18" and 20" OOS. Only 16" showing available as of 9:48am Pacific.
Assembly video: until someone provides an assembly video on this exact bike, this is the closest I could find on a similar bike: https://youtu.be/8Ez3a6aoL8c
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expiredAlexG30 posted Jun 30, 2022 2:26 PM
Framed Ultimate Terrain Mountain Bike (Black)
$125
$600
79% off
+ Free Shippingat Camping World
Top Comments
https://www.evanscycles
Bar [amazon.com]
Grips [amazon.com]
Pedals [amazon.com]
Be sure to watch YT for installations. Common installation mistakes for above items include over-tightening and tightening wrong direction.
How to Adjust a Front Derailleur [youtu.be]
How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur [youtu.be]
One main reason MTB/gravel riders upgrade to 1x (one by) drivetrain is to simplify the derailleur adjustments. This bike can be upgraded to 1x later, but would require upgrading the rear hub/wheel. There's nothing wrong with 3x drivetrain on this bike. In my opinion, 1x is more of a quality-of-life upgrade, others might tell you 1x also saves weight.
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627 Comments
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I've tried three times now to swap out my 20" to a 18" frame when I see them in stock on my phone and they wont do it and then tell me there is no stock any place.
NVM it now says in stock on the computer. I'm going to try and chat again with someone.
I am certainly going to get a stem riser or maybe gooseneck. Looking into options after i go on a ride and take a few pics of the bike. I need to raise it up like 4 inches if possible. Straight handlebars are so painful for me, i dont know how anyone can use them, also these are so wide. My mustache handlebars that are swept back will help me a lot with hand pain. Seat is very painful, which i expected. i believe the seatpost is 31.6mm so i bought a shim adapter so i can use my suntour suspension seatpost that has a 27.2mm width.
So excited about this, thanks again OP!
I am certainly going to get a stem riser or maybe gooseneck. Looking into options after i go on a ride and take a few pics of the bike. I need to raise it up like 4 inches if possible. Straight handlebars are so painful for me, i dont know how anyone can use them, also these are so wide. My mustache handlebars that are swept back will help me a lot with hand pain. Seat is very painful, which i expected. i believe the seatpost is 31.6mm so i bought a shim adapter so i can use my suntour suspension seatpost that has a 27.2mm width.
So excited about this, thanks again OP!
Good info!
I am certainly going to get a stem riser or maybe gooseneck. Looking into options after i go on a ride and take a few pics of the bike. I need to raise it up like 4 inches if possible. Straight handlebars are so painful for me, i dont know how anyone can use them, also these are so wide. My mustache handlebars that are swept back will help me a lot with hand pain. Seat is very painful, which i expected. i believe the seatpost is 31.6mm so i bought a shim adapter so i can use my suntour suspension seatpost that has a 27.2mm width.
So excited about this, thanks again OP!
Agree with that. The stem being longer and the flat handlebars - it isn't very comfortable riding. Just feels like you are leaning over far too much, with a lot of weight into your arms.
My front wheel isn't true'd and the rotor has a bit of a wobble, but I was able to adjust the brakes so they don't rub. I do find the brakes to fairly weak, but I am 240lbs.
For the 20" bike, the seat tube length seems to be right around 20.5-21" and the standover height is right around 31-32"
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Yeah i hated the hunched over posture, i will be converting them to a more upright riding position for sure. I think for myself about 4" riser and an adjustable stem, like how i have on my main commuting bike, will make it much more comfortable.
The bike was way more comfortable but not perfect for my huge 36" inseam sadly, but when i raise up the bars i think that will give me the extra room needed to be able to peddle and turn at the same time. My legs are so long that my knees bump into the handlebars when i make tight turns.
lastly, there was a bit of noise in the chains while riding, i adjusted the rear derailer a little and added chain lube and the noise went away. Also the weight is about 35ish lbs. It's pretty light, i was about to lift it over the bigger log no problem. I am used to my electric bikes weighing around 50 to 60lbs probably.
Check out these beautiful photos i got of the bike though!!!!!!
Yeah i hated the hunched over posture, i will be converting them to a more upright riding position for sure. I think for myself about 4" riser and an adjustable stem, like how i have on my main commuting bike, will make it much more comfortable.
The bike was way more comfortable but not perfect for my huge 36" inseam sadly, but when i raise up the bars i think that will give me the extra room needed to be able to peddle and turn at the same time. My legs are so long that my knees bump into the handlebars when i make tight turns.
lastly, there was a bit of noise in the chains while riding, i adjusted the rear derailer a little and added chain lube and the noise went away. Also the weight is about 35ish lbs. It's pretty light, i was about to lift it over the bigger log no problem. I am used to my electric bikes weighing around 50 to 60lbs probably.
Check out these beautiful photos i got of the bike though!!!!!!
On the suspension fork, once you feel up to it, upgrade it to an air fork. Even cheap entry level ~$200 air forks would give you more adjustments to dial it in for even more comfort and better performance in the rough, and shave off another 2 - 3 lbs. I got lucky and scored a used Manitou Markhor air fork off Amazon for $150. It came in a beat up box but the fork was new, steerer tube wasn't even cut so definitely not used. RockShox Judy Silver TK is another popular entry air fork that can be had for $150 on a sale. Then catch a sale on wider tires which lets you run lower psi to provide even more comfort. From a YT video I watched on this exact bike, looks like 2.4" wide tires would fit no problem. Kenda just had a couple of big tire clearance sales recently posted on here for as low as $10 per tire. I picked up some better tires from that sale for really dirt cheap. If you're in no hurry, just wait for these sales and slowly upgrade your bike. If you do it right, the bike would gradually ride better and better as you upgrade.
I have to bike to work on my electric bike and i can't look too much into this now, but i think it has to do with the hydraulic fluid. I believe this bike is amazing, but we have to do our part to make it amazing. The factory did a really bad job of preparing the bikes, especially with no tools or instructions, but that doesn't mean it's a bad bike. These hydraulic brakes should work amazingly if we set them up correctly. My guess is we need to add more hydraulic fluid or adjust them somehow. Later today while im at work or back home i will try to learn about hydraulic brakes because they are so different than even mechanical disc brakes.
This might be helpful for us?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U...HEG
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Otherwise there's really not much adjustment nor maintenance needed on hydraulic brake systems. Many levers let's you adjust the reach with a small allen screw. My brake levers are setup within easy reach and pull by one index finger on both sides. Here's a great video on your whole cockpit setup by a great guy (Doddy). The brake lever setup starts around 6:10 mark but the rest of video has great info: https://youtu.be/-6hRIEICiGg. Keep in mind folks over the pond have their brake levers opposite from us -- right lever front brake, left lever rear brake. Ours is right rear, left front. Doddy calls that out in most of his videos concerning brakes. But otherwise, rest of the bike setup are the same on either side of the pond.
Also, try to avoid disconnecting the hydraulic hoses as much as possible. There are olives near the ends of the hoses. Each time you loosen and tighten the ends, that olive gets crushed a little to help make seals. Do that too many times and it won't make a good seal and air gets inside. The recommendation is to replace the barb and olive when you service the brakes, which means cutting the brake hose shorter each time since you really can't remove the barb once inserted into the hose.
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