Ironton Heavy-Duty 130W Hot Knife w/ Adjustable Blade
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$13.50
$29.99
+ Free Shipping
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Northern Tool & Equipment has Ironton Heavy-Duty 130W Hot Knife w/ Adjustable Blade on sale for $13.49. Shipping is free or choose store pickup where stock permits.
Thanks to Deal Hunter Rokket for finding this deal.
Product Description:
The Ironton Heavy-Duty Hot Knife quickly heats to 975°F to make fast, clean cuts in foam and plastic materials. The hot knife comes with a depth adjustment to make repeat cuts or long cuts at a precise depth.
130 Watt, 110V hot knife
Has 3 3/7" to 5 1/2" adjustable blade
Adjustable temperature up to 975°F
Ideal for cutting foam, plastic, webbing, synthetic fabrics, and nylon rope
Northern Tool via eBay[ebay.com] also has the Ironton Heavy-Duty Hot Knife 110V, Adjustable Blade on sale for $13.49. Shipping is free. > OOS
Product Description:
The Ironton Heavy-Duty Hot Knife quickly heats to 975°F to make fast, clean cuts in foam and plastic materials. The hot knife comes with a depth adjustment to make repeat cuts or long cuts at a precise depth.
130 Watt, 110V hot knife
Has 3 3/7" to 5 1/2" adjustable blade
Adjustable temperature up to 975°F
Ideal for cutting foam, plastic, webbing, synthetic fabrics, and nylon rope
Score with a putty knife and break it. You don't need to slice it through.
Tried that with a few different knifes, it never scores cleanly for more than a few feet, not sure if i am doing something wrong or what but instead of scoring it cleanly, it skips across it and makes a buncha divot holes.
Have read online to try the smallest cheapest disposable razor knife, so I am going to try that next. Have previously used much more heavy duty blades.
Will it Work for 2" thick XPS insulation board? Stuff is a pita to cut with a regular sharp blade. hard to make clean cuts.
If you want quick straight cuts, your old chef's knife works awesome for that. Keep a cheap electric sharpener in the garage to freshen the edge often. I also have a whetstone with diamond surfaces for a finishing touch.
My older 10 inch chef's knife works great on all sorts of insulation board, including 2 inch XPS, and fiberglass batts too.
If I need curved cuts, I'm either getting out a snap blade razor knife, setting up the nichrome hot wire bow, or making a huge mess with a rasp.
Tried that with a few different knifes, it never scores cleanly for more than a few feet, not sure if i am doing something wrong or what but instead of scoring it cleanly, it skips across it and makes a buncha divot holes.
Have read online to try the smallest cheapest disposable razor knife, so I am going to try that next. Have previously used much more heavy duty blades.
These materials are tough on blades so you may have to dispose of them or rehone them frequently. As far as technique, keep your blade extended long and pulled from a low angle so that it gives a very shallow cut. This gives the most mechanical advantage to the blade as it wedges through, cutting less material with more blade with each pass, which means less pressure at any specific point on the cutting edge. This helps the blade keep its edge longer and deters material from bunching up in front of the blade and binding.
'Unfocused' has the right idea with an old 10" chef's knife. I also have one that I use for insulation and sharpen coarsely every few passes.
'BeautifulVest1304' may be on to something with the putty knife. In a pinch, I've been able to score foam with friction alone, by running it along the edge of a table or outside corner on a wall. Not practical for large pieces, but it brings us back to the concept of heat.
I'm thinking of getting this for cutting slabs of beeswax into smaller pieces. Any thoughts on this from those familiar with this tool?
Unwaxed, unflavored dental floss is a good choice to cut honey comb and beeswax in general. By hand or in a coping saw. Or use a coping saw with the teeth ground down. Or string your coping saw or hacksaw saw with a steel guitar string. These all work nicely.
A narrow bladed pocket knife, like a French Laguiole, works well. Maybe a cheese knife?
If you're uncapping, just buy a serrated uncapping knife, either heated or unheated.
My brother is a beekeeper. He doesn't use heated knives for anything. He says he just doesn't need them.
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What kind of wild non-conformist measures in 7ths of an inch? smh
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Have read online to try the smallest cheapest disposable razor knife, so I am going to try that next. Have previously used much more heavy duty blades.
Also, how fast can this cut? I need to know in furlongs per fortnight.
'bout tree fiddy
My older 10 inch chef's knife works great on all sorts of insulation board, including 2 inch XPS, and fiberglass batts too.
If I need curved cuts, I'm either getting out a snap blade razor knife, setting up the nichrome hot wire bow, or making a huge mess with a rasp.
Have read online to try the smallest cheapest disposable razor knife, so I am going to try that next. Have previously used much more heavy duty blades.
'Unfocused' has the right idea with an old 10" chef's knife. I also have one that I use for insulation and sharpen coarsely every few passes.
'BeautifulVest1304' may be on to something with the putty knife. In a pinch, I've been able to score foam with friction alone, by running it along the edge of a table or outside corner on a wall. Not practical for large pieces, but it brings us back to the concept of heat.
A narrow bladed pocket knife, like a French Laguiole, works well. Maybe a cheese knife?
If you're uncapping, just buy a serrated uncapping knife, either heated or unheated.
My brother is a beekeeper. He doesn't use heated knives for anything. He says he just doesn't need them.
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These cut through foam like 'butta' with that 5"+ blade?
Dabs 😂