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For annealed glass and the OP carbide spade bits, you should use a coolant, but like when vertical, you don't have to if you slowly go and stop, allowing to cool, that will exponentially increase the time required... No hammer drill of any type, we use most any type of oil inside a small circular putty dam (plumber's putty, glazing compound like Dap 33 or 1012, etc.) to contain, with a backer behind the glass when laying flat ---typically a piece of junk plexiglass or polycarbonate to keep the spade bit centered and retain some of the coolant while going the rest of the way through.... About the time when the bit tip has gone through, your coolant has mostly leaked out, but some will gather in the hole being created in the backer that helps, but you probably need to add a little more as you go. Mirror is glass with a reflective coating and then a sealer.
Note: Tempered or Heat strengthened glass or mirror cannot be drilled, cut or modified in any way with the exception being acid etched or maybe media blast etching that may or may not work. If tempered, there will typically be a factory mark in the corner with an ANSI number and if you try, you will hear a loud pop and a zillion pieces like what happens with a broken side or back glass in a vehicle. And yes, all shower doors are tempered with any holes drilled prior to tempering.
*THIS IS IMPORTANT* DO NOT USE HAMMER DRILLING. These bits work by slowly grinding out the holes, being careful to apply only light pressure. (It's also important to keep the drill site wet and spin the bit straight on and only at a moderate speed.) Hammer action will shatter your tiles/ glass/ mirror.
Please remove "Hammer Drill" from the title.
As an alternative to these carbide, most professionals that drill a lot of holes, use diamond bits for drilling hard products like porcelain, glass, granite, etc., but good ones cost substantially more and when worn out, you throw away.... Being optimistic, for the cost, maybe the cheap diamond bits at the box stores work out the same price per hole. Whatever you decide, if you can afford, buy extra, as you can always take what you don't use back at your convenience.
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*THIS IS IMPORTANT* DO NOT USE HAMMER DRILLING. These bits work by slowly grinding out the holes, being careful to apply only light pressure. (It's also important to keep the drill site wet and spin the bit straight on and only at a moderate speed.) Hammer action will shatter your tiles/ glass/ mirror.
Please remove "Hammer Drill" from the title.
*THIS IS IMPORTANT* DO NOT USE HAMMER DRILLING. These bits work by slowly grinding out the holes, being careful to apply only light pressure. (It's also important to keep the drill site wet and spin the bit straight on and only at a moderate speed.) Hammer action will shatter your tiles/ glass/ mirror.
Please remove "Hammer Drill" from the title.
*THIS IS IMPORTANT* DO NOT USE HAMMER DRILLING. These bits work by slowly grinding out the holes, being careful to apply only light pressure. (It's also important to keep the drill site wet and spin the bit straight on and only at a moderate speed.) Hammer action will shatter your tiles/ glass/ mirror.
Please remove "Hammer Drill" from the title.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank ToolDeals
For annealed glass and the OP carbide spade bits, you should use a coolant, but like when vertical, you don't have to if you slowly go and stop, allowing to cool, that will exponentially increase the time required... No hammer drill of any type, we use most any type of oil inside a small circular putty dam (plumber's putty, glazing compound like Dap 33 or 1012, etc.) to contain, with a backer behind the glass when laying flat ---typically a piece of junk plexiglass or polycarbonate to keep the spade bit centered and retain some of the coolant while going the rest of the way through.... About the time when the bit tip has gone through, your coolant has mostly leaked out, but some will gather in the hole being created in the backer that helps, but you probably need to add a little more as you go. Mirror is glass with a reflective coating and then a sealer.
Note: Tempered or Heat strengthened glass or mirror cannot be drilled, cut or modified in any way with the exception being acid etched or maybe media blast etching that may or may not work. If tempered, there will typically be a factory mark in the corner with an ANSI number and if you try, you will hear a loud pop and a zillion pieces like what happens with a broken side or back glass in a vehicle. And yes, all shower doors are tempered with any holes drilled prior to tempering.
For annealed glass and the OP carbide spade bits, you should use a coolant, but like when vertical, you don't have to if you slowly go and stop, allowing to cool, that will exponentially increase the time required... No hammer drill of any type, we use most any type of oil inside a small circular putty dam (plumber's putty, glazing compound like Dap 33 or 1012, etc.) to contain, with a backer behind the glass when laying flat ---typically a piece of junk plexiglass or polycarbonate to keep the spade bit centered and retain some of the coolant while going the rest of the way through.... About the time when the bit tip has gone through, your coolant has mostly leaked out, but some will gather in the hole being created in the backer that helps, but you probably need to add a little more as you go. Mirror is glass with a reflective coating and then a sealer.
Note: Tempered or Heat strengthened glass or mirror cannot be drilled, cut or modified in any way with the exception being acid etched or maybe media blast etching that may or may not work. If tempered, there will typically be a factory mark in the corner with an ANSI number and if you try, you will hear a loud pop and a zillion pieces like what happens with a broken side or back glass in a vehicle. And yes, all shower doors are tempered with any holes drilled prior to tempering.
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PS: If you are drilling much glass, porcelain tile, or anything hard, a decent diamond bit will give you more mileage as in holes drilled. Experience says you get what you pay for, as they do make cheap diamond bits that are junk. These carbide bits vary in quality, but you can sharpen them for more mileage.... just maintain the angle of the one beveled edge when doing so.
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As an alternative to these carbide, most professionals that drill a lot of holes, use diamond bits for drilling hard products like porcelain, glass, granite, etc., but good ones cost substantially more and when worn out, you throw away.... Being optimistic, for the cost, maybe the cheap diamond bits at the box stores work out the same price per hole. Whatever you decide, if you can afford, buy extra, as you can always take what you don't use back at your convenience.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank nynate
The 4 piece is on sale at $10.99 but they do go down to $9 at times.
These bits are good but I consider them almost a disposable item when used on ceramic tile. You can get 5 to 7 holes per bit before having to trash them. I use water as a lubricant.
I also use mini diamond hole bits which have a much longer lifespan but they take way too long to drill one hole compared to these Bosch bits.
Tempted to get this larger set, even though it would be extra bits.