Bambu Lab USA via TikTok Shop (
must click link from your mobile deive w/ the TikTop app installed) has select
Bambu Lab 3D Printers & Accessories on sale as listed below after coupon discount when you purchase via the TikTok app (
iOS or
Android). Shipping starts at $20 and may vary depending on item selected.
Thanks to community members
Makaveli6103,
Nm4223 &
nismos14 for finding this deal.
Instructions:- Install TikTok app (iOS / Android) on your phone/tablet & create/login to your account.
- Existing users may qualify for a 15% off coupon (max $30 discount).
- New users may qualify for a 45% off coupon (max $20 discount)
- On your mobile device w/ TikTok app installed, click here to visit Bambu Lab's official store in the TikTok app.
- Add eligible item(s) to cart.
- Coupon will be applied automatically at checkout.
Examples (click links on your device
w/ TikTok app installed)
:- A1 Mini 3D Printer
- $169.15 w/ 15% coupon + $20 shipping = $189.15
- $162 w/ 45% coupon + $20 shipping = $182
- A1 Mini Combo
- $319 w/ 15% coupon + $20 shipping = $339
- $312 w/ 45% coupon + $20 shipping = $332
- A1 3D Printer
- $309 w/ 15% coupon + $20 shipping = $329
- $302 w/ 45% coupon + $20 shipping = $322
- A1 Combo
- $459 w/ 15% coupon + $25 shipping = $484.99
- $452 w/ 45% coupon + $25 shipping = $477
- X1-Carbon 3D Printer
- $1,019 w/ 15% coupon + $30 shipping = $1,049
- $1,019 w/ 45% coupon + $30 shipping = $1,049
- X1-Carbon Combo
- $1,269 w/ 15% coupon + $35 shipping = $1,304
- $1,262 w/ 45% coupon + $35 shipping = $1,297
Store.Bambu Lab has select
Bambu Lab 3D Printers & Accessories on sale listed below. Shipping charges apply and will
vary by product/location.
Examples (add to cart from
sale page)
:- 3D Printers:
- A1 Mini 3D Printer $199
- Combo $349
- Combo includes: AMS lite Stand, AMS lite Body, 4x AMS lite Rotary Spool Holder, 3x PTFE Tube
- A1 3D Printer $339
- Combo $489
- Combo includes: AMS lite Stand, AMS lite Body, 4x AMS lite Rotary Spool Holder, PTFE Tube
- P1S 3D Printer $599
- Combo $849
- Combo includes: Bambu Lab AMS, 2x Spare Filament Cutter, 6-Pin Bambu Bus Cable, 4-Pin Bambu Bus Cable, Bambu PLA Filament, Bambu Filament-Support for PLA
- X1-Carbon 3D Printer Combo $1299
- Filament
- Basic Filaments
- from $19.99 per roll when you purchase 1-3 rolls
- from $14.99 per roll when you purchase 4-7 rolls
- from $13.99 per roll when you purchase 8+ rolls
- Aesthetic Filaments $24.99
- & More
Micro Center also has select
Bambu Lab 3D Printers on sale. Select free store pickup or purchase in-store where stock permits. [
Discuss]
- Note: Availability for pickup may vary by location.
Examples:
Top Comments
Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with any 3D printing company. I'm just a guy who did months of research before buying the P1S during last year's Black Friday Sale. A few months later, I added an AMS. I've done exotic materials (Carbon Fiber reinforced nylon, TPU) as well as PLA and PLA+.
If you compare Bambu to previous manufacturers, Bambu printers are considered the "Apple of 3D printers." They aren't the first to implement all of its features, but they combined them in a good package that is easy to use.
The printer comes mostly pre-built. You just have to do a little building of accessories that don't pack/ship well. For the P1S, you can get your first print going in ~20 minutes of opening the box. Old school hobbyist know the pain of having to build a printer from scratch/pile of pieces. Bambu printers have auto-leveling. Not having to manually level the print bed between prints is huge. My buddy with an Ender 3 gave up the hobby because of just leveling the bed and the frustrations with that.
Bambu's slicer software has an awesome base configuration with defaults. You can literally just download an STL, load it, and hit run for something like the benchy boat. If you need supports, you just hit a checkbox and auto-supports does a fantastic job of supporting locations that need it. Printing a vase? Check the box for vase mode! It does awesome with the default settings. The slicer stuff carries over to the AMS. If you have a .3mf or some other multi-color file, just import it! You select the colors/rolls you have and it gives you a great preview of what it will do.You can even take a single color .stl and "paint" a multi-color print with it right in the software. Then of course you have the flexibility to customize every aspect and print setting you want. It accepts .gcode as well you can just import for custom settings.
