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Look at the height charts and get the sized bike appropriate for your height. It makes all the difference in the world, including how much joy it is to ride, how much control you have, and how efficient your efforts result.
I can get to most places within a 5 mile radius using 95% residential streets. I achieved this by studying google maps.
Riding a bike is extremely dangerous. You are 4th priority to drivers since hitting you will not a fatality to a car driver.
Dispite crosswalks, intersections are the most dangerous place to be. about 1/3 of all bike accidents happen at intersections even though 95%ish riding is done away from intersections. Just because the 'walk' sign comes up doesn't mean the guy in the right lane isn't going to turn right in to you. Walk doesnt mean start walking instantly. Thats the exact timing you will get hit.
Here's how you cheat at intersections. Never be in a hurry, be in an anti-hurry (all the time in the world state of mind). Alwasy use the cross walk button, only go when 'walk'. Look many places before you start walking and learn to use hand signals like SWAT agents do to communicate with cars. Like point at the display showing it says walk and wait till they heed. But at same time thinking you have no plans to take your right of way unless satisfied.
A few tips.
Get this: I'm a serious rider, but ride a hybred bike, not a $$$$ roadbike. I'm also not in the street person with a bike class. Since I have 6 low cost bikes I can ride and park most places using a somewhat-chunky long U-Lock. Somehow I've never got my bike stolen yet. It's mostly because my bikes look completely 'common' grade, and a medium-large u-lock makes it not worth it. I have a long u-lock (15" I think) that lets me lock in almost every place.
My 'two-cents' I'll say, but all the info I said is really goood.
Riding a bike/ebike/electric scooter/etc. on surface streets is truly hair raising. I do not need gambling, rollercoasters, etc. because having a 3 ton truck pass within ~2 inches of your handlebar when you are all the way over is all the danger one needs for a long, long time. Some countries and some cities have much better infrastructure, but you still at risk of hitting idiot pedestrians or cyclists. Other cyclists, who are disproportionately drunks and/or drug addicts in any urban or near urban area, are extremely dangerous as well. And you're right about being extremely careful about not being annihilated by a motorist doing a right turn on a red, it's appalling how people will roll through a red when there are obviously pedestrians/cyclists who have the light and are attempting to cross.
Oh well.
The steel frame and cruiser frame make me wonder if this could be a good bottom barrel Ebike conversion. Stronger than aluminum and a big void in the middle for electronic bits and bobs.
I've had a few of these Walmart beach cruisers over the years. They will not hold up in a true beach environment. Everything on it that can rust, will rust. The cranksets are garbage. I bought a Fuji beach cruiser used and I leave outside, uncovered at our beach house. After 7 years, it's still going strong.
Is there a weight limit on the men's bike? Will hopefully lose some weight before it's warm enough outside to ride this, but would like to know regardless. Thank you in advance!
Is there a weight limit on the men's bike? Will hopefully lose some weight before it's warm enough outside to ride this, but would like to know regardless. Thank you in advance!
Good question. Most cheap bikes I've seen listed are 250-300 pounds. It is a steel frame, with fatter tires so you should be fine.
Just make sure your tire pressure is correct.
I bought a Kent Hybrid 7-speed at Walmart for about 140 last year. It met expectations. The chain slips off the gears once in a while so if a cruiser is single speed that's one less thing that can go wrong - if you live in flat land this will probably be an adequate bike.
Cruisers are just crap compared to hybrid bikes
Basically, a mountain bike with seat with springs, and handlebar that's raise is just much more comfortable than this.
I'm ignorant on bikes. Is beach cruiser just a fancy name for cruiser bike? Or is it specifically for sandy trails?
Beach cruisers are often built "slightly" more resistant to the beach environment. Tires/paint/splash guards. How we you are right... Time has just simply merged them together and the two became one
Whats up with bikes without brakes here in America?
? Poser fixie single speed riders from 15 years ago? This bike has coaster brakes. Wouldn't think it's even legal to sell a bike off the shelf without brakes.
