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The Smartest House: Select Zooz Z-Wave Products: Dimmer, Remote Switch Expired

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The Smartest House is hosting their Winter Sale on select Zooz Z-Wave Devices on sale listed below. Shipping starts at ~$5.85 (via USPS first class service), otherwise, free shipping on orders $99 or more.

Thanks community member spentnickles & bugzpodder [Discuss] for sharing this deal

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Edited January 19, 2022 at 10:30 PM by
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/...-sale-2022

Multiple devices and types of ZWave / Zigbee switches, plugs, and sensors.

One of the best deals on the page - $18.95 + shipping under $100.
I own several of these and they work very very well:
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/...ry-powered
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Good deals there. Zooz is becoming my favorite Smarthome brand and TheSmartestHouse is pretty reliable as well. I live about 30 minutes from them and always get my shipments the next day.
The difference is with how the 3 way is wired. I experienced this with the 72. If the remote switch is all hot, you need 77.

the location where the 77 will be needs neutral and that is the only additional wiring needed. the remote switch wiring remains same.

zooz is an excellent company. they answered support over weekend. When it was known I needed the 77, they said wait for the sale.

Great people make a great company.

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Horace
01-24-2022 at 11:55 AM.
01-24-2022 at 11:55 AM.
Quote from alexwbush :
If I redo all the switches in my house, I'm likely going for the Lutron Caseta switches. Everything I've read is these are the gold standard -- all be it expensive!
Many people are happy with their Caseta setup, but there are a few pitfalls:
  1. Lutron and the associated "Clear Connect" wireless is a closed ecosystem unlike Zwave, Zigbee, and most of the other IOT wireless technologies. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it will severely limit your selection of devices if you venture outside of their light switches and remotes. Aside from light switches and remotes, Caseta only has ONE repeater and TWO smart plug options, while Zwave has literally hundreds, if not thousands of options in virtually every IOT category.
  2. Every non-emergency, mains-powered Zwave device acts as a repeater for a true mesh network. Lutron is more of a hub-and-spoke setup, with an artificial 75 device cap per hub. You can add a repeater and/or a second hub for more devices or better coverage, but it could still be problematic for reaching edge devices.
  3. More of preference thing, but the Lutron switches are what they are. Whether you love them or hate them, they all look the same, and you don't have any other aesthetic options in the Lutron line.
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alexwbush
01-24-2022 at 11:58 AM.
01-24-2022 at 11:58 AM.
Quote from Horace :
Many people are happy with their Caseta setup, but there are a few pitfalls:
  1. Lutron and the associated "Clear Connect" wireless is a closed ecosystem unlike Zwave, Zigbee, and most of the other IOT wireless technologies. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it will severely limit your selection of devices if you venture outside of their light switches and remotes. Aside from light switches and remotes, Caseta only has ONE repeater and TWO smart plug options, while Zwave has literally hundreds, if not thousands of options in virtually every IOT category.
  2. Every non-emergency, mains-powered Zwave device acts as a repeater for a true mesh network. Lutron is more of a hub-and-spoke setup, with an artificial 75 device cap per hub. You can add a repeater and/or a second hub for more devices or better coverage, but it could still be problematic for reaching edge devices.
  3. More of preference thing, but the Lutron switches are what they are. Whether you love them or hate them, they all look the same, and you don't have any other aesthetic options in the Lutron line.

As long as it works with Home Assistant, I don't think "closed ecosystem" is an issue
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chippy111
01-24-2022 at 12:01 PM.
01-24-2022 at 12:01 PM.
Quote from SkillfulBike1872 :
Zooz has been extremely reliable for me and while their prices are typically a little higher than a lot of generic brands you'll find, for me it's worth the extra money I've paid. Definitely jumping on a few of these deals.
Good luck finding a GE branded switch for close to $20. Maybe the add on switch.

But that's what makes zooz even better. No need for a companion switch in a 3 way set up. In addition, if you get the proper switch (Zen 76/77, Zen 26/27, etc) you don't even need to require the companion. Great cost AND time saver.

Also, after many power outages that have claimed GE / Honeywell / Jaisco switches, I've never had a zooz switch die.

Cost, Time, and reliability. They win on all 3.
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Horace
01-24-2022 at 12:05 PM.
01-24-2022 at 12:05 PM.
Quote from TenderHalibut2061 :
Looking to outfit my new (old) house with Z-wave stuff powered by Hubitat and Google Home. Was checking out Inovelli for paddle switches, which are a bit more expensive. How does Zooz compare?
Inovelli are typically a bit more expensive, but have (arguably) better build quality and a few more quality of life features. That said, if you're planning for an immediate install, check stock on the Inovelli stuff. Most are completely out of stock for 2022, with no in-stock ETAs. While I really appreciate Eric's transparency with their customer base, it does not look good [inovelli.com] for getting any Inovelli stuff anytime soon.

