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Husky 1/2" Drive 24" Ratcheting Breaker Bar Expired

$25
$39.97
+ Free Curbside Pickup
+37 Deal Score
25,242 Views
Home Depot has Husky 1/2" Drive 24" Ratcheting Breaker Bar on sale for $24.97. Select free curbside pickup where available.

Thanks to community member tunabreath for posting this deal.

Note: Availability for curbside pickup may vary.

About this product:
  • Break free stubborn or stuck fasteners with high torque 36-tooth design
  • 3-position ratcheting head left, right and locked
  • Chamfered lead-ins help to provide fast and easy placement onto sockets
  • Knurled handle grip provides a non-slip grip
  • 24 in. overall length
  • Meets or exceeds ANSI standards
  • Flex-head rotates 180° for access
  • Call for customer service and support
  • Backed by a lifetime warranty, if your Husky product ever fails, bring it back and we will replace it for free. click here for details.

Editor's Notes & Price Research

Written by
  • About this deal:
    • Limit 5 per order.
    • This deal price is $15 lower (38% savings) than the list price of $39.97
  • Warranty:
    • Backed by a Lifetime Warranty. If your Husky product ever fails, bring it back and they will replace it for free. Click here for details.
  • Product reviews:
    • Rated 4.9 out of 5 stars based on 12 Home Depot customer reviews
  • About this store:
    • Home Depot return policy here
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Original Post

Written by
Edited October 25, 2021 at 10:22 PM by
Home Depot has Husky 1/2 in. Drive 24 in. Ratcheting Breaker Bar for $24.97. Shipping is free. QA Note: OOS for shipping, so store pickup or in store only now

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-i.../315742424
  • Breaker bar with 3-position ratcheting head (left, right, locked)
  • Increased access with 180 degree swivel from flex-head
  • Lifetime Warranty with no questions, no receipt required.
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You only need to turn a breaker bar 1/4 to 1/2 turn to break a bolt or nut free. After that, you use either a power tool or ratchet the rest of the way. To me, the ratcheting function is not needed and looks like it may be the weak point of the tool. I would prefer a breaker bar with as few moving parts as possible, so you could apply maximum torque to what you are removing. If you are pulling as hard as you can and the ratcheting mechanism fails, you may get injured.
·
Extremely rusted/corroded nuts where the threads are exposed (think U-bolts) can fight the whole way they are removed.
·
That's my understanding. For the lug nuts when changing tires. I only ever need it when those jerks at the shop overtighten them.
·

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bill_tong
10-25-2021 at 04:15 PM.
10-25-2021 at 04:15 PM.
Look like the Habor freight version. Anyone know how much torque can be applied to this before the ratcheting head breaks?
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HIDDENguest201110-25-2021 at 04:19 PM.
Joined Jun 2011
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tunabreath
10-25-2021 at 04:30 PM.
10-25-2021 at 04:30 PM.
Quote from bill_tong :
Look like the Habor freight version. Anyone know how much torque can be applied to this before the ratcheting head breaks?
HF version is 18", this is 24". Sorry, no idea on torque before break.
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supersizedkid
10-25-2021 at 04:30 PM.
10-25-2021 at 04:30 PM.
Quote from bill_tong :
Look like the Habor freight version. Anyone know how much torque can be applied to this before the ratcheting head breaks?
The ratcheting breaker bar I see at Harbor Freight is only 18"
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-...67957.html
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KnowsItToBeTrue
10-25-2021 at 04:31 PM.
10-25-2021 at 04:31 PM.
Quote from guest2011 :
what's it good for, wheels? is it still needed if i have an impact wrench which handles anything?

That's my understanding. For the lug nuts when changing tires. I only ever need it when those jerks at the shop overtighten them.
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tunabreath
10-25-2021 at 04:35 PM.
10-25-2021 at 04:35 PM.
Quote from guest2011 :
what's it good for, wheels? is it still needed if i have an impact wrench which handles anything?

