ mode. Or you could use the HDR mode. HDR mode is basically merging 3 photos of different exposures into a single JPEG photo. and it's much faster than 3 seconds.
The R6 does have multiple exposure mode where it merges 2-9 photos of different exposures to produce a single raw image.
But another thing is taking images of fast moving objects. kids running around. smartphones basically force people to be still. the r6 can rip at 20 frames per second. the person can be doing a hip hop dance and you can catch every motion in pinpoint sharpness.
But that flash in a nice softbox can take your photography next level. But if you want to only be run and gun, the Magmod magsphere or Magbounce are awesome. They let you have the advantage of the flash without the small flash look.
Okay, so Lightroom is years ahead of where it was just a couple years ago because of all the AI additions they made to it. It almost makes editing photos too easily and quickly where normal people can do amazing things that used to require long Youtube tutorials previously.
But if you don't want to learn Lightroom or Photoshop, you can load the raw image, apply the camera profile and then export to JPEG. So if for example you like the look of the Portrait JPEG picture profile in the camera, you can load the raw pics in lightroom, select Camera Portrait and it'll apply that look to the photo. No editing.
What I do is I load the raw image, apply the camera profile, move a few sliders to get the look I want. And then I use the magic of the AI tools.
Also, there's a ton of great software that can complement LR or PS. Topaz Labs has a great DeNoise AI that takes all the guesswork of how to denoise an image. So take that photo at ISO 25600 in darkness and then run through denoise and be amazed. It will destroy what you see in smartphones.
But yes, computational photography in smartphones means the photos punch way above their weight class. But all that computation doesn't really help smartphone videos as I find all smartphone videos very mediocre to bad.
But in the end, it just feels like you're more of a smartphone camera user than a guy that wants to take amazing photos. Photos that make people go wow. Rarely do people go wow at a smartphone picture. Smartphone pics are great for the moment but then people move on to the next moment and forget the last photo. Don't stress. You do you.
Also, don't buy so many lenses. A bunch of good lenses will never match one amazing lens. Sure, it's nice to have a lot of lenses for a lot of different scenarios. But you want a lens that makes you go wow at a photo. Like my 85 mm 1.2 isn't the most commonly used lens (that would be the 35 1.8), but it's the lens I always want to grab and the lens that is reliable for producing wow moments.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
If you want a ready-to-post image out of the R6 camera, you could enable HDR PQ mode. Or you could use the HDR mode. HDR mode is basically merging 3 photos of different exposures into a single JPEG photo. and it's much faster than 3 seconds.
The R6 does have multiple exposure mode where it merges 2-9 photos of different exposures to produce a single raw image.
But another thing is taking images of fast moving objects. kids running around. smartphones basically force people to be still. the r6 can rip at 20 frames per second. the person can be doing a hip hop dance and you can catch every motion in pinpoint sharpness.
But that flash in a nice softbox can take your photography next level. But if you want to only be run and gun, the Magmod magsphere or Magbounce are awesome. They let you have the advantage of the flash without the small flash look.
Okay, so Lightroom is years ahead of where it was just a couple years ago because of all the AI additions they made to it. It almost makes editing photos too easily and quickly where normal people can do amazing things that used to require long Youtube tutorials previously.
But if you don't want to learn Lightroom or Photoshop, you can load the raw image, apply the camera profile and then export to JPEG. So if for example you like the look of the Portrait JPEG picture profile in the camera, you can load the raw pics in lightroom, select Camera Portrait and it'll apply that look to the photo. No editing.
What I do is I load the raw image, apply the camera profile, move a few sliders to get the look I want. And then I use the magic of the AI tools.
Also, there's a ton of great software that can complement LR or PS. Topaz Labs has a great DeNoise AI that takes all the guesswork of how to denoise an image. So take that photo at ISO 25600 in darkness and then run through denoise and be amazed. It will destroy what you see in smartphones.
But yes, computational photography in smartphones means the photos punch way above their weight class. But all that computation doesn't really help smartphone videos as I find all smartphone videos very mediocre to bad.
But in the end, it just feels like you're more of a smartphone camera user than a guy that wants to take amazing photos. Photos that make people go wow. Rarely do people go wow at a smartphone picture. Smartphone pics are great for the moment but then people move on to the next moment and forget the last photo. Don't stress. You do you.
Also, don't buy so many lenses. A bunch of good lenses will never match one amazing lens. Sure, it's nice to have a lot of lenses for a lot of different scenarios. But you want a lens that makes you go wow at a photo. Like my 85 mm 1.2 isn't the most commonly used lens (that would be the 35 1.8), but it's the lens I always want to grab and the lens that is reliable for producing wow moments.
I am wishing this post draws some comments which encourage me to keep the camera. Else, I will return the whole system in 2 days. FYI I am an original T4i user, not a power user but an enthusiast who found my iPhone 11 Pro lacking in my last year Kruger national park trip, hence wanted this camera. But for once a year use, I am not going to invest the time learning Lightroom or RAW photos. I want the camera software to do it all like the modern phones do. I do know the theoretical photography concepts - f Number, Aperture priority, Shutter priority etc but still the night photos were not as good as what the iPhone 14 Pro does in it's automatic software processing taking multiple shots over a period of 3 seconds and blending them to reduce even subject motion (and not just hand shake)! That R6 was not able to do - there was subject blur (agreed I should have bumped up the ISO but even with that, the R6 does not have capability to take multiple shots over 3 seconds and merge them - I hear R6 Mk II has that night mode where it merges consecutive exposures). However I was quite happy with the 50 mm prime on portrait photos...
https://www.dxomark.com/smartphon...e-quality/
In any case pretty sure it's the L. $400 for a refurb non-L is a ripoff.
https://www.dxomark.com/smartphon...e-quality/
https://www.dxomark.com/smartphon...e-quality/ [dxomark.com]
Save your money. Why spend all that money if your phone does everything you want? You said you use your camera once a year and don't want to mess with RAW photos or processing and just want everything done automatically for you. ILC isn't for you it seems.
In any case pretty sure it's the L. $400 for a refurb non-L is a ripoff.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.