expired
Missed This Deal? Get alerts when similar deals are posted.
Deal Details
Just ordered 1 for myself...
Use code "ZPSB02" for $103 dollars off a CR-10 V2 3D printer from Creality.
$452 - $103 = $349.00.
Original Post (Currently Expired): https://slickdeals.net/f/14792947-creality-cr-10-v2-3d-printer-349-00-no-tax-free-shipping?v=1&sr
https://www.creality3do
Use code "ZPSB02" for $103 dollars off a CR-10 V2 3D printer from Creality.
$452 - $103 = $349.00.
Original Post (Currently Expired): https://slickdeals.net/f/14792947-creality-cr-10-v2-3d-printer-349-00-no-tax-free-shipping?v=1&sr
https://www.creality3do
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Just ordered 1 for myself...
Use code "ZPSB02" for $103 dollars off a CR-10 V2 3D printer from Creality.
$452 - $103 = $349.00.
Original Post (Currently Expired): https://slickdeals.net/f/14792947-creality-cr-10-v2-3d-printer-349-00-no-tax-free-shipping?v=1&sr
https://www.creality3do
Use code "ZPSB02" for $103 dollars off a CR-10 V2 3D printer from Creality.
$452 - $103 = $349.00.
Original Post (Currently Expired): https://slickdeals.net/f/14792947-creality-cr-10-v2-3d-printer-349-00-no-tax-free-shipping?v=1&sr
https://www.creality3do
Community Voting
Deal
Score
+17
Good Deal
Bad Deal
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!
50 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
There are workarounds to printing larger items...such as learning to split large objects into multiple smaller pieces using tools such as Meshmixer or Tinkercad. And that's really the point of my response; learning workarounds and solutioning for problems you'll encounter will be a requirement to enjoy this hobby.
I don't want to scare you off. 3d printers can be addictive. Many end up buying multiples, each functioning to serve as specific purpose such as printing only large prints or only small prints or printing specialty filaments, etc. We haven't had any significant issues and encounter primarily adhesion issues and finding the right print profiles to minimize globs, stringing, etc. Because the Ender 3 community is huge, we quickly found printing profiles for 28mm mining prints and well as printing PETG with little effort on Youtube.
Good luck
My main purpose is to print some arcade lcd frames for mini arcade mods I do. I'm currently cutting pieces of wood and painting it. The size of the bezel I use is near the max size of the 3v2. If I ever plan to make larger mods, I will be limited.
Looks like I have some more research to do. 🤦 ♂️
My main purpose is to print some arcade lcd frames for mini arcade mods I do. I'm currently cutting pieces of wood and painting it. The size of the bezel I use is near the max size of the 3v2. If I ever plan to make larger mods, I will be limited.
Looks like I have some more research to do. 🤦 ♂️
PLA is super great for a large variety of things... as long as they don't have to get too warm or take too much of a beating. If you're planning on making parts that have to take impact/stress or survive in the sun or other very warm environment, you'll likely want to use PETG or ABS. PLA will warp in a dishwasher, for example.
The good news is for the price difference between this and some of the enclosed units, you can build your own enclosure if you ever decide to use more advanced/gassy plastics like PETG and ABS.
it's never been that intense. That being said, I do still sense the smallest odor every once in a while...after all, a variety of chemicals are being melted and extruded at high temperatures. I can't imagine the effect on our bodies to be neutral, especially immature ones.
I have no empirical evidence to prove/disprove the continued exposure to active 3d printers is good or bad, but I do know you've only got one opportunity for those little bodies to grow right so in my opinion, and in a similar situation, I'd find a separated, different venue or wait to join the 3d printing community. They grow so quickly odds are you'll regret not having spent more time with them those first few years anyway. I also doubt you'll have wished, laying on your deathbed, to have spent more time 3d printing
Now that I've ordered this printer (my first 3D printer), what products do I need to order so I can start using it when it show up?😱
Thanks in advance.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
1) Don't go out and buy a bunch of things you 'think' you need; items commonly known as 'mods' and/or 'upgrades'.