If you have an impact wrench then it's not necessary. Situation where this could be beneficial would be extremely torqued bolts that have limited access, possibly a crank pulley bolt on a RWD that is accessed from under hood.
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brian17834
10-25-2021 at 04:39 PM.

Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank brian17834

10-25-2021 at 04:39 PM.
You only need to turn a breaker bar 1/4 to 1/2 turn to break a bolt or nut free. After that, you use either a power tool or ratchet the rest of the way. To me, the ratcheting function is not needed and looks like it may be the weak point of the tool. I would prefer a breaker bar with as few moving parts as possible, so you could apply maximum torque to what you are removing. If you are pulling as hard as you can and the ratcheting mechanism fails, you may get injured.
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tunabreath
10-25-2021 at 04:42 PM.
10-25-2021 at 04:42 PM.
Quote from brian17834 :
You only need to turn a breaker bar 1/4 to 1/2 turn to break a bolt or nut free. After that, you use either a power tool or ratchet the rest of the way. To me, the ratcheting function is not needed and looks like it may be the weak point of the tool. I would prefer a breaker bar with as few moving parts as possible, so you could apply maximum torque to what you are removing. If you are pulling as hard as you can and the ratcheting mechanism fails, you may get injured.
Extremely rusted/corroded nuts where the threads are exposed (think U-bolts) can fight the whole way they are removed.
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MitchellB8454
10-25-2021 at 04:58 PM.
10-25-2021 at 04:58 PM.
Quote from tunabreath :
If you have an impact wrench then it's not necessary. Situation where this could be beneficial would be extremely torqued bolts that have limited access, possibly a crank pulley bolt on a RWD that is accessed from under hood.

Exactly this. I have a regular (non-ratcheting) breaker bar that I keep around for this. GM LS crank bolts to be specific. A ratcheting version seems like it would narrow the uses down even more if you already have impacts. Not sure I would trust something like this in high torque situations.
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MichaelL3992
10-25-2021 at 05:58 PM.
10-25-2021 at 05:58 PM.
Quote from Felon :
That's my understanding. For the lug nuts when changing tires. I only ever need it when those jerks at the shop overtighten them.

Also good to break lose a stuck oil pan plug screwed in too tight. Especially when you are under the car with little room to maneuver. I have the HF 3/8 break bar...and it is very useful
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Joined May 2013
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lxc1227
10-25-2021 at 06:32 PM.
10-25-2021 at 06:32 PM.
When removing suspension bolts and nuts, I sometimes find shorter breaker bar (with a short pipe) more maneuverable inside the wheel well. 24" is good for wheel and axle nuts.
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denzeler27
10-25-2021 at 07:53 PM.
10-25-2021 at 07:53 PM.
Quote from bill_tong :
Look like the Habor freight version. Anyone know how much torque can be applied to this before the ratcheting head breaks?
I am pretty sure a majority (if not all) of these breakers bars are made in the same factory. I have one made by Oreilly brand Power Torque that looks identical to this one down to the location of the brand stamp. That being said my best guess would be that these can handle somewhere around the 200 mark max, my breaker bar copy to this one is not ratchet style(because it's a useless feature) but the 180 degree end starts bending around the 180 ft lb mark on automotive applications. Has not broke yet but makes me feel pretty uncomfortable about using it on anything torqued even higher. As others mentioned the ratcheting aspect probably makes it weaker so my educated guess is no more than 200, most likely less to be honest.
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tdicola
10-25-2021 at 08:53 PM.
10-25-2021 at 08:53 PM.
Quote from guest2011 :
what's it good for, wheels? is it still needed if i have an impact wrench which handles anything?
A giant breaker bar is never a bad idea to have on hand. On a few occasions I've run into bolts lthat won't budge from impacts, even air powered ones. But get a big breaker bar on and really put your back into it and off they come. I'm yet to run into a bolt that my cheapo 25" harbor freight bar won't pull off.
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