insalled new rotor, pad and caliper now wheel is too tight

The wheel is too tight? That doesn't make sense. Does the caliper move freely when off the vehicle? Did you lubricate it before installing? Did you make sure that the pads are seated fully in the caliper without any foreign object in the way?

I went through 3 rotors on my truck before I got one that didn't warp within 2 weeks

Go get another

Hmmm. Could that be the case here?. If it was warped then when rotating the wheel at some point it will be not tight Right? In this case it was tight 360 degree.

Just means I don't trust either of those places
You could switch pads and then rotors with other side to see whats up.
are there removable shims on the pads?

I will hate myself if I have to remove the caliper itself again. Loosening the bracket bolt was PITA

I would take it apart and reassemble. Either something isn't assembled correctly or you have a defective part.

bent bolt or not sliding along the bolt, keeping it pushed to one side

If you were able to reassemble it, then there should be enough room for free movement. That said, everything must be lubed properly and I hope you replaced the "shims" (really, they are slides for the pads to ensure they move properly).

When you're driving, the pads are separated from the rotor by a tiny fraction of an inch - the caliper has no mechanism to "pull back" the pads after it applies pressure to them to stop the car, so they are pretty much going to look like they are contacting the rotor even when the brake isn't being applies.

That said I have had one situation like yours - I heard the characteristic brake scrape, checked the wheels, noticed that the fronts were down, so I replaced the rotors and pads. I thought it was kinda fishy that the new pads didn't come with shims, but I "resurfaced" the old ones a bit with a wire wheel before installing the new pads. A few days later I noticed my MPG dropped by like 10% and also that one of the wheels was very hot. In the end I wound up buying a new set of pads with new shims - that fixed the issue which was one of the pads getting cocked in the shims and basically grinding against the rotor all the time. (lesson... always replace shims)

Can you manually rotate the wheels when the car is put on a jack and in (N)? IF so I don't think you have a caliper binding or cocked pad issue

Lastly, I used to have lots of issues with worn rotors - ever since I started bedding in new equipment [tirerack.com], that problem has stopped.

Rotors can wear out???
I am inclined to blame the rebuilt caliper here. I am also puzzled as to how you are able to install everything if it's really that tight. Did you have to (usually twist) the new caliper to get it all the way back into it's depressed position.

Question for clarification: You replaced both calipers or just one side?