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One main reason MTB/gravel riders upgrade to 1x (one by) drivetrain is to simplify the derailleur adjustments. This bike can be upgraded to 1x later, but would require upgrading the rear hub/wheel. There's nothing wrong with 3x drivetrain on this bike. In my opinion, 1x is more of a quality-of-life upgrade, others might tell you 1x also saves weight.
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I waited and lost out on the first round at $127+taxes. This time I did and was able to order one at $190. Throughout this time I have done my research and most bikes that are not even good or great are going for the same or more at least and USED…
If you are handy and can find a fault as you go this would be like a nice bike which you add stuff on as it becomes more obvious it needs upgrading. All of this coming from a Bianchi C2C rider with a lot of expectations and a bit of hard earned experience as a road cyclist.
Ah ok I missed the part where you disconnected the brake hose for re-routing. Probably could have done the same re-routing by removing the grip and brake lever as a whole without disconnecting the hose. If you lost some fluid, most likely air got inside. If your lever now feels spongy when you pull it, that's another tell-tale sign of air. Air compresses but fluid does not, thus the spongy feeling when you pull the lever with air in the system, basically robbing your pulling effort into compressing air rather than the brake pads against the rotor. Properly bled brake lever should feel firm and positive, almost like an on/off switch when you pull the lever. If your lever feels firm and positive but braking is still poor, then look for contaminated brake pads and rotors, as well as bedding them in just like the article says in the other post above me.
Otherwise there's really not much adjustment nor maintenance needed on hydraulic brake systems. Many levers let's you adjust the reach with a small allen screw. My brake levers are setup within easy reach and pull by one index finger on both sides. Here's a great video on your whole cockpit setup by a great guy (Doddy). The brake lever setup starts around 6:10 mark but the rest of video has great info: https://youtu.be/-6hRIEICiGg. Keep in mind folks over the pond have their brake levers opposite from us -- right lever front brake, left lever rear brake. Ours is right rear, left front. Doddy calls that out in most of his videos concerning brakes. But otherwise, rest of the bike setup are the same on either side of the pond.
Also, try to avoid disconnecting the hydraulic hoses as much as possible. There are olives near the ends of the hoses. Each time you loosen and tighten the ends, that olive gets crushed a little to help make seals. Do that too many times and it won't make a good seal and air gets inside. The recommendation is to replace the barb and olive when you service the brakes, which means cutting the brake hose shorter each time since you really can't remove the barb once inserted into the hose.
Thanks for the replyl! i will check out the video and looks like i may need to bleed the brakes or add fluid. Is there anything beside brake fluid that i need to purchase, like some kind of brake bleed kit? got any recommendations?
based on a few videos, it seems i only need the bucket thing and the plunger and i can add fluid at the top near the lever, so i ordered the cheapest, best rated brake fluid kit that had those 2 things and some liquid and it should be here tomorrow.
Last edited by roymunson July 9, 2022 at 08:33 AM.
I missed one of the plastic pieces to remove and wasted 15 minutes.
Now I can't get one of the brake pedals to screw in at all... Not sure what to do now.
This isn't car, it doesn't have brake pedals. Watch some youtube assembly videos first if you don't know anything about bikes.
If you're just talking about the PEDAL itself (that thing attached to the crank arm and propelled by your feet), the LEFT one is reverse threaded.
Thanks for the replyl! i will check out the video and looks like i may need to bleed the brakes or add fluid. Is there anything beside brake fluid that i need to purchase, like some kind of brake bleed kit? got any recommendations?
based on a few videos, it seems i only need the bucket thing and the plunger and i can add fluid at the top near the lever, so i ordered the cheapest, best rated brake fluid kit that had those 2 things and some liquid and it should be here tomorrow.
Sorry just got back from a 2-hour trail ride with my friend. Exhausted! I bought a general kit that fits most brand hydraulic brakes. I have multiple bikes all with different brand brakes and different size threads. This one looks like the one I bought if not identical: https://www.amazon.com/CYCOBYCO-M...07845XW4X/ . The video you linked with that reservoir is mostly used for Shimano hydraulic brakes. I'm not sure about Tektro as I never owned Tektro hydraulics, but willing to bet there is a YT video specifically on how to bleed Tektro brakes. Try one of these: https://www.youtube.com/results?s...m275+bleed
EDIT: And this is the mineral oil I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E4MH84/ . Would probably last you a lifetime for 1 bike. Maybe get a smaller bottle for now. If you buy the one I linked, currently 1 of the sellers has it for $26, but need to wait for delivery.
