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SUNLU 1.75mm 1kg PETG 3D Printer Filaments EXPIRED

10 for $100
$249.99
+ Free Shipping
+39 Deal Score
17,774 Views
SUNLU has select SUNLU 1.75mm 1kg PETG 3D Printer Filaments on sale 10 for $99.99 when you apply discount code PETGMRS during checkout. Shipping is free.

Thanks to Community Member n0p for posting this deal.

Deal Instructions:
  1. Visit the page for SUNLU 1.75mm 1kg PETG 3D Printer Filaments
  2. Select your desired color option from the drop-down:
    • 10x Blue
    • 10x Red
    • 10x Orange
  3. Add to your cart and proceed to checkout
  4. During checkout apply discount code PETGMRS
  5. Your total will be $99.99 with free shipping.
Features:
  • Diameter Format: 1.75mm
  • Print Temp: 220-250℃
  • Tolerance: ±0.02mm
  • Print Speed: 50-100mm/s
  • Platform Temp: Depends on the platform: No need or 60-80℃
  • Packing Size: 209*209*73mm
  • Length: 320m
  • Tensile Strength: 8-14KGF
  • Melt Flow Rate: 6-11g/10min(220℃,2.16kg)

Editor's Notes & Price Research

Written by
  • About this Deal:
    • This price is $150 Lower (60% Savings) than the list price of $249.99.
  • About this Store:

No longer available:

  • 10x White
  • 10x Grey
  • 5x Blue + 5x Red
  • 5x Blue + 5x Orange
  • 5x Red + 5x Orange
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Original Post

Written by
Edited October 25, 2021 at 07:12 AM by
While prices below $10 per 1kg spool for PLA(+) become more and more common, PETG always used to cost a bit more. Now you can get 10 spools of brand name filament from Sunlu for $99.99 with free shipping from their US warehouse.
Use the discount code PETGMRS that's shown in the banner on top of the shop and apply it in the shopping cart or at checkout.

Of course 10 spools are a lot, but if you have multiple printers or can share it with a friend who also has a 3d printer it might be worth to buy the higher quantity at a lower price per spool.

The advantages of PETG over the other types of filament are that there's less shrinking compared to PLA or ABS. PETG also has a higher temperature resistance and is less brittle than PLA but easier to print than ABS, because it's not so prone to warping and doesn't emit toxic fumes while printing. You should have a heated printbed which can go up to 60°C at least for PETG, but that shouldn't be af problem for most printers.

You can find tons of reviews for the Sunlu filament on Amazon, however the price is siginificantly higher there. They claim there's no jamming or bubbles with the filament and the windings aren't tangled.
The diameter is 1.75mm with a tolerance of +/- 0.02mm.
The recommended temperature is 220-250°C for the hotend and 60-80°C for the heated bed. I usually print PETG at 230°C(445°F) / 75°C(167°F).

Currently these colors and some additional combinations are available:
White, grey, blue, red, orange.
Unfortunately black PETG is sold out already.

https://de.sunlu.com/products/10-...0474200150
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10 for $100
$249.99
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I use PETG a lot for mechanical parts. The price is good but it's too much filament for me.
Wish there was more variety in the 10 packs. Max 2 colors is 5 of each is kind of tough unless you are printing a ton of the same color
Glass=flat. Glass!=level.

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#3
I use PETG a lot for mechanical parts. The price is good but it's too much filament for me.
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#4
Wish there was more variety in the 10 packs. Max 2 colors is 5 of each is kind of tough unless you are printing a ton of the same color
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#5
Cannot stand PETG--it just warps and lifts endlessly. Hoping to find some quality PETG, but am doubting I will.
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#6
Quote from fastfxr :
Cannot stand PETG--it just warps and lifts endlessly. Hoping to find some quality PETG, but am doubting I will.
Have you tried using a glue stick and printing larger skirt?
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#7
Quote from fastfxr :
Cannot stand PETG--it just warps and lifts endlessly. Hoping to find some quality PETG, but am doubting I will.
Any drifts will cause your print to lift and wrap, and higher temp materials is more vulnerable than lower temp ones. Since PLA requires lower temp so you will likely not to see wraps on it.

An enclosure can help you to print any materials without wrapping or lifting.

A high quality material may help but I have Prusa PETG which also wraps until I print it in the enclosure
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#8
Quote from fastfxr :
Cannot stand PETG--it just warps and lifts endlessly. Hoping to find some quality PETG, but am doubting I will.
What printer do you have
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#9
Thanks OP. Perfect timing. Christmas is coming up and this will surely allow me to print some decorations that will last longer than ones printed in PLA. I have had mixed results with PETG, but bit the bullet and got all white.
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#10
Quote from fastfxr :
Cannot stand PETG--it just warps and lifts endlessly. Hoping to find some quality PETG, but am doubting I will.
Never had this issue with the black Sunlu PETG I have (haven't tried the blue yet - came as a two pack), though I'm not silly enough to cling to glass print beds. I'll never understand why folks cling to these, all the while using all sorts of adhesives to try to get them to work as print surfaces. I have a PEI coated spring steel sheet and have never had to do anything other than wipe off the dust (and any fingertip oils) and start my prints.
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#11
Quote from michrech :
Never had this issue with the black Sunlu PETG I have (haven't tried the blue yet - came as a two pack), though I'm not silly enough to cling to glass print beds. I'll never understand why folks cling to these, all the while using all sorts of adhesives to try to get them to work as print surfaces. I have a PEI coated spring steel sheet and have never had to do anything other than wipe off the dust (and any fingertip oils) and start my prints.
There are some glass beds with good adhesion, they have some kind of micro structure on the surface that works well at the right temperature. Most of the time when someone is using adhesives the bed is not perfectly leveled, lol.
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Last edited by n0p October 25, 2021 at 05:46 AM. Reason: quoted two times
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#12
Quote from michrech :
Never had this issue with the black Sunlu PETG I have (haven't tried the blue yet - came as a two pack), though I'm not silly enough to cling to glass print beds. I'll never understand why folks cling to these, all the while using all sorts of adhesives to try to get them to work as print surfaces. I have a PEI coated spring steel sheet and have never had to do anything other than wipe off the dust (and any fingertip oils) and start my prints.
I got that deal too! Printing at 233/60 and a slightly higher and faster retraction than usual cured the initial stringing I encountered. Still not the nicest surface finish, but for functional prints it's not worth the time and presumably slower print speed to tune that in. Easily releases from a PEI bed for me too but I use a double shot of hairspray for both adhesion and as sacrificial mold release compound.
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#13
Quote from n0p :
There are some glass beds with good adhesion, they have some kind of micro structure on the surface that works well at the right temperature. Most of the time when someone is using adhesives the bed is not perfectly leveled, lol.
Not perfectly level? I mean it's glass I don't think you can get much more level than glass. so I don't know if the issue everyone is having with glass beds is that they are not leveled, that seems very unlikely.
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Last edited by reicaden October 25, 2021 at 07:28 AM.
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#14
Great now I just need a 3D printer.
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#15
Quote from reicaden :
Not perfectly level I mean it's glass I don't think you can get much more level than glass so I don't know if the issue everyone is having with glass beds is that they are not leveled that seems very unlikely
Glass=flat. Glass!=level.
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