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gaamn114 | Staff 19.8K Views
Jan 10, 2023 2:50 AM

Champion Power Equipment 4250W Open Frame Gas Inverter Generator

$420

$994

57% off
+ Free Shippingat Amazon
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Deal Details
Amazon has Champion Power Equipment 4250W Open Frame Gas Inverter Generator (200954) on sale for $419.82. Shipping is free.

Thanks to Deal Hunter gaamn114 for finding this deal.

Note, product must be sold/shipped by Amazon

Features (details):
  • 224cc Champion engine produces 4250 starting watts and 3500 running watts, and runs for 22 hours at 25% load when the 4-gallon fuel tank is full
  • With a 0.6-quart oil capacity (included 10W-30) and a low oil shut-off sensor, this inverter operates at 64 dBA from 23 feet
  • The covered outlets in this RV Ready inverter include a 120V 30A RV (TT-30R), two 120V 20A household outlets (5-20R) plus two handy 2.1A USB ports you can use to power your phone, laptop, or similar device

Editor's Notes

Written by Discombobulated | Staff
  • About this deal:
    • This price is $576.93 lower (58% savings) than the list price of $994 and close to this previous Frontpage Deal from December.
  • About this product:
    • Rating of 4.6 from over 4,300 Amazon customer reviews.
  • About this store:
  • Please read the Forum Thread for more deal discussion.

Original Post

Written by gaamn114 | Staff
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Amazon has Champion Power Equipment 4250W Open Frame Gas Inverter Generator (200954) on sale for $419.82. Shipping is free.

Thanks to Deal Hunter gaamn114 for finding this deal.

Note, product must be sold/shipped by Amazon

Features (details):
  • 224cc Champion engine produces 4250 starting watts and 3500 running watts, and runs for 22 hours at 25% load when the 4-gallon fuel tank is full
  • With a 0.6-quart oil capacity (included 10W-30) and a low oil shut-off sensor, this inverter operates at 64 dBA from 23 feet
  • The covered outlets in this RV Ready inverter include a 120V 30A RV (TT-30R), two 120V 20A household outlets (5-20R) plus two handy 2.1A USB ports you can use to power your phone, laptop, or similar device

Editor's Notes

Written by Discombobulated | Staff
  • About this deal:
    • This price is $576.93 lower (58% savings) than the list price of $994 and close to this previous Frontpage Deal from December.
  • About this product:
    • Rating of 4.6 from over 4,300 Amazon customer reviews.
  • About this store:
  • Please read the Forum Thread for more deal discussion.

Original Post

Written by gaamn114 | Staff

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53 Comments

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Jan 11, 2023 1:15 PM
100 Comments
Joined Dec 2011
amajr316Jan 11, 2023 1:15 PM
100 Comments
Quote from Dr. J View quoted comment :
The interlock kit is the most cost effective way, but I don't know if it's legit to tie both hots in the panel (240V) to a 120V generator. I mean, yeah you could do it, make it happen, and it should work, but all it takes is one 240V breaker to be on and you might fry something.

That's a very good point - I was more speaking in generalities related to wiring a generator to the house. Personally, I wouldn't simply backfeed as some people do... it is far too dangerous.

But I have mine currently wired into my main panel, and previously I used a transfer switch. The transfer switch was the nicest, cleanest... but you have to identify the 6, 8 , or 10 circuits you are going to provide power to, and you can't power up anything else, without re-wiring. The nice thing about wiring it into your main panel is that you can choose, on the fly, which circuits you are going to power, and which you are going to turn off.
Jan 11, 2023 2:13 PM
7.5K Comments
Joined Aug 2007
lotsalotsadealsJan 11, 2023 2:13 PM
7.5K Comments
Quote from Dr. J View quoted comment :
The interlock is the best value method - the interlock kits are like $70ish, you need to get a 240V breaker that's sized appropriately, plus probably some sort of outdoor rated (240V) plug and of course wiring and such.

