expired Posted by Meowssi | Staff • Feb 10, 2025
Feb 10, 2025 6:27 PM
Item 1 of 1
expired Posted by Meowssi | Staff • Feb 10, 2025
Feb 10, 2025 6:27 PM
Flashforge Adventurer 5M High-Speed 600 mm/s Auto Leveling WiFi 3D Printer
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Software experience is up to you to decide. Bambu is very good here.
As long as you don't bring in Mulit color into the equation. This is also much cheaper right now vs A1.
Some may also say the firmware fiasco could push some users away from Bambu though. I don't personally care and I think it's overblown and will pass
I would buy this over A1 mini at this price
It doesn't seem fair to blame the printer, unless it has trouble actually heating the nozzle.
As someone with a Bambu X1C and an old Creality Ender 3, I don't recommend Bambu for beginners. It's counterintuitive, but 3D printing really requires getting a feel for the balance of many variables. Bambu literally prevents you from making on the fly adjustments, which is essential for learning. Each print takes ~7 minutes to start (3 is you get some optimized startup routine gcode), so you can't, for instance, nudge the z offset a little while printing or tinker with the bed leveling (warped beds are not rare for Bambu printers). Instead, you'll have to adjust, wait 7 minutes, check output, cancel, adjust, wait 7 minutes, etc.
Add to that the fact that Bambu is CLEARLY aiming to lock down user choices even further (and likely go the way of Cricut and monetize every print), and I'd recommend staying away. I'll be selling my X1C once I decide of the replacement. For a beginner, I recommend checking the options around $300 from the popular brands (Creality, Anycubic, etc.) and just make sure to get one with automatic bed leveling and a good community behind it (also preferably open source and "direct drive"). Overall, I think it's important to first get something you're not afraid to take apart. It's really hard to actually ruin a printer, but semi-easy to break parts. With a cheap printer, you're out $5 and a 2-day Amazon (or 1 month AliExpress) wait for replacements.
If the goal is to start printing trinkets right away, yeah Bambu will work, but when you run into problems (and you 100% will with ANY 3D printer), you're likely to spend more time fixing them and less likely to learn why the fixes work. The field just isn't at the point where you can reasonably expect to begin from zero knowledge and have a trouble-free experience.
At least that's my $0.02.
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I'm running everything off stock flashforge profiles off of the flashforge orca slicer.
Out of the 25+ hours I've printed, I only see MINOR imperfections...
Underextrusion because it ramped up to 300-500mm/s around a corner for ONE print.
Uneven lines on a couple spots that I caught because of light angle on 3 prints. I didn't have enough Z hop, so the print head smacked the printed piece a few times. All minor fixes, & all user error.
For what it's worth, i'm coming from an old (super heavily modified CR-10)... I've modified it enough to know how to build my own bedslinger now (hot ends, extruders, toolheads, Motors, rollers, gantries, etc... you name it, i touched it! I built it fast enough to meet bambu speeds, & match P1P/P1S quality).
I'm running everything off stock flashforge profiles off of the flashforge orca slicer.
Out of the 25+ hours I've printed, I only see MINOR imperfections...
Underextrusion because it ramped up to 300-500mm/s around a corner for ONE print.
Uneven lines on a couple spots that I caught because of light angle on 3 prints. I didn't have enough Z hop, so the print head smacked the printed piece a few times. All minor fixes, & all user error.
For what it's worth, i'm coming from an old (super heavily modified CR-10)... I've modified it enough to know how to build my own bedslinger now (hot ends, extruders, toolheads, Motors, rollers, gantries, etc... you name it, i touched it! I built it fast enough to meet bambu speeds, & match P1P/P1S quality).
Doing a Pressure Advance calibration can also help corner quality.
I found that bed-leveling- which uses pressure sensing (as on my K1)- does require the whole bed / toolhead to be fully screwed down and stiff. Any looseness / give will result in an inconsistent zero for Z-height. When trying to fix a tilted bed graph, some add shims under the lead-screw bed mount point. Just make sure not to pick a shim material that has squishy-ness.
Edit: Looks like under-extrusion can happen on these printers due to the toolhead getting too hot above the heatbreak. This can occur under many temperature conditions, so for reliability, an all-metal hotend with a good (titanium) heatbreak could help, or try upgrading fan flow.
Doing a Pressure Advance calibration can also help corner quality.
I found that bed-leveling- which uses pressure sensing (as on my K1)- does require the whole bed / toolhead to be fully screwed down and stiff. Any looseness / give will result in an inconsistent zero for Z-height. When trying to fix a tilted bed graph, some add shims under the lead-screw bed mount point. Just make sure not to pick a shim material that has squishy-ness.
Edit: Looks like under-extrusion can happen on these printers due to the toolhead getting too hot above the heatbreak. This can occur under many temperature conditions, so for reliability, an all-metal hotend with a good (titanium) heatbreak could help, or try upgrading fan flow.
I will admit, I got TOO excited, and did not perform my vol speed cal or pressure advance before I dipped into it. I'm assuming values need to be entered into slicer, rather than klipper, since klipper is so limited. (I prefer klipper config, i switch between multiple laptops).
I honestly only did resonance, PID, and bed level, and really just went to town out the box. It was great for 99% of printing everything (PLA)!
I would say there were only minor imperfections (which were VERY minor, it's an exaggeration when I saw under extrusion and uneven layer lines).