2) Learn to print consistently well with just this printer by leveraging online resources such as youtube videos or other websites that give you tips to print well.
2.a) Learn how to manually level the print bed, watch the first layers go down, make a visual note in your mind what those first lines of goo need to look like. The most common issue we have is adhesion. Don't be afraid to use 'rafts' and slim them down if you wish to minimize waste. We also wipe down our magnetic surface regularly with isopropyl alcohol (IPA).
2.b) print a bunch of small items first to test the config and printer hardware setup and minimize waste if you have issues.
3) Don't automatically assume you have a hardware problem. Assume 1st you've got a configuration problem. Every print consistency issue we've had was profile-related (i.e. settings in the Slicer (like Cura)).
4) Find the cheapest resources for quality filament. We use Inland PLA+ filament from Microcenter. They offer a ridiculous variety of colors for $19+tx shipped.
5) Buy a cheap wireless camera to monitor the print if you're not near the printer to monitor progress/problems.
We did add items to our printer but not by buying them, but rather printing them. 1) a tool holder 2) a storage box 3) and an arm that keeps a nice even bend of the filament leading to the feeder (which you probably won't need).
Good luck
Now that I've ordered this printer (my first 3D printer), what products do I need to order so I can start using it when it show up?😱
Thanks in advance.
First and foremost, to echo what others have said, don't jump in and buy things just because some youtube video raves about it. There are lists of "best upgrades" out there, I am not sure they are all that valuable. I strongly recommend taking the time to do a proper setup.
1. Mounting the vertical frame to the horizontal frame, the four screws have some play, make sure to put some pressure on the joint in the same direction on both sides so that the vertical frame is not canted at an angle on the X-axis.
2. Installing the stabilizer rods, build them to exactly the same length and make sure the eyelets match the center of the screw holes. With the screws loose, the rods should jiggle freely and not have any tension. They are there to provide stability when the screws are tightened, not to pull the vertical frame one way or the other.
3. After assembly and powering the printer on, leveling the gantry is your first job, nothing else matters. The gantry is the horizontal bar that the hot end (print head) sits on. This needs to be absolutely horizontal when referenced to the frame. There are gantry leveling blocks you can print, but you can't print those because your printer is not setup yet. Ha! What you can do is find two of something around the house that has the same exact height and can fit under the gantry to serve as leveling blocks, maybe some lego pieces. If the gantry refuses to stay level with the stepper motors powered off, you need to fix the assembly of the gantry. Refer to this video: https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w?t=7
4. Step 3 is really important and there is no point in doing anything else until you have a level gantry. Most people's frustrations with their printer not staying level is because their gantry is not level.
5. After leveling the gantry, do an auto-home proceed to level the bed using this gantry height. Leveling the bed takes place with the steppers powered off, so if your gantry won't stay level, there is no point in leveling the bed. When leveling the bed, preheat it to 50 degrees. It makes things much easier to place the print nozzle directly above each adjustment screw when checking the clearance at that corner to minimize the lever effect. Also, note that the bed will be slightly higher in between the adjustment screws because of flex. Once you have the nozzle dialed-in directly above each adjustment screw, check the space in between and you'll likely have to back off one notch on the two adjustment screws flanking the center point.
6. Instead of using the Creality Slicer, I just went and installed Cura 4.8. Creality Slicer is a "customized" version of Cura and I am not aware of any special benefits of using the Creality Slicer. In the printer selection, there is no CR-10 V2, just pick CR-10S.
7. Next thing you need to do is calibrate the extruder. This is to make sure that the extruder is feeding the correct amount of filament. My printer was feeding 92mm when it was commanded to feed 100mm, so I adjusted the Estep/mm to 101 instead of 93 that it came configured as. There are tutorials on how to do this calibration so I won't describe it here. Just do it!