You can always just back feed through a dryer plug, but that's technically not legit. Granted, you're doing the *exact* same thing using the interlock kit, just the interlock kit forces you to turn off the mains in order to turn on the generator breaker. The kit is more of an idiot-proofing than anything else.

The next level is a transfer switch and subpanel - super $$ to install.
Quote from amajr316 View quoted comment :
That's a very good point - I was more speaking in generalities related to wiring a generator to the house. Personally, I wouldn't simply backfeed as some people do... it is far too dangerous.

But I have mine currently wired into my main panel, and previously I used a transfer switch. The transfer switch was the nicest, cleanest... but you have to identify the 6, 8 , or 10 circuits you are going to provide power to, and you can't power up anything else, without re-wiring. The nice thing about wiring it into your main panel is that you can choose, on the fly, which circuits you are going to power, and which you are going to turn off.

This looks like a great option.
http://www.generlink.com/ez-connect.html

Haven't checked if its compatible(approved by local utilities)

Another good option
http://www.generlink.com/generlink.html
Some utilities will NOT allow this(including FPL in Florida)
Last edited by lotsalotsadeals January 11, 2023 at 06:33 AM.
Jan 11, 2023 2:18 PM
39.5K Comments
Joined Nov 2005
Dr. JJan 11, 2023 2:18 PM
39.5K Comments
Quote from lotsalotsadeals View quoted comment :
This looks like a great option.
http://www.generlink.com/ez-connect.html

Haven't checked if its compatible(approved by local utilities)
I've looked at that as well; it's pricey, and not universally installable (depends on your utility), but seems like a good "Bolt on" option.

For reference, the 30A version is over $700 [homedepot.com], which is probably more than a generator of that size will cost. HD doesn't sell the 40A version, which is around $1300 [cpesupply.com]. Personally I'd tend more toward 50A; that's only ~ 12kW generator which I would consider bare minimum in portables to be a "whole home" backup solution.
Jan 11, 2023 2:20 PM
564 Comments
Joined May 2008
mstang1988Jan 11, 2023 2:20 PM
564 Comments
Quote from Mr.Remarkable View quoted comment :
Not an inverter though.
It really depends on your setup. I did the work myself but mine was simple. Added a breaker, interlock kit, and inlet. An electrician would probably have charged 200-400 for the labor in the project (it took me about 2 hours in total) and then around 150 in parts. A more complex system would cost a lot more or if you have an older electrical panel that cannot easily be connected (and would require a new main junction box).
Jan 11, 2023 2:25 PM
39.5K Comments
Joined Nov 2005
Dr. JJan 11, 2023 2:25 PM
39.5K Comments
Quote from mstang1988 View quoted comment :
It really depends on your setup. I did the work myself but mine was simple. Added a breaker, interlock kit, and inlet. An electrician would probably have charged 200-400 for the labor in the project (it took me about 2 hours in total) and then around 150 in parts. A more complex system would cost a lot more or if you have an older electrical panel that cannot easily be connected (and would require a new main junction box).

A lot of this depends on how accessible the panel is - in my last house it was in the garage so SUPER accessible. This matters for materials and labor, especially if you're hiring someone - 8ga is about $1/ft, and you'll need 4 of those, so $4/ft. Heck of a difference in 20 ft vs. 150ft.. That said, even if you're not comfortable doing the actual tie-in, you can save a lot of money by doing the grunt work yourself - running conduit/wires, mounting plug boxes etc. Hate to pay someone hundreds $+ per hour just to drill holes, run tubing and pull wires. That's like paying a doctor to take vitals when a nurse can do it just as good a job.
Jan 11, 2023 2:25 PM
564 Comments
Joined May 2008
mstang1988Jan 11, 2023 2:25 PM
564 Comments
Quote from amajr316 View quoted comment :
That's a very good point - I was more speaking in generalities related to wiring a generator to the house. Personally, I wouldn't simply backfeed as some people do... it is far too dangerous.

