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My first two literally paid for themselves within two months. Not only was it easier to kill the power, but I could also check how much electricity each tap was drawing.
Just a tip for anybody getting these. Here is a quick and easy way to set them up. No matter how many you bought, go near your Internet router. Load the app and plug in the unit. Hold down the power button until it's rapidly flashing, then "add device" on app, and choose "socket" manually. Pick Wi-Fi name and your password. Set all of your devices all on the same tap near your router, then move them around your home afterwards. The reason I'm saying this is they will establish the connection and load faster if you do them all near the router. Good luck.
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The one KMC's "Made in China" actually was sold built.
Later on Vietnam made are so bad.
I has made in chinese. Need to resoldering the connectors and pcb parts in AC lines.
Mine is cracking now. Due to heay my guessing
Price does not lie heheheh
both looked used and returned. I'm going to return it not risking my stuff on it.
This gives me the opportunity to post before and after pictures to show what is needed to beef this unit up so that it actually supports the 15 amp current rating that's advertised. This is a Vietnam made unit, but I was pleasantly surprised that the quality of this one is better than my failed Chinese unit. It came with the latest 1.0.5 firmware installed so it's harder to put alternative firmware on it.
Pictures 1 & 2 show the unit taken apart. Picture 3 & 4 show the circuit board trace that is carrying the current. Picture 5 shows it after adding additional solder.
My guess at current rating with the board as it is from the factory is the following : Switch 1, 5A Switch 2, 7A, Switch 3, 10A [Edit: Scratch that, looking again I can barely say 7A for Switch 3, the trace just gets too small]. Always put your highest load on Switch 3 since it's closest to the mains on the board. If a had a free one of these for testing I would do a load test and get confirmed values, although the time the load runs is also important.
If you add solder to make it similar to my Picture 5, then it should handle 15A total across the outlets although to be safe put your lowest load on Switch 1.
What's your opinion cantalup?
This gives me the opportunity to post before and after pictures to show what is needed to beef this unit up so that it actually supports the 15 amp current rating that's advertised. This is a Vietnam made unit, but I was pleasantly surprised that the quality of this one is better than my failed Chinese unit. It came with the latest 1.0.5 firmware installed so it's harder to put alternative firmware on it.
Pictures 1 & 2 show the unit taken apart. Picture 3 & 4 show the circuit board trace that is carrying the current. Picture 5 shows it after adding additional solder.
My guess at current rating with the board as it is from the factory is the following : Switch 1, 5A Switch 2, 7A, Switch 3, 10A [Edit: Scratch that, looking again I can barely say 7A for Switch 3, the trace just gets too small]. Always put your highest load on Switch 3 since it's closest to the mains on the board. If a had a free one of these for testing I would do a load test and get confirmed values, although the time the load runs is also important.
If you add solder to make it similar to my Picture 5, then it should handle 15A total across the outlets although to be safe put your lowest load on Switch 1.
What's your opinion cantalup?
The load depends on the relays. It labels as 15A/each on it
Crosshatch patterns like this are terrible for current flow. They are only supposed to be used for ground planes or impedance control. What happens in this type of pattern is that intersections burn out one at a time until there is nothing left. A wire does not do that because all strands of a wire are the the same length from the source to destination. No strand is shorter and thus lower resistance causing increased current on that pathway.
Read the Amazon reviews, numerous other people have had the same result.
Crosshatch patterns like this are terrible for current flow. They are only supposed to be used for ground planes or impedance control. What happens in this type of pattern is that intersections burn out one at a time until there is nothing left. A wire does not do that because all strands of a wire are the the same length from the source to destination. No strand is shorter and thus lower resistance causing increased current on that pathway.
Read the Amazon reviews, numerous other people have had the same result.
I am using full load 15A for more than half hour a day every day
(connect with induction stove 1800W).
The only thing is matter is the 15A relay. Forgot your gauge theroy on the paper to be in the real world
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I am doing reality test.
I own Master Degree in E.E.
the terrible assembly work
https://www.amazon.com/product-re...filter-bar [amazon.com]
The one KMC's "Made in China" actually was sold built.
Later on Vietnam made are so bad.
First it's going to burn down your house, now you say you use it daily with 1800W. If you made a mistake, now is the time to say so. Archives in case you decide to delete your comments from 1 week ago. Page 9: http://archive.is/diS13 Page 10: http://archive.is/YoTNZ
I posted my opinion which is that these units are unfit for 15A from the factory but can be repaired to be safe. Readers can decide for themselves what to make of other's opinions.
You can see I actually had thumbed up your response about the poorly made Vietnam models and now you are fighting with me over their quality
I own Master Degree in E.E.
EDIT: Bought 2 pack, only received 1. They are sending another but that's it for me.