That's really it. Download Benchy, use the generic PLA profile in Cura, and print it! Wait for Benchy to completely cool before trying to remove it. It will release by itself when it is properly cooled.
The above is the current state of my printer, completely stock. After a few prints, I've decided on some simple mods:
- BLTouch auto bed leveling. Actually, I ordered this with my printer. It just hasn't arrived yet. Now that I have the gantry and bed leveled, I am not sure how much value this would be.
- Z-axis sync belt and pulley. While my gantry does stay leveled when powered off, it can go out of level if I bump the printer. The sync belt and pulley will prevent this.
- Capricorn XS feed tube. I don't plan to replace the whole feed tube, just the part in the hot end since Capricorn XS has a much higher melting temperature than regular teflon. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17
- Silent cooling fan mod, because the stock fans are noisy. Not sure which fan holder design I am going to print yet but it will definitely be two 120mm silent fans on the bottom of the control box.
That's it.
First and foremost, to echo what others have said, don't jump in and buy things just because some youtube video raves about it. There are lists of "best upgrades" out there, I am not sure they are all that valuable. I strongly recommend taking the time to do a proper setup.
1. Mounting the vertical frame to the horizontal frame, the four screws have some play, make sure to put some pressure on the joint in the same direction on both sides so that the vertical frame is not canted at an angle on the X-axis.
2. Installing the stabilizer rods, build them to exactly the same length and make sure the eyelets match the center of the screw holes. With the screws loose, the rods should jiggle freely and not have any tension. They are there to provide stability when the screws are tightened, not to pull the vertical frame one way or the other.
3. After assembly and powering the printer on, leveling the gantry is your first job, nothing else matters. The gantry is the horizontal bar that the hot end (print head) sits on. This needs to be absolutely horizontal when referenced to the frame. There are gantry leveling blocks you can print, but you can't print those because your printer is not setup yet. Ha! What you can do is find two of something around the house that has the same exact height and can fit under the gantry to serve as leveling blocks, maybe some lego pieces. If the gantry refuses to stay level with the stepper motors powered off, you need to fix the assembly of the gantry. Refer to this video: https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w?t=7
4. Step 3 is really important and there is no point in doing anything else until you have a level gantry. Most people's frustrations with their printer not staying level is because their gantry is not level.
5. After leveling the gantry, do an auto-home proceed to level the bed using this gantry height. Leveling the bed takes place with the steppers powered off, so if your gantry won't stay level, there is no point in leveling the bed. When leveling the bed, preheat it to 50 degrees. It makes things much easier to place the print nozzle directly above each adjustment screw when checking the clearance at that corner to minimize the lever effect. Also, note that the bed will be slightly higher in between the adjustment screws because of flex. Once you have the nozzle dialed-in directly above each adjustment screw, check the space in between and you'll likely have to back off one notch on the two adjustment screws flanking the center point.
6. Instead of using the Creality Slicer, I just went and installed Cura 4.8. Creality Slicer is a "customized" version of Cura and I am not aware of any special benefits of using the Creality Slicer. In the printer selection, there is no CR-10 V2, just pick CR-10S.
7. Next thing you need to do is calibrate the extruder. This is to make sure that the extruder is feeding the correct amount of filament. My printer was feeding 92mm when it was commanded to feed 100mm, so I adjusted the Estep/mm to 101 instead of 93 that it came configured as. There are tutorials on how to do this calibration so I won't describe it here. Just do it!
That's really it. Download Benchy, use the generic PLA profile in Cura, and print it! Wait for Benchy to completely cool before trying to remove it. It will release by itself when it is properly cooled.
The above is the current state of my printer, completely stock. After a few prints, I've decided on some simple mods:
- BLTouch auto bed leveling. Actually, I ordered this with my printer. It just hasn't arrived yet. Now that I have the gantry and bed leveled, I am not sure how much value this would be.
- Z-axis sync belt and pulley. While my gantry does stay leveled when powered off, it can go out of level if I bump the printer. The sync belt and pulley will prevent this.