I generally want a real shop-bike for my own use and I do pretty much every kind of work there is to be done on a bike. I haven't made my own derailer stack - I generally prefer gear-hubs, but I'm not afraid to tackle that. I've made my own bike from a bare frame up and I lace my own wheels.
I am not however so snobby I completely dismiss department store bikes. My daughter's bike is a department store bike, that I rebuilt the back wheel changing it from a derailer to a gear-hub because it had a broken spoke and I couldn't remove the factory gear cluster without completely destroying it. Screw that.
If you're going to go department store something like this is your best bet.
The dangerous part of riding a department store bike usually comes from crappy brake and shifting devices. The frames are generally strong enough to not be dangerous (just make sure you're well adjusted, especially around the headset and handle-bars). Sure, they tend to be heavier than their shop counter parts, but the price difference is what you're after there. Usually the chains are on-par with their shop counter parts. Sure you'll probably have a Chinese brand on the department store bike, but you might have that on a shop bike in in real world tests you're not likely to notice a difference.
I've put well over 1,000 miles on pro level tires. I have worn a department store tire down to threads in a week. The thing is that was in the 1990's. In general the quality of department store bikes is much better these days. The 1990's (or late 80's) Wal-Mart bike I had a kid had cheap stamped steel everything and yes, I wound up face first on the pavement when some of it failed suddenly, more than once. In the modern day department store bikes tend to have at least name brand parts on them, even if they are the very bottom of the line from the manufacturers. In this case you don't even have to worry about that. I figure if you're shopping for a bike like this you probably won't put a 1,000 miles on it the entire time you own it. I've put over 1,000 miles on a BMX.
In my opinion anything that gets someone pedaling is a good thing. If you're on a budget, something like this will get you pedaling. If you decide to go hard-core, go get something else and keep this as a "guest bike" for riding the park path or seawall.
I would still encourage checking OfferUp or something like that for your area to see if there's a better deal on a used shop bike, but if you're in a hurry, yeah, go for it.
? Poser fixie single speed riders from 15 years ago? This bike has coaster brakes. Wouldn't think it's even legal to sell a bike off the shelf without brakes.
Yeah, even the hard-core BMX sites that sell BMX's that are intended to be brakeless usually put a single-side pull "1999 style" brake on there so the user can remove it after for legal reasons.
I'm too old to want in on the brake-less thing and will make efforts to keep my kids from discovering the trend. I still dirt BMX a little even though I'm in my mid 40's, but since I started in the 80's I'm on the detangler with both front and rear brakes bandwagon, even if I am into modern micro-gearing and modern U or V brakes.
Yeah, even the hard-core BMX sites that sell BMX's that are intended to be brakeless usually put a single-side pull "1999 style" brake on there so the user can remove it after for legal reasons.
I'm too old to want in on the brake-less thing and will make efforts to keep my kids from discovering the trend. I still dirt BMX a little even though I'm in my mid 40's, but since I started in the 80's I'm on the detangler with both front and rear brakes bandwagon, even if I am into modern micro-gearing and modern U or V brakes.
Yup. I don't get it. Have ridden cantilevers, V-brakes, old Maguras, and now modern discs.
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If you're tall get the silver one. If you're shorter, or just don't want to swing your leg over the frame, get the blue step-through one.
Mens or womens, who cares? Go to the store and pick up the one that you're most comfortable with regardless of what chromosomes you happen to have.
Brickseek silver: https://brickseek.com/walmart-inv...=76025679
Brickseek blue: https://brickseek.com/walmart-inv...=90197628
Edited to fix link, thanks SplendidApple
It was $68 before pandemic
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I can get to most places within a 5 mile radius using 95% residential streets. I achieved this by studying google maps.
Riding a bike is extremely dangerous. You are 4th priority to drivers since hitting you will not a fatality to a car driver.
Dispite crosswalks, intersections are the most dangerous place to be. about 1/3 of all bike accidents happen at intersections even though 95%ish riding is done away from intersections. Just because the 'walk' sign comes up doesn't mean the guy in the right lane isn't going to turn right in to you. Walk doesnt mean start walking instantly. Thats the exact timing you will get hit.