Lack of stock has been the main reason why I've gone with mostly Zooz stuff over Inovelli. I've had no issues, and their CS has been responsive when needed.
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Horace
01-24-2022 at 12:21 PM.
01-24-2022 at 12:21 PM.
Quote from alexwbush :
As long as it works with Home Assistant, I don't think "closed ecosystem" is an issue
I mainly just meant that you are severely limited in your selection of devices within the Caseta ecosystem. Not everyone is willing to run 2+ separate hubs/antennas and a full blown HA instance. Caseta is definitely a compelling (albeit expensive) option if you're only using it for lights though!
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Last edited by Horace January 24, 2022 at 12:44 PM.
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chippy111
01-24-2022 at 02:49 PM.
01-24-2022 at 02:49 PM.
Quote from Horace :
Inovelli are typically a bit more expensive, but have (arguably) better build quality and a few more quality of life features. That said, if you're planning for an immediate install, check stock on the Inovelli stuff. Most are completely out of stock for 2022, with no in-stock ETAs. While I really appreciate Eric's transparency with their customer base, it does not look good [inovelli.com] for getting any Inovelli stuff anytime soon.

Lack of stock has been the main reason why I've gone with mostly Zooz stuff over Inovelli. I've had no issues, and their CS has been responsive when needed.
I second this.

I have multiple applications where I wanted to use Innoveli.
1.) Their dimmer + fan control
2.) Their scene control switch

Both seem to be unparalleled in the zwave space.

I have the Zooz scene control switch but it isn't a dimmer. This was a compromise for me as the Innoveli hadn't been released yet and was in beta. Then came the supply chain mess. Oh well. The Zen 32 is good. I've put it in places I don't have to have a dimmer.

I also have dummy fan + dimmer switches controlling bedroom fan + lights. I was going to get the zooz switch + fan control. However, I wanted dimmers in the rooms with said switch. Also the Zen30 also only allows the fan to turn on/off. Deal breaker. So I just went with what is essentially an in wall remote controller for the fan + lights. I'll wait for Innoveli to get stock again.... if they can survive. Fingers crossed.

All that being said, Zooz switches are great and I have no complaints. Miles better than any other option right now sans Innoveli. They have stock (YEAH!). And they've continued w/ their sales that seem to always be around major holidays. From a value proposition they seem to be the best option around.
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bonkman
01-24-2022 at 06:36 PM.
01-24-2022 at 06:36 PM.
Quote from chippy111 :
Good luck finding a GE branded switch for close to $20. Maybe the add on switch.
Here you go. [amazon.com] For some reason, the light commercial/residential switch is cheaper than the resi only.
Quote :
But that's what makes zooz even better. No need for a companion switch in a 3 way set up. In addition, if you get the proper switch (Zen 76/77, Zen 26/27, etc) you don't even need to require the companion. Great cost AND time saver.

Also, after many power outages that have claimed GE / Honeywell / Jaisco switches, I've never had a zooz switch die.

Cost, Time, and reliability. They win on all 3.
I'm hoping that the Zooz (coming tomorrow!) is good. I need two of the Enbrighten switches because one controls an outlet and the other is for my bathroom fan. Zooz says both are off-limits. However, the enbrighten switch I have wired up to the outlet right now is weird. Single button pushes take 3s to register. However, double taps and holds take half that time. Customer support blamed hubitat but that's clearly BS. I'm planning to try a custom driver from the hubitat community in hopes it fixes the issue.
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Horace
01-24-2022 at 06:52 PM.
01-24-2022 at 06:52 PM.
Quote from bonkman :
Here you go. [amazon.com] For some reason, the light commercial/residential switch is cheaper than the resi only.
$27 is much closer to $30 than $20, and not many people still use toggle style switches over the Decora paddle standard. By comparison, a similar Zooz ZEN73 toggle is only $22.
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bonkman
01-24-2022 at 07:04 PM.
01-24-2022 at 07:04 PM.
Quote from Horace :
$27 is much closer to $30 than $20, and not many people still use toggle style switches over the Decora paddle standard. By comparison, a similar Zooz ZEN73 toggle is only $22.
This is true. However, most people have prime, so shipping's free, vs needing to order $100 from Smartesthome. I only know about the price of toggle switches because that's what's in my house Smilie