- Capricorn XS feed tube. I don't plan to replace the whole feed tube, just the part in the hot end since Capricorn XS has a much higher melting temperature than regular teflon. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17
- Silent cooling fan mod, because the stock fans are noisy. Not sure which fan holder design I am going to print yet but it will definitely be two 120mm silent fans on the bottom of the control box.
That's it.
Why?
I dont own either (have a ender3pro) but in all of my research, the CR was recommend over the Ender 5 in EVER comparison/discussion with many reasons.
First and foremost, to echo what others have said, don't jump in and buy things just because some youtube video raves about it. There are lists of "best upgrades" out there, I am not sure they are all that valuable. I strongly recommend taking the time to do a proper setup.
1. Mounting the vertical frame to the horizontal frame, the four screws have some play, make sure to put some pressure on the joint in the same direction on both sides so that the vertical frame is not canted at an angle on the X-axis.
2. Installing the stabilizer rods, build them to exactly the same length and make sure the eyelets match the center of the screw holes. With the screws loose, the rods should jiggle freely and not have any tension. They are there to provide stability when the screws are tightened, not to pull the vertical frame one way or the other.
3. After assembly and powering the printer on, leveling the gantry is your first job, nothing else matters. The gantry is the horizontal bar that the hot end (print head) sits on. This needs to be absolutely horizontal when referenced to the frame. There are gantry leveling blocks you can print, but you can't print those because your printer is not setup yet. Ha! What you can do is find two of something around the house that has the same exact height and can fit under the gantry to serve as leveling blocks, maybe some lego pieces. If the gantry refuses to stay level with the stepper motors powered off, you need to fix the assembly of the gantry. Refer to this video: https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w?t=7
4. Step 3 is really important and there is no point in doing anything else until you have a level gantry. Most people's frustrations with their printer not staying level is because their gantry is not level.
5. After leveling the gantry, do an auto-home proceed to level the bed using this gantry height. Leveling the bed takes place with the steppers powered off, so if your gantry won't stay level, there is no point in leveling the bed. When leveling the bed, preheat it to 50 degrees. It makes things much easier to place the print nozzle directly above each adjustment screw when checking the clearance at that corner to minimize the lever effect. Also, note that the bed will be slightly higher in between the adjustment screws because of flex. Once you have the nozzle dialed-in directly above each adjustment screw, check the space in between and you'll likely have to back off one notch on the two adjustment screws flanking the center point.
6. Instead of using the Creality Slicer, I just went and installed Cura 4.8. Creality Slicer is a "customized" version of Cura and I am not aware of any special benefits of using the Creality Slicer. In the printer selection, there is no CR-10 V2, just pick CR-10S.
7. Next thing you need to do is calibrate the extruder. This is to make sure that the extruder is feeding the correct amount of filament. My printer was feeding 92mm when it was commanded to feed 100mm, so I adjusted the Estep/mm to 101 instead of 93 that it came configured as. There are tutorials on how to do this calibration so I won't describe it here. Just do it!
That's really it. Download Benchy, use the generic PLA profile in Cura, and print it! Wait for Benchy to completely cool before trying to remove it. It will release by itself when it is properly cooled.
The above is the current state of my printer, completely stock. After a few prints, I've decided on some simple mods:
- BLTouch auto bed leveling. Actually, I ordered this with my printer. It just hasn't arrived yet. Now that I have the gantry and bed leveled, I am not sure how much value this would be.
- Z-axis sync belt and pulley. While my gantry does stay leveled when powered off, it can go out of level if I bump the printer. The sync belt and pulley will prevent this.
- Capricorn XS feed tube. I don't plan to replace the whole feed tube, just the part in the hot end since Capricorn XS has a much higher melting temperature than regular teflon. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17
- Silent cooling fan mod, because the stock fans are noisy. Not sure which fan holder design I am going to print yet but it will definitely be two 120mm silent fans on the bottom of the control box.
That's it.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!