Joined Jul 2016
L6: Expert
Forum Thread
Android car stereo install questions
June 12, 2021 at
10:33 AM
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First off, the parts:
1997 Ford F350
ATOTO S8G1A84SD [amazon.com] head unit
ATOTO AC-HD02LR [amazon.com] backup camera
27' Travel trailer
Beastron [amazon.com] 2.4GHz Video Transmitter and Receiver
Trailer camera
The Beastron is to save the cost of paying someone to run a signal cable the length of the trailer. The ATOTO camera connects a bit differently so that the head unit can power it, allowing it to stay on without being in reverse gear. Attached is my wiring cheat sheet. I'll start soldering once I get some confirmation that the connections look correct, so please check it.
1997 Ford F350
ATOTO S8G1A84SD [amazon.com] head unit
ATOTO AC-HD02LR [amazon.com] backup camera
27' Travel trailer
Beastron [amazon.com] 2.4GHz Video Transmitter and Receiver
Trailer camera
The Beastron is to save the cost of paying someone to run a signal cable the length of the trailer. The ATOTO camera connects a bit differently so that the head unit can power it, allowing it to stay on without being in reverse gear. Attached is my wiring cheat sheet. I'll start soldering once I get some confirmation that the connections look correct, so please check it.
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10 Comments
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As for soldering, I hope you're planning to make or buy a wiring harness adapter that adapts the factory wiring harness to the new stereo. There could be a few things that weren't part of the factory harness like a wire to sense if you're in reverse. That's old enough there probably isn't a CAN bus connection for the stereo or steering wheel controls to adapt.
If in doubt, try to test that you have the right wire. I knew someone who's car stereo install at one of the big outfits went awry, they managed to screw up wiring for turn signals, wipers, etc. in the process.
As for soldering, I hope you're planning to make or buy a wiring harness adapter that adapts the factory wiring harness to the new stereo. There could be a few things that weren't part of the factory harness like a wire to sense if you're in reverse. That's old enough there probably isn't a CAN bus connection for the stereo or steering wheel controls to adapt.
If in doubt, try to test that you have the right wire. I knew someone who's car stereo install at one of the big outfits went awry, they managed to screw up wiring for turn signals, wipers, etc. in the process.
I'm on mobile right now and it's a bit hard to decipher your wiring schematic. It's not entirely clear where everything is going (could be formatting on my part).
When soldering, make sure you know how to make a good solder joint (I.E. not a cold solder joint). Back when I did car stereo/alarm installs there were quite a few 'professionals' that did not know how to solder correctly. Also, make sure you use quality electrical tape or heat shrink. I like 3M super 33 electrical tape (very stretchy and heat resistant - good in the car environment).
A few more comments:
1) What is the Furrion power adapter you are using? They make all sorts of adapters.
2) Are you using 2 backup cameras that are the same? A truck backup camera and a trailer camera with the trailer camera attached to the RF transmitter? Depending on how the head unit handles the inputs, you may want to use the front camera and rear camera inputs.
3) You aren't showing power hookups for one side of the RF receiver. What is your plan here? Hookup the same with the head unit power?
4) Are you positive the 'floating display' will clear the recess of the F350 stock stereo install?
5) Are you using the 'Scosche FD02B' for the harness to install or hard wiring to the existing wiring by using that as a guide? Like jkee, said, I'd recommend having the harness instead of hard wiring.
5.1) I would use this harness for powering the RF receiver as well (assuming it doesn't draw too much power [doesn't seem like it should]).
6) My previous comment on soldering still applies. Make sure you know how to do this correctly (not hard - many good tutorials online - like this one [youtube.com]). I recommend having solder with the flux built into the solder.
A few more comments:
1) What is the Furrion power adapter you are using? They make all sorts of adapters.
2) Are you using 2 backup cameras that are the same? A truck backup camera and a trailer camera with the trailer camera attached to the RF transmitter? Depending on how the head unit handles the inputs, you may want to use the front camera and rear camera inputs.
3) You aren't showing power hookups for one side of the RF receiver. What is your plan here? Hookup the same with the head unit power?
4) Are you positive the 'floating display' will clear the recess of the F350 stock stereo install?
5) Are you using the 'Scosche FD02B' for the harness to install or hard wiring to the existing wiring by using that as a guide? Like jkee, said, I'd recommend having the harness instead of hard wiring.
5.1) I would use this harness for powering the RF receiver as well (assuming it doesn't draw too much power [doesn't seem like it should]).
6) My previous comment on soldering still applies. Make sure you know how to do this correctly (not hard - many good tutorials online - like this one [youtube.com]). I recommend having solder with the flux built into the solder.
1. The trailer has a powered (from the running lights) mount for a wireless Furrion camera already installed on the back. I have this adapter kit [amazon.com] that is working so far. I haven't yet tested to see if the RF kit is powerful enough to get from one end of the trailer to the other.
2. No. I may use a spare camera for the trailer. I don't know much about it, but it likes the RF kit. It appears that VIN is considered an Aux input and where I'll connect the trailer cam because though the front camera input is seen by the same app, it is designated for the dashcam accessory. I am using the ATOTO camera for the truck backup cam though because it can be controlled by the reverse lights and easily overridden to stay on during difficult maneuvering. I think I'll even be able to split screen the cams.
3. I'm not showing power input for the RF receiver because it hasn't been determined yet. I'd like to mount it to the truck, but I don't see anywhere that is out of the weather and not surrounded by steel. The deep cycle batteries are mounted in a plastic enclosure on the tongue. I'm thinking of mounting it inside that with a switch and fuse directly to those batteries. I would then run a short RCA cable from there to a connector on the truck bumper (I'll consult my brother in law about that. He's running a a dual wired cam kit). I'll throw a layer or two of loom on that for some protection.
4. I haven't tried it with the actual unit yet, but I made a mockup from their given dimensions and that fit quite well.
5. Plug ends of FD02B go to F350 plugs and wire ends of FD02B are soldered to their counterparts on the head unit harness. 5.1 As mentioned I'll probably pull the receiver power from the trailer deep cycle cells.
6. I'll take a look at that, thanks!
Fits (almost) great. Between the short FM antenna, the various connections, harnesses, and cable bundles for the GPS and wifi antennas it was difficult to stuff inside the dash. As the pictures show it looks great once in though. The cables are one foot aux and USB extensions because I knew the front ports would be difficult to reach.
What matters is that it works and that you are happy with it. 👍
There are antenna extensions available and it's possible you could locate the GPS antenna somewhere else (depends on cable length - may get better reception as well).
It's also possible to put your USB and aux connections in 'blank' spots in your dash, but that might be more work than you want to tackle.
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There are antenna extensions available and it's possible you could locate the GPS antenna somewhere else (depends on cable length - may get better reception as well).
It's also possible to put your USB and aux connections in 'blank' spots in your dash, but that might be more work than you want to tackle.
Oof on the mess. Someone surely didn't know how to organize wiring when they were doing stuff. Kind of looks like an alarm install, but hard to tell for sure.
As for the relay, some of the comments in that video mentioned pulling the cup holder for easier access.
Usually easiest to get the reverse at the rear light, but there are wires up front as well. Try this discussion - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forum...ost3592
I'm not sure if your radio has guide lines or the camera does. Sometimes there are some wires on the camera that need to be cut or put together to enable guide lines.
As for the relay, some of the comments in that video mentioned pulling the cup holder for easier access.
Usually easiest to get the reverse at the rear light, but there are wires up front as well. Try this discussion - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forum...ost3592
I'm not sure if your radio has guide lines or the camera does. Sometimes there are some wires on the camera that need to be cut or put together to enable guide lines.