I got the P1S over the A1 specifically because I wanted to print "exotic" materials. Not to mention the higher bed and nozzle temps needed. Some of these materials need an enclosure to maintain a higher air temperature for the duration of the print. This is opposite than say PLA which it's even recommended to open up the lid to have open air for the print. I've done TPU and PA6-CF. I've gotten really great results with the default settings in the Bambu slicer software. One thing I'd advise is to use and directly print from a filament dryer. I personally have the Sunlu S2 that has exit holes to print directly from the dryer. This is especially needed for carbon fiber filaments, so you are drying as you are printing for long prints. Drying these types of filaments is critical for good prints. I ordered both TPU and PA6-CF and both were "moist" (TPU was at like 45% relative humidity and the PA6-CF was at like 25%) right out of the package. Since the S2 only gets up to 70C, the drying time needs to be extended. For TPU, I think I dried it for 3 days, and the CF I did for 1-2 days. The goal was to get it under 20% for my locale and average humidity in my house.
I also changed to hardened steel 0.6mm nozzle for PA6-CF. Carbon fiber filaments are super abrasive and hardened steel nozzles are recommended. I have a hardened still extruder gear as well, but I haven't swapped that out. The larger nozzle size is also recommended to avoid clogging. You sacrifice fine detail with larger nozzle sizes. I just swap back to my 0.4mm steel for PLA prints as necessary. Swapping nozzles is easy, especially if you buy the entire hot-end assembly. I did just the nozzle and it took me about 20 minutes since I have to strip all of the parts off of the existing 0.4mm nozzle (ceramic heater, silicon sock, temperature gauge, fan). The whole hot-end swap would probably take 5 minutes. Don't forget to change the settings in the slicer for the new nozzle!
Also as a caution, other materials have a higher risk of harmful air particulates. The "S" in ASA and ABS is styrene, which basically releases burnt Styrofoam fumes when printing. If you've ever thrown a Styrofoam cup into a camp fire, you know how terrible that is. I got the Bento Box mod, which uses HEPA filters + activated charcoal for filtering air. I also printed a HEPA filter container for the vent at the back of the printer. I didn't smell any harmful fumes with any of the prints I did. You may consider using a separate unoccupied room for prints or getting a good filtering system setup.
As far as filament, I've tested Bambu, Sunlu, and Polymaker. I've had good results with each of them. Polymaker can be difficult in the AMS unit due to the cardboard spool. If it isn't round enough or if there are frayed edges it can have some difficulty spinning around in the AMS. There are some "adapters" you can print that go around the ring to make this better. I've printed some adapters in PLA and they work great. When you get rolls, pay attention to how they look and feel when you first get them. You want to be able to tell the difference because rolls left out in the open will absorb moisture from the air. Nothing will ruin your prints like printing with saturated filament. I started using vacuum-sealed bags + desiccant on most of my filament, but I think I'll transition to the cereal box containers + desiccant. Depending on the relative humidity of your storage location, it can take a few months before the filaments are greatly affected. And I also have the filament dryer that I can use to get them good again. Also the AMS unit has spots for desiccant packs, so you can use it as a sort of drying box as well.
Bambu will recommend their glue sticks for plates, but the only time I actually needed glue was for the PA6-CF filament. And I just used an Elmer's Glue stick and that worked just fine. You don't need specialty glue. PLA and PLA+ adheres just fine on the textured PEI plate the P1S comes with. No glue needed.
The AMS unit creates a lot of waste, aka filament poop. When doing multi-color prints, frequent filament changes cause a lot of waste due to the process. You can reduce it in the settings depending on your colors, but expect this. I've adjusted my settings a little for less waste, but it's still there. Consider if you are going from something like while to red. If you want the transition in the print to be crisp, you need to feed more of the color through so they don't mix before printing. I've printed a poop chute, but you want to make sure it doesn't get filled up and clogged. You can get errors in your print if that happens. Some people just have trash bins behind the printer it falls into.
I love the P1S and readily recommend it. The ease of use is just such a huge thing if you follow the 3D printing world. So much time is spend fiddling with hardware and settings to get good prints that you just don't have with Bambu. Yes it's more expensive than other printers, but in my research I decided I wanted to spend more money up-front to avoid headache and frustration on the back-end. I've been printing for 6 months now and I haven't had any problems on it.
I'd be happy to answer any questions.
293 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
From what I understand, the benefits of the sv06 are the all-metal nozzle end allowing for higher temp prints, auto bed leveling, and I believe the top thing levels itself too from the printer maxing out height on both sides of the towers. Also it appears that if there's a power outage (spool ends?) its good for that as well. Another big benefit imo of the sv06 is the widespread use of it so troubleshooting would be easier and settings more common, I'd imagine.
I have to do research in to the a1 but if anyone knows the big benefit to either one, I'd be thankful for the info.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Niteshade
From what I understand, the benefits of the sv06 are the all-metal nozzle end allowing for higher temp prints, auto bed leveling, and I believe the top thing levels itself too from the printer maxing out height on both sides of the towers. Also it appears that if there's a power outage (spool ends?) its good for that as well. Another big benefit imo of the sv06 is the widespread use of it so troubleshooting would be easier and settings more common, I'd imagine.
I have to do research in to the a1 but if anyone knows the big benefit to either one, I'd be thankful for the info.
Plus then you can add an AMS Lite when you feel like it for easy multicolor prints.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I bought a P1P and I regret not buying the AMS combo, for example.
I bought a P1P and I regret not buying the AMS combo, for example.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.