Joined Nov 2008
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Forum Thread
insalled new rotor, pad and caliper now wheel is too tight
June 11, 2017 at
06:04 PM
Installed new rear pad, rotor and caliper on my altima and the wheel is too tight. there is no space between the pads and rotor at all. took car for spin the wheel is getting hot.
Note: did the same on the rear passenger side no, such issue.
It is a remanufactured caliper from autozone, rotor/pad from advanced auto (a slickdeal find)
Any clues?
Note: did the same on the rear passenger side no, such issue.
It is a remanufactured caliper from autozone, rotor/pad from advanced auto (a slickdeal find)
Any clues?
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Go get another
Go get another
You could switch pads and then rotors with other side to see whats up.
are there removable shims on the pads?
You could switch pads and then rotors with other side to see whats up.
are there removable shims on the pads?
I will try to switch the pads and see. The other side I have been using for a month so may be worn a bit.
Thus is what I have m.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-wearever-gold-ceramic-brake-pads-rear-4-pad-set-gnad905/15520594-P?brandName=Carquest+Wearever+Gold
It is not removable from what I saw.
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When you're driving, the pads are separated from the rotor by a tiny fraction of an inch - the caliper has no mechanism to "pull back" the pads after it applies pressure to them to stop the car, so they are pretty much going to look like they are contacting the rotor even when the brake isn't being applies.
That said I have had one situation like yours - I heard the characteristic brake scrape, checked the wheels, noticed that the fronts were down, so I replaced the rotors and pads. I thought it was kinda fishy that the new pads didn't come with shims, but I "resurfaced" the old ones a bit with a wire wheel before installing the new pads. A few days later I noticed my MPG dropped by like 10% and also that one of the wheels was very hot. In the end I wound up buying a new set of pads with new shims - that fixed the issue which was one of the pads getting cocked in the shims and basically grinding against the rotor all the time. (lesson... always replace shims)
Can you manually rotate the wheels when the car is put on a jack and in (N)? IF so I don't think you have a caliper binding or cocked pad issue
Lastly, I used to have lots of issues with worn rotors - ever since I started bedding in new equipment [tirerack.com], that problem has stopped.
I am inclined to blame the rebuilt caliper here. I am also puzzled as to how you are able to install everything if it's really that tight. Did you have to (usually twist) the new caliper to get it all the way back into it's depressed position.
Question for clarification: You replaced both calipers or just one side?
When you're driving, the pads are separated from the rotor by a tiny fraction of an inch - the caliper has no mechanism to "pull back" the pads after it applies pressure to them to stop the car, so they are pretty much going to look like they are contacting the rotor even when the brake isn't being applies.
That said I have had one situation like yours - I heard the characteristic brake scrape, checked the wheels, noticed that the fronts were down, so I replaced the rotors and pads. I thought it was kinda fishy that the new pads didn't come with shims, but I "resurfaced" the old ones a bit with a wire wheel before installing the new pads. A few days later I noticed my MPG dropped by like 10% and also that one of the wheels was very hot. In the end I wound up buying a new set of pads with new shims - that fixed the issue which was one of the pads getting cocked in the shims and basically grinding against the rotor all the time. (lesson... always replace shims)
Can you manually rotate the wheels when the car is put on a jack and in (N)? IF so I don't think you have a caliper binding or cocked pad issue
Lastly, I used to have lots of issues with worn rotors - ever since I started bedding in new equipment [tirerack.com], that problem has stopped.
i could not turn the wheels while jacked up, right after install. it was so tight.
Mine was a new rotor, pad and caliper.
I am inclined to blame the rebuilt caliper here. I am also puzzled as to how you are able to install everything if it's really that tight. Did you have to (usually twist) the new caliper to get it all the way back into it's depressed position.
Question for clarification: You replaced both calipers or just one side?
i was able to close the caliper without much of a problem. (i had iinitially put the pad with wear indicator on outside and outside one inside. But then i could not close caliper. realized the issue and reversed the pads and was able to close the caliper). then tightened the 14mm bolt.
rear passenger side pads, rotor and caliper was replaced a month ago, no issues. this time did the same on rear driver side. i purchased 2 sets of pads, rotors and rebuilt calipers.