Please note, I'm not trying to convert anyone from Zooz to Enbrighten. As I said, I'm not particularly impressed with my Enbrighten switch and Zooz is the only one that doesn't require add-ons for 3way/4way like I have in my foyer.. I'm just answering the 20ish dollar challenge (plus shipping!)
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plasmoidia
01-24-2022 at 10:49 PM.
01-24-2022 at 10:49 PM.
Okay, so I have been looking at these since the price is great with the sale. I have a SmartThings hub and have thus far only used GE/Jasco switches (older models, which have all worked fine for me). One thing that caught me off-guard was that most say they cannot be used with a fan. I did find the 71 model that says it can be used with a fan that is 3A max and less than 5 years old. The two fans I have left to wire up are under 3 years old but I cannot find a current rating for them. Only thing I have found is a spec on Lowe's website which says "High Speed Electricity Use" is 54W, which is under 0.5A. I was initially skeptical, but several results in Google say that 0.5-1A motors is typical. So I guess my fans qualify. The 5 years qualification still seems odd to me. Should I be worried in a few years once they exceed the 5 year mark? If it really is only 0.5A, that seems sufficiently under the 3A max even if the motor gets way less efficient as it ages.

Along those lines, should I get all 71s? Or just 71s for the fans and 76s for the lights? Is there a specific benefit to the 76 for simple 2-way lights? I have only ever done on/off switches due to the fact that for the GE switches, dimmers were always quite a bit more expensive (in addition to needing more expensive dimmable LED bulbs). For only $1 more for a dimmer, I might consider getting some. Need to think on where dimming might be useful.

I might also have to consider picking up an RGBW controller for $32 to connect to the LEDs I put behind my TV. We don't really use them since turning them on/off requires a separate IR remote. Could be fun Smilie
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bonkman
01-25-2022 at 09:14 AM.
01-25-2022 at 09:14 AM.
Quote from plasmoidia :
Okay, so I have been looking at these since the price is great with the sale. I have a SmartThings hub and have thus far only used GE/Jasco switches (older models, which have all worked fine for me). One thing that caught me off-guard was that most say they cannot be used with a fan. I did find the 71 model that says it can be used with a fan that is 3A max and less than 5 years old. The two fans I have left to wire up are under 3 years old but I cannot find a current rating for them. Only thing I have found is a spec on Lowe's website which says "High Speed Electricity Use" is 54W, which is under 0.5A. I was initially skeptical, but several results in Google say that 0.5-1A motors is typical. So I guess my fans qualify. The 5 years qualification still seems odd to me. Should I be worried in a few years once they exceed the 5 year mark? If it really is only 0.5A, that seems sufficiently under the 3A max even if the motor gets way less efficient as it ages.

Along those lines, should I get all 71s? Or just 71s for the fans and 76s for the lights? Is there a specific benefit to the 76 for simple 2-way lights? I have only ever done on/off switches due to the fact that for the GE switches, dimmers were always quite a bit more expensive (in addition to needing more expensive dimmable LED bulbs). For only $1 more for a dimmer, I might consider getting some. Need to think on where dimming might be useful.

I might also have to consider picking up an RGBW controller for $32 to connect to the LEDs I put behind my TV. We don't really use them since turning them on/off requires a separate IR remote. Could be fun Smilie
You MIGHT be ok with the fan...but you might not -- and definitely don't use a dimmer. The issue is with the load. As you might remember from HS physics, more voltage causes more current. (Things change for AC vs DC, but it's similar enough.) Thus, if you want to decrease current, you usually add resistors, wasting energy as heat. However, that reduces the power available to the motor running the fan, which is just wasteful. As such, fans don't usually have resistance in their circuit. So why don't they immediately start a fire (because it's essentially a short circuit and thus really hot)? The spinning of the fan introduces back-EMF, which effectively acts like resistance. (Faraday's Law of Induction). The faster it spins, the more "resistance" is provided, which protects the circuit. (This is why your drill burns out if you run it while the bit is stuck.)

The issue is that when you start the fan, you're temporarily turning on a short circuit (before the fan starts spinning and generating back-EMF). Even though it's only a short amount of time, the large amount of current draw can damage the switch. This wasn't an issue for dumb switches, since there were no sensitive electronic components.

