expired Posted by sikwit • Jan 29, 2022
Jan 29, 2022 1:43 AM
Item 1 of 1
expired Posted by sikwit • Jan 29, 2022
Jan 29, 2022 1:43 AM
Pulsar 2300W Parallel Ready Portable Gasoline Inverter Generator
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$540
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I purchased three of the PG2300is for neighbors on the $280 deal and set them up. Starts first pull. These run smooth, idle down as they should at reduced load but I haven't been able to stress test them.
59db: no way but much quieter than a conventional
Vietnam: All of this style come out of the same factory in Vietnam. The access cover and fuel cap fit my Westinghouse igen2500 which is also made in Vietnam. The quality and style of assembly looks the same from what is visible from the access but this does not speak to the quality of components spec'd by Pulsar vs Westinghouse.
Engine size: I strongly recommend paying attention to the engine size in generators as the most important specification. A larger engine has more power to prevent stalling and damaging surge when a compressor kicks in. The 2200 running watt models are worth the extra money for sure imo. Even though the deal gen is rated at 1800 running watts keep in mind that this is for intermittent operation at sea level and at 70F. Much less if operated above that. For continuous operation in hot weather cut the "running watt" capacity in half.
But its not dual fuel!
DF is not worth the large extra cost on these hand carry igens imo. Too much power loss when switched over to LP. Besides these sip gasoline which packs more power. Two gallons should get you through the day. LP operation shortens engine life. Dual fuel makes more sense on a conventional 5k running watt or better especially if you have a 250 gallon tank. Having both types offers the best in security and convenience. Properly store your igen and it will always be ready without fuel system issues.
Shut down and storage over one month: EZ instructions takes 10 minutes:
Forget the advice of using fuel stabilizer. All of these Vietnam igens that I have seen have a float bowl drain. After use pull the access cover for the engine oil and pull out the 1/8" diameter clear plastic tube. Make sure the fuel tap is shut off. Turn the drain screw on the carburetor float bowl to drain the ounce of fuel in it. Simply running the engine dry isn't enough. Next siphon any remaining fuel out of the tank. Finally, open the petcock again to allow any remaining fuel to drain completely out of the generator with a bit of side to side tipping. As an extra step you can leave the cap off and let it air dry before replacing for storage. Engine oil should be drained while the engine is still hot prior to the the above procedure. It is a tiny amount 500 cc or so. Drain out the filler by tipping and replace with clean oil. Saving the included oil bottle and funnel makes refilling a breeze. Store gen inside your home to prevent condensation and critter damage, there will be no fumes.
Fuel cap vent: Pulsars employ a manually operated vent in the fuel cap. Make sure it is open before starting the engine or it will shut down shortly thereafter,
CO sensor: There is a big push to require CO sensor on all portable generators. Home Depot has already stated that they intend to phase out sales of models w/o. This pushes up the cost and can not save the lives of pp who put the gen too close to the house not mindful of the direction of the exhaust as they might do in bad weather if they lack a rain shelter. CO sensor auto-shut down can be a PITA. Better to insure that you have CO sensors in the living space and that they are tested prior to generator operation.
CARB: Californians should buy their gen sooner than later. Air resources board thinks everyone should have batteries instead.
i used an interlock kit so i could power my entire panel (all 120V circuits, not at the same time obviously), just for convenience sake. an interlock prevents you from operating the generator with the main circuit on, thus preventing back feeding your panel by accident. Back feeding is when your generator sends electricity back to the outside lines b/c someone forgot to turn the main circuit breaker off. this mistake could (and has) injure or kill a line worker who is out there making repairs. direct feeding a panel without interlock or transfer switch sub panel is illegal due t potential for back feeding. here are some steps regarding interlock. as always, check your local codes for adherence to regulation.
Step 1: Find an interlock kit that's compatible with your panel. Chances are the model in HD/Lowe's will not fit your. You can buy them here https://www.geninterloc
Step 2: Buy a double pole breaker that's compatible with your electrical box. Home Depot or your local electric supply house will have this.
Step 3: Buy generator inlet: http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-PB30-Generator-Generators/dp/B000BQT47S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&q... [amazon.com]
Step 4: Buy L14-30 to L5-30 adapter cable where both hots are crossed so you can power BOTH sides of your panel even though you have a 120V generator: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/...ge_o02_s00 . You could make your own cable for $10, but it's nice to have a factory molded rugged cable that you don't have to worry about. One end of this cable will go into the L14-30 inlet in #3 and the other end gives you a L5-30 connection. See step 5.