Last edited by chung_chang July 9, 2022 at 10:11 AM.
Sorry, I'm stuck at assembly- there isn't enough space to get the rotor into place- there looks to be brake pads -the green tabs? They don't open enough to get it in. Any help? Thanks!
Sorry, I'm stuck at assembly- there isn't enough space to get the rotor into place- there looks to be brake pads -the green tabs? They don't open enough to get it in. Any help? Thanks!
There is a plastic tab in between the brake pads that you remove before mounting the wheel. Just pull it straight out. If you already removed the plastic tab and the actual brake pads are clamped together, chances are you touched the brake lever without the wheel in place. Then you'll need to use a flat head screw driver to carefully pry the brake pad apart, being very careful not to damage the pads.
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https://www.evanscycles
Bar [amazon.com]
Grips [amazon.com]
Pedals [amazon.com]
Be sure to watch YT for installations. Common installation mistakes for above items include over-tightening and tightening wrong direction.
​How to Adjust a Front Derailleur [youtu.be]
How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur [youtu.be]
One main reason MTB/gravel riders upgrade to 1x (one by) drivetrain is to simplify the derailleur adjustments. This bike can be upgraded to 1x later, but would require upgrading the rear hub/wheel. There's nothing wrong with 3x drivetrain on this bike. In my opinion, 1x is more of a quality-of-life upgrade, others might tell you 1x also saves weight.
627 Comments
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If you are handy and can find a fault as you go this would be like a nice bike which you add stuff on as it becomes more obvious it needs upgrading. All of this coming from a Bianchi C2C rider with a lot of expectations and a bit of hard earned experience as a road cyclist.
No updates for me either
Otherwise there's really not much adjustment nor maintenance needed on hydraulic brake systems. Many levers let's you adjust the reach with a small allen screw. My brake levers are setup within easy reach and pull by one index finger on both sides. Here's a great video on your whole cockpit setup by a great guy (Doddy). The brake lever setup starts around 6:10 mark but the rest of video has great info: https://youtu.be/-6hRIEICiGg. Keep in mind folks over the pond have their brake levers opposite from us -- right lever front brake, left lever rear brake. Ours is right rear, left front. Doddy calls that out in most of his videos concerning brakes. But otherwise, rest of the bike setup are the same on either side of the pond.
Also, try to avoid disconnecting the hydraulic hoses as much as possible. There are olives near the ends of the hoses. Each time you loosen and tighten the ends, that olive gets crushed a little to help make seals. Do that too many times and it won't make a good seal and air gets inside. The recommendation is to replace the barb and olive when you service the brakes, which means cutting the brake hose shorter each time since you really can't remove the barb once inserted into the hose.
based on a few videos, it seems i only need the bucket thing and the plunger and i can add fluid at the top near the lever, so i ordered the cheapest, best rated brake fluid kit that had those 2 things and some liquid and it should be here tomorrow.
I missed one of the plastic pieces to remove and wasted 15 minutes.
Now I can't get one of the brake pedals to screw in at all... Not sure what to do now.
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I missed one of the plastic pieces to remove and wasted 15 minutes.
Now I can't get one of the brake pedals to screw in at all... Not sure what to do now.
If you're just talking about the PEDAL itself (that thing attached to the crank arm and propelled by your feet), the LEFT one is reverse threaded.
I missed one of the plastic pieces to remove and wasted 15 minutes.
Now I can't get one of the brake pedals to screw in at all... Not sure what to do now.
based on a few videos, it seems i only need the bucket thing and the plunger and i can add fluid at the top near the lever, so i ordered the cheapest, best rated brake fluid kit that had those 2 things and some liquid and it should be here tomorrow.
EDIT: And this is the mineral oil I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E4MH84/ . Would probably last you a lifetime for 1 bike. Maybe get a smaller bottle for now. If you buy the one I linked, currently 1 of the sellers has it for $26, but need to wait for delivery.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...UTF8&
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