Modern circuit boards are often designed to alleviate some of this crank and/or have a different style motor, which is probably why they specify using newer fans. It doesn't have to do with the age of the fan itself, just the design, so 5 years from now, you should still be fine.
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Horace
01-25-2022 at 04:31 PM.
01-25-2022 at 04:31 PM.
Quote from plasmoidia :
One thing that caught me off-guard was that most say they cannot be used with a fan. I did find the 71 model that says it can be used with a fan that is 3A max and less than 5 years old. The two fans I have left to wire up are under 3 years old but I cannot find a current rating for them. Only thing I have found is a spec on Lowe's website which says "High Speed Electricity Use" is 54W, which is under 0.5A. I was initially skeptical, but several results in Google say that 0.5-1A motors is typical. So I guess my fans qualify. The 5 years qualification still seems odd to me. Should I be worried in a few years once they exceed the 5 year mark? If it really is only 0.5A, that seems sufficiently under the 3A max even if the motor gets way less efficient as it ages.
It's not about the age of the fan, it's more a generalized estimate about the technology used to make it. Think of it this way: Before 1998 (24 years ago), airbags were not required in cars, and often were not equipped. That doesn't mean that a car built last year will suddenly lose its airbags once it reaches 25 years old; just that as of today, any cars over 24 years old may not be equipped with airbags.

Same goes for fans. As technology advances, most 'modern' fans will have soft-start circuitry to minimize inrush current, and be built in an efficient way to keep running current low, allowing us to use lower spec'd switches and wiring. Zooz made a generalization that most fans that are under 5years old will fall into the sub 3A category. It's not a hard rule, just an estimate. If you want to be safe, just check the specs on the fan and the switch to make sure everything will work together.

As for the Zooz switch selection, the ZEN71 and older ZEN21 should work for fans as long as they don't exceed the load limitations; basically on-off switches WITHOUT accommodations for traveler wire 3-way setups will work. (Dimmers like the 22/72 and 27/77 definitely won't work, and on-off switches with direct 3-way wiring like the 26/76 are probably not advised.)

From Zooz: "The short story is that the S2 switches are much more flexible and easier to install in multi-point control circuits (you just need to replace the switch with direct connection to power and neutral with a Zooz switch and you're done). But since they use 2 travelers, there wasn't enough space to make them as powerful as the ZEN21."

Although not on sale, the ZEN30 is another option, as it has two outputs; a dimmer for lights, and an on-off relay for a fan. The ZEN32 is also a valid option, and forgoes the light output of the ZEN30 for a 4-button scene controller.
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bonkman
01-26-2022 at 05:43 AM.
01-26-2022 at 05:43 AM.
Quote from Horace :
It's not about the age of the fan, it's more a generalized estimate about the technology used to make it. Think of it this way: Before 1998 (24 years ago), airbags were not required in cars, and often were not equipped. That doesn't mean that a car built last year will suddenly lose its airbags once it reaches 25 years old; just that as of today, any cars over 24 years old may not be equipped with airbags.

Same goes for fans. As technology advances, most 'modern' fans will have soft-start circuitry to minimize inrush current, and be built in an efficient way to keep running current low, allowing us to use lower spec'd switches and wiring. Zooz made a generalization that most fans that are under 5years old will fall into the sub 3A category. It's not a hard rule, just an estimate. If you want to be safe, just check the specs on the fan and the switch to make sure everything will work together.

As for the Zooz switch selection, the ZEN71 and older ZEN21 should work for fans as long as they don't exceed the load limitations; basically on-off switches WITHOUT accommodations for traveler wire 3-way setups will work. (Dimmers like the 22/72 and 27/77 definitely won't work, and on-off switches with direct 3-way wiring like the 26/76 are probably not advised.)

From Zooz: "The short story is that the S2 switches are much more flexible and easier to install in multi-point control circuits (you just need to replace the switch with direct connection to power and neutral with a Zooz switch and you're done). But since they use 2 travelers, there wasn't enough space to make them as powerful as the ZEN21."

Although not on sale, the ZEN30 is another option, as it has two outputs; a dimmer for lights, and an on-off relay for a fan. The ZEN32 is also a valid option, and forgoes the light output of the ZEN30 for a 4-button scene controller.
Iagree well said.

FWIW, that $22 Zooz toggle dimmer switch is a hell of a lot better than that $27 enbrighten toggle I posted, other than the limitation that it's lights-only. Lights turn on instantly.
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elite-fusion
01-26-2022 at 06:44 PM.
01-26-2022 at 06:44 PM.
So the battery powered switch looks cool to avoid cutting a whole in the wall. Question though, what is needed at the ceiling light to allow it to be controlled by the wireless switch?
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elite-fusion
01-26-2022 at 06:45 PM.
01-26-2022 at 06:45 PM.
Also, how do these compare to homeseer because i have a bunch of those installed already
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