Step 5: Buy a 25ft or 50ft L5-30 extension cord (length is up to you). This cord is what will go from your adapter in your inlet in Step 3 to your generator. I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-20571-Generator-Extension-Eextension/dp/B003HUYK5Q/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8... [amazon.com] . The reason why I am suggesting that you buy the L5-30 cord instead of a regular 5-15 cord + L5-30 to 5-15 adapter, is to future proof your setup should you ever decide to buy a 2nd Inverter generator and use the parallel kit (which has a L5-30 plug for 3000W output power), it's up to you really and what you think you generator power needs might be in the future. if you only plan on using single 120V inverter gens like this (1 of them), save the money
Step 6: Buy L5-30 to 5-15 adapter plug which goes into the generator if you want to run directly from a single generator and not the parallel kit (you should have the option of doing both, as a fall back, so you aren't forcing yourself to run both): http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Locking-Adapter-Female-Connector/dp/B002YB108Y/ref=sr_1_5?tag=slickdea... [amazon.com]
Step 7: Either do it yourself per the Youtube videos or pay an electrician. You can buy the rest of the materials at Home Depot (romex, wall anchors, conduit, etc). Since you are providing all materials or most of them, the electrician should only be charging you a labor rate. This job should not take longer than 2 hours. If you are running across long distances or through thick masonry...ok add an hour. You should not have to pay more than 2-3 labor hrs for this job. If you want to save money, you can do all of the labor intensive work of mounting the inlet, running the conduit, and running the romex...then all he has to do is install the interlock panel, the double pole breaker for the generator, and make the final connection to your box. Figure he'll charge you (1) labor hour to do all of that. if you have never done anything electrical before, just hire the electrician for peace of mind.
NOTE 1: You will not be able to power any 240V appliances with this generator.Turn OFF all 240V circuits (except the double pole circuit you are using with your generator inlet and interlock). This is to prevent the possibility of overloading the neutral
NOTE 2: i attached photos. don't pay attention to the fact there are (2) inlets. it's b/c where i installed these, it's a multi residence with 2 service panels
NOTE 3: since i had the panels open, i threw on whole house surge protectors. bought them from a slickdeal back in 2012 i think
NOTE 4: you can fit (2) of these on a harbor freight large dolly, using scrap deck boards across.
NOTE 5: it's good practice to install run meters on these. installation simple the meter itself is only $5-6 on ebay or amazon. the run meter wire is what you see on the last pic of the 2 red generators, coming out from the front vent
NOTE 6: Another option to run a regular extension cord directly from the inlet to a single generator, is to use one of these adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...UTF8&
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1. Use synthetic oil. These things run hot and are largely unregulated, and there is blow-by. This may cost an extra $1.
2. Use ONLY ethanol free fuel. Regular 10% ish ethanol fuel will draw water in and eventually kill your carb and in general weaken plastic components. In general any small engines do yourself a favor and use ethanol-free fuel.
3. While sta-bil won't do much for this Seafoam will because it was built for carb/high moisture environments and has a high kerosene component which will keep your carb system relatively clean. You can also put some in the oil because these are "loose" systems and there will be a fair bit of fuel/water than makes it into the oil.
As to hard start, these are not the easiest to start but if you regularly start it and do the above you should be ahead of the curve. These are not expensive changes....
Also I run two refigerators (one regular, one ice) , the furnace, and two sumps, and my networking equipment on this just fine. I have a second if I need to do cooling in the summer, but have never used it.
The refrigerators have a surge also, but they run at 100 and 60 Watts unless the freezer goes into a defrost cycle then it kicks up to 200 watts. The furnace (90-300W). I have highly sensitive energy monitors (CT) on these so I have the startup/run Wattage and Wh graphs for these to ensure I am not overtasking the generator. It will even run on eco if you are light on fuel but it definitely stresses it.
Also I run two refigerators (one regular, one ice) , the furnace, and two sumps, and my networking equipment on this just fine. I have a second if I need to do cooling in the summer, but have never used it.
The refrigerators have a surge also, but they run at 100 and 60 Watts unless the freezer goes into a defrost cycle then it kicks up to 200 watts. The furnace (90-300W). I have highly sensitive energy monitors (CT) on these so I have the startup/run Wattage and Wh graphs for these to ensure I am not overtasking the generator. It will even run on eco if you are light on fuel but it definitely stresses it.