Here's how you cheat at intersections. Never be in a hurry, be in an anti-hurry (all the time in the world state of mind). Alwasy use the cross walk button, only go when 'walk'. Look many places before you start walking and learn to use hand signals like SWAT agents do to communicate with cars. Like point at the display showing it says walk and wait till they heed. But at same time thinking you have no plans to take your right of way unless satisfied.
A few tips.
Get this: I'm a serious rider, but ride a hybred bike, not a $$$$ roadbike. I'm also not in the street person with a bike class. Since I have 6 low cost bikes I can ride and park most places using a somewhat-chunky long U-Lock. Somehow I've never got my bike stolen yet. It's mostly because my bikes look completely 'common' grade, and a medium-large u-lock makes it not worth it. I have a long u-lock (15" I think) that lets me lock in almost every place.
My 'two-cents' I'll say, but all the info I said is really goood.
Oh well.
The steel frame and cruiser frame make me wonder if this could be a good bottom barrel Ebike conversion. Stronger than aluminum and a big void in the middle for electronic bits and bobs.
Just make sure your tire pressure is correct.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Basically, a mountain bike with seat with springs, and handlebar that's raise is just much more comfortable than this.
Beach cruisers are often built "slightly" more resistant to the beach environment. Tires/paint/splash guards. How we you are right... Time has just simply merged them together and the two became one
I generally want a real shop-bike for my own use and I do pretty much every kind of work there is to be done on a bike. I haven't made my own derailer stack - I generally prefer gear-hubs, but I'm not afraid to tackle that. I've made my own bike from a bare frame up and I lace my own wheels.
I am not however so snobby I completely dismiss department store bikes. My daughter's bike is a department store bike, that I rebuilt the back wheel changing it from a derailer to a gear-hub because it had a broken spoke and I couldn't remove the factory gear cluster without completely destroying it. Screw that.
If you're going to go department store something like this is your best bet.
The dangerous part of riding a department store bike usually comes from crappy brake and shifting devices. The frames are generally strong enough to not be dangerous (just make sure you're well adjusted, especially around the headset and handle-bars). Sure, they tend to be heavier than their shop counter parts, but the price difference is what you're after there. Usually the chains are on-par with their shop counter parts. Sure you'll probably have a Chinese brand on the department store bike, but you might have that on a shop bike in in real world tests you're not likely to notice a difference.
I've put well over 1,000 miles on pro level tires. I have worn a department store tire down to threads in a week. The thing is that was in the 1990's. In general the quality of department store bikes is much better these days. The 1990's (or late 80's) Wal-Mart bike I had a kid had cheap stamped steel everything and yes, I wound up face first on the pavement when some of it failed suddenly, more than once. In the modern day department store bikes tend to have at least name brand parts on them, even if they are the very bottom of the line from the manufacturers. In this case you don't even have to worry about that. I figure if you're shopping for a bike like this you probably won't put a 1,000 miles on it the entire time you own it. I've put over 1,000 miles on a BMX.
In my opinion anything that gets someone pedaling is a good thing. If you're on a budget, something like this will get you pedaling. If you decide to go hard-core, go get something else and keep this as a "guest bike" for riding the park path or seawall.
I would still encourage checking OfferUp or something like that for your area to see if there's a better deal on a used shop bike, but if you're in a hurry, yeah, go for it.
I'm too old to want in on the brake-less thing and will make efforts to keep my kids from discovering the trend. I still dirt BMX a little even though I'm in my mid 40's, but since I started in the 80's I'm on the detangler with both front and rear brakes bandwagon, even if I am into modern micro-gearing and modern U or V brakes.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I'm too old to want in on the brake-less thing and will make efforts to keep my kids from discovering the trend. I still dirt BMX a little even though I'm in my mid 40's, but since I started in the 80's I'm on the detangler with both front and rear brakes bandwagon, even if I am into modern micro-gearing and modern U or V brakes.