But I have mine currently wired into my main panel, and previously I used a transfer switch. The transfer switch was the nicest, cleanest... but you have to identify the 6, 8 , or 10 circuits you are going to provide power to, and you can't power up anything else, without re-wiring. The nice thing about wiring it into your main panel is that you can choose, on the fly, which circuits you are going to power, and which you are going to turn off.
To answer the 120v panel, so there are problems with doing so, specifically there is a special case where there is a shared neutral. The problem in this setup they are treating two 120v branch circuits as a single 240v circuit. This is fine as the amperage on the common (neutral) is at most the full amperage of one of the 120v circuits because how being out of phase works. Most of the time with load the amperage will actually be cancelled on the neutral. When powering L1 and L2 from the same 120v leg you have the possibility of doubling the amperage on a shared neutral so a 15amp set of circuits could put 30 amps of sustained load on the neutral. Worst yet most neutrals are not breakered so you would never detect this.

Now, it's not the case that all homes are wired this way but unless you know it's not worth the risk.

You also have to power off any 240v circuits if you do this.
Jan 11, 2023 2:27 PM
564 Comments
Joined May 2008
mstang1988Jan 11, 2023 2:27 PM
564 Comments
Quote from Dr. J View quoted comment :
A lot of this depends on how accessible the panel is - in my last house it was in the garage so SUPER accessible. This matters for materials and labor, especially if you're hiring someone. That said, even if you're not comfortable doing the actual tie-in, you can save a lot of money by doing the grunt work yourself - running conduit/wires, mounting plug boxes etc. Hate to pay someone hundreds $+ per hour just to drill holes, run tubing and pull wires. That's like paying a doctor to take vitals when a nurse can do it just as good a job.
Yup, if you can find a friendly electrician that will let you do it. And yes, it varies greatly of how difficult it is.

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Jan 11, 2023 4:37 PM
332 Comments
Joined Sep 2018
springchickenJan 11, 2023 4:37 PM
332 Comments
Quote from mstang1988 View quoted comment :
To answer the 120v panel, so there are problems with doing so, specifically there is a special case where there is a shared neutral. The problem in this setup they are treating two 120v branch circuits as a single 240v circuit. This is fine as the amperage on the common (neutral) is at most the full amperage of one of the 120v circuits because how being out of phase works. Most of the time with load the amperage will actually be cancelled on the neutral. When powering L1 and L2 from the same 120v leg you have the possibility of doubling the amperage on a shared neutral so a 15amp set of circuits could put 30 amps of sustained load on the neutral. Worst yet most neutrals are not breakered so you would never detect this.

Now, it's not the case that all homes are wired this way but unless you know it's not worth the risk.

You also have to power off any 240v circuits if you do this.
Agreed that you need to consider special case wiring with shared neutral (not typical). If you have a working knowledge of electrical wiring and can take your main panel cover off, check each circuit and look out for shared neutral (2 hots off the SAME leg but one neutral back). This is different from 240V circuits which have 2 hots different legs and one neutral back.

Never bridge the legs in your panel.

Use an interlock vs backfeeding through a dryer/stove or garage plug , it's safer and code compliant, also error proof. I think an interlock is cheaper and easier to wire in than a transfer switch, having done both, as long as you have space in your main panel for 2 adjacent breakers. You can relocate breakers in your main panel easily to free up the specific spots you need for the interlock kit, these spots are usually closest to your main breaker.

If you don't have any shared neutrals and can identify and turn off your 240V breakers, you can use a 120V generator to backup your house. Set up your house with an L14-30P power inlet box on the outside to work with 240V generators, get an L14-30 generator cord that works with 240V generators. Get an adapter to use only with a 120V generator that will hot bridge both legs going into the generator cord.

This way, your home is wired correctly. You can use a 240V generator normally, or use a 120V generator with the adapter. Generators should be floating neutral when wired into the panel.

A couple of hot bridge adapters depending on what plug you have on your generator or parallel kit.

5-20 to L14-30 https://a.co/d/hbUhWVc

L5-30 to L14-30 https://a.co/d/alypT5Z

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